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Posted

Hi all,

 

I have a 2011 S1000RR and I just installed the "alpha Racing Fast Throttle Kit 63°". The throttle travel feels much shorter however it is also harder to twist. Just completed a 2-day track weekend and my fingers were cramping every session from how much work it takes to twist the throttle.

 

There are 2 throttle cables. The return has an adjustment, but the twist doesn't. Is there any way to reduce the tension on the throttle cable? Maybe without having to adjust the throttle bodies?

 

Thanks.

Posted

When's the last time you lubed the cables? A fast turn throttle is going to have to move the cable more in less amount of travel so it's going to be a bit stiffer to begin with. If the cables have dried up cable lube inside the problem will be amplified. Something to consider.

Posted

Hi,

 

So the problem isn't the cables. I just removed the airbox to get to the throttle bodies. Unhooked the cables and the cables aren't the problem.

 

Manually twisting the throttle body, it's a lot stiffer than normal. I did the same to my Gixxer 1000 K3 and that's easier to turn from the throttle body and from the throttle itself. See attached pics.

 

Apparently this is a known issue for the first gen ('10 and '11) S1000RR, and was fixed/improved in 2012. And the 2015+ is miles better.

 

http://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/s1000rr-hp4-tech-performance-chat/9625-throttle-spring-tension.html

 

It didn't become a problem until I installed the alpha racing quick throttle!!!

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Posted

Hi,

 

So the problem isn't the cables. I just removed the airbox to get to the throttle bodies. Unhooked the cables and the cables aren't the problem.

 

Manually twisting the throttle body, it's a lot stiffer than normal. I did the same to my Gixxer 1000 K3 and that's easier to turn from the throttle body and from the throttle itself. See attached pics.

 

Apparently this is a known issue for the first gen ('10 and '11) S1000RR, and was fixed/improved in 2012. And the 2015+ is miles better.

 

http://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/s1000rr-hp4-tech-performance-chat/9625-throttle-spring-tension.html

 

It didn't become a problem until I installed the alpha racing quick throttle!!!

 

One other thing you could check. Bar ends. If they are too tight they could be constricting the end of the throttle tube and causing an issue. The tightness of the bolts on the housing. Too tight and they could be compressing something.

 

Bolts for brake levers, bar ends and housings everyone wants to be super tight so they don't come loose but there is a balance. When these parts are over tightened they can constrict the movement of the parts that they connect. That's why they invented thread locker. Some blue thread locker will keep the bolt from coming loose and let your parts move freely the way they were designed to in the first place.

 

Bodywork is much the same problem. You want to hold the bodywork on but you don't want to crack or break it or mar the finish in the process.

 

If you have checked the cables and how tight everything is and it's still too tight one other question. Did you lube the bar end when you put the grip back on? If you did all of these things and it's still too tight it's the throttle kit.

Posted

P.S. This is one of the main reasons I avoid working on my own bike. I'm just as guilty as everyone else is and the mechanic seems to have that "perfect touch". My parts don't fall off and they aren't bound up. :)

Posted

This is one of the main reasons I avoid working on my own bike.

I was thinking that I am curious what your garage looks like. The answer appears that it's very clean with bikes lined up like a starting grid:). But seriously, how do you get mechanics to work on a track specific bike or a highly modified bike that might not look like what the pics show in his shop manual? Is this a friend?

Posted

 

Hi,

 

So the problem isn't the cables. I just removed the airbox to get to the throttle bodies. Unhooked the cables and the cables aren't the problem.

 

Manually twisting the throttle body, it's a lot stiffer than normal. I did the same to my Gixxer 1000 K3 and that's easier to turn from the throttle body and from the throttle itself. See attached pics.

 

Apparently this is a known issue for the first gen ('10 and '11) S1000RR, and was fixed/improved in 2012. And the 2015+ is miles better.

 

http://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/s1000rr-hp4-tech-performance-chat/9625-throttle-spring-tension.html

 

It didn't become a problem until I installed the alpha racing quick throttle!!!

 

One other thing you could check. Bar ends. If they are too tight they could be constricting the end of the throttle tube and causing an issue. The tightness of the bolts on the housing. Too tight and they could be compressing something.

 

Bolts for brake levers, bar ends and housings everyone wants to be super tight so they don't come loose but there is a balance. When these parts are over tightened they can constrict the movement of the parts that they connect. That's why they invented thread locker. Some blue thread locker will keep the bolt from coming loose and let your parts move freely the way they were designed to in the first place.

 

Bodywork is much the same problem. You want to hold the bodywork on but you don't want to crack or break it or mar the finish in the process.

 

If you have checked the cables and how tight everything is and it's still too tight one other question. Did you lube the bar end when you put the grip back on? If you did all of these things and it's still too tight it's the throttle kit.

 

 

Good point. I had to shave off part of the grip because it was rubbing on the bar end. After trimming the end of the grip then tightened it up with 3 safety wires.

 

I found a fix for the problem though. It's the throttle spring that's too stiff. This is a problem with 2010 and 2011 S1000RR; it was fixed in 2012.

 

I am creating a bracket that releases the pressure on the throttle body spring. I created a prototype of the bracket and sent it to get 3D printed. See attached pics.

 

The throttle is so much easier to twist, and when released it still springs back to its closed position.

 

I am still fine tuning this bracket and will get another version of it printed tomorrow. The spring is not properly supported on the bracket so I need to add a cutout to where the two meet.

 

Once I get it right I can share the 3D object so anybody can have it printed and install it on their bike.

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Posted

Here it is if anybody needs it. I made a bracket that you can 3D print for about $10 that should solve this deathgrip problem.

 

I had success using materials with a high Glass Temperature like ABS or Colorfabb HT. Don't use anything with lower heat resistance like PLA or a material too rigid like Polycarbonate. You can grab the object file here:

 

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1733015

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