How Do You Transition From Deceleration To Acceleration While Cornerin

[Ventodue]

What we learn from CSS and Twist II is that the IDEAL scenario is to be tapering off the brakes as you approach your turn point, so that you are letting off the brake as you turn in the bike - that way you trade braking/deceleration forces for turning forces, so that the front end stays compressed throughout. However, if you brake hard, then fully release the brake BEFORE your turn point, and then turn, you can get the effect of the front compressing, then releasing (rising back up) then compressing again at turn-in, which is an unsettling feeling and can cause the rider to think he/she can't enter the turn any faster. Additionally, it makes the bike's turn-in more sluggish; a compressed front suspension will give a sharper steering response.

 

Perfecting the timing can really help smooth out the ride on turn entries.

 

Thanks for those precisions, Hotfoot. Very accurate, very useful ...

[EricG]

I get ALL of my braking done before I initiate turn-in. Some people like to trail brake, I am not one of them. I find that the Ohlins suspension settles the bike VERY quickly after I release the front brake.

 

Once braking is complete, I quick turn to my lean angle. Once I am at my lean angle, I crack the throttle on (and a lot of factors contribute to how aggressive I can be with roll on). However, the initial throttle roll on is an area where I feel some fine tuning of the bike (using PCV, Autotune) will help make the transition smoother. At lower RPMs, my bike tends to be a little "jerky" when the throttle is initially cracked open. I spoke to Will about this and he confirmed that is fairly common and can be tuned out.

 

So that's where I'm at now - installing Autotune to help smooth the transition.

 

I know I'm a newbie to all this, but I've noticed something on my K1300s that is similar to what you're talking about...

 

My bike is known to have both a 1/4 turn of slack in the throttle, and a tendency for drivetrain lash when the throttle is cracked hard. I've been trying to get throttle control going while in the lean, right after turn in, but couldn't get the roll on timing right. And when I got aggressive on it, the drivetrain lash would jerk the bike and scare the ###### out of me.

 

So, here's what I'm trying... First, I'm working on getting the slack out of the throttle when first putting my hand on it, as the default 'neutral' position when rolling off. I'm also trying to learn the roll on speed that my bike likes. I've had a couple of instances where this came together and it was an epiphany. Perhaps try this before you try and tune?

 

As for braking, should I, or shouldn't I? About 1/3 of a century ago, I formed a habit of using the throttle and shifting instead of the brakes when racing cars on Mulholland drive in the Hollywood hills. I'd get off the throttle, rev match as best I could and downshift; by then engine speed was already bleeding off enough that the downshift would set me up to drive out of the turn. Since then I really don't use brakes while driving, not even in traffic for the most part.

 

My K is very aggressive when rolling off, and I've found I barely need to use my brakes at all unless I REALLy need to stop. After seeing TotW2, I've been trying to train myself to brake, downshift and then turn in. But based on some of the posts on this thread, that sounds like a bad idea. Personally, I'd much prefer not braking, but I'm not sure now what proper technique should be!

 

Can you guys please enlighten me?

[Hansi]

 

So, here's what I'm trying... First, I'm working on getting the slack out of the throttle when first putting my hand on it, as the default 'neutral' position when rolling off. I'm also trying to learn the roll on speed that my bike likes. I've had a couple of instances where this came together and it was an epiphany. Perhaps try this before you try and tune?

 

You should be able to remove the slack using the adjusters on your throttle cables. Just make sure to check that you dont get your revs up when you turn the handlebars full left/full right and that the throttle does not get stuck at any steering angle - after you have adjusted the cables.