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Lnewqban last won the day on April 1 2019

Lnewqban had the most liked content!

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About Lnewqban

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    Cornering Master

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  1. Very long corners have a huge radius by definition. The lateral cornering forces that make you lean your bike are inversely proportional to that radius. For that reason, the necessary lean angle should be moderated and your tires should be far from the limit of traction, unless you speed is too high.
  2. Having no clutch should not be too much of a problem if the throttle hardware is smooth enough from zero power up, as well as the rider's twisting input. For a tradicional combustion engine, both the delivered power and the engine braking effect come from pneumatic compression in the cylinders, which works as a shock absorber in certain way: there is a time/magnitude lapse between control input and max power and almost none for max engine-braking (as internal pressure of gases inside the cylinders grows or gets reduced with time after throttle input). To complicate things more, there
  3. You are correct, but only if such motorcycle is neutral steering-wise. As you know, many bikes have a natural tendency to either understeer or oversteer (if the rider releases the handlebar while the bike is leaned on a curve). Those tendencies depend mainly on geometry and profile of tires. The front contact patch of an understeering bike will "feel" less lateral force when coming out of a lean/corner as it had been forced to over-steer during the curve. In the steady conditions that you have described (while keeping zero angular input on the steering), the sliding force on each conta
  4. Thanks for your answer, Roberts. If you have not done it yet, I would highly recommend you reading these old threads:
  5. Why did your coach use less time than you to complete that curve? Did you both use the same turning point? Was your entry speed comparable to his? If so, did you let your bike slowdown (before cracking the throttle open) longer than he did? What do you call hard turning?
  6. Carefully listen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47ybaUjqAt0
  7. Perhaps you and I are watching different videos, or have different interpretations, or the way he explained the concept was poor, but it seems to me that the tuner was not purposely advising exactly that "brake-open throttle-turn in" timing sequence. The way I see it, that gentleman was asking the rider, whose suspension was being adjusted, not to be shy or excessively cautious about giving some gas to the engine during the first phase of a regular curve (not to coast), but rather achieving the proper weight distribution as early as possible, not over-loading the front contact patch (whic
  8. IMHO, the tuner is basically advising against precautionary coasting on a turn (50/50 weight distribution), which delays maintenance acceleration until the way out of the turn is visible and verified as safe (street visual technique). The rear suspension and tire are needlessly unloaded for too long, which is later visible in the rubber wear texture. I see no contradiction with Keith's technique of 0.1 to 0.2 G acceleration applied as soon as possible on the turn in order to achieve 60/40 weight distribution and suspension and chassis stabilization. That is impossible to do while de
  9. As usual, the answers from Hotfoot are excellent. I would like to learn from you the reason, expected benefit or reasoning behind that 40-year old habit for street riding. According to the book, once you steer for the turn, lean the bike and crack the throttle open, nothing should change until it is time to pick up the bike, accelerate and exit that curve. "Rule Number One: Once the throttle is cracked on, it is rolled on evenly, smoothly, and constantly throughout the remainder of the turn. At the point where the correct transfer of weight is achieved by the rider (10 to 20 percent r
  10. Gianco, why do you think that pushing on external handlebar while cornering is wrong? Some bikes are naturally under-steering, yours may have that tendency for the tires that it is wearing. That means that the front tire will try to under-steer by itself when leaned. By keeping pressure on the external handle, you are compensating for that tendency and keeping everything in balance. You know exactly how much pressure to keep by feeling the bike balanced while cornering (not falling into the turn or out of it). Whenever you are "too slow for that moment" or at the ideal cornering spe
  11. You are correct, Gianco. It is about covering the course as quickly as possible, using street tires only. The riders need to go fast between cones (or pylons), braking-in and accelerating-out very hard as well; that is why they install bigger than normal rear sprockets. Around the cones the situation gets reversed and they need to go slow to rotate (change directions) as quickly as possible. They don't discuss cornering mph, but degrees of rotation per second. Because centrifugal effect depends on the square of velocity and on inverse of radius, at very low velocities the radius
  12. The´╗┐ book that you have mentioned has the answer to your original question: "What makes the bike turn the same as it was leaned more without hanging off? It is exp´╗┐lained in Chapter 3: Less lean angle requires more effective steering angle in order to keep the same radius of turn (please, see figure 3.18 of page 3-13): "Increasing lean angle tends to increase the effective steering angle." It is a simple geometrical problem, there is no need to complicate it with camber thrust, slip angles, etc., because the magnitudes of the forces of cornering and the dynamic lean angle rema
  13. Your language is good enough for us to communicate about dynamic of motorcycles, my English is not much better. According to Newton, everything that has some speed wants to move on a straight line by itself and must be forced to turn. The forces of steering (wheels pointing in different directions) and friction between tires and pavement are the only things that force a car, truck or a motorcycle to turn, not the lean of the bike. A motorcycle can be leaned and still move on a straight trajectory if both tires are kept perfectly aligned forward. We only lean the bike to cre
  14. The main advantage I see is pre-loading the rear sprocket, chain and rear suspension while the chassis is still pitching nose down due to deceleration. The rear suspension remains more or less extended during the transition, rather than returning to normal after prior getting extended again under power. The top leg of the chain is slacking while braking and the transition to power always has a shaking effect, plus some dead rotation of the sprocket (if some play exists between the rear sprocket and rubber connectors to the wheel). That transition used to be less abrupt for carburate
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