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Subisti

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About Subisti

  • Birthday 03/16/1982

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  • Have you attended a California Superbike School school?
    No

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Alliance,ohio
  • Interests
    Track riding, guns

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  1. Thanks for those links, they are very informative. I guess maybe they make my point or at least help with my question. If center of gravity is what helps lean angle than it shouldn't matter which peg is weighted ,if your center of gravity is down between the bike and ground or up level with the tank if you are putting all your weight on the outside peg is there a difference? Maybe this is more of a compound idea with all the pieces add up to lean angle and I'm thinking of it as a single component. thanks
  2. I guess I have a question about this than. When I stared going faster I noticed I was limited when I was weighting the inside peg and basically sitting on my inside foot. Another rider told me to try holding on with my outside knee in the tank and referenced how Marquez and Rossi have there inside leg dangling until the apex basically. I have changed to this and use my outside knee to hold my self and lean angle (not the leg dangle). But my question is if my only connection to the bike is weighting my outside leg and basically nothing on the inside does it really matter where my body is? Or is peg weighting more important than body position?
  3. Yes and no. I got woodcraft warmers last year and had ALOT of trouble getting the front warmer on. I've tried ovaling out the fender mount to get them to fit, but when thinking about switching to dot race or slicks , I read the gpa has a very tall profile and warmers are even harder to fit on the front.
  4. I very much like the q3. My bike came stock with Pirelli sp that's what I ran the first year they were never confidence inspiring, last year I switched to the q3 and instantly loved how planted they felt. When I made it into advanced one of the local pros was on the track with me a dashed if I've ever thought about racing and my pace would be good for novice wera. When looking into it a lot of the guys there said its would be nuts to try and race on street tires and I should move to a race dot. That's when I started reading on a lot of the race dots, it seems everyone loves the supercorsa sc's. But for how much I liked the q3 I was thinking about the gpa but I guess there is a problem with getting tire warmers in them with my bike cause the fender is so close to the tire. The supercorsa sp that came on the bike always had kind of a looseness in the back. I went to buy a new rear q3 and tj at riders discount talked me into a new set of supercorsa so' she said they are 2 seconds faster around mid Ohio than the q3 but my first track day this year is middle of May. Sorry that kind of turned into a ramble lol
  5. I'm going on to my 3rd year track riding , mostly at midohio. I have a 2014 675r and moved to intermediate last year and did a few advanced at the end of the year. I was thinking of moving to slicks or at least dot race tires from q3's. But through a lot of reading some people metioned that I'd be missing out on the learning experience of slipping and sliding tires with street tires at a slower pace. Also mentioning that slicks hide a lot of rider mistakes until they can't anymore. This all made a lot of sense to me I was curious what you all had to say? Also I've noticed fast people go through q3 or sp tires in a matter of a few track days. I have gotten 12 track days on my q3, I realize most of you have 1000's which probably burns through rears faster. Does me taking so long to go through a street tire mean I'm not pushing to the limits of tire and should stay with the q3?
  6. Wow Chris you kick ass ! I think I was trying to slide before the counter steer. That explains the excessive strength needed to do it. Unfortunately it won't be till next year before I can ride again but I will be looking for you when that does happen. Ty sir
  7. I think a major reason I get so worn out is too much arm pressure. I think instead of allowing the bike to lean over I'm kind of holding it with my arms at the lean angle I want. Which for a lap or two is ok but after that is exhausting. I was watching the css you tube vids and I guess the knee to knee was in the same video as the transition. Where in a corner you slide your butt to the top of the seat and allow th bike to follow you. It seems when I tried this it took a lot of effort to slide my butt up the seat and when I did this the bike started to lean over further. I know I have too much arm pressure in corners, and normally in transitions like the carousel I'm basically using the handle bars to pull myself back onto the bike. I know it isn't correct, but unfortunately I think it is officially a bad behavior And I'll have to fix it. I was really trying to pay attention to the turns. It feels kinda like I toss the bike with one knee to another instead of having them both touch at the same time. I've also really tried to brake with my butt off the bike and both knees into the tank like Chris mentioned in a conversation, it just seems like there is no way to downshift or get into correct body position before the turn.
  8. So I reread totw 2 and decided to try the knee to knee around my last track day. I went the first session like I normally do. Than next session tried it. It takes a ton more leg strength to do it. I also noticed when shifting my weight up for the transition the bike would dip down. Is this a normal thing or am I doing something wrong? Also any recommendations on leg exercises to get my legs up to par to attempt next year? Thanks
  9. Well....... Chris mentioned and a friend also shutting off my abs. I tried in circuit mode and the braking problem is fixed. My buddy has the same bike and doesn't have the same issue so I figured no way that was it but I was wrong. Apparently I brake harder than he does lol. Anyways thanks for all the help and tips.
  10. I was just wondering this myself.I was going to start my own post, but hopefully OP wont mind.... Ive been trying to wait my outside foot in corners. but it seems I naturally want to weight the inside peg. like squatting on my inside foot like a baseball catcher. ive noticed when my toe touches it touches the bottom of the slider not on the slider. Looking through pics I can only find one where you can see this from. I wear a 14 boot so I understand how difficult it is to maneuver around. Also it seems that the heel guards are kinda in the way when I try to get my foot in the right place. Any ideas?
  11. Huh, you know last year at the end of the year I did go down on the right side and it hyper extended the brake lever and broke it. Do you think it could have internally damaged the master cylinder? Any way to check it?
  12. Hotfoot, thanks for the tips. The bike comes factory with braided lines, and I've bleed the brakes with dot 4 multiple times last time about a week ago. The problem is the fix some blacktop at turn 7 so now my reference point is gone and I'm trying to find a new one, seems I can't find a good one ,I always apex early. Chris, many thanks for the chats we had and the tips you gave. Last two sessions yesterday Mike M bumped me to advanced to give it a try. I wasn't the slowest out there so I was happy about that, but there are a lot of very fast guys out there. I finished the season taking 2 seconds off my fastest time so all in all a great weekend!
  13. Well, long story long. I started last spring with my 2014 675r track riding, and I remember being blown away at how well and hard it stopped. 8-9 track days later they seemed like they weren't stopping as well and I contacted tj from riders discount. He said that I probably should move to a higher performance pad and recommended the vesrah rjl. I installed them bedded the, in and was amazed like they stopped even better than when new. I think I did 4-5 days after. Over the winter I installed jpr levers. And when I did my first track day this spring they just didn't seem to stop well. They stop but not well. I contacted tj he said something like I may have heat cycled them or something to the effect that they worn and need to be replaced. So i replaced them and bedded in never seemed like they were any better. Did a few more track days still same. He recommended bead blasting them. So I had my rotors bead blasted I scuffed the pads and tried again. They seem a little better but nothing like they should. So I just replaced the pads again and used emery cloth and denatured alcohol on them. Will try this weekend with new pads, original lever.
  14. Csmith, I suppose if I don't have a definitive turn in point, than there is nothing to base my braking maker on. As for my braking confidence I've bleed the brakes basically after every track day hopeing to find my problem. It seems with brembo monoblocs I should have more problem keeping the back down than worrying about stopping in time. So far even grabbing as hard as I can I can barely get the back end light. I've installed my factory lever for this weekend to see if that helps at all. I'm hoping between the new pads, scuffing of the rotors and the original long lever my problem will be solved. I guess only time will tell.
  15. I guess from what I have read in other forums the 1 days aren't worth it. I thought you basically had to do the 2 day or it was like any other track day. If the one days are worth it that definitely makes them a possibility. here are a couple pics from one of my track days. as for the homework you said its in the second book?
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