fossilfuel
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Posts posted by fossilfuel
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Bobby,
You have the benefit of some really good coaches helping you out on this forum. I hope you don't mind my two cents worth. I am not trying to coach but to give you some of my insight and my riding experience. Some of this can be good and some ###### from the back of bull but I throw it out there anyway.
One thing you might try next time is to build some heat in the front tire on your first lap. I know tire warmers are great but if it is cool you will lose that heat fast just getting on track. Try waiting until the last minute to take your warmers off. You don't have to be the first in line. Let everyone else wait and you get out after they have started on to the track. I like to use the first lap to get the tires nice and toasty. Remember that the front tire is sticking out in the wind and loses more heat than the rear. Taking it easy on the first lap is important but even though I might not be going full out, I try to brake a little later so I can brake harder to build up the heat in the front.
I took CSS at Laguna Seca last year. The first day it never got over 49F and the wind was blowing 50mph. We were on Dunlop Qualifiers and had no issues and no tire warmers...
Let us know when you start bringing those times down...You can do it!
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"The second time I did back to back days I ate it up! I was ready and on the second day I didn't have to reacclimate to being on a track, I didn't have to reacclimate to being on that particular track nor the bike or anything beyond the new drills so I was able to integrate the two days with my previous training in a big big way."
Kevin
I agree with Kevin. I did level two and three back to back and I would have to say it worked for me. The level three class just put everything together and made a huge impact on my riding.
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Hi Bobby,
What's going on in that head of yours? Your mind is messing with you! What is it that you are worried about? You don't have enough money to fix the bike if you low side? You have been to CSS, right? You have been on the forum and read many posts about different issues and had the benefit of coaches like Bullet, Adam06, Cobie and members like Kevin. Look over your bike. Is the bike 100%? The tires are good. The chain is fine. The sag is set. The brakes are working properly. So we know that the bike is ready to take you where you want to go. The only thing left is you.
Why can't you approach in the way we did your bike. What is it that CSS has taught you that is fundamentally wrong? Absolutely nothing. How much faster do you think Keith Code could ride your favorite circuit than you using your bike? It is very easy to loose focus on the fundamentals that can carry you through the turn. revisit the precepts, they are your friends.
Before I go to a track for a track day or a race I visualize the track using the fundamentals I have been taught. I try to include all the small details like reference points, the way the sun light hits the track(I guess you might need to use something else), what the curbing looks like, how the braking feels, what the quick turn looks and feels like, and even the sounds of the engine and the sliding of the rear end on exit. I can even see people standing on pit wall and corner workers. Now you can't visualise putting through the corners all uptight and afraid to put your knee down. You need to visualise that puck sliding on the pavement with your arms loose and looking through the corner
The next step might be to pick the turn on the track that is the easiest and most comfortable for you to negotiate. Before you try anything else, get that turn down. I believe as soon as you are confident that the bike is planted in that corner......your back! Good luck my friend.
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I am 55 and I race. My work out routine at the gym is five days a week. The only upper body work at the gym is on the elliptical machine where I do cross training for 45 minutes at the highest level I can stand and alternate my heart rate between 120 and 150 bpm. I use my arms to push pull on the highest resistance range and do this every other day. on alternating days I do twenty minutes on an elliptical and then work my legs...quads, abductors, glutes and hamstrings. I do three different stomach exercises every work out.
I think that my arms and chest should be able to be strong enough to make the steering inputs but it is your stomach and legs that need to be able to hold you on the bike. Energy is waisted going to large upper body muscle groups so I try to maintain lean muscle mass in the chest and arms.
Racing is not just the energy you burn on the track but the energy you burn before the race so eating the right foods before and during your track or race day is important. I eat fruit and cereal the morning of a race and then try to eat small amounts up until the race with plenty of water. The excitement and anticipation before a race can zap you of valuable energy reserves so having your bike prepared before hand is important....then you can sit back and try to conserve your energy for when you will need it the most.
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It's going to a be a fun season for sure. Oh, and for those that probably were in any doubt as to what got me..... it's red, and italian.
In spite of the best of my warnings against the Italian ladies: congrats on your new bike, may your new mistress serve you well.
Kai
I know, I know. What can I say, I'm easily swayed. Allow me to explain myself though, (I realise you're always onto a looser when you have to justify, but hey ho), and tell you I've not bought a standard one, it's got all the modifications I'd want as part of the deal, it's got the obligatory Termi's, though you only get Cans as standard, the 70MM system is extra (and it has it), race pattern rearsets, quickshifter, race and road fairings, upgraded clutch and master cylinders with flip up levers, quick action throttle, double bubble, Race seat and many others. 1500 miles, all for just a little over the price of a new 1198S, how could i say no...?
Some might even call it a bargain... LOL (though I expect the relationship with the dealership begins here).My wifes initial reaction was, dont' ever drop it, ever, please. (oh yeah love, it'll never happen, honestly).
Bullet
Congratulations....My fellow Ducatista!
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You can't go wrong whatever you decide Bullet. I think your first three are all great choices and you won't be disappointed whatever you get...We all know that it's the rider who twists the throttle that makes it sing.
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I buddy low sided it in the grass and the repair was $3000.00 The techtronic quick shifter was bent, no problem I just had to send it to NEW F'n ZEALAND for repair.
All the best things get sent here for repair...
I wish I could have delivered it myself! "All the best things get sent here for repair..." Maybe I should have my knee scoped there!
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My Ducati 999R sits in the garage. It is by far the best piece of machinery I have ever owned. A thing of beauty designed for racing with innovation and thought that you will not find on most motorcycles. From the trellis frame to the Marchesini wheels, brembo brakes and Ohlins suspension this is a fine piece of gear. The tank and seat mount are one assembly which slides front to back to change weight distribution. One can loosen four bolts and swing the tank and seat up to about a 35 degree angle to service rear cylinder. A plug change takes all of ten minutes. The bike holds about 4.5 liters of oil and has a pre-filter, a primary filter and magnetic drain plug. You don't like the trail of the front end? You can change it. There are two settings. The Brembo brakes are phenominal! The Ducati has the bleeder screw built in to the fluid reservoir. A 4mm socket can bleed the air as the fluid stays in the reservoir and at the highest point in the system. The shift lever and brake lever are independent of the rear sets. The brake lever has about 8 settings as the shift lever comes with a concentric cam so you can adjust for toe position. The instrument panel is amazing. Oil temperature, water temparature, volts rpm etc.
The sound of the twin surronds you thanks to the Termognini racing exhaust. I have had people at a track day move out of the line when I have come up behind them 165 rear wheel hp. I also get people coming by the garage wanting to here it. The dry clutch clack,clack,clack,clack!
The bad news...a 2000 mile tune up and valve adjustment $1000.00. I buddy low sided it in the grass and the repair was $3000.00 The techtronic quick shifter was bent, no problem I just had to send it to NEW F'n ZEALAND for repair. I love this bike but the Fireblade is more comfortable on the track and I am not as paranoid about wadding it up...Oh by the way Bullet did I say the "Duc" is for sale? LOL
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Well i had talked about it here before...so I thought I should just let you all know (since CSS had alot to do with me getting there). I finished my first CCS race about a month ago at Lightning at NJMP! (actually a pair of em). Was a total blast. And yes if you look at the results I DID NOT FINISH LAST (just don't look too closely at the results lol).
Kind of realized though that maybe I am just a weeeee bit out of my class!!!!...but I did accomplish my main goals.... I didn't kill myself...I didn't kill anyone else...and I finished...so Cobie...that will be your job at my lvl 4 coming up at TBOlt...get 10 secs of my laps times
lol
Great going! It was a blast wasn't it! You will get faster. I guarantee it.
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Is this bike to ride on the track or to put spot lights on in the garage?
ah, my cynical old friend.
Ride always way more important. bling's not my thing, ride experience and excitement is paramount.
B.
I rate these bikes the following
CBR BMW Ducati
Technology
07 10 08
Reliability
10 08 08
Trackability
10 09 08
Aftermarket Parts
10 08 08
Cost
10 08 07
Maintenance
10 08 07
Beauty
07 08 10
Crash cost
10 08 06
Track Comfort
10 10 08
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Is this bike to ride on the track or to put spot lights on in the garage?
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You have to commit to getting out of your comfort zone, you have to brake later and harder, find more reference points, get on the gas earlier out of the corners, Use your vision to see into the corner look through the apex and trust your machine to take you places you have never been before. Don't get so caught up in riding that you aren't PAYING ATTENTION!
Hay fossilfuel, do you write motivational speeches? That is one of the best things I have read!
Bobby
I guess all these Mel Gibson tapes have affected me?
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Hi Luke,
I read your post with great interest because in one way or another we are all trying to get to the next level. There is always another hurtle to get passed. My example takes place at Road Atlanta. The fastest track I have ever been on. I was riding in race practice when a friend came up after the session and said I needed to carry more speed into turn one. Wow! more speed I felt like I was flying through there. Turn one at Road A is a right hander that is on camber and goes up hill but it is probably a 100mph corner that compresses the suspension right at the apex and will put your chin in the tank. On the left side of the track was a red cone and about 25 meters passed that was a sign that read 100. My buddy told me I needed to stay on the gas until I got passed the red cone and before the 100 sign. I was using a new reference point.
I came out of turn twelve and headed down the front straight pinned and tried to keep my hand on the throttle but had to let off. I just couldn't tell myself to do it. The second time I willed myself to do it and had to turn in much quicker but took some time off the lap. I was getting out of my comfort zone.
The next test was the back straight, 6th gear pinned through a right hand kink at 170 mph. The first few times I rolled off. But what a dumb a.. I was. What is twenty miles an hour when you are going that fast any way, you know? But to be competitive I had to do it and I did. I used new reference points to stay on line.
SR's are important to think about but...what about a plan to achieve your goals. Why does it seem like you are charging corners and the faster guys are not? Why are they not late on exit but you are? Maybe you are still using the same reference points and trying to stay with in your comfort zone that keeps you from letting go. You have to commit to getting out of your comfort zone, you have to brake later and harder, find more reference points, get on the gas earlier out of the corners, Use your vision to see into the corner look through the apex and trust your machine to take you places you have never been before. Don't get so caught up in riding that you aren't PAYING ATTENTION!
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From my limited experience and learning some cold hard facts the hard way, as Dave Moss would say, "If it's a new to you bike, you MUST go trough the suspension completely, you have no idea what's actually going on in there!".
Even with the very cool Ohlins bits, I would tend to believe no one can say they know it's functioning properly for certain. Some things may give hints like adjusting compression and rebound and having zero effect suggests the valving is hosed. The previous owner may believe their's a .95kg set of springs in the front when they're really a 1.05kg and if the new rider ways 50lbs less, that will be a serious difference. 50lbs rider weight difference alone is ~0.075kg fork spring and ~0.75 shock spring difference as a baseline.
I just this last weekend was breaking down my forks to do the seals when to my shock discovered the springs were completely shot! I mean they were ~40mm below minimal tolerance, meaning there was absolutely NO preload on them at all or could be based on their length. So now, I'm waiting for springs.
Just trying to share what I've learned in my misadventures.
Gorecki is correct...What if you don't have the correct amount of nitrogen in the shock or not enough or any fork oil...Opening everything up and knowing what you have with fresh oil and seals is a great start... I race so I change my oil and replace the seals every season.
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I think you should do two things if everything else is exceptable. First, do what Bullet says. I would increase rebound damping in the rear. you went with less from 8 to 6 clicks. Did you ever think that you might be raising the rear to fast? I would try going to 10 to 12 clicks on the rear to keep it from raising up to fast. Then I would increase compression damping in the front about 2 to 4 clicks to slow down the rate of travel under breaking. You never mentioned what your front fork settings were?
OK, first I need to correct myself: I have 7mm travel left on the front, not 25 (I confused the numbers from by roadbike, which seems to be heavily oversprung on the front. But that's a separate topic).
Here's the hard data:
Front: 12 clicks compression / 8 clicks rebound / 10 turns of preload. There are 20 clicks of compression and rebound, and 16 turns of preload.
Rear: 10 clicks compression / 6 clicks rebound / 5 turns of preload. There are 22 clicks of compression and rebound, and 16 turns of preload.
The reasoning for reducing the rebound damping was to allow the rear to extend quicker and thereby keeping a better contact with the road. Bullet's point is that it might be that the rear shock is topping out, in which case rebound has no effect at all.
Fossil, what is the logic for increasing the rebound damping on the rear in this case?
So far my plan says: 1) check sag, 2) reduce preload on the rear (-2), 3) increase the preload (+2) and/or compression damping in the front (I'm thinking preload as 3a, compression as 3b).
Thanks,
Kai
Kai,
I was thinking of what they call the "pogo" effect. This is when you do not have enough damping for the shock to do its job. The spring is compressed while you are riding but as you apply brakes to the front, the down force on the front and shift of weight snaps the back up. If you dampen the compression on the front another 2 clicks and slow the rate of the forks compressing while damping the rate of rebound or pogo in the rear to 10 clicks, the transfer of weight to the front might be reduced....just a thought. You said you reduced rebound another two clicks and nothing happened? You are way down on the amount of rebound damping which makes me believe you don't have enough...
has the rear end felt a little bouncy or squirmy while riding over bumps or on the throttle on exit?
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Do you have your sag set correctly? Static and with you on the bike, are you getting much compliance?
Hi Bullet,
Yes, I had help to measure out and adjust the static sag last year, but didn't write down the details and frankly .... I can't remember the numbers :-|
Are you thinking too little sag on the rear?
Kai
Its definitely possible mate, yeah. I found on my Aprilia that with too much pre-load in the rear, it caused a few problems, one of which was this. As it's so easy (relatively), to check, I'd start there, and make sure you've got some good sag numbers, then, if not that, check you've not got compression wound on to much (in the rear).
Let us know, though others may well have other ideas.
Bullet
I think you should do two things if everything else is exceptable. First, do what Bullet says. I would increase rebound damping in the rear. you went with less from 8 to 6 clicks. Did you ever think that you might be raising the rear to fast? I would try going to 10 to 12 clicks on the rear to keep it from raising up to fast. Then I would increase compression damping in the front about 2 to 4 clicks to slow down the rate of travel under breaking. You never mentioned what your front fork settings were?
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TH;
If you took all four levels then you need to dig deep to recall what you learned in level III. There you learned how to lock in your OUTSIDE knee against the tank and then you drop your torso down to the inside of the turn with your inside elbow pointed as straight down as you could point it. Yes..I recollect that..the fish hook shape that your inside elbow makes gives it the name "Hook turn". I am not having trouble pushing the outside peg to dig in my outside knee into the tank just at the moment I am about to initiate a hook turn(or any turn for that matter) I remember an excercise that Andy made me do while sitting on a chair. Press the right leg into the floor to push him away from me with my left hand. I could muster more strength to push him away that way as compared to when I would try pushing him with my left hand by diggin my left foot in the ground. (all this while seated in a chair)
I understood this to be how the pivot steering also works. So while initiating a turn I pivot steer..but it is midcorner that I feel like I am squatting on the inside peg. Feels like I am getting ready to jump off a diving board. It is here in mid corner where If I attempt to put any pressure on the right peg(without letting any input go into to the bars) I feel like I am gonna fall off the bike( is it because it makes me lighter on the bike and hence just get a feeling of falling but wont actually fall off ?) I consulted many riders here...some of them even race...but as is the case with sports riding the opinions seem divided.
To do that the majority of your weight is on your outside leg as that's where you have your leverage to manuver your torso because that portion of your body stays static until you have picked up the pike on your drive out (or your transition to turning the other way).
As you described in your first post, you place a good deal of your weight on the inside such that your inside calf touches your inside thigh as you "squatted" on the inside peg. I have seen that technique used many times but I don't know how you unload that inside peg when it transitions to an outside peg without upsetting the stability of the bike. Others here will disagree with me but that's what I took from Level III.
Rain
Agree with Kevin 100% that most the "weight" is on outside peg. The fact of putting the weight on outside peg is not for adding weight on the bike though the outside peg, but as the means to apply outside knee force on the tank to anchor the bike with the help of the outside peg. This allows a relax grip at handle bar and efficient counter-steering with inner arm. Imagine pushing the handle bar with inner arm while pushing the outside foot only (with no "weight" on inner peg), which is very effective for steering input.
Pivot steering yeah...but by midcorner I am not expected to do any steering corrections at all...and it is in this phase of the corner that I try weighing the outside peg to prepare for either a chicane or a to pick the bike up...I am not having any issues with being light on the bars (unless when panicking) and I am totally confused whether its even requiered to have some weight on the outside peg when in mid corner. I am aware that I am being repetative but thats because I am constantly struggling with trying to express what my real problem is. I wish I could be more pellucid. TBH why am I bothering ? Someone somehwere told me with excess weight on the inside peg the bike will slide out from underneath you in a corner. I have had a low side which I have not been able to decipher and have begun wondering if this was the cause ? Can this even be the cause ? I am finicky when it comes to buying advices from ppl on the streets.
Lines in Bold and Italics above are my replies.
Thanks a ton guys for taking the effort to explain this as I am at my wits end. Ever since I have this problem riding a superbike good is seeming to be rocket science to me as I just cant get it right lol
I think we need to get these guys some help...LOL
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Thanks Kane.
I am not sure I understood what you said though.
If putting pressure on the right footpeg when in lean in a left turn is benefecial how the F do I effect any pressure on the outside peg ? Everytime I try doing that I feel I am gonna fall off the bike. I feel like such a noob (and am one)
I have taken all four levels but either wasnt paying attention or am just plain stupid.
I posted a few of my lean pics on one of the R1 forums out there and they said I should try going lighter on the inside peg. Ever since then (about 4 months) I have been trying to do that but all in vain.
I want to take CSS levels again so bad its not even funny. I even got the money ready for it. A bunch of 5 riders and I are awaiting the return of Gary, Jet, Adam and Andy to my country. I cant forget the lessons I had with Andy Ibbott. But untill these guys fly to my country again I am gonna have to learn by asking questions here
TH;
If you took all four levels then you need to dig deep to recall what you learned in level III. There you learned how to lock in your OUTSIDE knee against the tank and then you drop your torso down to the inside of the turn with your inside elbow pointed as straight down as you could point it. To do that the majority of your weight is on your outside leg as that's where you have your leverage to manuver your torso because that portion of your body stays static until you have picked up the pike on your drive out (or your transition to turning the other way).
As you described in your first post, you place a good deal of your weight on the inside such that your inside calf touches your inside thigh as you "squatted" on the inside peg. I have seen that technique used many times but I don't know how you unload that inside peg when it transitions to an outside peg without upsetting the stability of the bike. Others here will disagree with me but that's what I took from Level III.
Rain
As Kevin so elequently states "Others here will disagree with me". I disagree but I don't use the "locking into the tank with the knee" technique. I don't have to press ouside pegs to force my knee into the tank. I have skinny legs and boney knees. I use the "Hug the tank" technique. I use my thighs to hold me against the tank and weight the inside peg in the corners. This technique suits me just fine. I have tried both techniques and I get around the track much faster tank hugging.
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Hey guys,
so when I am in a corner in a lean I find it very comfortable to do the hook turn to tighten the line but everytime I do this I find it helps to put a lot of weight onto the inside footpeg ! It feels like I am almost squating down on the inside peg. (feels)
My calves touch the back of my thigh when I do it.
Am I totally wrong in doing this ? Should the weight rather be on the outside peg ?
This question has been harassing me sinc e awhile now. Help a fellow CSS student out
TenHut (were you a QB?);
I retook all the levels last season and the biggest tool I took away from repeating L's I-III was how badly my body position had digressed on the bike. I used to use the inside peg (to save energy) but now when I catch myself doing it I try even harder to keep my weight loaded outside. It makes the Hook Turn more effective IMHO but it also does demand more from me physically.
As a result of that demand, I use a machine at the gym where I am sitting in a device and push a weight stack out from center with my knees on some pads and then after numerous reps I reverse the pads and then squeeze my knees together (moving the weight stack). It uses all of your core muscles and helps me with the muscle group we use for hanging off from the outside. YRMV.
Rain
Lucy! You got some splaining to do!
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Hi, wanted to share the good news with you. Last Friday I headed up to Darley Moor for my 'on-bike' assessment to get my race licence. The stabilisers worked on the bike in the paddock area, but then failed on the track as I lined up on the start grid. We took them off, as they were damaged in the ensuing topple, as no one was nearby to catch me, and then I headed out with one of the instructors for my riding assessment. Thanks to everything I was taught on levels 1 and 2 at CSS, I was able to identify RP's within two laps and then led the instructor for a further 5 laps. He commented that the lines were spot on, my vision was always ahead, I got on the throttle evenly throughout the corner and riding was smooth. After a discussion with the ACU (Auto Cycle Union) representative, they have give me the green light to race, once I have the stabilisers fixed. This is the first time in the ACU history that a paraplegic has been awarded a solo motorcycle race licence.
I hope this message gets out to other bikers who are paralysed and think that riding is not available to them, as it's not. If they want to know more, please pm me and I can pass on my contact details. I am aiming to do my first race on 4th September at Castle Combe, as it is a local circuit and I know the staff plus track well.
Before I do the race I'll be doing Level 4 with CSS, so I'll be in even better shape to race.
Thanks once again CSS, you are helping to change lives and make history happen.
Talan
Talan,
What a great accomplishment, congratulations. I race with WERA and know two guys that have overcome disability to do what they love. One lost an arm and is amputated at the shoulder an one has an arm but has to use a prothesis to hold on to the bar. There is also a guy that rides NESBA track days who is paraplegic and has an assist mechanism for getting on the bike in the paddock.
I have always felt a sense of accomplishment when I reach a goal in riding or racing but to see what you and others have done to accomplish your goals just makes me want to work that much harder, to pull from deep inside to make things happen. You definitely have the will. I have been in the situation while training to stop at 19 instead of 20, to set the timer for 40 minutes instead of 45, set the weight a little lower today because I feel puny. No more! Thanks for being an inpiration to us all.
You may not be able to use your legs but you are not paralyzed!
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I think we ran CROSBY off? COME BACK Crosby! It's ok. This is what happens when you ask questions on this forum!
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About a year ago(?) there was a thread about this and everyone seemed to like the tech-spec better...
...but in either case, what do you guys recommend for getting them to stick? i put tried stomp grips but they came off. I (thought I) cleaned the surface well, used isopropyl alcohol to clean, but still they wouldn't stay. My tank has a Pringle Potato Chip curve in that part of the tank, so the adhesive has to work hard. I have since bought some tech spec pads but haven't put them on until I'm sure I've got a good formula to make them stay.
I don't want to sound like a commercial for StompGrip. I am not compensated in any way. I have used StompGrip on three different bikes in the last 6 years. I have never had one come off or begin to come off. The technic I use and that is on the instructions is to 1.) CLEAN the surface and 2.) Use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the surface and pad before applying. Remember that nothing sticks to a bad paint job.
I put the pads in the position I want them then mark a few small lines to keep me in the correct position when I permanently apply the pad. Ok, you have the surface hot and the pad hot now start with one corner and peal away in small amounts the backing as you put the pad on the tank. I keep applying heat while doing this as it makes the stompGrip easier to apply. TAKE YOUR TIME! Also remember to push between the studs to adhere surfaces.
I am old. I should probably be in a nursing home. I look for every edge I can to keep weight off the bars and a way to save energy while riding on the track. StompGrip if nothing else makes me confident I can do this. Is it the best? For me it is and that's all that really matters. TechSpec may make you or someone else feel the same way.
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Its great to know the difference between those two.
Since I almost always wear racing boots and knee protectors while riding on the street, I would go with StompGrip.
I have another question. Should I replace my OEM seat? It is kind of sticky. I used to have Corbin Seat on my first bike (I bought the bike with that seat already on). Corbin was very slippery. What kind of seat do you racers prefer, and why?
I want a seat that is not slippery. The reason being is that for me a slippery seat means less friction to hold on with. This is a personal preference and others may have a valid reason for a slppery seat. When I set my position in the turns or for hard braking the extra grip on the seat helps me to hold that position. This situation really comes into play on my Ducati which has a stock seat. It is hell trying to hold on under hard braking. The slippery seat is like a slip and slide and the force of the heavy braking drives me right into the tank...It hurts
. To prevent this means extra effort using my legs to grip the tank and after a while wears me out.Of course this doesn't mean a thing to someone who is riding street, this becomes more of a comfort thing and personal preference for everyday riding.
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Fossil cracks me up with his reasons for rear brake use (I wouldn't personally do #4, don't like to move my feet, and got a better sense of my finger pressure). I hadn't thought of #5 at all, silly me!
Now Crosby, what is to be gained by using the rear while also on the gas...and when exactly are you talking about using it, parking lot speeds, or in real turns?
CF
#4)Is only to be used in H..y S..t mode. Isn't that one of the modes on the new BMW? And this is when one recognizes very early in the turn like coming down the straight approaching the turn screaming like a little girl...I hope this clears things up Cobie..
. To prevent this means extra effort using my legs to grip the tank and after a while wears me out.
Best Lap Times On Sportbike Or Superbike?
in School Questions/General Discussion
Posted
If you are going to get a CBR600RR get the 20008. A fantastic bike, it is the preferred bike in World Supersport and BSB Supersport. You can get a good deal on an '08 and the 09 and 2010 are the same bike. I love the ride. I had to make a decision on either a CBR600RR or a CBR1000RR....twenty pounds difference and 45 more horsepower..