Spaghetti

There are crash-proof cases for cell phones. You'll also need a RAM mount.

I believe harrys lap timer does overlay with iPhone or android: http://www.gps-laptimer.de/Features.html

This is what I gather, after reading countless web pages and hearing various opinions about track tires pressure, like Q3, michelin pilot power or similar: - start with 30/30 psi cold as a rule of thumb - front tire usually carries 2-4 psi more than rear - rear can go as low as 28psi and up to 34 cold, depending weather, track conditions and riding style - 1 psi change will do almost nothing, so go by at least 2 psi change - difference from cold to hot should carry 2/3 psi change as rule of thumb, but it's relative to weather or track. If the change is higher than that tire pressure might be too low.

I had a similar experience than rchase and was told by Mark Bilt at NJMP that tires pressure on track should be lower than factory reccomendation (which are usually for street riding). I think he brought down the rear tire to 28psi hot and 30psi front. After that adjustment I felt more confortable. One possibility though, is that by lowering the pressure tires get warmer quicker and that in turn improves tire performances, especially for less aggressive novice riders (I know that lowering the pressure increases the heat on tires, it can actually be dangerous if the pressure is too low). I'd like to hear the opinion of another expert mechanic on this.

We might not be very far from the Iron Man style display. There is this helmet adds-on that shows speed and GPS data on the lower corner of the windshield: http://www.skullysystems.com/#intro And this one: http://www.ridenuviz.com/#intro

Last weekend I hit the neutral 3 times downshifting my new CBR600RR while thinking I was in 3rd gear when the bike was actually in 2nd. Was a bit unsettling the first time because I had no idea what happened, then I got aware but it can be dangerous. I don't have a shift indicator on this bike and usually go with the rpms to know if I should downshift or stay, but at lower speed is not always obvious whether it's 3rd or 2nd. I could take the corner on 3rd or even 4th gear as far as the rpms are decently low, but the difference in horsepower out of the corner on 4 cylinders 600s is significant. How do you deal with this? Buy a shift indicator? Always memorize each gear (this is not easy if you miss the reference shift at any time)? Get a power/quick shifter?

So for Micheline Pilot or similar (including Q3), tire warmers or not? I've seen Moto-D for $350 and $180 from Pit-Posse. Why the large difference?

How do I calculate the best air/fuel ratio to target?

The amount of pressure on the brakes. If there are ABS sensors, there must be something that can tell us how close we are to lock the tire (or how far rather for beginners).

I've found a PCV on my CBR600RR 2009. I brought it to the track last weekend and man it drinks gas! The engine is very smooth, but I feel like it's running a bit too rich. The previous owner told me the mapping was performed for the current exhaust. Does the autotune would take care of any weather/exhaust change? And does it work in real-time with PCV while I'm riding the bike?

I agree one lap is all you need, but since you have to plan all that logistic and budget to go the track, I'd rather be able to run all my laps comfortably than "wait" to warm up tires. Also many crashes happen in the first laps of the first few sessions, so maybe using tire warmers can reduce that risk a bit, even on street tires?

I'm thinking to buy dual-temp tire warmers for my Michelin Pilot tires. The first few laps of the morning sessions feel always a bit sketchy, especially on the left side at NJMP, where most turns are on the right. Can tire warmers help for this kind of tires? Why the school doesn't use them for the Dunlop Q3? Maybe because bikes are constantly in and out of the track?

I'm thinking to get a RAM mount with Harry lap timer to improve my skills: the ability to check lean angles and track section times sounds like a good idea. I always found the videos recorded at the school a great way to improve because you can see what a mistake look like, not just describe it. What other electronic tools are available? PS: I know there are data loggers recording any possible bike input but maybe those are more for performance setups then skills training.

Trying to add some useful intel here, I've seen a few of those crash videos, for what I can tell: - Inevitably there are number of bikes riding at close range (at least three including the bike with the cam on. Can't remember of track days crash videos with just one bike in front). - At least one of the bikes produces side swings in an attempt to overtake or maybe thinking to gain a "free" line. This is most visible on the straights (it's the opposite of motogp or AMA races where riders try to take advantage of the draft as much as possible and overtake very quickly). - Pace is fast but there is something awkward about body positions. You get this feeling of "touring club" or "wolf pack" and some lack of commitment. Perhaps it's because most riders involved are intermediates or novices, or tired. - Less sure about this but I will list it for debate: looks like the crashes happen more often on the straight than in the corners, oddly enough. Bottom line, when I don't see a clear line of race in front of me or I see "freehand" side moves from one of the bikes, I back up and let them go.

I agree, but you know the saying: there are two kind of riders, those who went down and those who will. It would be deceiving for a new rider to think she will never crash. It can happen even to those who never make a mistake: oil, rain, cold tires... But, to stay positive I've seen dozen of crashes on the track with people walking away without a bruise. Oh, btw: http://www.complex.com/sports/2013/07/the-10-types-of-motorcycle-riders/

Some mechanic told me Kawasaki bikes tend to have less damage during low sides or other moderate crashes: apparently their frames and forks are more resistant. Other Japanese brands, like Suzuki and Yamaha "shred" more easily and end up costing more in repairs. Can you confirm these claims?

So it looks like the consensus is yes for low sides and minor slides, but the question is still open for high-speed and out-of-track crashes. I did see a Triumph 675 frame cracked after an out of track slide: speed was probably higher than 50Mph, the slider got stuck into the ground during the slide, causing a bike flip and cracking the frame where the slider was anchored. I hear a broken frame makes it for a very costly repair.

I hear frame sliders can get stuck into the grass, flip the bike, and cause worse damage during an out of track slide. But then all CSS bikes have them. What's your take?

I know all MotoGP riders wear one now but I've never seen it opening during any crash. How's that possible? Did anyone try the new Spidi or Hit Air airbag jackets? Hit Air model is $400 (reusable after crash). Priceless if it saves a collarbone.

What I meant is you can't apply the highest level of breaking force immediately. Force has to be applied gently at the beginning, then increased and finally trailed towards the apex. I agree, breaking can stop before the apex, but I like the idea of symmetrical decelerating/accelerating force around the corner. When I started I was opening the throttle quickly at the apex, thinking I was maximizing my speed around the corners. It was working pretty well compared to the other beginners on track, helped by the TCS. Until I realized that to maximize traction I needed to accelerate gradually...

Very well done. If you're including clutchless shifts, then I think trail braking should also be described. - Increase breaking power gradually entering the turn until the apex - At the apex completely release breaks and open throttle gradually - Decellaration/Acceleration can be thought as a symmetrical force around the apex

What are the chances: http://imgur.com/gallery/EO4H8dO

Good guess, thank you for the input. The consensus is front-loading, but I suspect there is something more to it. This is a quite sharp (180 degrees begin to end) corner with lots of camber. Entering the corner towards the middle of the track means riding downhill to reach the apex and the bike suspensions can play funny on the uneven cambered surface. Conversely, exiting the corner while accelerating uphill makes it easier for the suspensions to work. Of course, if the corner has a larger radius you can possibly ride in the middle of the track begin to end and never have to travel up and down. Do I get this right? Isn't there something about bike suspensions on cambered turns?

It is possible that I put too much pressure on the handle bars. That turn 6 in Loudon feels like going into a hole, despite the curbing, and the force push you to go on the handle bars. From the picture it's hard to say, it actually looks like the elbow is outside and the shoulder down. Not the typical tense position. It felt like the bike went down in a microsecond. I had no sign of losing the rear or front before the crash. Thanks for the input!

I heard discording opinions about TCS for track-days and racing. One of the CSS coaches once told me that since the school introduced BMW1000RR and electronics incidents went down 20%. Another racer explained me most regional racers dislike TCS and ABS and never bother to consider paying for them. He was claiming electronics reduce bike performance and you're better off learning to master the bike without extra aids. I can see beginners developing bad habits while traction control fixes handling mistakes. So as a track-days guy and novice racer, which way should I go? TCS and ABS or not?