Apollo
-
Posts
88 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Posts posted by Apollo
-
-
With my 05 r6, I vary between 35 to 45 mpg. The 35 happens when I'm consistently making short 1-3 mile trips with warm up. I average 45 when commuting.
-
My experience is that as level 1 is focused on control inputs, the instructors generally won't critique your body positioning unless you're doing something really weird or you ask them. Depending on your day, you may get some time weaving on the no BS bike to check your steering inputs and you might get some comments there. I was shifting a bit side to side during the weaves, but the coach told me to just focus on steering input and move my head into the corner if I really wanted to. So I guess you can interpret that as discouraging hanging off. But that's possibly just the coach's thoughts on me individually. I found not shifting my weight around actually allowed me to better concentrate on improving my "quick turn" as I was upsetting the bike through bad inputs from my incorrect body shifting. I'm not a fast guy though and it was also my first time on a track; I was only running what would be equivalent to a median C group pace, so you may find different results.
When I did level 2 (at least until we got rained out), I asked for help on a hanging off during a break. The riding coach was more than willing to work on my body positioning even though level 2 focuses on visuals. Even then, the riding coach also brought up that not hanging off can allow for more concentration on the skills being practiced as it's one less thing to complicate the practice sessions with.
My advice would be to forget about speed and just focus on what best allows you to practice the individual drills. Each session will have a specific skill that they want you to focus on and learn. You may find hanging off doesn't affect learning, or you may find that hanging off is slowing down your ability to learn these new skills. Just see what happens would be my thoughts.
-
Is it possible to get onto the lean bike as a level 2 student?
I was out at Sears last year and got time in on the braking rig as a level 2 before/as we were getting rained out. I realize level 2 is primarily optics and not body positioning, but I'd definitely like to get as much time as possible to be more comfortable with lean angles.
-
Well, if you're looking at GP Tech's, I would highly recommend looking at Spidi Penta or Carbo-Six gloves.
I think there was a glove test done by ride triangle where one year the A* gloves faired well and I also seem to recall where they didn't fair so well.
The good test for GP plus gloves is http://www.ridetriangles.com/pdf/543/204020.pdf
If you must have A*, go ahead and get em.
-
I've been attributing the leg positioning to usage of the rear brake. Maybe I'm totally off base.
But it seems like Rossi, Hayden, and others use the rear brakes a fair bit. I would think gripping with both legs can help with rear brake modulation since you can lock in with the left on the tank and aren't completely supported by right leg locking into the tank, allowing easier brake modulation. With right handers, they can just lock in the tank with the left leg, as you don't need as much finesse with the shifter as your rear brake, and let the right foot act as an air brake while still maintaining brake modulation control.
Shrugs, any other theories? Maybe I'm totally wrong. Actually, scratch that, probably am wrong. haha..
-
Newbie poking my head in here.
I personally relax on the bars, as little to no pressure as possible in a straight line. I actively focus on using my core to support my upper body and minimize pressure on the bars.
Entering a corner, my outer arm is almost completely relaxed and just goes with the bar for the ride as I countersteer in. My inner, countersteering arm, can then push the bar as quick as it can with the least amount of resistance. I feel the amount of resistance from the road is enough to judge the amount I press forward. Even though level 1 showed that I'm still FAR from "quick turning" as fast as I possibly can, I'd still be thinking that outside pressure on the bars would only serve to slow down your "quick turn" ability while also increasing possibly unwanted bar inputs into the bike.
Is there something weird with my thinking?
-
Stompgrips are alright, but I prefer the TechSpec Snakeskins as RyanITV has said. The Techspecs grip really well and look better than the Stompgrips in my opinion. The CSS fleet has Techspecs installed on the 07 bikes; it was actually riding the CSS bike that got me to pick up a set for my own bike.
PS. Everyone else I know uses Stompgrips; there's nothing wrong with them and they definitely do do the job. For as bubble free as possible of an install, just stick one side of the grip and sweep across to stick the entire grip on; it's like installing a screen protector for a pda.
And another alternative, which is what I was using (uber cheap), is medium or light grade 3M antislip tape. It's far from being as rough as skateboard tape so it won't tear up leathers and only cost me 3 dollars. But I'd recommend the stomps or techs. =P
-
Thanks Keith.
This definitely clarified it for me. All I can say is WOW. Thanks again to you guys. I'm inputting steering and getting the bike to respond much faster since Laguna. When I find the time, I'll definitely be back for level 2.
-Allard
-
Well, first off I just wanted to say thanks to all the CSS staff for the great level 1 experience I had at Laguna Seca.
One thing on my mind now, that I didn't realize while getting help on the steering bike, is just how to position the throttle hand. James' advice to rotate my hands so that I'm pushing more horizontally into the bars instead of angled made me feel more "agile" with the bike, especially with the quick-turn. I never realized how much wasted force I was inputting into the bars by pressing at an angle. The problem is that I'm not sure how to position my throttle hand normally to achieve this optimal position while riding. If I set it up at closed throttle, I limit my ability to fully open the throttle. Looking back on the remainder of the day, I think I was subconsciously using a single standard position where my hand would be in the optimal position at a partial (approx 1/5th way) throttle situation.
Do you start off with the wrist in the optimal position at closed throttle and regrip as you open the throttle? Or do you set a sort of intermediate compromise position where you're angled higher at closed throttle and at or near the optimal wrist position at a partial throttle situation? I wish I had thought of these issues and clarified them while doing the exercise on Wednesday. haha.
-
I can't say that I know why you are dragging your toes but I can share an observation I have made from cornerworking at the School a few times. I notice (and call into course control) that a few students in every School ride "duck footed" meaning that instead of having the balls of their feet on the pegs, they have the arch of the foot (or worse, the heel) on the pegs. The result is that their toes tend to point out from the pegs. When they hang off, the act of extending their knee cause their toes follow on the same plane.
When you have the ball of your foot on the peg, you actually pivot from that position and your toes stay in close to the peg. When your arch (or heel) is on the peg, the toes project that much further out and are are far more likely to touch down, certainly before your knee will.
...one person's observation FWIW.
Kevin
Hey Kevin,
Have there been students who ride duck-footed without any scrapping issues or does CSS tell all the riders to not ride like that? I'm a new-ish rider with no track experience and I haven't gone to the lean angles you guys have.
Since I started, I've tried to model my riding position after what I see from the photos and onboard cameras from riders like Rossi and Haga among others. From the stuff I've seen, ball or arch seems to fluctuate between riders and I'm still confused by it. I would venture to say my current foot placement is duck-footed as I've copied Rossi's positioning in this photo where he's hovering over the brake. Does that position qualify as duck-footed or are you refering to something else?
The photos I've seen show Rossi riding with this style foot placement. It seems like quite a few of the motogp and wsbk guys have their gear shift leg in this position when cornering, but the brake leg seems to be split between ball or arch when making a right turn.
The texts I've read all seem to urge for ball of the feet, but TOTW2 also says one may use the rear brake at their own discretion (so I don't know if that means shifting the leg around while cornering depending on need or just positioning the leg how Rossi does)?
Regards,
Allard
-
Hi everyone,
Just another new member here. I've been riding over a year now and just signed up for Level 1 at Laguna Seca on July 4th. Initially, I rode an 250 nighthawk and recently made a change to an '05 R6. I'm currently a college student, and am a pretty sedate street rider. I have no track experience.
Hopefully, I'll be able to learn as much as possible to improve my riding abilities through CSS. I plan to start alternating between CSS and trackdays as I work on my riding skills set.
-Allard
-
This discussion has definitely been a topic in my mind since I started riding last year. Thus far, I've only been riding on the street and do use my rear brake as I never get near the traction limit, so the rear definitely helps slow me down. Plus, I use the rear brake to settle the bike before apply the brake front, especially on downhills. I'm signed up for level 1 at Laguna in hopes of some progress with my braking/cornering confidence.
On the street thus far, I occasionally trail the rear brake a little bit sometimes if I find myself entering a corner faster than I want. It's not like I'm stepping on the rear brake, but just ever-so-slightly grazing the rear brake to slow it down that extra bit. I think it's mostly a symptom of my bigger issue of my misjudging entry speeds and lack of confidence on entry, but at the same time I also do it when I'm caught off guard by a blind decreasing radius turn or sudden transition and find myself faster than visibility allows me to see into the distance. I definitely believe in a "ride as fast as you can see" on the street. I haven't found any other way so far of correcting high entry speed other than the standard "just lean it over more because the bike will handle it" arguement.
I don't know if it's just another divide between slower street and track riding that I'll learn, or if there's just something I'm not understanding.
Another awaiting answers from more experienced riders.
Motorcycle Mileage (mpg)
in Cornering and Techniques
Posted
That's an interesting comparison. Sounds like that 1098 gets awesome gas mileage. Do you know what your friend's gas mileage was?
On the gas issue, the US uses RON+MON/2 for our octane rating. I'm not sure what's used in Europe, but maybe the rating difference could just be from different standards. However, higher octane fuel won't give better fuel consumption. Fuel is regulated by your fuel mapping. Octane is merely resistance to detonation so that the fuel doesn't combust before the spark.