Hotfoot

Best thing to do would be to call the office to ask about spectator details for the particular school and dates you are attending. Different tracks have different facilities and opportunities for access for spectators, especially right now since covid guidelines vary by state and many are changing over time.

Yes that can be done. Call the office to set it up, so that they can be sure to have a set of tires reserved for you, and to give the mechanic a heads up. The tires may be installed the morning of your school rather than the day before, but talk to the office about that so they can tell you which is best. Talk to the office sooner rather than later, I’m not sure what day the trucks will leave for that school.

That is a thoughtful and well-stated analysis! Very well done on the no-crash record, in all those days. The philosophy of working on technique first and adding speed later is very smart. I bet you would be back up to speed faster than you think, if you start with a couple of CSS days. Personally I feel a LOT less pressure to "go fast" at a CSS school day than I do at an open track day, which makes it a lot easier to make improvements and get up to speed using good technique, with fewer distractions and errors, resulting in more gains and lasting improvements.

It will probably be cheaper overall. To anyone who hasn’t done much track riding that might seem unlikely but to those of us who have purchased and track-prepped a bike, paid track day fees, bought warmers and a generator and a trailer or toy hauler and numerous canopies (they break a lot) and tires and race fairings and paint and gas and laptimers... it doesn’t sound surprising at all!

You can try the racer forum at www.wera.com, or there are a variety of forums by motorcycle brand, there is an s1000rr forum, and R1 forum, etc., you can find them on Google, or you can try racingjunk.com. Good luck with the sale.

No, I know you are half kidding but I’ll answer anyway. The ride sessions are just the right length; as long as you drink water (or hydration drinks like Skratch) between rides you’ll be ok, but a cool underlayer REALLY helps on hot days. Students generally get tired in their legs and core, so quad exercises and Thighmaster type machines to prepare are a good idea, and some core exercises, and also being patient in your first rides so you are not pushing yourself too hard mentally, help a lot to have the stamina to ride all day both days.

I know you already made your decision but for the sake of others that read this, I agree that the two day camps require a better level of fitness. More riding sessions and you don’t have the 15-20 min break between classroom and riding session, you go right from class to track. It’s GREAT for maximizing riding time but some folks do get a little tired.

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I haven't watched the video but I HAVE experienced noticeable changes in handling as a result of changing tires (brand or size), and after a few of those experiences I now pick a brand and size of tire and set up the bike for THOSE tires and stay with them. If I need to change to a different brand or size of tires, I am prepared to start all over on suspension settings and bike setup. Changing to a different model or size of tires can change how the suspension feels - is the tire stiffer than the prior one? Does it have a different profile shape that affects the turn in and steering characteristics? Does it support you differently under hard braking, or during trail braking? - and different tires (even ones that are supposed to be the same nominal size) can have differing widths which can affect the fit of tire to rim or whether the tire will rub the chain or different heights which can change the attitude of the bike. If you changed your front tire and the new one had a little less height than the prior one, it would effectively lower your front end which can affect handling, making the bike steer in more easily but feel less stable. Or if the new tire is taller it could make the bike feel more sluggish to steer but more stable in a straight line. Different stiffness/softness of the carcass changes the steering and suspension feel and the tire's profile changes the feel in the corners, too. At a minimum, if I changed tire models or sizes, I would measure the ride height before and after the tire change and adjust the forks or rear shock to get the bike back to the ride height and attitude that it had prior to the change. I'd also research the design info on the new tires - are they race oriented? Stiffer than the prior model? Is the profile more V shaped than the prior model? - so I have an idea of what might change in the handling and have a plan for how to adjust the bike settings to suit.

See you there! What are you going to ride?

Coaching. The weather looks GREAT. Are you coming?

Ready to ride? I just found out there are a few spots still available for the March 18-19 2 Day Camp at Streets of Willow. It's a rare opportunity to jump in last-minute, schools normally sell out far in advance. I'll be there, I can hardly wait! Sign up, come on out, tell your friends.

Ha ha, looking forward to seeing you again!

Less rake and less trail would make the motorcycle easier to steer into the corner, the front wheel will respond more quickly to steering change. "More stable" generally refers to straight-line stability - the bike is less reactive to accidental steering inputs, steering from wind buffeting or rider movement, less prone to head-shake or over-reactions to bumps. It is more resistant to initial turn-in, takes more steering pressure to start the turn. Referring to "stable" IN a corner would usually just mean the bike holds a line (doesn't drift wide or fall in), the term "stable" would not usually mean that it wants to stand up IN the corner. It is possible that front end instability could cause the bike to want to stand up - if the front is overloaded, shaking, or having tiny slide-and-catch motions from the tire, it could make it want to stand up because the varying load on the tire could create a countersteering effect. Or you could be experiencing the front pushing which makes you have to steer it in more to compensate for the bike not quite following the line you want. Before you get too far into suspension or geometry changes, I would take a very close look at tire profile and tire pressures. Is your front tire worn? If you have a lot of highway miles, the tire can become flattened in the center, and not provide a stable shape for cornering. It is called "profiling" when the tire gets worn unevenly and it can DEFINITELY cause the bike to want to stand up in the corner. Or, a tire that is too stiff (because it is cold, for example) can resist leaning over, and a tire that is too soft (low pressure) can flatten out and cause a counter-steering effect, too.

I look forward to seeing you guys at Barber!