Jump to content

Which Bike To Buy


joe
 Share

Recommended Posts

Iam looking at kawasaki 600r (636) kwi 600rr, ymh r6 , hnd 600rr, szk gsxr 600 ..... but iam aiming at kawasaki 600r (636) because it has an inverted fork , little bit bigger displacement than the rest..if guys you could comment this i would appreciate it..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

currently riding 03 zx6r, really like the kawasaki feels like you can put it anywhere and be really agressive with it. Loads of fun and feels quicker than all 600's ive ridden. The bike seems like a pocket rocket, a toy. It is small and has race style positioning, but twist that throttle and you are out of their. Only change would be tyres some 208's. The 600rr r6 and gsxr600 are all great bikes to, and will swop for 04 gsxr next year. get some long test rides in and see which bike suits you, i tried all the 600's a few times before deciding.

 

best of luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<_< I read some reviews about the, r6 they say its one of the best 600s out there and it true cause they won the AMA super sport series last year. the only thing that i dont like about it is it doesnt have an invert ted fork.... my question is , what are the benifits of having an inverted fork compared to a non inverted one ....
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just because the R6 won the Supersport championship doesn't mean it's the best bike. The combination of rider and bike wins races. A little luck can help too :)

 

Inverted forks are stiffer.

 

Does the R6 have radial brakes yet?

 

Seriously though, I race a ZX6R (636) and love it. It's a great bike. I bought it based on it's performance on the track I don't ride it on the street.

 

I think all the 600s are great bikes, you can't make a bad choice, buy the one that does it for you and don't think twice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
:D hey guys i finally bougth a bike (i end up with 04 cbr 600rr) the bike is very nice , i just need some suggestions on how to brake it in .. i look in the owners manual and all that is in there was no full throttle in the first 600 mile, no red line something like that. so what iam doing now is just take it easy (3000 rpm to 5000rpm say 35mph to 45mph) for the first 50mile and yesterday tried doing 60mph for a few minutes and i think the motor runs a little bit smoother.. i dont know if iam doing it right or what ...... any comments or suggestion :(<_<:ph34r:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Joe,

 

There are some break in suggestions on this BBS under the setup & handling section.

 

There is a site called Mototune that is worth taking a look at before you go any further in your engine break in activities. Yes, stop running the bike, read the web site. There is a point at which none of his advice will work (the engine will be broken in)

 

Here is the site http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

sign up with the page, there are about three or four articals about break in secrets and you need to read and understand them all before you make a decission on what you are going to do with your $10k investment.

 

Keep us posted on what you decide and what the results are.

 

Rman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rifleman :huh:

thanks for that link that you gave me , now i realized now why the motor runs and shift smoother cause yesterday i run my bike all the way to 9000rpm for a few short burst and i think iam ganna do it again after work and then change oil tomorow..and ill keep you posted on the result..

 

joe :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

guys, the result was very good, even though its a little bit late on my part (started running hard at 50 miles on odometer) but i still did any ways i run it hard short burst and decel. did that couple times and the next day , i change my oil and run it, boy there is is a very significant change the motor was like a humming bird smooth and howling at the upper rpms.... peeeeerfect.

my question is, does this means my by is already broken in????? any body ....thanks :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, the term "broken in" most likely includes a few more things then simply piston ring seating but I'm going to go out on a limb and say that piston ring seating is the largest percentage of "break in".

 

Yes, a few runs as Motoman described means that the rings and cylinder cross hatching are now polished. remember that the piston goes up and down once for every RPM. That means at 10k the rings and cylinder wall are polishing each other 20,000 times a minute.

 

I always wondered how the race teams ever found the time to race if they needed to put 1200 miles on a rebuilt engine before it was race ready. The answer is they didn't.

 

Other things to look at during "break in" include brake rotors and calipers, chains and sprockets and clutch slipage. Actually you should be looking for all kinds of loose stuff, bolts and nuts that have fallen off. If they were not tight at the factory they will be on the road somewhere behind you. The best time to do this is when you are washing and cleaning. Look at the machine and if something doesn't look right, investigate further. A clutch can be adjusted quick and easy and usually is at the factory, but if something wasn't set right and you continue to run on a loose clutch you will be buying one in the near future.

 

Change your oil and filter soonest. Then I would change it at 1000 miles, 3000 miles, and then every 3000 after that or in the fall at the end of the riding season if you don't put 3000 miles on in a season.

 

The big thing I'm looking for is how dark the oil gets after 3000 miles if the rings are seated using the blasting technique.

 

thanks and good luck.

 

Rman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

B) Iam close to 600m on my bike right now using blast method for break in , i did my first oil change at 50m and as of now the oil looks like i ve just change my oil so far so good....

about the temp, i notice that the temp when the bike is running was like 170'f to190'f but on a stop light the temp goes up from 190 to some where at 230 , is that normal ? whats the normal operating temp for 600rr? any body .....

thanks <_<

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea, heat up at the light is common, there is little or no air flow over the radiator when the new bikes arn't moving forward (all that pretty plastic). Some of the big bikes have a back up fan that will kick on and pull air through when you?re at idle.

 

230'F shouldn't be a problem, that is oil running through the cooler, not water. If you peg the indicator, that is trouble. If you are stuck in traffic on a hot day, it is wise to pull over and shut her down for a bit (face into the wind if you can) and let things cool down. But even 5 or 10 mph of forward motion should keep things cool if you arn't reving to the limiter.

 

The bikes have to be moving to be cooled properly. Even if you are running it for over a minute or two in your shop, put a fan in front of it on high.

 

Good to hear that the blasting technique worked as advertised. If you can, keep me posted as the number of miles on the bike goes up. I'd like to know if your oil ever starts to get dark (black) as time goes on

 

Rman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

one more thing, about shifting ? if iam at 1st gear and up shift to 2nd and 3rd the bike kind a jerks the bike but not every time , i think its my timing.... and is cbr 600rr have a slippert clutch ?

 

yeap, ill be glad to keep you posted about the progress of this bike . like i said so far so good, and thanks.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Work on the timeing and try to avoid the slipper clutch if you can. Ballistic had a few words on this topic and they were spot on.

 

I have the same problem from 1 to 2nd because I don't pull the clutch in all the way (speed shift) Pulling the clutch in more and letting the engine rev down a tiny bit longer will make the shifts smoother.... but slower.

 

One of the drills mentioned on this board is to pratice shifting where you try to approximate the engine RPM between two gears. That is to say from 2nd @ 6K (49mph) to 3rd @4.2K (49mph) Twisting the wrist up or down as you shift back and forth between the gears at the same speed, trying to "catch" the gears with out being tough on the tranny. Listen to the engine as you let out the clutch, does it speed up or slow down. This is easy to do in the upper gears (4 to 5 or 5 to 6) so if you want to get the feel for it, pratice the last two at the top until you get the feel for it and then work down into the lower gears.

 

this just may be a need for more experiance is all

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...