2012 Cbr1Krr Set Up

[prnc81]

Just finished dialing in my front and rear SAG.

 

 

With the stock front I was only able to get it to 34mm (I was hoping to dial it in at 30mm). The rear currently set at 33mm (I left it there instead of going to 30mm because I hit the limits of my front preload at 34mm).

 

 

Two question:

1) Recommendations on stiffer springs on the front to enable me to set my SAG at 30mm.

 

2) Should I back off the rear preload to get to 34mm or more (is having the rear SAG at 33 with the front at 34 going to make my bike turn in slower or adversely impact handling)? I haven't been able to take her for a spin since dialing in as it is pouring down (monsoon type of pouring) and looks like it'll be raining for days down here in Atlanta.

 

NOTE: Compression (confirmed stock settings before starting) and Rebound (removed prior to setting SAG for both front and rear and have been set back to stock settings for front and rear since dialing in).

 

 

 

Thanks for any assistance or recommendations - I'm trying to learn more about this whole suspension set-up stuff. I have typically only set SAG (or attempted to) on all of my bikes and left compression and rebound at stock.

[khp]

First of all, welcome to the wonderful world of suspension tuning. This involves a certain amount of suspense (sorry, bad joke).

 

Secondly, I would not be concerned about 1-mm differences. As I recall, the recommendation is a range, 30-35mm.

Thirdly, I would ride it before buying HW components.

 

Check for bottoming out in the front. (did you put zip ties around the fork legs?) If you're able to do consistent (rolling) stoppies, try this to see how close to bottoming you get.

 

If it still felt wrong or you are bottoming out even after adding compression, I would look at shimming the spring first (PVC or Aluminium tubing). Only then would I look at installing a new spring. Racetech, Ohlins and others have several possible spring rates. Make sure you know which one you're starting with.

BTW, did you check the rider diet? there might be some possible performance improvements possible there

[prnc81]

KHP - thanks for the feedback! I still haven't been able to ride yet as it's been alternating between downpour and steady rain all day, but I will use zip ties to check for bottoming once I'm able to get back in the saddle. Also, thanks for the advice on shimming the spring (although I will have to do a little more research in this area as I'm not familiar with proper proceedure) if necessary before looking into new springs.

The rider could stand to loose a few lbs - but I'm 6'3.5" and weigh in at 210 Lbs (so I'm not too far out of line in that dept). I work out with resistance training pretty regularly, play competitive softball, ride pretty much every day (unless it is storming or once daytime temps are below freezing - basically gives me approx 9-10 mnths here in GA), and hit the eliptical trainer a couple of times a week as well. I also have a 3 yr old little man who keeps me pretty busy hitting various playgrounds and parks on the weekends - that's a lot of fun (especially chasing bubbles all over the place).

 

Thanks again KHP - I'll let you know how the zip ties work out.

[khp]

You're welcome. Shimming simply means that you put a tube of appropriate diameter on top of the spring to add more installed preload. Mind you, this will require you to compress the spring during installation, and either involves a tool to do the compression or a certain amount of cussing while trying to have more hands than you actually have (BTDT).

 

Sometimes the default spring rate is just way off, and you need to get aftermarket springs. My old YZF600R ("ThunderCat") was way undersprung for my (at the time) 6'6"/185lbs as I would bottom out the fork almost every time I did hard braking. A set of Ohlins springs with spacers solved the issue for good

 

Mind you, having too hard springs is as least as bad (if not worse), than too soft springs.

 

/Kai

[prnc81]

You're welcome. Shimming simply means that you put a tube of appropriate diameter on top of the spring to add more installed preload. Mind you, this will require you to compress the spring during installation, and either involves a tool to do the compression or a certain amount of cussing while trying to have more hands than you actually have (BTDT).

 

Sometimes the default spring rate is just way off, and you need to get aftermarket springs. My old YZF600R ("ThunderCat") was way undersprung for my (at the time) 6'6"/185lbs as I would bottom out the fork almost every time I did hard braking. A set of Ohlins springs with spacers solved the issue for good

 

Mind you, having too hard springs is as least as bad (if not worse), than too soft springs.

 

/Kai

 

Once again - thanks for your input - I'll definitely look into shimming them - that may save a few $'s! I've heard good things about Ohlins - if the spacers don't work for my stock springs I'll give them a look. Wow - 185 at 6'6"... I haven't seen 185 Lbs since highschool (11th grade)! You must've been less than 1% body fat - I was less than 2% at 195 Lbs back in my football playing days...

 

I was shooting to set my SAG at 30mm front and back - but since I could only get 34mm on the front, once I got to 33mm on the back I left them there. Who knows, I may really like that set-up and just leave it there - if I drop a few Lbs that might put me a little closer to 30mm. Those measurements were with full leathers, back protector, etc. Since I commute wearing mesh jacket and pants, it'll save quite a bit of weight from my leather gear so that should put me closer to 30mm without the additional weight. However, whenever I ride outside of commuting I generally wear the full leather gear (hit US 129 over Blood Mtn and occassionally up to Deals Gap to ride the Tail of the Dragon) and I think I'd like to see what 30mm SAG feels like for the track - assuming I start doing track days several times a year.

 

Thanks again Kai!

[prnc81]

Kai,

 

Thanks for your advice - I was finally able to get out for a spin this evening after my softball game and I tested using the zip ties. I was not in full leathers - leather pants and mesh jacket (without back protector) because I was just too damned hot to put it all on. However, after several hard stops as well as a few quick hard brake - roll - hard brake - roll - hard brake sequences the zip ties are almost an inch away (7/8ths) from bottoming so I think I'm pretty good. Cornering was very responsive, tracked well, and felt solid thoughout several quick turns with knee scraping a couple of times. I wasn't pushing as hard as I could go on the brakes, but I figured with about an inch of room I wouldn't bottom even if I got the rear tire off the ground.

 

Thanks again,

Prince