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Break In Procedure For New Track Bike


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Looking for input on the proper (outside recommended) break in for a bike that you will run or race on the track. Your thoughts are greatly needed please. Also looking for your synthetic oil of choice and the miles on the bike's clock before you switch.

 

 

greg

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Greg,

 

Our cheif mechanic would be a great source on this, and there are some different thoughts on this--like are you breaking the bike in to race, or get the most mileage out of the engine, but here is some data:

 

We try and follow the recommendations, at least for the first 500 miles, but don't always get the opportunity. If you get get 500 miles on the engine before taking it over 5k that's good. I know we don't start with synthetic, but not exactly sure where we switch over.

 

Those first oil changes are critical too, make sure you do them. If you don't get an answer soon, e-mail our chief mechanic at: mechanic@superbikeschool.com

 

Best,

CF

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Check out http://www.mototune-usa.com Not sure if that's right but, if you'll just type mototune usa you should find it. He say's crank it rev the piss out of it for 20 minutes and change the oil and filter can't remember the rest but claims better piston ring seal, better compression, more horse power and longer lasting motor. That's how I break in a new 1/8 mile drag car motor.

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Check out http://www.mototune-usa.com Not sure if that's right but, if you'll just type mototune usa you should find it. He say's crank it rev the piss out of it for 20 minutes and change the oil and filter can't remember the rest but claims better piston ring seal, better compression, more horse power and longer lasting motor. That's how I break in a new 1/8 mile drag car motor.

 

That is without a doubt the worst advice on brake-in I have heard. I don't belive it is possible to hurt a current motor by just jumping on and riding it, even hard. But the idea that you would end up with a better sealing motor is seriously flawed.

 

A typical "drag car" motor is an old school V8 with iron linners, depending on the borring process, the grit of honning, and the use of torque plates you may be able to get a good seal with the first pass but you wouldn't have a 200,000 mile motor either.

 

The idea of running the motor at a certain RPM is to seat the cam and lifters to each other in a V8. At idle the cam doesn't get enough oil and can hurt the hard faceing leading to flat lobes. Motorcycle engins don't suffer from that issue and are in a bath of oil not hanging in mid air with oil dripping from above.

 

Many engine builders (cars) will start an engine with an old cam to seat the rings and pistons with heat cycles before installing the new cam and running the engine at 2,000 + RPM for 20 to 30 minuets. What is good for the cam isn't always best for the pistons and rings.

 

Will

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Will,

 

What do you recommend on break in? (might as well get it out here). Follow the factory recommendations?

 

CF

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  • 1 month later...
He say's crank it rev the piss out of it for 20 minutes and change the oil and filter

 

That's not exactly what he recommends... :lol:

 

Mototune's break-in procedure is based on heat cycles, getting a good ring seat and changing oil right away to get the metallic particles out of the engine right away. FWIW, I have used this method on my last two track bikes ('03 ZX-6R and '06 GSXR1K) with excellent results. The ZX6 was done on the dyno, put down great numbers and ran perfectly for the 2.5 years I had it (~4000 track miles). No issues whatsoever. The GSXR is new this year, and I've only got around 400 track miles, but so far, so good. It also put down good numbers, but the break-in was not done on the dyno.

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I didn't go and read his procedures (tried the site but wasn't up when I did), and we have had about zero engine problems in the last 25 years. Sounds like mototune's procedure wasn't quite correctly posted.

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here's the link...

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

the old tuner's lore about "breaking it in fast=a fast motor" is substantiated, even with our modern processes and technology.

i have always broken in my bikes quicker than the factory recommends, along the same lines as motoman recommends. i've found my bikes to be quicker than the same model broken in following factory guidelines.

i'm on this guy's bandwagon.

most recently, i tore down the top-end of my racebike. no visible blow-by on the piston at all, none.

my other "highly tuned" bike has a compression ratio of only 12.4...broken in the fast way. how can you explain compression testing of 250psi if the rings had a "lazy" seal? i can't. it's a rocketship with very harsh use of the throttle hand over 20k miles and still a monster.

ymmv. ;)

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