Hotfoot

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Everything posted by Hotfoot

  1. This is a very good point, the power band for two strokes is a much different curve, the power hits really hard and it is not nearly as linear as current 4-stroke bikes. Tires are better, too, more predictable. Just those two factors alone probably make a big difference on being able to slide and wiggle a lot without actually crashing, compared to the older 500Gp bikes. And that's before even taking into account the advancements in suspension and frames. I do agree that they are really riding on the edge - I am always amazed, watching the races, how far they are willing to push those bikes. Maybe the better safety gear is a factor, too, keeping those bravest-of-the-brave riders in the game, rather than suffering injuries that limit or end their riding careers.
  2. Glad you guys cleared this up, that definitely sounded odd to me too.
  3. I put one on my ZX6R and really liked it. My reason for doing it was range of motion, the stock throttle turned so far, that to get it pinned that I had to re-position my hand in the middle of the roll on OR start out with my hand in a weird forward position to get enough travel to get from full-off to full-on. For street it was a total non-issue but for track riding it was a pain, so I switched to a throttle with a shorter travel and it worked great. I did not find it overly sensitive and easily adjusted to it. It really didn't seem much more "quick" than the stock one, I had no trouble with that at all.
  4. A small dirt bike is a great way to get comfortable with bike control, using the clutch and brakes on a bike, and shifting. Look for a dirt riding instruction course, or a go-kart track that allows minis or small dirt bikes, that way you can get BOTH bike experience and track experience. Leaning how to manage the controls is the tough part - once a rider can comfortably start and stop, shift, use the clutch and brake, and ride around at 25 mph, adding speed is really not very difficult. We certainly have riders come to school that start out worried about speed but very quickly get comfortable with it, once they have some education about how to control the bike and have certainty about what it is going to do. I would send a relatively inexperienced to a school - ANY school - LONG before I would send them to an open trackday. Those can be VERY intimidating, and not all are well controlled. Generally the staff and other riders at a school are more accommodating and welcoming for inexperienced riders, take more time to acclimate them to the rules, etc. You should research the trackday org very thoroughly before you send someone with little riding experience and make sure they are open to that - some organizations are, but many are not - and make sure there is some good classroom instruction for newbies to give the rider an understanding of racetrack safety and etiquette (not just a 10 minute riders meeting) , and someone to help if the rider is having trouble getting around the track in control of the bike. Distractions like cars and dogs and kids and distracted drivers is a whole other thing - way scarier than riding on a racetrack, if you ask me.
  5. That's a track question, CSS is certainly fine with it. Check the VIR website for detailed info on camping options: http://virnow.com/lodging/camping/ or here for really detailed info on policies and rules: http://virnow.com/about/policies/
  6. Dave Moss
  7. What were you going for when re-covering the seat? More grip, or less? Or were you reshaping them?
  8. I really like how you can see how the bar movement correlates to bumps - you can see the camera (and sometimes the rider) bounce a little from a bump and you can see how the bars wiggle to compensate as the tire and suspension deal with the bump. He definitely does a great job staying loose and letting the bike do its job!
  9. What a great post! Lots of good info in here and I am really glad you are experimenting and exploring - sounds like you are approaching it in a very smart way, working on your throttle control first, then changing one thing at a time on the bike to feel the difference each change makes. A lot of riders try changing a bunch of things all at once (different tires or tire pressure, and multiple suspension changes all at once), you are smart to take that systematic approach and notice - and write down! - the difference from each change. Well done and thank you for sharing, this was very interesting to read.
  10. Sure, go for it. Or you can start a new thread if you want. It can be hard to correlate video to maps - sometimes what looks like one turn in the video shows as two on the map, especially if the rider rides them as one big arc. T2 and T3 on this video sorta-kinda shows that - you can see a second X to show the second turn point but the rider takes a smooth arcing line so you don't really see a straight section on the video in between the turns, even though on the map you can see one. IMO maps should show obvious landmarks, like bridges that cross over the track and large outbuildings or grandstands that are easily seen when riding. And, of course, elevation changes don't show on a flat line map, but there are some cool elevation maps for some tracks, I think the Barber website has one, they make the track look like a roller coaster.
  11. If you mean where on the map, it is between turns 6 and 7. If you mean where in the video briang posted it is at 0.55 in the video, and again at 2:40. :).
  12. My preference with my outside foot is to put the ball of my foot on the peg and drive my heel up into the heel guard which helps stabilize my lower leg. I have small feet and can't reach the heelguard if I slide my foot down to the arch/instep. When I began coaching I started to REALLY notice it when a rider would come by me on the freeway with their toes sticking way down past the peg. I know it's probably more comfortable for long rides but it sure does catch my attention. What about dirt riding? For those of you that do any dirt riding, where do you put your feet?
  13. Definitely the main reason to put the balls of your feet on the pegs is to avoid dragging your toes or catching your toe on inside curbing. It does also make it easier to do a calf raise to drive your knee up into the tank for a secure hold. I'm going to speculate here - the racers that have the outside foot arch on the peg may be holding on more with their upper inner thigh which might make the outside foot rotate out a little, making it hard to keep the ball of the foot on the peg without slipping off.
  14. Yes, that got fixed! I liked your post.
  15. Since you are looking into traction at varying lean angles, you may want to read about the current race tires, there is so much interesting information out there about the shape of the contact patch when leaned over, and the amount of grip available at various lean angles (given good track conditions and correct tire temperature), it is astonishing to look at what a full race tire can do, and to learn about the differences in profiles and compounds of street versus race tires, and compare longevity versus grip versus price and versatility... there's a lot to know, and the type of tire makes an appreciable difference in the amount one can drive when leaned over. So does good suspension, so if you get bored reading about tires you can always start investigating the intricacies of suspension tuning. In that arena I always feel like the more I learn the more I realize how MUCH MORE there is to learn!
  16. Was it only your availability that was a problem, or was it sold-out school dates? If the latter is an issue, get on the waiting list for some dates, sometimes spots open up. Otherwise... can you consider different tracks to get more options?
  17. What bike do you wish was made and available where you live? Or which old model that used to exist do you wish was available again now? Mine is a lightweight sport bike (300 lbs or less) with a LOW seat height (like 29"), with a 400-600cc engine, with middle to high-end adjustable suspension components, good brakes, and good handling. Something like the older Ninja 250s seat height but more power and better components. Also a really good lightweight dual-sport bike with a 350-450cc engine and a short seat height and adjustable suspension. All the current 450s are too tall and heavy, and the 200-250s are totally entry level with non-adjustable suspension and very limited upgrade capability.
  18. No, not really. I have found my own solutions, and I don't need another bike. I have a Moriwaki MD250H race bike (around 190 lbs, seat under under 29") and I also have a SuperSingle race bike (a converted YZ450F) that is around 240 lbs- it's tall, but very light and an excellent race bike and track day weapon. Neither are remotely close to street legal, but I do I have a street legal YSR50 which is the absolutely most awesome bike ever for someone my size. Yeah, it's a little slow but you sure FEEL like you are going fast.... If I was really in the market I would probably give the Grom a serious look. WERA racers have a created a race class for those, sounds like a hoot. The other bike I keep looking at is the Zero electric dual sport. I want one, but it is expensive (and tall and heavy too, unfortunately), but I like the idea of an all-electric, very quiet trail bike. No more old-fuel issues, clogged jets, etc., no oil changes, almost no maintenance at all, and tons of torque.
  19. I had high hopes when the KTM 390 was announced, but the seat height is 830 mm, that is over 32", even taller than a typical 1000cc bike! What were they thinking? Even the Ninja 300 has a seat height of nearly 31", and it weighs 362 lbs dry, not far off from the weight of an S1000rr (about 10% difference), and the R3 is similar in weight and seat height. The manufacturers seem to be competing to make an inexpensive and slightly more powerful bike (compared to the venerable Ninja 250) but they are not making it friendly for small riders - they aren't reducing weight much and seat height is going UP not down, nor are they putting in suspension and brake components comparable to what is going on the 600s, and upgrading those smaller bikes is difficult - and pointless, since you are still stuck with a relatively tall, heavy, underpowered bike - so you are basically forced into a 600 if you want a decent ride. Lowering bikes always SOUNDS easy - especially when a sales person says it - but in my experience it is actually a real hassle, you are monkeying with the geometry and/or cutting down the seat and most dealerships don't know how to do it, they tell you to take it to an auto upholstery shop, or if you are lucky they offer to put in a lowering linkage - but they can't tell you how that will affect the handling, and if you are short and FEMALE, they might even tell you the handling "won't matter" and that "you'll never know the difference". It seems to me that the manufacturers need to take a look at their 450cc class dual-sport bikes and use one of those as a basis for a 450cc road bike that is in the 320lb range. The frames are lightweight and the engines are powerful, if they would just drop the ride height/ground clearance and put on a fairing and a low seat (29.5"), they'd probably have something I'd want to buy.
  20. Alpinestars, Spidi, and Dainese make them, maybe other manufacturers as well. Revzill is a good site for stuff like that and they often have helpful reviews too. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle-chest-protectors
  21. You'd have to add the caveat "...but only if you think your throttle control is smarter than you." Personally I still like to have the control to choose my own acceleration (riding at the limit of traction is not always the ideal scene) and besides, you still need to know how to ride if your electronics fail, right? Or if your buddy offers you a chance to ride on a cool vintage bike, or a kick-ass 2 stroke GP bike. Here's a question: what sort of conditions could a novice rider CREATE that would prevent a traction-control enabled bike from performing well?
  22. I have found it useful to watch on-board video and study a track map before going to a new track. Elevation changes and camber changes are very hard to see on video, but just getting some familiarity with which way the track goes and finding some landmarks (buildings, etc.) has really helped me learn a track faster once I get there. I felt it helped me the most with quickly learning the turn numbers (very helpful in communicating with a coach) and with being more prepared for any "gotcha" corners that tighten up a lot, or blind hills, so I had an idea what to expect and would avoid either charging in too fast or being super-tentative because I wasn't sure what was coming.
  23. Got it.
  24. So... what was it that changed for you? Just curious.