Jump to content

mugget

Members
  • Content count

    407
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

mugget last won the day on September 16

mugget had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About mugget

  • Rank
    Cornering Master

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.postpixel.com.au

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brisvegas, Australia
  • Interests
    Currently - Building a 2T supermoto

Previous Fields

  • Have you attended a California Superbike School school?
    Level 1 at Queensland Raceway

Recent Profile Visitors

9,263 profile views
  1. Just to be clear - when I talk about "maximum lean" in my own riding I'm talking about my lean angle in any given corner, not the actual possible maximum. But if tyres start sliding a lot more than usual in combination with greater than usual lean angle, it probably doesn't mean that I can't lean more, go faster, etc. - but I'd sure be paying careful attention to that feedback and wouldn't push too much more. Yeah plenty of fast guys don't need a massive knee slider budget for a year of racing. I did some training with Wayne Maxwell once and he goes through about 3 sets of sliders a year, which is not that much... But I am starting to get the idea that using knee sliders might have any benefit now, I don't really slide on corner entry, mid-corner - mainly on throttle. But as my riding changes and (hopefully!) improves I am starting to see how I could use it. Will keep that one in the bag until then. Cheers guys. And yes I think we can all agree that knee sliders are one of the biggest tools in Marquez bag of tricks! Haha
  2. Not using my knee sliders, my thoughts on maximum lean angle and gauging surface traction are that it can be done simply by paying attention to feedback from the tyres and adjusting my riding based on this. For example if I was using more lean angle than usual and noticed increased sliding at maximum lean I'd take that to mean that it's pretty close to the maximum lean angle the tyres can take. The other thing having gone so long without actually using knee sliders is that it's almost at a point where I feel it would be a distraction if I was regularly using them without actually being close to what the tyres and bike can do. If I only have $10 to spend, I'd rather keep as much as I can focused on what the tyres are doing instead of spending $1 or $2 here and there whenever a slider touches down and thinking "hhmmm light touch" or "wow, that dug in a lot..." My exhaust (M4 GP) is the most likely part to scrape (already has) and I have rearsets, so there isn't really a risk of dragging hard parts, so the way I see it using the knee slider for that reason just isn't worth it for me. I'm happy with the way my riding is progressing, I don't feel like I'm missing out on anything not using sliders but it just made me think if there's any other way I could or should be using them after seeing that post from Dave Moss...
  3. Ok so if someone was exploring trail braking (moreso deep trail braking?) or raising their corner entry/mid-corner speed I can see that could be an area where using the knee slider could be beneficial, perhaps mostly as a safety device to save slides?
  4. Can Quick Turn Be Overdone?

    Wish I had a computer to look at the video frame by frame... but I don't think there's anything too mysterious happening here... For those who have ever done a quick change of direction through a slalom or short chicane you might have noticed that it takes very little throttle (or any at all, if the steering rate is so quick?) to lift the front wheel as the bike is coming upright on the change of direction. This is because the steering rate is so great, you have the inertia of the bike coming from lean to upright, the mass of the bike combined with that inertia means that it wants to keep going up - hence lifting the front wheel. If you're then trying to lean the bike over in the other direction while the front wheel is in the air... well you can guess what happens. I've also seen this with strange geometry/weighting. It was on a work delivery scooter, bit of weight in the top box, a quick-ish u-turn or even just straightening up quickly out of a regular corner would bring the front wheel off the ground and cause a decent tank slapper if not controlled properly. Given the extremes that MotoGP racers are dealing with it wouldn't surprise me if Vinales front wheel came off the ground and caused him to crash.
  5. Better Body Position for Steering

    I thought of this when I saw your post... Dave Moss comes out with some very insightful comments every now and then: Take particular note of your clip on angle as well as the position relative to the forks. To me moving the clip ons 30mm in front of the forks is a fairly radical setup, but what I take away from this is that the riders comfort and ergonomic fit is the highest priority. Move the controls to wherever you need them, the bike is always going to steer better for you if you can use the controls more effectively.
  6. Hi all, I was just reading one of Dave Moss post on Facebook and it really got me thinking... here's the post: And here's my comment on that post: Very interesting post... lots to think about. Makes me wonder if I have been missing the benefits of an important learning tool all this time... Like everyone when I started out I viewed "knee down" almost as the pinnacle of riding technique. As time went on I realised that getting a knee down is not an end goal in itself, it's the product of correct riding technique. I also thought that I didn't want to limit myself and stop leaning as soon as my knee touched down - better to feel the actual tyre grip and let that determine your maximum lean angle. So I just let my knee hang comfortably and it doesn't bother me that it almost never touches down. I'm still pretty happy with my riding and I'm within ~6 seconds of very fast racers at my local track (1:06 vs 1:00 flat, where anything quicker than 1:15 is considered pretty fast for the average rider). Talking about front end slides, I feel like this needs to be qualified - under what circumstances is the front end sliding? In combination with trail braking? I don't trail brake much, and if you're entering a corner with no brakes I've actually found that to be the safest way to increase corner speed and push myself on corner entry and mid-corner; the gains come from getting the bike to maximum lean in as short a time as possible, and if you're really turning in that quickly we know that the rear end will slide before the front does. So I wonder how I can use knee sliders as a tool in my current riding level and style? Or does it's use as a tool really only come into play when heavy trail braking is involved? Thanks in advance for any comments, this seems like a very interesting discussion.
  7. Coasting = Maintenance Throttle?

    Seems like we have crossed wires here... The point I am getting at is that there is no reason to view coasting as something bad or undesirable. In fact unless someone is an exceptionally skilled rider and is either using brake or throttle all of the time, then they have to be coasting to some degree! Why is it that people tend to avoid coasting, why does it make them feel uncomfortable? Thinking back to before I had any type of training, I definitely felt uncomfortable when coasting - and this was wholly due to the fact that I didn't have a clear understanding of correct throttle use and as such my line choice left a lot to be desired (hugging the curb, riding constant radius lines, etc.) Now the way I ride has changed drastically. I never ride on a constant radius line, therefore my steering input is only completed moments before I have identified my exit point, know that I am going to hit it and begin to open up the throttle. If I am "cruising" around the track, then my entire steering input is definitely completed while I am coasting. As I am getting more comfortable with higher corner entry speeds I am gradually adding trail braking - but still finish the majority of the steering input while coasting. Eventually I hope to be able to completely eliminate coasting, but that will be quite a big step and is still a ways off. Maybe we are thinking of vastly different riding levels, but to me there is simply no option between coasting or using throttle mid-corner. That is because the line choices available mean that there is no in-between, effectively it becomes possible to late apex every corner so that you're ready for throttle as soon as turn-in is complete. Edited to add > Coasting is not always a problem, it can be a solution... depending on how you use it.
  8. Coasting = Maintenance Throttle?

    Hhmmm... unless it's a fast corner or a slow entry into a faster corner, I tend to have the throttle closed when coming into a corner. PGI - Yes I think that definition of charging a corner is pretty spot on. I don't think it has so much to do with chopping the throttle or abrupt brake control (they are riding errors in their own right). The reason I made that comment about coasting into corners is that it's absolutely the safest way I've found to build confidence and work up to a higher corner entry speed. When you realise what the biggest danger is you'll probably agree that coasting is safe... think about every single racing crash you've seen where they've gone down on corner entry (one rider on their own, without being skittled by another). It all has to do with the front brake! The front locks up, and they go down! Therefore if you don't touch the front brake you completely eliminate that risk. It is also a good exercise to help refine your sense of speed, much like the "no brake" drills at the school. As we were told - if you can't set your speed within 300 metres of straight you have no hope of doing it within 100m with brakes. The other big benefit to being comfortable with coasting is when you're riding double apex corners or want to take a wide/late turn-in and still be able to tighten your line and make your apex. What happens if you're riding in a circle with constant throttle, then roll off the throttle..? Your line will tighten - exactly the same as when you coast into a turn. In combination with the Hook Turn this can open up so many line choices, like being able to ride your 1000 on a line that only 300's would otherwise ride!
  9. Coasting = Maintenance Throttle?

    This caught my attention... why do you call coasting bad? It made me curious because coasting into corners has been one of my preferred corner entry methods for a long time. Consider what happens when you turn into a corner and don't touch the throttle - what would happen to your line? Would that ever be useful to you?
  10. Lowering the body

    I think there's a lot of emphasis on getting your head low, but that isn't everything... as Cobie alluded to, Level 3 explains everything about it. I would just add that it's similar to knee down - if you are trying to get your knee down - if you're trying to get your head low, then you're doing it wrong. These shouldn't be goals in themselves, but are end results of correct riding technique. Before I did Level 3 I would try and hold my body in all kinds of uncomfortable positions through the corner. Afterwards, I wasn't getting anywhere near as tired, riding took less effort and my body movement were more effective - I was overall a much better, faster rider.
  11. Heat Cycles

    On the topic of thinner tread having less grip - isn't it the same rubber compound all the way through the tyre? Or do you mean less overall grip/less grip remaining? Jaybird - can only speak from my experience, but knowing how much tyre I use on a day I wouldn't start a day unless I have enough tread to get me through. In saying that I have once gone right past the tread wear marker and worn the tread sipes right down on the side and didn't notice it ride any differently...
  12. After-market throttle cables

    Hhmmm... maybe it's just something you get used to, seeing as there are so many different throttle ratios on different bikes anyway.
  13. After-market throttle cables

    Interesting, I've never really felt the need for this sort of thing or a "quick throttle". I think lots of guys swap the R6 throttle onto Gixxers but I've never had a problem that I felt I needed to fix. I do have to wonder how it would affect high-RPM rear wheel slides if you have less throttle range to manage that with... That has always been the one big turn off for me.
  14. Lowering the Risk for New Riders

    Joe really need experience. But there are two kinds of experience - bad and good. It doesn't do you any good if you have "10 years of riding experience", but it's all bad experience! You can gain good experience through the application of systematic training that teaches the core basics of motorcycling. I wish I had started on a dirt bike - lower speeds and having a little spill at low speed on dirt sure is a lot less intimidating than crashing on the street (or heaven forbid, track)! Don't over estimate what is required of you at CSS just because they're held on a race track... My first time on track at CSS I was actually thrown completely because everyone was riding so much slower than what I was used to seeing on a track!! All the students are there to learn, doing the same drills and the majority will be riding at a similar pace. The way I would describe it to anyone wondering is this - if you're comfortable making the bike stop, go and turn, then you're ready to go to the school!
  15. Octane Rating.... What Is It?

    Just coming back to this thread now as I've had some new questions raised after talking with someone who was adamant that all engines should always be fuelled with the highest possible octane rating, that they will always run better with a higher octane fuel. So - is it actually true that a higher octane fuel will "burn slower", or do the additives only change the volatility? Meaning that higher octane fuel is more resistant to pre-ignition, but that once there is spark both low/high octane fuels will ignite just as easily and burn just as quickly?? This also lead me to the subject of carbon deposits - if an engine has minimum requirements of 91 octane and we used 98, will that cause more carbon deposits? From what I have read some people say yes because the higher octane fuel won't have a complete/proper burn - others say it won't make a difference because the 98 will all burn just the same? Any info would be much appreciated! Cheers
×