ducatmh

Maybe your track buddies are trying to slow you down and did, in fact, grease your StompGrip. Are you recovering from an injury that is limiting your fitness? Do you feel like your technique has changed? Do you feel this way when you are fresh or does it seem to happen later in the day? How do your arms/wrists feel.. fatigued after a few laps? If you feel your arms/wrists are getting a workout you may be holding on with your upper body rather than the lower. Make sure you butt isn't too far off to the side or fore/aft, it opens up the angle of the outside leg resulting in a smaller contact patch against the tank. Extend your foot (outside leg) so your knee/thigh drives up into the tank. I don't know that this will help but here are a few refreshers. I hope you are able to "get your lean back" Refer back to drills like: 1) Relax 2) Knee 2 Knee 3) Hip Flick here are a few clips from CSS YouTube Page: Kieth's articles on this forum: http://forums.superbikeschool.com/index.php?showtopic=4241

In this article the timing of the quick flick would depend on 1) Are you braking straight up or 2) Are you intending to trail brake. If you are choosing the first, then all braking is done before the flick. If you are choosing to trail brake, you might still have a little pressure on the lever during the flick but you should already be tapering off. Too much brake while initiating the turn may just push the front past its limit. You should definitely be off the throttle during initiation of the flick. Hopefully that helped a little. BTW... that paragraph you quoted appears to be in reference to why he feels straight-up braking is perhaps a little more advanced than trail braking. Thanks for sharing the article. I enjoyed reading it.

I'll chime in but this is just speculation based off the past 3 years that I have been going. I would guess (I am also counting on) that it will be the weekend of the 11/12th. Historically they don't vary much from year to year so I think it's a relatively safe bet. I would also suspect that they will release their 2017 in the coming 2-3 weeks. They seem to release it shortly after the last class of the season. I'm not certain on the slide bike though I feel like they have had it at LVMS in the past. Dunno if I'm all that helpful!

Yes...... Ready.......? Not drinking enough water! FTW! LOL! Definitely not what I would have come up with, but you may be onto something especially since it's not 'every time' I hit the track.

Quick question regarding low back pain and body position. This seems to be something that I occasionally experience at the track. If it comes on it usually happens a little later in the day after I have run a few sessions and more frequently if I stay out there a full 30 minute session. has anybody made a connection between a particular error that is typically the culprit for this? Hips not rotated correctly, chest not turned into the turn, inside shoulder not low enough, etc...?

I'm now in a similar situation. Considering unloading my 1199S in favor of either a 2016 S1000RR, Yammy R1M or RSV4 RF. I've done quite a few days with CSS and love the latest iteration of the S1000RR. In comparing my 1199 to the S1000RR, I will say that even after 2 days of Code RACE, I am only half as fatigued as one track day on my 1199. The S1000RR is no doubt less demanding and more comfortable as a whole. I would love to have the opportunity to run the 2 bikes on the same track to see if I am faster on the S1000RR, it certainly feels that way. The other two are in the running because they also seem to rank very high amongst the reviewers... that and I love Italian bikes! rchase, I am curious as to all the mods you have done to your Bimmer to help rectify the reported "slower" turn in, difficulty holding a tighter line (comparatively speaking) and "numbness". Do you utilize the Dynamic Damping? DamienC, have you made any headway on your decision? I am curious to hear what you have experienced. My local dealer happens to have an R1 as well as an RSV4 so I plan to go sit on both and take out for a brief ride. Problem is, there is no way I can get either of them on a track for a true test. BTW: Whatever I buy, it will be a track only machine so street comfort is pointless.

Thanks again Hotfoot. I emailed Lara and went ahead and sprung for the N-tecs, if nothing else it will be a learning opportunity for me and a chance to practice some self control on the first couple laps to make sure the edges are nice and warm. Will you be out there?

Thanks for the input. I don't know if it would change your response, I should clarify that I will be on one of the CSS Bimmers. I don't recall seeing anyone running warmers on the school bikes only the guys that brought their own bikes. If I wanted to bring my own warmers, will they even allow that? I suppose I could warm them "Mr. Miyagi" style or maybe just a couple of slower laps.

I will be out at my 2nd Code RACE this coming weekend and really can't wait. I feel like I know the answer to the following question as it pertains to me, but stil curious what others might have to say. The question: Do I stick with the Q3's or opt for the Slicks? On my personal track bike, I run Dunlop N-Tec Slicks with tire warmers with great results and feedback from the tire. Every time I ride at a regular CSS 2-Day Camp, I obviously use the Q3's. The last Code RACE I participated in, I went ahead and stuck with the Q3's. If I recall correctly I was running around a 1:29 (without my time sheet in front of me, I could be wrong). I honestly think I will be able to shave of a few more seconds this time around. The only time I remember the back end getting a little loose is coming off the last corner onto the straight but I believe that corner is a bit bumpy anyway. Any thoughts?

Steven, I don't feel any instability in bumpy turns etc, I think I may have poorly described the weight that I am putting on the seat. It's more of a light contact. My outside leg takes the brunt of the weight and the inside leg much less. Hotfoot, I'll have to grab my copy of Twist II and review chapter 19 real quick. I've read that book sooo many times but always manage to find little morsels that I have forgotten.

I really like the Track Wind Pro Dovizioso suit that they make so I had them do that in a custom size. There are lots of cool combos you can create on their website and order. You can upload logos and such as well. They are made in Italy. Here's a link to their site http://custom.spidi.com Here's an image of what mine should look like. Maybe a little obnoxious, but hey it looks fast so maybe it'll add some HP to my bike and decrease my lap times!

So, I sent the new suit back and custom ordered as KHP and Hotfoot suggested. Should be another 3-4 weeks until arrival. I went with a custom Spidi suit since I had been looking at those for a few years now. I guess I finally had reason to pull the trigger. I'll keep you guys posted on the outcome. it may see its inaugural use at the Code RACE in June.

For me it seems that varying amounts of weight are distributed to different contact points on the bike. The inside part of the outer leg bears some weight as it keeps me from falling too far to the inside. The foot on the inside peg bears enough weight to take some of the stress off the outside leg but not so much that I can't readily pivot as needed. The half of my butt cheek that is on the seat also holds a bit of weight albeit, it doesn't seem like a lot. Next time you have your bike up on the stands lock in your leg and get off of one side or the other to find your optimal position and distribution. Let go with your hands to see how it feels and insure that your arms aren't holding you up. Also, shift fore and aft in the seat to see what impact it has on your lock and comfort. Of course, in a corner, this is all a dynamic and fluid process that will change depending on your speed, the arc of the turn and your lean angle. I'm sure someone can chime in with more useful information.

I've been considering making the swap from my 1199S to either a newer 1299S or the S1000RR. Brand loyalties aside, I am partial to the Bimmer after spending so much time at CSS, but with the 1299S and the new Ohlins Smart EC Suspension and up/down clutchless shifting, the tech gap between the two has been bridged making the playing field appear mostly level. Can anyone help me to better understand the difference between Ducati's new Smart EC system and the S1000RR's DDC? http://www.ducatiusa.com/bikes/superbike/superbike_1299_panigale_s/chassis/ohlins_smart_ec_semi_active_suspension/index.do http://www.bmwmotorcycles.com/us/en/index.html?content=http://www.bmwmotorcycles.com/us/en/bike/sportbikes/2014/s1000rr/s1000rr_overview.html&notrack=1

Barber is definitely on my list. Looks beautiful!! Rchase, you are lucky to have that in your backyard! I won't even show you guys what we have around here but at least we have something to complain about I suppose.

You shouldn't have an issue finding an opening, especially if you are open to most any location. I've been to LVMS, Willow Springs and NJMP. I like all 3 for slightly different reasons. Fun factor though, probably Willow Springs. There are some nice elevation changes with quite a bit of technicality to it. NJMP felt like a faster track so it was fun but not my favorite. I've been to LVMS with them many many times. One of the reasons for this is that it is so easy to get in and out of Vegas without any loooong drives from the airport. The lack of elevation change may be a good thing if you have not been on the track much. You can pretty much see where you need to go almost anywhere on the track. Traveling to/from Willow Springs was a trek from the airport and NJMP was just a little further than LVMS. To sum it up, Willow if you don't mind the inconvenience of driving.

​Awesome. Thanks for all the thought in this replay. My responses are below. OK this helps, thanks for the info. When you are braking, are you low on the bike with your forearms parallel to the ground? Are you able to keep most of your weight off the bars? When braking really hard on a high HP bike like that, it is very difficult to keep ALL the pressure off the bars, but do the best you can. If you sit upright with stiff arms (I know you aren't doing that at 160 mph, I'm just making a point here) and allow your upper body weight to come down on the bars, you add a lot of extra load on the front suspension. So, anything you can do to minimize pressure on the bars helps - good lock-on with lower body, grip hard with knees, use your core muscles to support your upper body, keep your forearms parallel to the ground, and for sure add StompGrip if you don't have it. It also may help slightly to get as far back in the seat as you can in your tuck. I try to keep my weight off the bars, but I know there is room for improvement, coming down from those speeds definitely tenses me up. It was my first time at that track. I felt a little uncomfortable most of the weekend. Soo many turns to learn so I'm sure my stress was higher than normal. What is your braking technique? Describe as best you can how you come on the brakes and how you come off them - do you brake progressively harder and harder all the way to the turn point, or do you come on the brakes really hard then taper off, do you carry the brakes past the turn point to the apex, etc. I tend to get the majority of my braking done earlier and try to taper off. In this turn I was frequently still coming off after tipping it in. I would say that in this turn I did find that I over braked occasionally at the start of the braking zone (more abrupt pull of the lever). This was probably part of the OMFG, I am flying and I need to slow down This may have led to excessive compression of the suspension. Is there a bump, a downhill section, or any other track issue at the point you think you are bottoming out? Example at Auto Club Speedway there is a bump at the bottom of a downhill section at the end of a braking zone. You either have to set your suspension crazy stiff to handle that ONE spot on the track, or you manage it with technique by getting off the brakes and (in that particular case) back on the gas right before the bump to unload the front end and handle it that way. In other words, if the bike feels good everywhere else, you might be better off to manage it by braking more gradually in that spot, or letting off the brakes a bit, or moving your braking zone so you are not hard on the brakes at that point, instead of changing around your suspension. As I read this I started wondering if maybe I am blaming the wrong corner. Turn 11 is at the bottom of a short hill and carrying a decent amount of speed into it. No bumps or anything in 11 or 12. You mentioned it started happening as you got faster... how much faster, and over how long a period? If you got your bike set up a few years ago and were riding in C group and now you are in A group, for example, it is not only reasonable but LIKELY that you need to update your spring rates and valving to match your new pace. A good local suspension guru can usually take your weight, laptime at the local track, and a brief description of your riding style (do you trail brake heavily, are you gentle with the controls or more abrupt, etc.) and make recommendations for spring rate and valving. Suspension was set up last season. When I said I got faster, I meant from day 1 to day 2 at COTA. Maybe somewhere between 5-7 seconds faster. The suspension guy that is usually at COTA for these days was not there. I would have loved to have him check things out for me. As above, I would say I tend to be a little more abrupt on application of brakes but trail off into many turns. I assumed from your description of what has been done to the forks that they have been recently serviced... but if not, that would be step one. It's been recommended to me to service the suspension at least once a year, when racing; if I am putting more than about 6 big-track fast-pace weekends on a bike in a season, I service the suspension in the off season. Less than that on any one bike and I might skip it for that bike that year. Last year was a light year at the track, but still wouldn't hurt to have someone that knows what they are doing help me make any potential changes. Thanks again!

It was happening at the end of the back straight coming down from 160-170 mph for turn12. I'm pretty certain I actually felt it a time or two. I have a zip tie around the tube and it kept getting pushed all the way down. On any other track, I've never had it do that. As far as the settings go, if I recall correctly, we tightened it all the way down and then backed it out from 8 clicks to I believe 12 clicks. I may be off a few. I would say somewhere in the middle if I had to guess. I am running an Ohlins fork with a 30mm cartridge.

Had my 1199 out at COTA a few weeks ago and found that as I got faster, my front end started bottoming out. We tried adding a little preload and rebound with the same results. Bike has been set up to my weight, revalved, resprung, etc. Thoughts? Would you think more suspension tuning or does this have something to do with how I am braking (technique)?

Thanks! I went ahead and ordered a new suit. I figure I can repair the old suit and keep as a spare for when someone wants to try a track day but has "no suit". I lost 20lbs since I bought the A-stars suit so it was fitting a bit loose now anyway. I figured that plus the low side was justification for new leathers. Besides, it's kind of like a new paint job. So to take my own thread just a tad off topic I'll ask a fitment question. Seeing as how my A-stars suit was definitely fitting loose, this new suit looks and feels like it was painted on. Not uncomfortable or anything, just tight and to the point that I need help getting out of it at the moment (with under suit). I suspect it will stretch enough that it won't be a problem for long, but I also find that the sleeves are just a tad short for my loooong arms. About 1.5" to be exact. The gap, however; is covered by the gauntlet of the glove. If I go up a size, the suit will fit too loose but the sleeves would likely fall at the base of palm. Anyone else with long arms/legs that has any thoughts? Sacrifice tightness for length or vice versa?

So I finally experienced a low side this past weekend. T8 at COTA, a guy tried to stuff it in the corner and took me out in the process. I banged my head so I know I need a new helmet but am curious about the leathers. There are no holes worn in them though some of the stretchy material on the inside forearm popped at the seems. 3 or 4 quarter inch spots. Looks like they could be stitched by someone who knows what they are doing. My inclination is to replace them since they are the only thing between me and the tarmac if this ever happens again. Anyone have thoughts on this?

Thanks! I'll look into Ontario.

Anyone have a recommendation for which airport to fly into for Willow Springs? I'll be out there for CODE Race in late October. I would love to avoid any rush hour situations.

@ Stroker.... Here's my 1199 before her inaugural ride. Unfortunately the first day out was a rainy one so I didn't really get to test her out like I hoped.

Correct... the Panigale R (they dropped the 1199 designation to separate from the 2014 1199R) has the 2014 SL engine so it can be raced in WSBK. On another note, one of the many things they did to make the new Flagship more rideable was to adjust the rake from 24.5 to 24. Fortunately for any of you 1199 owners out there you can by a kit directly from Ducati that will let you steepen the rake to 24 as well. You can also purchase a kit from Ducati that will convert your rear swing arm to the adjustable version for about $650. Haven't experienced for myself as of yet, but I here the RapidBike can significantly help with the vague midrange the 1199's suffer from. As for all of the other changes, you're on your own. :-p