Alfred.Rodriguez

Hhhhm... Probably if the throttle input is very good - it wouldnt wiggle! (I guess that is the reason I wiggle a lot when I practice my quick turn in short Ses in parking lots) As per too much - to be honest, that is quite difficult to control (and something that I dont have much confidence in)... A rider could control "how much" by the amount of time the pressure to handle bars is applied. It is NOT straightforward as a car's steering wheel, ie., 60% CCW, etc.

For general purposes, and it near ideal conditions - dry, warmed up tires, etc. a majority of production sports bike on sports radials have a MAX lean of 45-degs; some can push it to 48-deg, but that is risking it... 60-deg and above are usually achievable with slicks (of course, adjustments to the suspension will be required).

You could refer to one of my replies to your thread on Hanging Off - I included a video of Shiga-san, one of Japan's top motogymkhana riders, with his Honda CBR600RR...

I don't believe that Motogymkhana could ever be a substitute for track days, high speed riding, track and street racing and the associated proper couching and schooling; they are very different in essence. As stated before, at those low speeds, the radius of turns and the closest distances between two points is way more important than speed; actually, just a little excessive speed messes up the ideal trajectory. Techniques are also different: just observe how the rider moves her upper body to compensate for braking and acceleration and to help standing up the bike more vigorously, while her butt is kept as aft as possible. These videos make it look easy, but believe, it is extremely hard to make the clock show a decent time after an "attack". The set up of the bikes also differs: very deflated tires, higher handlebars and big rear sprockets (to increase acceleration as high speed is not needed). The sport is very new in UK and is taking baby steps in USA; Japanese riders have been practicing this for more than 15 years; reason for which they are so proficient. Finding a proper place that allows practice is also difficult, at least in USA. I have been kicked out of many empty parking lots by owners concerned about their liability,.............even if nobody is around or I fall on my own. Glad it helped with your question; you are welcome. Yeah - I love Motogymkhana! Actually, being doing it before track riding (and my _first_ track was the CSS 2-Day Camp in Vegas last February).... Here in Japan, I try to get at least one 4-hr practice session per month on it...! In the same track that you see in your video post (of course, not with the same complicated layout)... In regards to your post on it being a substitute for track riding - not it is NOT, rather it complements... Ive known riders that are fast in the track; but terribly slow in low speed manuevers (ie., city riding). Or vice-versa... Basically, IMO, a balanced rider is one that could ride (1) track, (2) gymkhana, and (3) off road.... Nice video of Japanese motorcops: https://vimeo.com/62663278

Not necessarily! When you start out, it will indeed cost you $10.00 of your credit! However, with practice, and indeed in the world of racing (and real life applications, as well) – maybe it will just cost the rider a few cents (also highlighted in the TOTW1 DVD). As per regrouping for the turn – could be, it makes sense when you are just tracking. But in a race, does blowing a corner really make sense? Or in the twisties?Just because your Wide View is so good that you may NOT require hard braking (just before the ABS kicks in), does it mean that I don't need to practice it to the point of making it cheap for me? If you risk a rear tire slip, wouldn't it be good to have this technique in your bag of tricks make sense? Note: I actually had an experience when cornering in the twisties that I down shifted too much, and on a SANDY patch. Instead of risking a tire slip/skid and/or lowslide - I just modulated the clutch to compensate...

Stroker If you are really keen in achieving MAX lean angles and/or hanging off and/or dragging knee - Id recommend starting with smaller bikes, so, you get the feel of things, then progress up the ladder of higher displacements. Much so - less damage/hurt if you make a mistake. Here is one - the Honda APE: http://www.google.co.jp/search?hl=en&gl=US&q=honda+ape&redir_esc=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=yIFTUa7uNcrjkQXA_IHQBQ&biw=602&bih=792&sei=z4FTUdn7LcTilAWN0YGwAg Small, indeed - but mastering it is not a simple task. There are even categories for these bikes in racing. As for how much lean angle can be used, WITHOUT hanging off, check this out: This is a genre of riding called "motogymkhana," quite getting popular in the UK, Japan and some areas in the US. Have fun!!

You could use MAX lean angles wether you HANG OFF the bike or not... Whether you are cornering in 100-mph or just 20-mph. For max lean angle in high speed cornering (while hanging off) - you have track riding. For max lean angle in low speed - Google for "motogymkhana." But as others have said - why would you use MAX LEAN angle? Something to think about - the better rider is one who can take a corner at a higher speed with lesser lean angle... PS: You can actually hang off and drag knee even in a confined space in a parking lot... But what is the point?

It is not part of L1 and L2 (as those are just the levels Ive taken)... Though a short discourse on it is found at the TOTW2 DVD... Pretty much - rev matching with the clutch is not recommended. If you have to do it, do it in the lower range, ie., maybe not more than 2,000. However, in race/track sessions, it is a valuable tool to have in your cabinet of tricks. Say, you are coming in to a corner in high-revs, and you made a wrong shift (your blip was either too strong or too weak, etc.), learning to modulate through the clutch (sometimes open/closing a few mms around the "meet poinyt") is your only recourse to avoid a mishap. Could anyone else chime in on this? On the other hand, knowing how to do brake/blip/shift is nice when you come into the lessons/Levels. There are corners that, when allowed by your coaches to go "full brakes and full gears," FUN to take in...

Hi guys! Sorry for the long hiatus - was busy with work the previous weeks. I did get to (again) try clutchless up-short-shifting; just to make sure I wasnt in my pajamas when I made that previous post... And YES - it is indeed possible. I went 1st to 5th on my 2011 Ninja 1000. Albeit, I have to start off with high revs at first because there wouldnt be any RPMs left by the time I get to the higher gears. All done with a single roll off, a long one at that...

Heree in Tokyo, I take the subway to work. Tomorrow, about 12-hrs, from now, Ill get the chance to take my bike out... Ill see if I can break down the steps. The technique is quite over in a split moment, so, quite difficult to put it into words. Ill let my right hand and left foot feel it out...

Longer roll off the throttle, and just shift _straight_ up to 5th. Albeit, you'd be very low in the revs in 5th compared when you started in 2nd...

As I read TOTW2 book now on my subway commute - Page #71 Turning it too quick will shake the bike or wind you up on the inside.

Hi Cobie Thanks on that... Hence, said - this would be the same as the characteristics for a good line? 1. Follows the TCR 2. Straightens the corner as much as possible 3. Requires only one steering input

Hotfoot Thanks! Yes - indeed better control of my quick turn gives me an additional tool for more effective cornering. As for situations... Hhhmmm... With more control of my Quick Turn, - Require less lean angle for the turn leading to more traction/better drive out of the corner (faster) - More choices on my line, say, during passing manuevers - Better stability - very required when riding in the wet

Based on your posts, I think you are doing it right... But like any skill, it takes time and practice to become proficient and smooth. If it takes but just a few days to master braking and downshifting, most of us should Pros by now... Some pointers, though: - Practice with the higher gears - Brake first (priority is braking NOT the downshift) - Downshift at the lower RPM range (around 3K to 4K) - this reduces the engine braking and makes it easier to do the technique (while you aree still learning), ie., blips... - Do NOT practice with the objective of getting into the higher RPM range and/or the Power Band after the shift - learn the technique first. - Good technique first - smoothness and quickness will come later - Do NOT pull the clutch all the way in (all you require is as far as the "clutch meet point") Have fun!

Similar, but not quite............... I referred to the attached schematics in my post that try to show the problem of early apex leading to running wide and what your solution of moving the turning point aft does. Did you see those? Ah - saw only one diagram... Ooopppssss... Yes, it is quite like that... As I reflect on how Ive taken those turns - quick turn and a deeper angle meant having an early apex in spite of using the school's TP. As I review the TOTW2 book - the solution (which I guess my coach was also trying to say) - use LESS lean angle, hence, a shorter time pressure are applied on the bars.

I did check my briefing notes Cobie, unfortunately, I dont have it written... I may have missed implicitly taking note of it... If I do jog my memory (and understanding): Allows me to follow the TCR Allows to straighten the corner as much as possible (??) Pre-selected exact location on the pavement Hhhmmm... It would be nice if you (or any of the coaches on the Forum) could refresh me on this... As I fill in notes in the flyer/pamphlet - one question I noted was "How to choose a good TP?" In the TOTW2 book, one guideline is indeed presented as it allows the TCR. Thanks!

Similar, but not quite. I am using the suggested TP by CSS (the tape marks on the pavement). However, if I use them I end up with an early apex leading to running wide. Hence, I moved my TP much later in the turn. However, based on the reply from Hotfoot, Im beginning to re-evaluate that decision...

Yeah - I got warned by my coach on that during the 2-Day in Las Vegas... One of the most common reasons for a crash at the school! (Also mentioned in the leaflets given at the end of the day) This was in Turn #13 (CCW), a high speed sweeper! Started to roll on the throttle after the turn in... UNFORTUNATELY, was also ADDING lean angle such that to hit the apex. I was already dragging knee then, essentially, am at the edge of my tires. So, I guess, to rectify that problem was to use start rolling on ONLY when Ive correctly pointed the bike; or have a steering correction by momentarily stopping the roll on... As for the "HOOK TURN," Ive heard that this is taught in L3 - hence know nothing 'bout it. Though was reminded when I again watched TOTW2 DVD - exactly what my coach was doing (when he was leading me on)...

Hhhhmmm... Disadvantages... 1. Uses more lean angle 2. Requires a very slow entry speed 3. Less choices for line changes (if required)? I guess it is balancing act (between the merits and demerits) then - essentially, as I would remember, there are 11 things that are influenced by where we turn!

I dont know how others learn the brake and downshift - but I first practiced with the higher gears. Once I got the hang of it, then I work on the 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 1st. BTW, some other stuff that Ive learned from experience: - During shifts (excluding starting from full stop), you dont need to pull in the clutch lever all the way. Near halfway would suffice to disconnect the engine from the train. - You could also do clutchless downshifts! (recommended to be tried only at low REVs) Cheers! PS: Best not to rush the exercise. As done in CSS, 75% of your ability, and concentrate on one thing at a time...

Now that I finally got the leeway to self-review my participation at the recent 2-Day Camp in Las Vegas... First off, in regards to TURN POINTS vs QUICK TURN - In Turn #11 (CCW), if I use the CSS-marked TP with my quick turn rate, I end up running wide in the turn; hence, need to momentarily pause my throttle roll on. What I did then was to move the TP point later into the corner - hence, able to trace a line following the TCR. However, my coach told me that we are not in the business of moving TPs, and it would be better to practice having better control on my Quick Turn. Essentially, for that Turn #11, I would require (1) lesser pressure on the bars as I do, and (2) lesser time that pressure is applied. It is in my understanding that there are no perfect lines, and TPs are not universal, as well... As such, to compensate for my Quick Turn Rate, shouldnt I be able to adjust my TP? In the interest of "Changing Lines," too, shouldnt I be able to adjust my TP? Are there any negatives to this? Is it recommended? Or not? Any thoughts? Thanks!

Personally, I felt more at ease (relaxed) when riding CSS' bikes... Basically, Id rather drop a rental bike than mine, even if the repair cost is the same! I never would like to hurt my lady...

Let me just add that YES - indeed you should NOT add throttle when adding lean angle! Off the throttle, or just stop the roll-on/roll-off... Wait for the bike to settle at the right lean angle that brings you at the intended line. Then you can resume rolling on the throttle. On the other hand, you could ALSO mess a turn with a SLOW steering rate; which would require more lean angle to complete the turn.

A few minutes with the lean bike would get things in order in regards to BP...