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About jasonbw

  • Rank
    Cornering Master
  • Birthday 09/28/1974

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Wollongong, NSW, Australia
  • Interests
    My wife and kids, coaching, track riding, racing and archery.
    Motto: Life is brilliant, if it's not then make it brilliant.

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  • Have you attended a California Superbike School school?
  1. Cobie, nicely written! What a brilliantly run event, thank you Gina and Victor and the team. Andy, glad you had such an amazing time! Victor, your CBR1000RR is warming up ready for you at Eastern Creek, Australia my friend, ready when you are! JasonBW
  2. Brilliant info here! Klavdy if you're serious about learning to wash speed off effectively (road or track) then read Jasonzillas post a number of times over and over till you have a plan to try on the road.
  3. Excellent stuff Slobdog! Make sure we get to see a picture of your bike after you fit it all up. P.s. Level 4 rocks! So much track time and dedicated staff to work with you!
  4. Good stuff, you've been "armed" then, here's something to try if you want: Try rotating on the bike and using your calf to lock on for a few corners (lower speed and at a safe place like a track), takes an AWEFUL lot of effort.... no wonder the big guys are paid the big bucks to be athletes... they get those legs working for them (they have to, otherwise they couldnt be nice and loose on the bars) but at the cost of extreme physical training regimes. So yep, it sure is possible, but it's just a question of how fit you are and where you focus your fitness.
  5. It's a great and often asked question there Brad! We teach you the method of locking on that is easiest, that is using the outside quad muscles anchored to the tank. You might see Rossi or Lorenzo use this great method, but there there are many others who use a different method that works for them, i.e. Pick a pro rider that might prefer to get his or her butt off the seat more, which leaves their upper body high and a little crossed up, as they've rotated around the tank they can't use the outside quads, so they're using their calf muscles, abductors, heel, butt, elbow etc ANYTHING they can to get the best lock on possible. I.e. Our way isn't the only way, but once you try it at one of our Level 3 schools I'm pretty sure you'll think it's the best way.
  6. Gday James, I wasn't your coach but I got to see you riding around on track with that goldish McDuc numberplate of yours, well done on your riding!!! How do you feel your riding has changed?
  7. McDuc you'll have a huge selection on Monday morning, but I love the line "When in doubt, swap them out"! Mainly because I've seen the damage to person and property that can happen with tyres that are worn. It's a good thing to check not just the tread depth but also the shape of the tyre, i.e. stand above the rear tyre and look straight down, do you see its retained a nice symmetrical shape or do you see a band of wear? e.g. the centre is worn, or a certain angle of the tyre worn... Why is that important? If you have bands of wear then you'll have varying (reduced) sized contact patches as you roll to and past that band of wear... not good for traction even on tyres that have plenty of tread depth. Consider trailering the bike, you can then take the old tyres home with you and you can use them for later road rides to finish them off later. See you there tomorrow, Jason (JB)
  8. Here we go... attached. I spoke too soon re: temperature... right here right now at 6:30pm in the evening its 115deg !
  9. How cool is that to have the legendary sign out your office window!!!!!! Over 100deg F here for the last week, too hot! This weekend us Aussies are heading overseas to New Zealand for a few days, we love that place! then straight back for then next couple of days at Eastern Creek... What a great life we have!!!
  10. Carey, you're gonna love Level 3 then, Cobie and his team will have you working with the bike, it makes an insane difference to nearly everything we do on a motorcycle.
  11. Greg, just a side note, keep in mind when working forks, the individual legs can be on different settings no problem, as once they're bolted together into the triples they work as a single unit. I.e. you can put a .95 spring in one and a .90 spring into the other, even have rebound clicked 6 out on one leg and say, 2 out on another... the spring and rebound in this instance will work as a concatenation of the two settings, like having a 0.925 spring and a rebound setting of 4 out. So if this was the problem, it wouldnt be that the two are different, it's that the two are adding up to an incorrect setting for you on your equipment at your laptime band.
  12. Well done on even noticing that MrSlow! Most only wonder why their leg hurts so much after spirited cornering sessions. You noticed it's not very comfortable having so much weight on the inside peg hey? The ability to get your footpeg weight setup such that it's comfortable depends on a few things, but by and large the most important reason is the ability for you to "lock on" to your motorcycle effectively. As you've not been to the school yet I can't relate you to drills that are relevant (necessary) to get it perfect, but we'll take a stepped approach to see if you can get a little closer to achieving your aim of being comfortable. So with that in mind, bear with me, we'll be talking about holding onto the bike, we'll talk about the bars, the legs, the tank even your butt, but it's all relevant to our end goal OK! In the past on this forum we've spoke of the importance of being relaxed on the bars, do you find when your weight is heavy on the inside peg you might also be holding a little tight on the bars? If we can't hold onto the bike using the bars, what can we hold on with? No doubt you've watch John Wayne at work on his horse in a good western He's plodding along on his horse, holding a thin leather strap in his hands... he isn't holding onto the horse using that leather strap, so what's he holding on with? His legs! Can we do the same on a bike? Hell yes! But we might be making life difficult for ourselves if we try to hold on incorrectly with our legs - this is where being at a school REALLY helps, we can position you such that you can then feel the difference in being locked on, versus not.... and the difference in seating positions might be less than an inch! Consider this, if we want to hold onto the bike using our legs in the turns, we really want the strongest muscle in our legs to be used - otherwise it'll be hard work... which muscle then... the quad's (look them up) they're the puppies to use, idea: Try something with your bike on stands in the garage, get yourself jammed up against the tank and hang your butt far far off the seat, do you feel stable? imagine hitting bumps? Notice you can't let go of the bars without considerable abs, diaphragm and back muscle effort! Not good... also check out how far you can comfortably get your inside knee out, not much! Note how the further off the seat you get, the more you twist away from the turn (in towards the bike).... so where's that leave the heavier half of you? Over the tank - which negates all the weight you've attempted to put low and to the inside of the turn. Added up you can be putting bar inputs in and tensing so many muscles that should be relaxed, using more lean than necessary and potentially going slower due to lean and not feeling stable on the bike! Not good. Now instead of hanging a full butt cheek off just move somewhere between one to three inches to the side when setting up for the corner... basically very little, see if this lets your outside knee (from the knee to halfway towards the groin) come in contact with the tank more as this is where you will be holding on best (the stronger Quad muscles). If all your contact is close to the groin (abductors) then you wont be able to maintain that pressure for long, best to use the quads which are far more powerful. Picture that your outside knee can be rivetted into the tank...to get to that position most people need to move a little back in the seat, not so close to the tank, this is where it's important to refine this with a coach in person, as everyone is an individual ("no I'm not!"), now in that position further back from the tank, is it easier to get the upper body lower? can you easily get your knee way further out than before? Does this position give you more room for your arms and potentially for some... the beer gut? Do you feel more stable should you hit bumps? How about how much lighter you can relax on the bars? easier there? Can you last longer at trackdays doing this? with a more stable bike and less lean or more speed with your knee down earlier (big goal for some)? Most importantly or you, how is your footpeg weight? A bit better? Anyway, this is a really difficult thing to get right via text... best to get this right with a CSS coach on the day, but give yourself a treat and try it out in the garage, you might well be surprised. Most things that help make us go faster are simple changes, which just doesn't seem right considering if they're simple changes then we must be stupid for not knowing to do that before???? i.e. we want things to be harder than they really are.. crazy huh.
  13. Good stuff Greg, keep on testing, if you're 100% that the problem is suspension and not one of those things we do to upset the bike in motion then I'll bow out, there are much wiser suspension techs than I. A good source of suspension is the "independent suspension forum". Made up of a few suspension gurus worldwide.
  14. Cool stuff, just to be sure of the suggestion, OEM being the actual original equipment, true Honda stuff... So call up local bike shops or even better, drop into their service departments and ask if they have scratched up panels, usually they have stacks hanging around the rafters... if you speak to the right person high up enough in the chain of command (or low enough) you can grab a few panels for the price of a few beers on a Friday afternoon
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