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Apollo

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Posts posted by Apollo


  1. Thanks, Jaybird.  I appreciate the thoughtful reply.  I think my issue/question is different from the baseline ergonomics.  My handlebar setup does follow the usual recommendations, and the angle and reach are fine. And my issue is not necessarily braking comfort. 

    I do agree that Dylan's wrist angle video is relevant to my issue.  Part of why I "overgrip" is to get that flat wrist angle when I am at full throttle.  If I merely screwdriver with my hand set rotation wise where it is during braking, I end up rotating past flat wrist as I reach the limit of "screwdriver ability" before full throttle.  This is on a stock throttle R6, so no quick turn throttle.  The brake lever is adjusted as far as it will go without hitting the front stay.  Now, maybe a quick turn throttle is a bandaid, but I feel like there is potentially more to this issue as there are many faster riders without quick turn throttles

    From what I can see on onboarding footage from Scott Redding and other riders, they are similarly "overgripping" when they transition to the gas after they release the brakes.  That is, they are  also gripping with their hand rotated forward more than when braking.  With this method, I can get a good wrist angle and body position while on the throttle.  But, the issue is that due to the overgrip, when rolling off the throttle, the hand would roll past the braking position to fully close the throttle.  So far, I have been partially letting the throttle slide in my hand to get both the throttle fully closed and my hand rotated to the braking position.  

    So I guess my questions are more:

    Is anyone "overgripping" on transitioning back to the throttle after brakes?  Or are my eyes playing tricks on me when watching MotoGP riders transition?  

    And if overgripping, what technique are riders using to let the throttle fully close while getting the hand to the braking position? Because the throttle has to rotate more between close and full than the hand between braking and overgrip full.

     


  2. Thread revival here.  So I have recently been running into a mental conundrum with the screwdriver hand, so I thought to bring it back to the forum.  Admittedly, it has been quite a while since I did the level with screwdriver hand and I have not brought it up in L4 yet.  My issue concerns when regripping or how resetting the hand for braking works.

    So the concept of holding the bar like a screwdriver on the inside bar seems clear from a fundamentals perspective.  However, in application, I find that the only way I can really set my hand in the screwdriver position is to "overgrip," which is to say that I roll my inside hand forward over the bar more than a straight hold.  If I try to just switch to a screwdriver hand at the same position on the bar as a straight hold, I feel like I bind up and am restricted by my wrist movement from getting the hook turn drop.  From watching on-boards of Scott Redding, this overgrip seems to be what he is doing also. Left handers aren't an issue. In right handers, this works fine on corner exits as I can get to full throttle while keeping my wrist in the middle of its range of motion.  

    My issue is in braking for the next corner after being at wide open throttle.  With the overgrip, if I just roll off while having 100% grip on the throttle, I would end up with the throttle still applied when my hand rotates forward to the "braking position."  It would seem that there is some degree of releasing the throttle slightly so that it slips and rotates more than the throttle hand rotates.  So far, I have been experimenting with this where I am 100% grip rolling off for the first 3/4th of the roll off and then letting the throttle slide inside my grip before 100% gripping again to fully close.  I can't quite make out what Scott Redding is doing from his youtube videos, and there doesn't seem to be much posting on this. 

    How are you all doing this?

     

     

     

     

     


  3. On 7/18/2019 at 9:28 PM, gianco said:

    i feel in strong contact with bike,

    i could leave the handlebar.......

    except in that moment when i feel push on external handlebar

     

    and that happen on my max lean

     

    i'm feeling like i 'm trying to lean off excessively with bike leaning way less.

     

    One thing to try may be remind yourself mid-corner to relax the outside hand on the external handlebar.  Maybe something as simple as opening your hand slightly more than your normal grip.  This can be a reminder to not push, or at least it will draw attention to your outside hand and make you recognize when you are pushing.

    • Thanks 1

  4. 1 hour ago, Cobie Fair said:

    3A, off camber slippery turn that then crests and goes down hill, on a cold morning that was damp...after sitting too long on the grid--everything against you on that one.

    Have you done the school and taken the class that has the Pick Up technique?  It was in Level 2 for a long time, now in Level 3 (we have a braking exercise in L-2 in that spot now).

    CF

    Yep, I'm a repeat level 4 offender.  I recall the pick-up drill and we did the slide bike last year at Streets regarding pick-up and throttle.  However, all of the front end tucks in cold/damp conditions have been corner entry, pre-apex, off trail braking already, either no throttle or just barely cracked (not even at maintenance throttle yet) rather than a corner exit issue.   By crest in 3A, I mean the slight crest or transition from uphill to flattening out on corner entry as we make the run up from 3.

    I do know from photos that I'm still not dropping my upper body enough for hook-turn, and am kind of riding Colin Edwards head high (photos below for reference of my current positioning mid-corner).  This issue of getting a lower and off to the side body position has been something I have been trying to work on, to help out the tires a bit more.  However, in the case of the front end tucks, I'm right around where I would be implementing the hook-turn drop anyways when I lost the front so I'm not even sure that would have helped. 

    At least so far in my mind, it seems to be a calibration issue between my perception of how much flex the front tire is giving and how much I can actually increase my entry speeds lap over lap when warming up a cold tire?  Maybe not?  At the same time, I was probably mentally pushing in places and times I shouldn't (esp after sitting on pregrid) because I see the front runner expert club racers are able to turn faster laps in the same track conditions. 

    Thanks,

    Allard

     

    P.S. All this just suddenly brought back a flashback to some time pre-2010 with the school at Sonoma when Karel Abraham passed three of us setting up for the chicane 3/4 no brakes and a coach lowsided on entry right in front of us while trying to stay on his tail. 

     

    duDPVWFm.jpg

    AAkFiSim.jpg


  5. I think watching racing is helpful for technique related issues.  Especially nowadays with on-board telemetry, it is insightful to see how top level riders are trail braking and transitioning to the gas.  Scott Redding actually has some fabulous on-boards and discussion of his braking technique on his Youtube channel.

    I think seeing the different body positions (feet, hands, etc) is very insightful.  It's easy for anyone at a track day to tell you what they think; it is entirely different when you can see the positioning of the top level riders.

    I don't think there is necessarily a negative with watching TV.  I find that watching helps me better evaluate cornerspeed (same with reviewing on-board footage from my bike) while removing the "speed sensation" in real life. Often, watching on-boards "slows down" the corner in my mind and helps with identifying reference points.  

    Less useful, at least at this point, is watching professional racers' corner entry and mid-corner technique when it comes to backing it in or using the rear brake.  I'm of the mindset of focusing on the front brake and working to improve that.  However, maybe there is something to be said about early training of using both front and rear.  Even in club racing now, fast experts are modulating the rear either by foot or by a hand lever.  Maybe not using it early on is like waiting too long to learn a foreign language.  But at least for now, I'm finding that stuff to be more entertaining and less informative.  

     


  6. Fear of leaning too far can be one factor for keeping pressure on the handlebars.  Part of it may simply be reminding yourself not to have pressure.  Another bigger thing may be addressing why you feel fear.  Maybe it is a visual issue with looking far enough down the track.

     

    Also, are you supporting your body weight through holding the handlebars?  This may also cause the tense arms if you are trying to hold yourself up by gripping the handlebar.  Fixing this requires improving your lower body contact with the motorcycle.  This might be addressed by looking at how you use your outside knee to contact the tank.  If you were to give a percentage (%), how secure does your outside knee to tank contact feel when cornering?

     

    P.S. It's a bit of a trek, but not too far to consider checking out the UK operations of the school to have a coach work in-person on these issues.  Often, an external set of eyes can identify issues that you're unaware of.

     


  7. On 7/15/2019 at 4:53 PM, Cobie Fair said:

    Hi Apollo,

    We have some good threads on tires, but I'll take a quick swing at this:

    The goal is to discover traction, not assume it--I'm not of the opinion that one should just "trust" the tires--find out how good they are working!  This is harder to do on the front, easier to do on the rear.  If the morning is cool/cold, (and let's assume no tire warmers) then you have to put heat in the tires, which builds from flexing the carcass, so heat comes from the inside out.  So start easy, gradually increase the pace.  Straight line accel and braking help a little to flex the carcass, but still needs both sides warmed, which is achieved by cornering and putting them on a load, gradually increasing that load.  On a modern Dunlop slick, this can take 3 laps on even just a cool day, maybe more on a cold day, or very first ride.  On some very cold days, they won't ever get to temp.

    If you have a good lock on the bike with the lower body (arms are not being used to support the body), the front will feel like it's a bowling ball, stiff and slippery, not "hooked up" at all.  As it warms, you will feel more resistance, it's "biting" more and will track a tighter line once turned in.

    This is a super short comment, we have a lot of good data up here on tires, and cold tires too.  Let me know if this helps, or you need any assistance finding more info.

    Best,

    Cobie

     

    Thanks, Cobie.  I don't mean to hijack this thread away from the Street oriented polling.  I have read some of the tire threads as they have popped up over the years here.


    In general, I can feel the super cold "bowling ball" and the hot "biting" feeling.  It is the in-between warm up feel that is problematic for me because I am trying to find a pace that adequately warms the tire carcass rather than allowing it to continue cooling.  On the street, I ride with a large safety margin, so I have not run into the tire warm up issue on the street.  With my margin of error for road conditions, I still wind up with a warm tire by the end of a ride.  My issue rears its head when I'm trying to get closer to maximum traction in the 6 or 7 laps for a given track session.  Sometimes, I'm not sure what is a mental block of not wanting to crash the bike and what is actually front end feedback.  With hot "biting" tires, I have felt small front end slides and slightly spinning up the rear on track on my old Ninja 300 (now I'm on an R6).  Similarly, I have felt these while playing in the dirt at Cornerspin and Rich Oliver.  


    But having an honest assessment of the in-between warming up state and how far I can push has been a problem.  For example, my last crash was a cold morning at Sonoma/Sears Point with a trackday org.  It was high-40sF out with some light lingering fog coverage.  I came off warmers early (Pirelli Superbike slicks) to link with a coach to see their lines.  We ended up sitting on the pre-grid for a while where my tires were cooling.  As it was our first time riding together and due to the weather, the coach took it extra slow (let's ballpark 30 seconds a lap off hot pace) as we rode in traffic for 2 laps.  Then, we slowly started moving the pace up, but we were still crawling.  I was trying to mind my tires, and increasing the pace and load bit by bit to get them heating up rather than continue cooling.  I thought I had a sizeable safety margin (probably still 15 seconds off hot pace, running a lot less lean angle) while leading when I came over the crest in 3A and the front tucked without any discernable warning over the crest.  So clearly, I did not have the safety margin I thought I had.


    Part of my feedback issue may also be mental due to not having a feel for the bike.  At the time of the crash, the bike never felt like it tracked as tight a line as my 300.  I thought it might be mental since the R6 is a heftier bike to transition.  However, since then, I discussed it with Dave Moss and we got the bike tracking a lot better by playing with both suspension settings and geometry by raising the rear.  Maybe I would have had a better feel for impending doom if I was comparing "tracking true against tracking wide" versus "tracking wide against tracking slightly wider."  The front end just feels a lot easier to discern and risk when I'm on a quarter of the weight dirt bike with a hotshoe on versus an expensive to repair 400lb R6.  Of my lifetime 5 crashes on track, 3 were slow but not slow enough first session front end tucks in cold/damp/light rain at Sonoma and VIR.  


    Not sure if these thoughts of mine spur additional concerns to you with my riding, or specific thoughts/info for further reading.  Haha. 
     


  8. On 7/1/2019 at 5:14 PM, Cobie Fair said:

    OK pollsters, here is another look at this area, and question for you (and any others that have not chimed in) this could be considered the same question (or similar), but going to ask anyway:

    What single skill would you most like to improve in your own riding? 

    CF 

    Same as PittsDriver, front end feel.  I have ridden dirt bikes in an attempt to improve this, but it is still the most difficult issue for me to improve.  On a dirt bike, I have ridden trails with a deflating front tire and kept it upright while believing the trail was slippery.  However, on the track, I have lowsided three times over the years in cold morning sessions where I did not feel like I was pushing (maybe riding at 60%) and did not feel like I had any significant warning before the bars went light.  Those occasional moments of lowsiding and the subsequent repair bills end up dialing back my trust in the front end until I get a perfect weather day and just commit to trusting that the front will stick.  My current approach has been to become more of a fair weather rider and sitting out the first session if the track is cold.  But that's really just avoiding the problem.


  9. There are several different foot positions that you will see with some famous, fast riders.  As Cobie said, comfort is different for everyone and the biggest issue with your foot being on the end of the footpeg is reduced ground clearance.  One question is whether your toes touch the ground when you ride.  This can especially happen on standard bikes, some of which have lower footpegs.  If so, you may want to have your foot closer to the motorcycle.  

    Personally, I ride with my foot parallel to the motorcycle.  I tilt, or cant, my foot to the side so that the outside edge of my foot rests on the footpeg and the inside edge of my foot rests on the vertical rearset bracket.  Looking from the rear of the motorcycle, the bottom of my foot, the footpeg, and the rearset bracket form a triangle.  This was after discussion with Dylan about my lower body position and sometimes touching my toes.  With this method, my foot stays close to the motorcycle, preserving lean angle, and I actually get my knee farther out than when my foot is angled like your photos.  

    You can see this style with some riders, like Casey Stoner (below) and Marc Marquez.  At the same time, some other riders, like Troy Bayliss, prefer to have their foot angled 45 degrees from the bike, like your second photo.  

    Regarding your knee aching, are you applying a lot of pressure on your inside foot?  I have found that if I am able to support my body by anchoring my outside leg with the motorcycle (locking with the tank), my inside foot does not tire and ache as quickly.  

     

    Image result for casey stoner rear

     


  10. Ranked.  I think visual skills and quick reflexes are the most important for street riding.  Riders need to be able to absorb and react to information from the road in order to avoid hazards.  Quick reflexes are important, especially with regards to braking and steering inputs.  I don't cover the brakes on track, but I definitely do on the street.


    1. Visual skill, lack of target fixation
    2. Quick reflexes
    3. Ability to steer quickly
    4. Physical condition, strength
    5. Brave

     

     

     

    • Like 1

  11. You really can't go wrong with any of the tracks that CSS goes to.  However, I would give the slight edge to Barber, VIR, and Laguna if you're making a big trip out of it. 

    If you're open to the entire country, I would probably vote for Barber.  It would be a heck of a long trip, and I would definitely recommend using the school's BMWs.  Barber has a fantastic track and the museum is incredible.  The museum is definitely a must-see.  

    VIR flows incredibly well and has fun elevation changes.  You would be running the North course.  Beyond the track, VIR has great amenities.  You can rent a room overlooking the front straight or stay at the inn, and it has a restaurant on site. 

    Laguna is a legendary track, but the amenities definitely are lacking compared to Barber and VIR.  However, Monterey as a whole does make up for the extra frills that the track lacks.  Also, do not worry about the straight.  It is plenty long enough to scare yourself, especially if it your first time on track.  On that note, even though VIR may seem like it has a long front straight, it definitely has a strong kink at speed.  Although I would vote for Barber first, I will also say that Laguna days are harder and harder to come by.  To that extent, you might want to do Laguna Seca sooner than later before the ridiculous neighbors finally make the track costs astronomical.  (I fear that day will happen in the not too distant future).

    You really can't go wrong with any of them. 

    But really consider renting their bikes.  *knock on wood* The biggest issue I have with riding to the track is what happens if you crash.  Odds are, the motorcycle will sustain damage and require repairs.  Additionally, there is always the risk of bodily injury preventing riding home even if the bike is fine.  If you have contingency plans ready, then that's one thing.  I always prefer to drive or fly-in.  

    • Like 1

  12. 5 hours ago, Vic said:

    Thanks for the feedback.  To be honest I had never really considered an airbag system as I would only planning a handful of trackdays initially and road riding - although plenty of scope for hitting something immovable there.

    I didn't intend to sound negative against Dainese and certainly have no aversion to them - apologies if it came across that way.  What I meant was rather than go for an entry-level set-up, and then upgrade is it better to jump in and get quality, top-drawer gear from the get-go (feel I answered my own question there!)  I agree with you on brand identity and I am sure you are  paying extra for the name which is why I was inquiring about Rev'it.  

    Always keen to avoid a collarbone break regardless.  Going to check out some airbag kit...

    Cheers!

    The biggest thing with collarbones isn't necessarily hitting some random object.  Breaks can happen because of landing helmet first because the helmet then cants to the side and jams into your collarbone.  The airbag kits mitigate this risk by providing extra cushioning between the helmet and the collarbone.  Although the airbag kits were originally one-piece suit only, both Alpinestars and Dainese now have them available in jacket/two-piece suits for more convenient street riding gear.

    I am personally a fan of buying the gear that makes you feel safest and comfortable.  I don't think the higher end gear necessarily crashes better, but the higher priced kit does tend to have more supple or luxurious feeling leather.  You might feel some extra mobility due to the supple leather, but a well fitted, cheaper suit may do the same job.  Personally, all of the high end brands anecdotally have sufficient protection and quality.  If you stay with the major brands like Rev'it, Held, Spidi, RS Taichi, Dainese, Alpinestars, etc, you'll be in the ballpark. 

    If you want a sensor deployed airbag kit though, Alpinestars and Dainese are really the only players.  Mithos and RS Taichi have licensed the Alpinestars airbag, but they only offer it in their one-piece suits.  Rev'it has the Dainese airbag, but again it isn't available unless you're a world level professional. 

     


  13. 1 hour ago, Hotfoot said:

    Anybody wearing the Alpinestars Missile suit and airbag have any feedback on that system? I see they FINALLY announced a woman's version of the Tech-Air compatible suit. I'm giving that a serious look, seems like broken collarbones are a pretty common racing injury and I would prefer to keep mine intact. I had been looking at the Hit Air vests but didn't want to have to mess around with putting it over the leathers right before a race, or with the tether - seems like it would be too easy to forget to unclip yourself!

    BTW, does anyone know if Alpinestars has a showroom in SO CA that might have the women's suits in stock to try on? I'm not really sure of my size as I have been wearing custom suits, plus I wonder if the vest and back protector affect the size and fit of the suit.

    I haven't tried the Missile suit, but the TechAir airbag vest has more coverage than any of the Dainese Misano (mostly collarbone), Misano 2D (extends over upper chest), and Mugello (includes side airbag).  Supposedly, the same size works, but I think you'll probably want to go up one size in the suit as the vest is fairly bulky.  All of the electronics are packaged in a hard shell back protector for the vest that is maybe almost double the thickness of my regular L2 back protector.  The biggest issue with the TechAir is that it's a bit cumbersome if you like to walk around off-track with the top half of your leathers hanging loose because the rigid back protector keeps the shape of the upper half.

    In SoCal, Beach Moto is a TechAir distributor and might be your best bet of having the woman's version in stock.  Alternatively, you can always order from Cycle Gear and just return in store for free.

    I also have the Hit-Air and it is a good option.  I still think either of the TechAir or D-Air is a better option though since they are independent of the bike.  The Hit-Air takes about 60 pounds of force to set off, so you just get tugged backwards if you get off the bike without unclipping.  It is an extra hassle though to have to put it on, clip, and unclip each time.  If you're hopping between bikes, setting up the tether each time is also an additional step.

    • Like 1

  14. On 3/11/2019 at 6:12 AM, Vic said:

    Does anyone have any info / input on Rev'it?  As mentioned in here, fit is vital and I recently tried them on and found they fitted well.  I've also had issues with Alpinestars being far too saggy in the torso once they fit shoulders/arms. 

    With regards to Dainese, I have heard good things about them but I assume it is better to go with the best gear one can afford as it's cheaper in the long run? 

     

    Rev'it is quality gear on the higher end of the spectrum.  However, as far as I know, they do not offer an airbag option.  For professional racers, they have been using the Dainese D-Air system but it is not available commercially for every day riders.   

    What do you mean by "best gear one can afford?"  It seems like you have some aversion to Dainese or think that they're on the cheap end of things.  If anything, they tend to be a bit expensive and overpriced due to their marketing and brand identity in my opinion.  

    If you are looking for the best gear you can afford, I think you should definitely look at an airbag suit or jacket/pants combo.  The increased protection against a collarbone break is worth the savings in medical bills.

     


  15. 18 hours ago, Hotfoot said:

    Oh yes, if you were riding the Ninja 300 you will definitely feel a lot of difference; I rode a Ninja 400 recently and I was amazed by how much it wanted to decelerate when I let off the gas - and I discovered that my roll-offs were NOT as smooth as I though they were (see Throttle Control rule #2)!

    On the S1000s you can adjust the engine braking amount; after switching from another bike to my S1000rr where it is set very low it takes some getting used to, since I feel like I am free-wheeling into the corners, but it is a good learning experience as it makes me pay a lot of attention to my entry speeds. Personally, less engine braking helped me bring up my entry speeds (not always entirely on purpose!), and since I like the suspension set very soft in the front it minimizes (as Dylan said) the bike pitching forward when I roll off on flowing corners. I had trouble with the Ninja on that point, it would decelerate so rapidly on engine braking that it would compress the front. If nothing else the change to less engine braking may break some habits on entry speed and roll off points and force you to take a new look at judging the approach to higher speed corners.

    Thanks, Hotfoot.  Definitely thoughts to think about. 

    My 300 suspension was also really soft just due to it being entirely stock.  I just couldn't justify dumping money into it versus saving for another bike (R6).  It's actually pretty funny to see photos from my last race, where my bike is noticeably a bit lower with a nose up attitude compared to others with worked over suspensions.  

    In normal riding conditions,  I doubt there will really be major issues since brakes are for braking.  I am mostly intrigued to see how I fair on this thing in the morning 3/4, no brakes drills this weekend while cornerworking for CSS.  Mainly, my concern (as also discussed with Spaghetti below) was wanting to know how much of this engine braking issue is a mental barrier/technique issue I need to adjust to.  There are some moments where I feel like the engine braking is useful.  Like I've had it happen where I'm in a corner, closing up fairly quickly but safely on another rider, and transitioning from trail braking to throttle application for the drive out.  I've had the rider in front get spooked by something and roll out of the gas post-apex, sometimes being a bit unclear on their intentions.  With stock engine braking on my other bikes, I can just easily roll off a touch to keep the gap without worrying about having to get on the brakes again or making a pass while guessing if they're going to take some weird line on the drive out.

    But maybe this is really also an issue of Wide View and passing drills to go for a safe pass instead of checking up behind another rider.  

     

    1 hour ago, Spaghetti said:

    Also an AMA bike has more braking power than a stock bike. The instinct coming from street riding is to rely on engine braking, but once you get used to steel lines and a racing quality master it will come more natural to control speed by focusing on the brake lever pressure.

    I guess it just made me a bit nervous to give up the engine braking, so I wanted some confirmation from you all here.  It's not an issue of relying on the engine braking.  I'm definitely not coasting into corners.  It is just there are some moments where I feel like the engine braking is useful.  Like I've had it happen where I'm in a corner, closing up fairly quickly but safely on another rider, and transitioning from trail braking to throttle application.  I've had the rider in front get spooked by something and roll out of the gas post-apex, sometimes being a bit unclear on their intentions.  With stock engine braking, I can just easily roll off a touch to keep the gap without worrying about having to get on the brakes again or making a pass while guessing if they're going to take some weird line on the drive out. 


  16. Thanks for the info on the GP riders, Dylan.  I appreciate the knowledge drop, and it will definitely be something to consider in terms of adjustments based on track layouts.

    Since I will mostly be riding at Thunderhill East, Sonoma, Buttonwillow, and Vegas this year, I guess I am leaning towards less engine braking to a degree, as they all have flowing sections.  I will definitely have to spend a trackday just fiddling with the engine braking settings over back to back sessions to gauge the differences.  

    This is a lot more complicated than my stock, non-adjustable suspension, single fuel map power commander Ninja 300.  Haha.  

    See you at Vegas this weekend.

     

     

     


  17. This is more of a tech question, but it segues into technique.  So I upgraded this year to a 2011 R6 with a YEC kit ECU.  The bike was previously run by a current AMA rider and set at least one lap record, so the bike is not an issue.  Also, for background, I've been almost exclusively riding mostly stock twin-cylinder bikes for the past four years. 

    The R6 ECU is set to a heavily reduced engine braking setting.  Compared to my twins, roll-off engine braking feels pretty near minimal and gives almost a freewheeling sensation.  In searching around, there seems to be a school of thought among a lot of fast riders that minimal engine braking in the ECU is preferable for smoother roll-offs and less speed loss on the way to the apex.  

    The underlying question for me is, should I just keep the setting as used by known fast guys, and learn to ride it "the way it should be?"  Or is it something that should be adjusted to by resetting and incrementally reducing the engine braking setting?  Or is it really just a feel issue dependent on the rider rather than an "all fast guys at the front do this?"

     

     


  18. Since this got bumped, I'll add in some new thoughts for anyone looking into it.  The biggest issue, as with all moto gear, is always fit.  Personally, Alpinestars just doesn't fit me.  It's either too tight in the legs or too loose in the shoulders.  Dainese's cuts just fit me perfectly.

    I have had a Dainese Laguna Seca suit for 10 years.  It has been in two lowsides in the rain and a solid tumble with multiple revolutions.  It was only after the third crash that I finally needed to have repairs done because the leather on the shoulder wore through (the stitching in the surrounding area was still fine).  

    Probably the biggest reason to go either Alpinestars or Dainese over other fantastic brands (RS-Taichi, Held, customs) are the Tech-Air and D-Air.

    Tech-Air

    You can get a lot more coverage with the Alpinestars TechAir setup than the entry level D-Air suit at around $2000.  Even the Dainese Mugello at $4000 doesn't have the same airbag coverage.  Also, Alpinestars TechAir can be used twice before a repack, whereas the Dainese can only have one deployment.  The separation of the vest and suit also means that you can just send in the vest for repacking and still use the suit with conventional armor.  However, you have to buy the Tech-Air vest for $1150 and then buy a suit to fit it in. Also, the Tech-Air has a solid, non-flexible back piece doubling as a back protector and electronics housing that makes it feel bulky and pretty awkward if you're used to having the top half of your leathers hanging when you're in the pits.  

    D-Air

    D-Air is a different beast as it is fully integrated with the individual suit, and comes in a variety of configurations with different levels of protection.  The first generation Misano has the least coverage and is primarily focused on protecting the collarbone.  The second gen. Misano 2D will have more coverage around the collarbone area.  The Mugello has even more coverage extending over the upper chest, but still does not provide the same level of coverage as the Tech-Air.  However, the D-Air does include a GPS sensor in aiding determining when deployment occurs.  Whether or not Alpinestars doesn't have one due to patent reasons or if they just don't think it is important is only known to them.  The upside of D-Air is the suit definitely feels more natural than an Alpinestars suit with the Tech-Air vest.  The downside is you can only deploy it once and then the entire suit has to go back to Dainese.  

     

     


  19. On 2/19/2019 at 5:57 PM, Jaybird180 said:

    Preparing for the day, I went online last week and renewed the registration sticker and verified my insurance policy’s coverage status: FULL COVERAGE. I’ve got a lot going on with 9 motorcycles and 4 riders in my household - it’s too much to keep it all in my head. Life and maintenance was simpler with one bike and one rider. Knowing that I purposely over-inflated the tires while garaged, I pressurized the pump and readjusted the tire pressures on the Q3+ to 34F/36R Thursday night.

    Glad to hear you're alright, Jaybird!  That's the most important thing.  And props to you for getting back on the bike the same day.  

    One thing though, and maybe someone else will disagree with better info, but those pressures 34/36 seem very high to me.  A high pressure like 36 would result in a stiffer tire, which might have contributed to lower traction by reducing the contact patch.  Dunlops in general feel like they have a stiffer carcass to me, and I was running substantially lower pressures for grip.  Race Tire Services, which is the US Dunlop race tires distributor, suggests 28 cold or 32 hot on the Q3+ rear.  I was running Q3+ on my trackbike at 30 hot on the rear.  I even ran the older Alpha13 rear at 26-28 hot because it was sliding at 30 hot on a barely moderate pace so I can't even imagine how that would have felt at 36 cold. 

    To get heat in the tire on a cold day, you can either go up or down in pressure from your norm.  At least that is what suspension gurus say.  I always go down, and just pay for the accelerated wear.  I used to ride in DC when it was 30-40 degrees on Pirelli Diablo Rosso IIs set at about 26psi cold. 

    Again, most important thing is that you are safe and sound. 

     


    • Quote

       

      • New Members Area
      • Articles by Keith
      • School Questions
      • Cornering and Techniques
      • Tires, Tuning, Suspension
      • Riding Gear and Equipment
      • Racing

       

    In terms of traffic, maybe it would help simplify things by combining school questions and cornering/techniques, since the school is focused on technique and discussion of technique would probably relate back to school drills anyways. 

    It might be useful to separate out club racing (by students) versus discussion of professional racing.  In that regard, a General or Miscellaneous category may include the professional racing threads.  Discussion in the pro racing threads would keep the general category active.  Students who are racing might find a student racing category to be useful to isolate racing specific threads.  Or maybe just all racing, student and professional, should be in the general category.

    Gear related questions seem fairly few and far between, so maybe it could also fit into the General/Misc category instead of having its own category

    So maybe:

    • New Members Area
    • Articles by Keith
    • School Questions / Cornering and Techniques
    • Tires, Tuning, Suspension
    • Student Racing
    • General/Kitchen Sink/Everything Else

     


  20. On 2/12/2019 at 4:22 PM, Cobie Fair said:

    Francesco B., winning eh?  I'll like to see that.

    Is there any MotoGP on TV these days?  I changed subscribers, and found out they had dropped BEIN Sports...I was not happy.

    Is it anywhere else?

     

    I think the bein deal is till 2021 and exclusive. 

    I have the MotoGP subscription from MotoGP/Dorna and watch it on my TV through my laptop and an HDMI cable.  The upside of the subscription is you get to watch it whenever you want and it includes some cool things, like Honda's documentary From Cervera to Tokyo and random interviews. Chromecast is another option instead of an HDMI cable.

     

     

     


  21. I think it will likely be Marquez.  According to some of the journalists, the Honda is even faster this year while being less taxing on the front tire.  

    I'd really like Dovi to win one though.  He has got the commitment and hardwork angle of it down.  If he can bring it home in the points every race, maybe he can mount a real challenge this year.  Plus, unless it's mindgames, I like that he is taking Petrux under his wing and helping him out, especially as Ducati has seemingly broadcasted that Petrux is on a one year contract and likely to lose his factory ride to one of the Pramac guys.  

    My three predictions though:

    Marquez wins the most races of anyone.

    Vinales wins before Rossi does.

    Francesco Bagnaia wins a race and rookie of the year.

     

     

     

     


  22. Anyone else here signed up for Streets on March 18?  It'll be my first time at Streets since 2010.  

    I'm currently signed up for March 18th and waitlisted for March 17th.  I was originally hoping to ride my own bike (Ninja 300) on the 17th and then do the school BMW on the 18th, but we'll see if/what opens up for the 17th.

    If I am only there for Sunday, I might just car camp at the track on Saturday night.  FYI for anyone else, I learned that WSIR does not have shower facilities.

     

     

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