faffi Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 When I fitted longer, harder shock absorbers to my VT500FT Ascot (some may be old enough to remember), it became just as you described when dropping the front on your SV. The rear was raised about 40 mm under load, so it was quite a bit. Once I raised the front a similar amount with stiffer springs and more oil, it became its old neutral self again. I also did a very poor and ugly attempt at making an old XL500S into a pure street machine. I fitted an 18" rim instead of the stock 23" thingo. The rear was retained at 18". I fitted road type tyres; BT45s in 100/90 front and 110/90 rear. Furthermore, shocks somewhat shorter and stiffer were fitted. It didn't look too good, as mentioned, and although the smaller front wheel should compensate for the drop in rear height (at least), the bike still rode with its front too high for my taste. However, having experiemented with moving the front end through a full 3 inches (by raising the legs in the triple clamps) I found virtually no influence on how the bike handled. I'm anxious to hear how sensitive (or not) your KLR is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faffi Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 MOTORRAD explained why a bike will try to go straight when the brakes are applied midcorner like this: "Uprighting momentum" comes from the contact patch moving sideways from the tyre's centre line, creating a lever effect. Together with the brake force, this lever will twist the wheel inwards, a phenomenom we tyipcally refer to as counter steering. The result is a bike righting itself unless the rider counters with an equal amount of force. Generally speaking, the wider the tyre, the bigger the righting force. With the brakes on, the testers measured up to 250Nm twisting force at 12 degrees lean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobie Fair Posted April 8, 2010 Report Share Posted April 8, 2010 MOTORRAD explained why a bike will try to go straight when the brakes are applied midcorner like this: "Uprighting momentum" comes from the contact patch moving sideways from the tyre's centre line, creating a lever effect. Together with the brake force, this lever will twist the wheel inwards, a phenomenom we tyipcally refer to as counter steering. The result is a bike righting itself unless the rider counters with an equal amount of force. Generally speaking, the wider the tyre, the bigger the righting force. With the brakes on, the testers measured up to 250Nm twisting force at 12 degrees lean. Interesting that it was measured, cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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