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16 Rr Race Prep


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So I've done a little searching but can't quite find the answers I was hoping to.


Recent new owner of '16 RR. Looking to prep it this off season. Most of the bolt ons no problem, my questions come in about electronics, which now includes suspension. Unfortunately, I know no one who races one of these, so if there isn't anyone here who can answer, any pointing in the right direction (towards an RR guru) would be enormously appreciated.


Some say throw a spring in the fork and go race it. Other say stick with the expensive stuff. (ohlins cartridges, etc) Then what happens to the electronics...? How to disable..


I've heard of people sending ECU's to Germany (where?) to be flashed. Is it THAT beneficial? Is there no one here stateside that does the same service? Are aftermarket electronics (i.e. power commander) obsolete on this bike, or still needed?


Who has know how on removing unnecessary electronic bits correctly? exhaust, etc ABS is staying, but I'm sure there's a way to disable it I just haven't figured out how to yet because I don't have a need to get rid of it. It's serving street duty during break in.


For all intents and purposes, reply as if it's a full on super bike. I will likely NOT be going into the motor, but rather will just look to maximize the stock power plant with add ons and electronics and tuning.


Again, thanks for any solid input, or advice on where else to look. I've been on the RR forum but haven't searched extensively. But what I did find didn't have what I wanted.






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I've alerted Dylan and the school mechanic to your post to get you some answers on the suspension, aftermarket exhaust, and power profile for the exhaust.


I'll throw in one quick thing, it is very easy to adjust or disable the ABS electronically. To turn it off, you can cycle the traction control button on the handlebar, when you see the ABS light on the dash come on solid you have disabled ABS. That same button can also disable Traction Control. Or you can go into the menu to set your profile to make the ABS more or less aggressive to taste (using the ride modes), and if you have the Slick chip (as I assume you will) you could also use the +/- rocker switch on the handlebar to adjust traction control to more or less invasive, it is REALLY easy to change it.

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I would get a K-Tech fork/shock combo




Or an Ohlins, both brands full forks and shocks, not rebuild.(expensive)


On the motor, the "Power Kit" which consists of the full titanium exhaust, under $3,000, and an ECU flash from BMW, about $600. We can get a good price on the exhaust if your dealer can't give you a deal.


Don't do an RCK 3 ECU unlock unless you are a computer techie nerd. If so, you'll be in total bliss.


Beware of 3rd party ECU flashes. Some will be ok others, no. Tech support can be spotty from 3rd party companies. If you are nerdy and "know a guy" who you trust, go ahead.


You can disable the ABS with the handlebar controls. I use the ABS "slick" mode. Works great for me.


Get a datalogger and learn how to use it. I offer support on that to our students and people who get them from us or polite strangers.

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From Jeremiah, Superbike School mechanic:

The only thing I would add to what Dylan posted on that is that if he goes with an exhaust, the servos will need to be disconnected. He would keep the boxes intact and plugged in, just remove the cables from the stock exhaust and allow the servo motors on the bike to move freely. Also stay away from power commanders. The stock computer is much smarter and will over ride them anyway. Also verify the bike is not equipped with ddc. Trying to throw springs in forks that are electronic won't work but if he bought the model with standard suspension then he can upgrade.

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Re exhuast: I want to say I've heard of people removing all of the servo stuff... not worth the hassle?

No PC. (thank you!) got it.

The bike is totally loaded- DDC, wheels, etc etc...

I haven't much messed with the different ABS/TC settings. I've skimmed the manual, but haven't mastered what all those settings are. I see it goes from -7 to 7 but no clue where to start. I suppose zero is a good middle ground ;-)


Thanks Dylan too. You may have missed who this is... lol It has been a long time after all. Would it be okay to pick your brain a bit via email?

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Here's a slightly different idea. You paid extra to get a bike that was DDC equipped and to rip it out and to pay more for a conventional suspension is a pretty expensive endeavor. The RCK3 gives you the ability to fine tune DDC and costs less than the price of a suspension refit. I would suggest picking up the front fork sensor and the data logger as well. They sell internal upgrades for the DDC equipped shocks and there are advantages to a DDC equipped bike. When conditions change DDC is already adjusting the settings to the optimal values. Here's a helpful video on the previous generation RCK2 and Race ECU. Most of it is the same with some additions to the 2015+ model year bikes.



DDC does have it's limitations at the absolute limits but in my opinion most of this is due to three factors. The average quality of OEM internals (which can be upgraded), perception (it's different than conventional suspension) and support (it's new so not many suspension people have embraced the idea especially because of the fear of it putting them out of work).


The RCK gives you the ability to adjust a LOT of useful stuff. Launch control, Engine Braking, ABS settings, DDC and DTC adjustment as well as wheelie control. It's a little intimidating at first due to all the choices and flexibility but it's not that bad once you have used it a couple of times. The software is Windows based and will connect to the bike with a cable that comes with the RCK via USB. Each system is broken into a tab with it's individual settings.


On the +7 and -7 the ends of the extremes are similar to Rain mode +7 and similar to Slick mode -7. This allows you to change the amount of DTC intervention "on the fly" while having full power. Here's a video of Nate Kern the BMW test rider using the adjustable slick mode on a 2013 HP4 in 48 degree weather on standard DOT tires. He's using +7. :)



I do have to agree 1000% with Dylan on the aftermarket tunes. You can make a huge amount of power with those kits. Only to have the choice of riding with no DTC at all (and crashing a LOT) or having DTC working overtime fighting you every step of the way because of the increased power output and a DTC map with compromises for rider safety. The aftermarket ECU flashes very rarely update DTC settings and if they do they are just based on dyno tests vs real practical track use. BMW's maps come straight from World Superbike rather than some dyno runs.

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  • 8 months later...

Dylan and Jeremiah,  do the same recommendations apply to a 2014 model, pre-electronics on the suspension?  Avoid the ECU also?  Bike handles great on the track in SLICK mode.  Seems like a new exhaust just makes it sound different.

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