XPyrion

There are points on the track where I have no issue looking at the gauges and I don't believe it takes away from my concentration. What usually affects my vision is the track surface. With seams, patches and rough spots, I find it difficult to look far ahead knowing that some of those spots upset the bike pretty good. While I try to keep those in my peripheral, it still takes more concentration than I would like to waste on it. More track time improving my line consistency should really help there.

I think they are sold separate because if you have it dyno tuned, it should be good for the most part. I live in Nebraska so I ride in temperatures from 30F-100F so it is nice for the Autotune to handle temperature swings. It won't handle a swing that big but I can make separate maps for temperatures but once a season hits, I just refresh the base map if the bike feels off. A dyno is used to make a good base map. An Autotune can make a good base map but without controlled conditions, it can be difficult to hit every point you need. If you are just mapping everyday riding, it does just fine. If you are mapping the track, you can get some outrageous values. At that point, if you don't like the values, you would have to do some manual smoothing. I have not used a dyno tune so I can't comment on the difference. I do use my bike for track and street so I do have some pretty odd values. As for your air/fuel ratio, it depends on what you are after, power or efficiency. The Power Commander should have the base settings for your bike. I have heard they are a bit conservative. For my bike, most are 13.2, 13.6 in the cruising range and 13 in 80-100 throttle over 5K. Depending on how you handle the throttle, the popping/cracking sound will be there. Drop the throttle on the track and you should hear it. Stock exhausts tend to keep that quiet even though it is happening but you definitely will hear it on an aftermarket. While I can't say you will get more ponies, a smoother throttle is the biggest benefit. If you have ever ridden a bike with a bad fuel map, you will understand.

I can confirm that the Autotune is real time and adjusts automatically. What your friend is referring to is refreshing the base map based on the input from the Autotune. The Autotune itself does not update the map, it keeps its own table and applies those differences in real time. It can be beneficial to refresh your base map after a run to get your base map more inline with the current conditions. Depending on the thresholds set on the Autotune, it's possible that you could limit it's range if your base map is way off. If that doesn't clear up what you were asking, let me know. Someone could probably reply with more technical terms also.

This was indeed a great weekend for racing. SSP might have been my favorite overall. For SBK, glad to see Rea ride the hell out of the Kawasaki again and look so smooth doing it. Sykes is fast but never looks that comfortable. As for MotoGP, past critical passes by Marquez have been very close but he usually comes out the victor at the disdain of the rider being passed. This time, him pressing a bit too hard after being passed didn't work. To me, it seemed like a mistake he would have made the first season and it cost him. Many races left however.

An air dryer is not required for TechSpec. I installed the current set over the Winter on the 636 in a 40F garage and they are sticking just fine. Like someone mentioned, you can stick and re-stick a few times to make sure you get them set just right. If you do go the TechSpec route, make sure to get the Snake Skin as that is their racing/track day product.

I have the TechSpec snake skins. They seem to have enough grip for me and shouldn't wear through your gear. Mine don't look too worn but I imagine the material can over time. Much easier to replace than the gear though.

Yeah, I should have clarified that I was making a ROSSI and MARQUEZ comparison as they both had to move through the field and the end result was ROSSI in 1st. An argument could be made that slower riders are easier to pass and therefore MARQUEZ moved through the field pretty quick but then you can see it taper off.

At the end of the race, Marquez was still 7 seconds off the lead. After lap 1, he only posted 2 seconds behind the lead. However, it is practically impossible to judge how much traffic had to play in that outcome. During the last few laps, ROSSI and DOVISIOSO were the only ones able to keep posting 1:55's, probably more due to competitiveness than anything else. Other riders may have been comfortable in their spot at that point. I would never make judgments off a single race though.

I know it's not adrenaline for me. I do like a challenge but I also don't need to win. It seems too simple but I just have fun doing it and I will probably continue as long as it stays that way.

That sounds nice. Below freezing ruined my ride commute this morning. I was lucky enough to have a good final track day Sunday.

I have had a few left vs rights debate at the track. At one track, my rights don't feel as comfortable but at another track I felt fine with both. Another person was more comfortable with rights a year ago but now prefers lefts. It is an interesting comparison because he is left handed also. Our conclusion was that there was no rhyme or reason to it. Just something you have to work through. Figured it was worth mentioning at least.

I get about 4,000 miles and 4 track days from the rear. It is my street bike so those are at the same time. I don't trust taking the tires on the track after that although I could probably squeeze another day out of them. Not worth the risk though. I should also mention that my track days consist of 180-200 miles for comparison.

I have an Accu-Gage RA60X with the shock absorber and have had no issues. This was posted on another thread but if it is consistent, then accuracy can be tested and adjusted by knowing how much it is off. If it is inconsistent then it just junk. On Amazon, there are good reviews for Joes Racing and Longacre. I know others who prefer digital gauges and the Accutire digital seems fairly popular. I would like to hear peoples results here though as I assume that is what you are looking for.

That is about what I get out of the front also. Unfortunately, the rear is half that. As long as Dunlop keeps supplying those $40 rebates though, I am all in.

Thanks for the reference. That helps me to know that maybe I am doing it right now. Considering I do about 5-6 track days a year, I am set for life. Hopefully it helps the OP also.

That is what I find interesting about the Q3's. The guy at our track that runs those on a BMW also keeps his pressures that low. On my 650 though, they are very squirrely. Enough so that I don't trust them enough to even attempt to get heat in them. Maybe if I had tire warmers, it would be different.

I was wearing through the stock pucks on an AGV Sport suit pretty quick so I switched to Woodcraft Klucky Pucks after reading good reviews about them. They are supposed to last longer as they are harder but they may not have the feel you like if you are used to softer pucks. I like them. I am working on dragging as little as possible though. Get down to the puck to set my angle, then lift the knee slightly. Edit: I forgot to include that I have been through 4 track days with the Woodcrafts and they show much less wear (barely any) than equivalent time with stock.

Using RaceChrono on my Android phone, I was able to map it to a GoPro video using RaceRender but unless you have a good GPS, it is not as good as using the bikes gauges.

Motomummy is showing around $300.

Video is the only electronic tool I have and found that it is very valuable in analyzing laps. The first thing I did was take my best lap and then recorded top speeds (where applicable), turn in speed and apex speed. I then found someone else's video that was a little faster than me to see where I can make improvements. I already suspected this but I was able to quantify that on average, I am 6 mph slower on right hand turns and only 2 mph slower on my lefts. This gives me something to focus on next time out. For my next track day, I am planning on another 650 showing up so we can get video of each others body position. That may provide more insight into my right handers. A few issues with mirroring another bike is that not all things can be compared equally. For example, top speed and braking points will differ since I am comparing an 899 to my 650. I spend a lot of time analyzing my video, if I had all that data from BMW, I would go bonkers. I am still hoping for a middleweight from them.

I should have mentioned this but prior to today, I have not used this recommendation. I emailed Dunlop after my last track day since I lost faith in tire traction after a low side. OK, two but one was in the rain. Anyway, someone on an S1000RR recommended very low pressures so I gave it a try. Well, they were very squirmy at first and I just never felt comfortable with it. What is the result you ask? Not one slide today and they felt solid through all 30 minute sessions. I ended up going down 2 psi in front and back after checking hot temps but the day also rose 20 degrees. Usually 1psi for every 10 degrees for those that don't know. Also, I previously figured I needed to start at cold 30/29 F/R to get to the 35/34 F/R. One more tidbit is that I track on a 2009 650R so results may vary. I assume a liter bike would get the tires hotter? I really am very curious to see results on different bikes though.

I have been soaking up as much information as possible after starting track days at TrackAddix since the beginning of last year. That means also reading these forums of course. Since I made my first post today, I decided to post here also. I would love to do the Superbike School but my wallet and time are against me. I like to think the spirit of spreading knowledge is still here though and that is why am here posting and reading. It is great to have an opportunity like this from people who really know their stuff.

Below is what I received from Dunlop. Anyone who has Q3's has probably read pressures all over the board though, even into the low 20's cold. I posted this in another thread but it is more appropriate here. "The best and easiest way to set your tire pressure is to start at 33psi cold front and 31psi rear, do a track session, then as soon as you come off the track, check your pressures and adjust them to 35 front and 34 rear for the Q3's. Don't be worried to try +- 2psi depending on how polished or coarse the track surface is. Lower psi for more polished tracks and higher psi for more course tracks."

I was reading many things concerning the Q3's so I made it easy on myself and emailed Dunlop. Below is thier reply. You may want to start there and feel it out. This is for your other thread but I always put my pressures back to stock for the street. I keep track riding for the track so I am not as worried about optimal hot tire grip. "The best and easiest way to set your tire pressure is to start at 33psi cold front and 31psi rear, do a track session, then as soon as you come off the track, check your pressures and adjust them to 35 front and 34 rear for the Q3's. Don't be worried to try +- 2psi depending on how polished or coarse the track surface is. Lower psi for more polished tracks and higher psi for more course tracks."