Bones

5 - Suspension Pre-Load, which effects the bikes geoemtry. So if you adjust the pre-load (setting the static sag) it would also affect your turn rate.

To clarify, you're asking how I increase my pace from say 85% to 95%, etc .. then to 100% ? Kevin, chances are I heard it a few times, and as it worked so well for me, I've applied it to my riding. "If you can't apply the drill at 85%, what are your chances of applying it at 100%?" These could be Keith Code quotes, I don't know anymore. Too many schools, and studied the TOTW books too much, I don't remember the original source. But I do know that Keith has taught me (through the school and TOTW books) 99% of what I try to apply to my riding. Cheers

I've lowsided the front twice, and the rear once. When lowsiding the front, all of a sudden it got quiet, then I noticed that the bike was sliding away from me, then there was ground, sky, ground, sky, ground, sky. Once I thought I'd stopped (the scenery stopped changing), I counted to 10 before trying to stand up (a wise racer once told me). When I lowsided the rear, I noticed in my periphery vision I could see a rear wheel (what the!) it looked exacatly like my wheel, even with the pin stripe on the rim! Then the familiar ground, sky, ground, sky, ground, sky! Back in the pits, this started a discussion on heat cycles for race tyres (a.k.a. tires) that still remains unclear to this day. Now days I don't put my knee down so hard on the ground, in the hope I might feel the front or rear through the knee slider. It has never been proven to work (thankfully), but I don't go through as many knee sliders either. As for the ground-sky effect, the same thing happens for a high-side, except you don't get up after counting to 10, and you get to meet some nice folks in medical outfits that help you out of the kitty litter and into a helicopter (may all corner works and medical staff be blessed). Cheers

I haven't been to a school in over 4 years, but I'm with the others Kevin. It is suggested that you ride at 85% to get the most out of the day. At times it was introduced as the $10 of attention. Personally, I felt it was one of the best points of the school. It's not how fast you go, but; Are you able to apply what you learn in the classroom. Cheers

The first things I do when riding a new track? Which direction and what's the lap record (sorry ... very old joke). Actually, before I even get to the new track, I try to find information on the internet (track diagram and video footage), a lot easier now days. If I can, I usually find someone to lead me for a few laps, or tag behind someone on their warm-up lap as they exit the pits. So this usually gives me a few laps to find out the characteristics of the track, and a gentle introduction. Also to keep in mind, I'm not going for the lap record in the first session (honest). So, I'm pretty much traveling around at about 75% of effort. Giving me plenty of change from my $10. If survival reactions are kicking in, then I need to back off a little more. How do I know that I don't have a Reference Point? I experience a waiting-for-something-to-happen feeling, or I get a searching-hunting-apprehension feeling and I don't get much change (if anything) from my $10 of attention. The only bad Reference Point, is none at all! Any Reference Point is better than none. Personally, Reference Points are to be either on the track or just off (some tracks have distance markers to the corners for braking). As mentioned previously (and in TOTW books) there are plenty of things you can use as Reference Points. Not all of my Reference Points are absolute (exactly where I want), so it maybe a few feet from my Physical Reference. My criteria for a good Physical Reference Point is that it is easy to see/find from a distance, and not take too much of my attention to re-locate and I can consistantly use it. Example at 75% effort (as I need enough attention left over to have some awareness) : Turn 1, very fast right hander after a long straight. Locate the second last braking marker (a sign with '100'), locate a turn point (start of outstide curbing); downshift at braking marker, turn at the start of curbing about 1 foot from the edge of the track. The result was the entry speed was OK (no Survival Reactions kick off). But was off the gas, the bike going wide and had to correct with a steering change. The turn point was way too early. Next lap, keep braking marker and keep the start of the curbing, but, now I'm going to turn 4 feet past it. So my Physical Reference Point is still the start of the curbing, and my turn point is 4 feet past it. The result is I'm still turning in too early. Next lap, keep braking marker, but now turn 8 feet past the start of the curbing. But, as I approach the corner, as I pick my turn point (8 feet past the start of the curb), I can see there is a Physical Reference Point near where I want to now turn (the start of a skid mark), this is now my Physical Reference Point. So I keep my Physical Reference Points until I can find something better. Cheers

4 - Press on the inside handle bar harder to make the bike turn quicker.

On the gas harder or more entry speed? Generally speaking, particularly if the corner is followed by long straight, I feel it is better to have a higher exit speed, as you will carry this advantage for a longer period of time (down the long straight). How about applying throttle earlier in the turn? The rule is, to apply the throttle as soon as possible. As your already 3 inches over the curbing, I wouldn't be changing my application of the throttle, but I would be changing my underwear. What is the correct way of assessing how close to the limit you've progressed? Personally I don't have an exit reference point. If I did, chances are, that is where I'd nearly always end up (because that is where I'm looking / aiming for). I let the bike dictate where it exits the corner. If I consistently have 12 inches to spare on the exit, I'd look at increasing the progression of my throttle application (harder in small increments) if I felt that bike could handle it, but still only changing one thing at a time in my plan for that corner. Cheers

2. Corner Chamber (positive chamber / up hill - more, negative / down hill - less) 3. Bike Geometry (Steep steering angle / race bike - quicker, long steering angle / chopper - slower)

Just adding Bira International in Thailand Cheers

It's the track for me now days. I've had a few big offs at the track, and if that had of happened on the street, I wouldn't be typing this. Plus there are too many idiots like me driving cars on the street around here Cheers

I've been aiming for the smoother riding style. Riders like :- - Troy Corser - Colin Edwards (especially in his Superbike days) It may not always get the top results, but there is nothing better for me than when I've put in several fast smooth seamless laps. What about you Stuman? Which pro rider(s) do you emulate? Cheers

What your seeing in the MotoGP 125 I feel is correct. They don't turn that fast (as you will see by the different lines compared to 250GP and MotoGP). With a 125 you have less power, and less weight, so they are trying to carry a lot more corner speed as its more important. The bigger bikes are more turn, point and shoot. The same seems to be the case for the 250's as well. The fastest bike at Phillip Island's turn 10 (MG) is a 125 GP at over 100 kph, while a Superbike is 88 kph. Cheers

LDBandit, I'd check your tire pressures. At the school the tire pressures are set to 30 front and 30 rear (if I remember correctly). OK for the track, but not ideal for the usual day-to-day street use. Cheers

Sean, Which method are you using to set the sag? There are several variants going around (Static, 1G, with rider and without) also various measuring methods, and tales what the upper and lower tolerances should be (road or race). The one I use is Static (with rider), where you measue the suspension fully extended (M1) then with rider in place, compress and let it rise by itself (M2), then rise and let it drop (M3). So add M2 and M3 and then divide by 2 (gives you the median) and then subtract that from M1. SAG = M1 - ((M2 + M3) / 2). I've found this method works well, particularly on the front. If it was possible to not have any stiction or drag, M2 and M3 would be the same, but you'll find about 20mm difference at the front and about 5mm difference at the rear. I originally found this method on the net using Google. Cheers Paul

My understanding is that the 'TRE' switch is a mod that tricks the gear position sensor that it is in 5th gear. The ECU uses a different map in 5th gear (better performance), and will increase low rpm throttle response. Also it will remove the 186mph restriction if your bike has it. Don't know of what the dis-advantages are; if any? Cheers

Jes1, Your biggest problem and issue, is that you don?t know, or, unsure about what caused the frontend washout. Until you can sort out what actually happened in that corner that caused the front wheel to wash out, it will be a mental scar. You need to go through the corner in your mind. Both a few laps before, and the time you actually got the front wheel washout. What was different? Speed? Location? Weather? What were you actually doing when the front wheel washed out? Was the front brake on? Were you on the throttle? Had you started/finished turning? Which part of the turn do you now feel apprehensive? You mentioned that you replaced the fork seals and replaced springs afterwards. Had you been making suspension changes? Compression, rebound or pre-load? Were the fork seals leaking when it happened? Talk to other races about it. Go through with them what happened. You?re not the only racer to have a front end washout on them. Did someone behind you see what happened? Other witnesses? The survey says : Ask a racer what their worst corner is? Chances are, it?s a corner (or type of corner) that they?ve crashed at, and they don?t know why. Late last year I posted a topic on this forum titled : ((Education) Awareness) Control + Plan) = Confidence? http://www.superbikeschool.com/bbs/index.p...act=ST&f=2&t=47 Cheers

Just remember that you're sharing the school bike with other students on the day. So Will may not change the shift pattern if you're sharing the bike?

Anyone and everyone starts at Level 1. As 'xtrmln' correctly states, the levels are structured, so everyone starts at Level 1. The good news is, once you do level 1 in the USA you can (if you wish) do the other levels in either Australia and/or UK Europe. The same applies to students that have done any of the CSS schools worldwide (we have even done schools in Malaysia and Philippines). Cheers

No offence taken Maybe we should all print multiple copies of this article Weaving Does Not Warm Tires Faster and hand it to all of our fellow competitors? Maybe then they will all stop weaving, and we'll all send less time waiting on the grid Cheers

Weaving isn't dangerous if done right. As I said; it is only two or three weaves at the end of the lap. Which is usually after the last mashalling point (waving yellow) and the start grid as we are all slowing down. And I don't start (or finish) the weave going across the entire track, the first weave is gentle as a kind of warning. My purpose/reason for weaving as above, is to expose fresh rubber as we are all slowing down to grid up.

Alwayslearning & Rifleman : Also read an article of the best method of how to warm the tires on a racetrack (it was with tire technicians from the manufacturer). They tested multiple areas of the tire, as well as track temperature each time. As Alwayslearning said: The best way to warm the tires was to go hard (accelerate and braking). But they did state that two or three weaves (no more) at the end of the lap will assist to expose nice fresh rubber and not affect the tire temperature. I’ve followed the above for the past two years, and haven’t had any problems. Cheers

Oranganator, Just did a quick search on Google (www.google.com) for "SV650S racing", there are heaps of links to the SV and the changes made for the track. Seems that there is a complete class of racing for these machines. Enjoy!

All you need to do; is be prepared to be a good student. To be a good student :- * Make sure that you get plenty of rest the night before the school, it's a long day and you don't want to be fading out near the end. * Turn up early, and be where you're asked to be (there are student wranglers to assist) * Stick to the program and work on the drills * Want to improve in every session (this is one of your instructors goals). * Keep hydrated, drink plenty of water, eat well. * Ride on the track with enough attention to learn ($10 - TWOT Introduction 'What'll it cost' Page xii) * If you're unsure about something, or you have a question, tell someone. If you can't locate your instructor, ask another instructor. If they're all on track, let the staff know that you've got a question or problem, they can help or will find help for you. * Enjoy! Cheers

Will, Have to agree. Under normal braking, my goal is to completely remove/reduce the braking force from the handle bars. There are only a few corners that I use this steering transition (it is still the old CS). At Phillip Island, from turn 3 (240+kph) to turn 4 (90-100 kph) is an extreme braking approach. Also from Lukey Heights at MG corner as well. Possibly you could use it at turn 11 at Laguna Seca? Give it a go, I'm interested in your feedback. Cheers Paul

And after you invest in a track bike there is :- - enclosed trailer - slicks - tire warmers - spare rims - better leathers, helmet, gloves . . . . - racing club, state, national - trainee instructor - and the addiction continues . . . . This is just the beginning . . . . .