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    currently attached to idea of living/working in foreign lands/cultures, ie. not a tourist.<br /><br />music/film/theatre/dance/art/literature/philosophy/science/engineering/teaching/etymology/history/cartography/<br />astronomy/spacetravel/celestial mechanics/building spaceships/predicting the next ice age...sailing/skiing/climbing/flying...laughing, playing, singing, writing...yaw/pitch/roll...gp bikes<br /><br />being part of the solution.<br /><br />oh, racing's pretty cool, too!

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  1. Racer-- I have looked at your comments and found them to be as Stuman states. Stuman is one of the top coaches in the world, Class IVA. He coached full time for me for several years, coached for both of our branch schools, (UK and OZ) even was a coach for the wheelie school. Highly qualified is an understatement. I have privately asked you to be more polite on this forum, 2 times, after recieving PM's on your attitude. I know of 2 more from the recent exchange with Stuman. I don't like being a cop, and mostly people can work out things they want to talk about, if their manners are good. Even if they don't agree. But if you cannot figure out how to let people express their own viewpoints without slamming them for it--making them appear stupid or wrong, I'm going to suspend you. There will be no further warnings. One aspect of the forum population that we are trying to get involved are the ones that don't post as much, if at all. If they believe that a knowledgeable person like Stuman is going to get ripped up, they just might not want to post and stick their necks out, and that's not the kind of tone we want here. People generally learn better when a lighter tone is used. Regards, Cobie Fair Chief Riding Coach Worldwide You are entitled to your opinion and you are the chief. In no way would I attempt to challenge your authority. That said... Although I have repeatedly requested specific examples of what you are talking about in private, you refuse to respond and continue to offer these vague, generalized, non-specific, unsupported characterizations and strawman ad hominem. Whatever. When you can behave like an adult and treat me like an adult and discuss the matter like an adult, perhaps we will get somewhere. As long as you continue to disrespect me privately and publicly I see little chance of being able to make the changes you allude to. Peace.
  2. I have no idea what you are talking about, Stuman. Oddly enough, I think you sound condescending and snide. Especially your post to acebobby in this thread. "Whatever you say dude, ..." etc. In any case, you sound upset. Perhaps a time out would help.
  3. All of the above, dude. Every "feeling" you mentioned is possible. Like Cobie said, it depends on the conditions. Some tracks are quite grippy when wet and some are not. The same conditions exist on the street. Just like learning a track, it is a good idea to learn the roads you regularly ride. Where is the tarmac fresh and grippy, where is it old, worn and slippery? Intersections are the worst as cars and trucks sit and idle at red lights leaking puddles of slip juice onto the road. They can be pretty slippery even when it is dry. So, there isn't any one single answer to your question for wet weather riding. Sometimes you will get lots of clear warning. Sometimes your first clue is the sound of scraping bodywork. That said, you'll need to start trusting your tires, in general, sooner or later. Like you said, if you can't make yourself lean over, you won't be able to turn. Make sure you have fresh rubber and your machine is certified in good working order. Then... just do it. One note about rain riding: the most dangerous time is when it first starts to rain and the oils and grime in the road float to the surface. In a hard rain, they will be washed away after a short time. In a light rain, they might not go anywhere. So, the most slippery time is just after it begins to rain. And a hard rain is better than a light rain for traction. (Sorta counter-intuitive.) In any case, the best thing you can do is to have fresh rubber with deep grooves for standing water. A last word of advice: be smooth in rain. Like a car in the snow. Nothing sudden. Gradually increase lean angle to find the limit and mind the rules of throttle control and weight balance. Don't overload front or rear. No hard gas. Be easy on the brakes. Use a little rear brake in the rain. Be mild and be smooth. And get a copy of Twist of the Wrist if you don't have one. It will save your life. Good luck, r
  4. I don't know what that means. If you know fifty road racers who don't blip, would you consider that to be "many"? I would not. I would consider it to be "few" as it represents a very small percentage of all road racers. Soo, how many can you name? Regardless, I will take that statement as clear indication of you now backing off of your implication that racers not blipping supports your contention that "clutch release, not braking" is how "backing it in" is done on road bikes. Roadracing schools? Can you name some? I know what you mean. I am starting to get a little older myself at 45; but, I do recall Keith and Cobie saying so both at the school and here on the forum. Actually, it is part of Keith's standard rap and one of the most basic tenets of standard downshifting. It is probably even mentioned in TOTW. If I have some free time, I'll do a search for you. In the meantime, Cobie could chime in as he obviously knows what he said and is here more frequently than I am these days. And anyone can always email Keith and ask what he thinks. r PS ~ We have several threads devoted to the subject of downshifting here on the forum. One recent thread going in depth where I posted some animated diagrams of transmissions to help demonstrate why it is mechanically a good idea to blip and release. Aside from catching false neutrals and getting lost in the gears, what you suggest (ie. pulling in the clutch and letting the revs fall off) increases the risk of damaging your transmission because the synchromesh can't overcome that kind of difference in revs between road and motor. So, if you are little sloppy with your shift points, ie. if you shift when the revs are down, you are likely to get a very loud surprise. But don't take my word for it, go ahead everyone, go wind out first gear to red line, pull in the clutch and let the revs fall off, then shift into second gear. Clatter clank bang... OUCH! If you can even get second gear to engage, it will be a highly painful experience for your transmissions and a good way to chip and break those oh so lovely factory undercut dogs and bend up your shift forks. Better yet, wind up third gear to red line, pull in the clutch and let the revs fall, then downshift to second gear. Actually, please don't. I think most everyone here has done it by accident at least once and knows what I am talking about. The thing is that even with the clutch pulled in, the oil in a wet clutch creates hydraulic stiction between the clutch plates. Not enough for the motor to slow the bike down, or road speed to affect the motor; but, enough to back torque the input shaft of the tranny and reduce the effect of the synchro-mesh to match gear speeds when shifting. To be clear, THIS is how motorcycle transmissions get damaged. Chipped and broken dogs and bent shift forks from trying to force the shifter through the same circumstance. So, anyone who wants to try the "clutch release to back it in" technique, I would recommend completing all of your downshifts with blipping and only after the last downshift would I hold the clutch in and let the revs fall off to use clutch release to slow the rear wheel. Again... only after I finish all downshifting would I hold the clutch in and let the revs fall. Anyway, I will stick to using the rear brake. It's cheaper to replace brake pads than clutch plates... or transmissions. Also, to anyone who wants to experiment more with the rear brake... I cut my rear pads (use a grinding wheel to reduce the surface area of the pad) to reduce braking action and give me a finer, broader range of control, ie. allow me to push harder, hence, have better feel and control to not lock it up. And so do "many" other road racers who use the rear brake. racer
  5. Yes, it was Doohan and DuHamel followed suit when he broke his leg, too. DuHamel liked it so much he kept the thumb lever after his leg healed. I don't recall if Doohan's leg ever healed enough to effectively use the pedal again.
  6. Erm... what? Are you talking about dirt bikes and supermoto perhaps? The VAST majority of road racers blip. And ALL the riding/racing coaches at EVERY road racing school I have ever attended or worked for, including CSS, teach it as the proper standard technique. Very few road racers I know of are not able to master it or choose to not blip. In any case, I see what you mean now about pulling in the clutch and letting the rev's drop down low rather than hitting the rev limiter to get the same effect of back torquing the wheel when you release the clutch. Thanks for explaining that. Of course, as Keith teaches and Cobie has already said and every road racer knows, not blipping and releasing the clutch between each shift is a good way to catch a false neutral and lose track of what gear you are in... or not in. So, maybe supermoto guys do it differently?
  7. FAAAACK!!! And Colin puts his hand up to the crowd like, "Yes, I am a God. Thank you, thank you...." LOL
  8. LOL Your mother wears Army boots. For what it is worth, Troy Bayliss was the only 1000cc superbike rider to lap faster than the supersport 600's at the World Superbike round in Portugal this year.
  9. Hi Stu, Is that a newer technique adopted since the widespread introduction of the slipper clutch? I've never backed it in by downshifting too early and controlling the over rev rear wheel lock up with the clutch. That sounds like it would hard on the engine. Constantly locking the rear wheel by bouncing it off the rev limiter like that? Ouch! Not on my bike you don't! Anyway, all the racers I know, including myself, who "back it in" do so entirely using the rear brake. That's why riders like Mick Doohan and Miguel DuHamel went to the trouble of mounting thumb operated rear brakes to the handlebar when they were no longer able to use the pedal. Andy Ibbott covers backing it in with the rear brake technique in the California Superbike School - UK TV series. Episode 5 or 6 I think it was. He never mentioned using the clutch to control over rev lock up. I'll have to look more closely next time I'm watching a race on TV. Cheers, racer
  10. I have no idea what you are talking about. Jay. Have a good holiday.
  11. Erm... soo... should we assume your point is that you think he was backing it in for "intimidation"? Even though it slowed him down? As a chess player, I've used it to good effect when I've made enough mistakes to know I should loose. There's a 50% chance I can force an error from my opponent. Josh knew he had a solid 4th; IIRC 5th was too far back, so he had nothing to loose. He now had his sights set on the podium. Uh... I'm not following you. Was that a yes or a no?
  12. Erm... soo... should we assume your point is that you think he was backing it in for "intimidation"? Even though it slowed him down?
  13. I do that too! But the 2 stages of braking are ease it on then ease it off, in between the 2 stages is maximum braking which will differ for different situations, smoothness on the brake lever is key as if you experience a front wheel lock up you do not have to completely release the brake to regain control! Easing the brake out is just as important as easing it on and not grabbing a handfull of lever! On an interesting note a front wheel lock up can be controled by counter-counter steering if there is such a thing i.e. if you push right hand bar while the front wheel is locked the bike wil go left and vice versa but only while its locked, the rules return to normal as soon as the wheel begins to spin! So say if you brake deep into a right hander and lock the front, by putting a little pressure on the inside bar the bike will try to stand up only untill the wheel begins to spin again. I have overthought this technique and its messing with my head but I heard a pro racer talking about saving a crash with his knee and using this to his advantage! I think you got that a little confused. From riding dirt bikes, if the front starts sliding at high speeds a counter-steer will likely put you on your ass. You actually steer the bike. I have had to do this on pavement when I hit a false neutral going into a turn and the front started sliding. I didn't counter-steer, which would have just pushed the tire right out from under me - I steered the bike to gain traction until I slowed enough to regain traction. Then I could counter-steer again. It's a feel thing. If you haven't ridden dirt, you will most likely never learn what it is without crashing at high speeds repeatedly. You can't learn it on pavement without a whole lot of pain. Hi Thor, Acebobby is saying the same thing you are, ie. with the front wheel locked, the bike does not counter-steer. racer
  14. I just watched Josh Hayes put in a PHENOMENAL ride at the last WSS race in Portugal. He ran in the front group and held 2nd place for the last third of the race, but, was running against guys with obviously much faster bikes. ALL the bikes were running front of the pack SUPERBIKE LAPTIMES. The only rider to go faster than the front 600's was Bayliss on a 1000. And he was the ONLY 1000 to do so. HMMMM... Anyway... Josh held on battling over third place until the end, but, suddenly started backing it in on the last few laps for some reason. I figured his tires were probably going off so he was trying to relieve some pressure off the front. A couple other racers had lowsided pushing the front near the end. The track is fast, sweeping and flowing, lots of pressure on the front. Anyway, Josh was clearly losing time backing it in. The commentators even noted how the guy who passed him for third on the last lap wasn't doing it and how his in line style was clearly faster and why Josh was losing drive off the corners. Of course, the other guy's bike was clearly faster, but, Josh managed to hold them all off except the Turk until the end. And toasted his tires doing it. AWESOME ride. Awesome track too. Really awesome track.
  15. Sometimes slicks are hand cut to run in the rain when rain tires aren't available. Cut slicks would be disqualified from a DOT only race.
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