racer

Hi Clifton, I'm not sure what you are after. Sure, different styles will see different lean angles for a given speed. And I suppose the "style" where you hang off most will get your knee closest to the ground. In any case, for a variety of reasons, the "style" I described above in my critique of your body position (style #1 in your photo set) is basically the recommended "style" around here. But, by all means, follow Cobie's advice and look at what the very top guys (champions) are doing. Good luck, racer

Hi Clifton, It is a bit difficult to see through the lines (lol) but it looks like maybe you could be lower down with your body more parallel with the bike. And then your head and body off to the side again parallel with the bike, ie head next to the windscreen, not looking through it or over it. There is no measure of degrees when you should touch your knee. It touches when it touches. After a certain point, it becomes a function of how long your leg is and your body posiition. When I was a student they had us ride around without hanging off at all and apply the skill set. Pretty funny to see your laptimes go down when you aren't hanging off anymore. IMO, until the other things are sorted out, thinking about getting your knee down is more of a distraction than anything. So, I wouldn't worry so much about getting your knee down. I would focus on the basics. The confidence in the tires and lean angle will come with speed that follows. Cheers, racer

Hey ikonoklass, I try to use my leg muscles and keep my weight on my feet (like standing on the pegs) when shifting my body position for the reasons you mentioned. I never "hang" on the bars or use them for leverage even under heavy braking if I can possibly avoid it. This takes a conscious effort for me and I sometimes get lazy about it late in a race if I am fatigued. As for needing to counterbalance your body mass or the bike leaning without turning, etc...I would suggest you experiment and see for yourself. Let us know how it goes. Cheers, racer

You are quite welcome, Johnny Mac. My pleasure. I'm smiling thinking of all the fun you are about to have embarking on your new adventure... Please, let me (us) know how it goes. Cheers, racer

Hey ikonoklass, Specifically speaking...why would you need to pressure the bar to keep the bike upright during the process of adjusting your body position prior to the turn point? racer

Thanks, Racer! I did see that thread, however the rider in question has a full 2 inches on me. I am way shorter. Hi schmi, I think the critical info was Cobie's final post: "If you let us know...we can help at the school. Let the office know in advance." The school used to have a toll free telephone number but: (323) 224-2734. In the meantime, leave a PM for Cobie here: http://forums.superbikeschool.com/index.php?showuser=1349 and I am sure he will get back to you ASAP or certainly in time for your school. No worries! Cheers, Racer

Hi schmi, Try this thread: http://forums.superbikeschool.com/index.ph...56&hl=short Racer

Actually, the 'short rider who can't touch the ground" question gets asked and answered a lot here. In fact I think if you look just a few threads down or use the search function you will see the answer. Anyway, be sure to call ahead in person on the phone with your measurements or concerns.

Hi schmi, Oh, an SV650... that's great! You should have no trouble then. I think the school has several ways to customize the bike for you and only recommends contacting them directly ahead of time so that they can have everything ready for you when you arrive. Nothing to worry about! Enjoy! Racer

Slightly off-topic... Every motorcycle I have ever purchased came with a magnetic oil plug. These include Kawasaki, Honda and Yamaha (never owned a Suzuki or Euro marque). However, some of these were second-hand used bikes, so, my question is....does anyone know of a motorcycle brand that does not come with a magnetic plug from the factory?

I know exactly what you mean. And I'm not even riding a motorcycle...

< http://www.wera.com > Hey Johnny Mac, WERA can fill you in with a rulebook and entry forms, but, there's nothing like being there..."up close and personal". You might attend a round (or two) at Grattan or Gingerman as a spectator.... but, better yet, sign up to cornerwork! Free gate fee, free lunch, best seats in the house, and.... I can't recommend cornerworking highly enough as a way to gain intimate knowledge of a race course and for networking with folks at the track. Cruise the pits and introduce yourself and your intentions to start racing and you will find an overflowing fountain of friendship and free information at your disposal. Especially dressed in cornerworker's "whites". The investment will be repaid a thousand fold in years *not* spent learning the inside line the hard way and friends to travel with and pick YOU up when you fall. What's the word...? PRICELESS! I'm not sure who handles the cornerworking up there these days, but, WERA can certainly hook you up. Good luck, Racer

http://www.wera.com

OK, for a bit of perspective, I spent three years reading "Twist of the Wrist" while riding on the street/highway and had over fifty thousand riding miles under my belt before attending my first superbike school session. And those four sessions were spread out over two more years after which i spent another couple of years just corner working before I entered a race or "turned a wheel in anger".

I think I attended something like four superbike school sessions before attending my first race weekend with my own bike and found myself to be far faster than the other novices in my racing classes. I think that riding the fully prepped school bikes made a big difference for me in learning how a bike is supposed to feel on track. Bigggest changes I made for my track bikes was fork springs (and shock when I could afford it).

I realize that CSS is sponsored by Kawasaki, I hope it is OK that I posted that link here.

You can use an online telephone directory to find a Honda dealership to call. If you are unable to find a dealership willing or able to answer your question(s) , try this link: http://powersports.honda.com/help/ There is a FAQ section and toll free telephone numbers to call. I found this on Google, but, any search engine is an awesome resource.

Hi Michael, It does take practice. The trick is letting your finger(s) SLIDE or SLIP back and forth over the lever while maintaining even pressure on the brake lever while blipping. It helps to leave room to slide back and forth, ie not using the tip of your finger(s) on the brake lever, but, rather starting between the first two knuckles. If you are having difficulty with that, you might consider adjusting your brake lever position. You can practice this technique standing still with the motor off, just experimenting with the motions of blipping and slipping together without jerking. I had some difficulty when I first started learning this technique due to my square hands and short fingers making it difficult to operate the throttle when I was squeezing the brake. To overcome this, I began by using just one (my middle) finger (which I later noticed another very famous, short guy like me did as well). Later I was able to adapt to using two fingers. Racer

Hi squirrels, If you use the search feature I'm sure you will find several threads about setting up suspension. The critical issue to start with is setting the sag. The rule of thumb is about 1 inch of sag in your suspension when you sit on the bike in full gear. So, before you go spending the cash for a new spring(s), you want to try adjusting the pre-load on the spring(s) you have now to achieve that sag figure. Ideally, the correct sag would be acheived with zero pre-load on the "ideal" spring, but, that isn't always realistic and as long as we don't have to crank the pre-load nut half way down the shock, we'll be ok. The main drawback for extreme pre-load is a loss of range of motion in the suspension which will reduce the shock's performance. The more pre-load, the shorter and more compressed the spring is to start with, the less ability the suspension has to perform its function. Effectively, you end up with little or no useful spring. The OEM stock spring will be rated for a range of rider weight. It should be in the owner's or technical manual, but, if not, your local Yamaha dealer should be able to tell you what that range is. If your weight in full riding gear is beyond that limit, or even near it, you'll want to spend the cash for a heavier spring(s). If you do decide to swap out springs, I'd recommend researching multiple sources. There are several mainstream reputable, high quality aftermarket spring manufacturers. A good parts man will be able to help you with that. I'm not personally aware of the options for the R1 but an aftermarket spring might even be less expensive than OEM equipment (if offered) and be just as good or even better. Keep in mind that if your shower weight is 250, then you are more like 270+ in full gear (leathers, helmet, boots, etc). That is definitely on the high side of the stock springs I've known. So, I wouldn't be surprised if you need to swap out. And if you ever ride two up, a little head room is good to have there. Last thought...although you might be able to compensate somewhat for a too soft spring by cranking up the damping in a pinch, that really only compromises the purpose of that control system for a far less than optimum result. I do not recommend it for standard operation for any longer than it takes to get the new spring in. There are several things in life I can justify spending the money to do right. Tires, brakes and suspension are three big ones. That's my advice. Hope it helps. Good luck, Racer

I once owned a Kawasaki GPz 750 that had pressurized forks. The owner's manual specified the proper psi range for conditions. I would start by inquiring with a dealer for your make. I recommend getting an owner's/technical manual or both if you don't already have one. I have found these publications to be invaluable and indispensable sources of information. If you post your make and model, perhaps someone here can tell you what you need to know to get going.

Hi Clifton, I would direct your question to Willie (Balistic) via PM or Email. I can't think of anyone more qualified to respond. http://forums.superbikeschool.com/index.php?showuser=9

I remember re-learning to ride on the street after attending CSS having learned techniques, like quick turn in, to improve my lap times. The trick is to integrate the techniques one learns at the school to improve ones street riding skills to improve safety. It can be a subtle shift of intention...or an emotional battle of desire. If I apex too soon on the racetrack (even after a deep turn in), I generally take it as a sign that I can go faster in that turn. However, some types of more complex corners, like decreasing radius, may require a more complex approach that can't be simplifed to the application of a single skill. Success in these more advanced turns still requires a firm grasp of fundamental skills which may be applied together. Riding on the street my first goal is safety as opposed to extreme speed. In the case of apexing too soon I would adjust my turn in and/or speed so as to apex at an appropriate place in that turn, according to my plan, while maintaining a safe speed that doesn't leave me committed to a particular line... hanging it all out so to speak. I prefer to leave my options open for changing my line to avoid unforseen obstacles that can appear around any blind corner. Even if one knows the physical character of a turn well, you can never know what obstacle might be there now that wasn't there an hour ago...sand, gravel, a parked vehicle, etc etc etc on a public road. In other words, on the street, quick turn in or the ability to quickly change lean angle and line becomes another tool in my bag of tricks for staying alive. Rather than an end unto itself. And simply flicking it in everytime might not always be the best solution in and of itself. But it is definitely a fundamental skill.

Although all corners do share some basic characteristics, like being curved, each is a unique set of variables that requires its own plan and line. While repeated "practice" of a corner can be helpful, it can also be counter-productive if one repeatedly practices the wrong line. Choosing a proper line for a particular corner requires foreknowledge of that corner. Unless one is a Jedi Knight, that foreknowledge can only be gained by a physical inspection. I have found that the quickest way to gain knowledge of a corner is by going slow. I like to start by walking it to see all the things I can't see when my attention is focused on what might be coming the other way and whether I am on the right side of the road to avoid hitting it or other obstacles (like potholes I don't know about because I'm not a Jedi).

I sold my 94 RS125 to a guy in Oklahoma who was doing the same thing a few years ago. I believe he was sponsoring an entire series at that time. I've been trying to remember his name for several days with no luck. Perhaps an online search engine might provide some result. I think there was a Japanese company...?Moriwaki?...that made an 80cc racer (MT80H?) as that class is big over there. If you do start with an RS125, the 125cc engine makes a great shifter cart!

A 125 does not have much horsepower, hence, to make a fast lap, the less powerful machine must maintain as much entry speed as possible and choose a line to maintain as much speed as possible through the corner. To that end your turn point will be 1/4" off the paint stripe or curb. (Or perhaps up on the curb if you are Pierce Duchene passing someone on the brakes.) The fact that a 125 can corner faster than bigger HEAVIER bikes is a separate issue and mostly due to the light weight of the machine creating less stress on the contact patch of the tire. The dry weight of a pre-2004 box stock RS125 is about 70 kg or 154 lbs. Throw in three gallons of fuel/oil mix, transmission oil and water in the radiator and that goes up to circa 190 lbs. Add an airbox and other black box goodies like electronic shifter, detonation counter, data aquisition, telemetry or other electronic modules for kit options like adjustable power jet or rigging for variable exhaust port valve timing and you might get upward of 195 lbs. (Of course, Marchesini wheels, carbon fibre bodywork and a bag of Ti fasteners will cure that.) A well tuned box stock 1996 RS125 running avgas on dry fat air made circa 39-40 bhp at the rear wheel. A kitted and modified machine running oxygenated fuel could make over 50 bhp at the rear wheel. World GP 125's of that era were making about 53 bhp at the rear wheel. The fastest bike in the US was undoubtedly RodFee's which dyno'd around 51 bhp. The only thing his engine had that mine didn't was a D-bore powerjet carb, stuffed cases, modified reed block and the kit igniter box which altogether was probably worth about 3 bhp. (To be fair, Ben Solis and Vicky Jackson-Bell were right about there as well.) That may not seem like a big deal but that's a 20-25% (or more) increase in raw power and brings the horsepower to weight ratio down to circa 5:1 with a small rider. Which is about the same or better than a modern 600 with a big rider. Back then, at 120 lbs, I could easily motor past older 600's on the front straight at Putnam Park. And more than one 250 rider came searching for me in the pits to find out just what the heck I was riding after they had to stay in my draft to keep up. I was also able to roll up power wheelies coming onto the front straight at Laguna Seca by scooching back in the seat a bit. Hee hee hee...thank you Rodney Fee...whatever third world prison you may inhabit today....you madman.