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Compliant Suspension Range


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I'll jump in with a piece of advice from one of the books (forget which one now) where you ideally want to be towards the top end of the rev range coming out of the turn, so if the bike does spin up and you get a slide, it only has a few hundred RPM to develop into, rather than several thousand.

 

I don't recall seeing that in the Twist materials, but do remember seeing that tip on Simon Crafar's DVD...

 

 

I haven't been on a bike with traction control but not sure if I want it......seems like it takes the skill building out of the rider and relying more on the technology to make up for your mistakes which I don't think is right.

 

I would agree that it's not a good plan to rely solely on TC and other electronics as a means to advance your riding. But I also think that it's a mistake to completely write-off electronic aids because you want to be a "real rider", or have some other type of ideal in mind.

 

A lot depends on the level of adjustment in your TC, and how you have set it up. For example if you have it set to maximum (or a setting that will stop your rear wheel drive at the very first hint of a slide), and complain about not being able to get good drive out of corners - to me that is in the same type of problem category as having 10mm of front sag and 40mm rear sag in your suspension. You have not tuned/adjusted it correctly. In either case it's not necessarily a problem with TC or your suspension, just that you need to adjust it correctly so that it works better for your current intended purpose.

 

But one thing is for sure - and that is that all the electronic aids available today do let average riders explore more of their bikes potential with a much greater safety margin. But at the same time, TC will not protect you from sloppy or greedy throttle use. wink.gif

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I'll jump in with a piece of advice from one of the books (forget which one now) where you ideally want to be towards the top end of the rev range coming out of the turn, so if the bike does spin up and you get a slide, it only has a few hundred RPM to develop into, rather than several thousand.

 

I don't recall seeing that in the Twist materials, but do remember seeing that tip on Simon Crafar's DVD...

 

It's definitely in there somewhere, I'm just not sure whether it's book one or two. It's in a section where Keith is talking about the tyres having an effect on the gearing of the bike when cranked over.

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It's definitely in there somewhere, I'm just not sure whether it's book one or two. It's in a section where Keith is talking about the tyres having an effect on the gearing of the bike when cranked over.

Twist-2, page 21 (Chapter 4, Throttle Control).

 

 

Yeah, I'm rereading it

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I'll jump in with a piece of advice from one of the books (forget which one now) where you ideally want to be towards the top end of the rev range coming out of the turn, so if the bike does spin up and you get a slide, it only has a few hundred RPM to develop into, rather than several thousand.

 

I don't recall seeing that in the Twist materials, but do remember seeing that tip on Simon Crafar's DVD...

 

It's definitely in there somewhere, I'm just not sure whether it's book one or two. It's in a section where Keith is talking about the tyres having an effect on the gearing of the bike when cranked over.

 

It's in A Twist of the Wrist II, in Chapter 4, in a section called "Fine Point". Too long to type here but VERY useful to read - it covers a lot of info about what gear/RPM range to be in, and why.

 

Thanks, Steve, your comment reminded me exactly where to look for it. :)

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