ktk_ace
-
Posts
702 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Posts posted by ktk_ace
-
-
If the throttle is cracked and rolled a little, the bike does run wide. Then the rider might have to wait a bit for the bike to come back to the line he wants. There are some situations where it isn't necessary to roll all the way off (esses with the 2nd turn faster than the first, but even in those cases for sure stop rolling on).
But in a "normal entry" turn, with say braking before it, if the throttle comes on too soon, bike runs wider than it should and one has to then "fix" that.
sounds erriely similar to steering corrections .
-
Funny, where are the Q2/3's?
Or these are Euro spec tires? (cuz de german...i canz reed) -
There is another point brought up earlier in the thread, and one was cracking the throttle (from just off to on) beforereaching max lean.
What happens when the throttle is on, or cracked on or rolled on while the bike is still being leaned over, what happens to the line specifically the motorcycle is taking?
CF
It runs wide because it makes the motorcycle stand up while doing the quick flick?
-
Those are 2 good points, but I had something else in mind.
When the rider gets the steering done, ideally what does he/she do with the bars next?
CF
-Be loose on the bars (taking excessive rider input out of the equation of cornering)
> better weight distro as one needs to have proper lower body anchoring for loose upper body movement
>one steering input per turn is perfect
then is throttle control for smoothness ...
-
You are at maximum lean angle when you are starting to feel uncomfortable end of story.
Are you sure about that, or could that be a Survival Reaction causing the uncomfortable feeling?
What starts causing your uncomfortable feeling while cornering?
Bonus Question: What signals would the bike give you when it is approaching maximum lean, and what is maximum lean?
hardware max lean = scraping parts
-
There seem to be three reasons people have said that seem plausible for all the trail braking in Isle of Man TT.
1. Long straights. Whoever mentioned using trail braking when coming off a straight to keep the higher speed for longer, I have a question for you. Since the quick flick allows you to turn in later, assuming your 100% on the brakes in both techniques, you would start braking later in the quick flick. Wouldn't that mean you keep the higher speed for longer with the quick flick?
2. The feel at the limit of traction from trail braking.
3. Different hardware. Perhaps for the superbikes, but certainly not the superstock and in the videos they look to ride them pretty much the same way.
Most thoughts in this thread are that the quick flick makes total sense, so specifically for the Isle of Man races I am still confused, perhaps its just number 2, but what a let down if that's the case
Could a quick flick master come shatter the TT lap records?Maybe at those IOMTT speeds, the roads (remember they are public roads , not hi friction maintained track tarmac) are "slippery" which is no.2.
Theres a list of things that prevents doing the quick flip in the video/book imho.
-
Hm, must have mixed up my copying because I intended to post a picture of a bloke riding in the wet
Yes, I fully agree that in the wet, your biggest enemy is the road conditions that you often cannot see.
An article about wet weather riding http://www.visordown.com/advanced-riding/wet-weather-motorcycle-riding-tips/14600.html
This is wet weather riding in the extreme
Knee down in the wet
Confident about the road conditions
Nice article Erick!!
Its wet today and after reading the article and riding afterwards, really helps to revise my riding in the wet
-
YD, I should have specified better that the bikes were even older, from the 70s. I doubt you could scrape stuff on wet roads on a Gixxer unless you'd already crashed ;-)
Cirka 1995, Performance Bikes magazine showed a photo of a courier with his knee down while riding through standing water around a roundabout. Pretty impressive, I reckon. The courier was on a ill maintained Suzuki RGV250. A sight to behold!
nice gif...lol
but im thinking the bottleneck is still road conditions, not the bike or tires now...
-
Seems like a new business opportunity for the school if they can crank up a course on wet riding trainingf
-
i dont listen to music when I ride.
I prefer speakers and piano tunes in front of the computer thou ... -
Hi there, welcome! Nice Beemer offroader!
-
http://www.sportrider.com/riding_tips/146_1204_trail_braking_riding_skills_series/
Looking at the G force data ,
seems that my hypothesis on braking hard on straights to 15 degree lean angle + a quick flip into the corner has G force data logging graphs to back it up!
meaning if the maximum total G force the bike can handle in a turn isnt scrubbed off on the straights , the far-too-hi-speed cornering speed will come back negatively as an unwanted cornering G-force ; physics will take over for better or worse and you lose the freedom of near total control of the bike
also sub second flips on road bikes with smaller lean angles means cutting the "empty/sub optimal" total g-force timing to a minimum, making the bike bike compliant thru the whole process of the turn (from finding a turn point straight up all the way to exiting the turn straight up) as it is properly loaded up with the optimal g-forces at the optimal times with minimal "pogo-ing" so to speak .
Another hypothesis that Im willing to make is that track conditions only have to deal with much less factors which affect total G Force Potential ( GFP ) ,
meaning if a stock bike can handle 1G acceleration/deceleration on straights and corners :external factors that might affect the total GFP will include
-banking angle
-humidity/water depth
-sudden unideal road conditons (sand/debris , etc)
hardware factors that might affect the total GFP will include:
-sticker tires
-tuned suspension
-personalized tuned power output
- personalized tuned braking linearity
rider factors that might affect the total GFP will include:
-rider weight (F=MA , bigger mass = less acceleration can be used for same given force (total GFP))
-rider "experience" on speed/precision of reading and guessitmating/sampling future road condition GFP's for optimal speed and safety
-rider effective input to pre-optimize total GFP before, during(throttle control) and after(pick up) a turn
I might be wrong or need correction so feel free to chime in and discuss/ throw in corrections
ps. both bikes are bone stock (including tires) so this works for stock bikes.
-
Confidence will get you more per second spend (be a 9 not a 10 which is overconfidence)
I'd say stay away from rainy/cold seasons as it affects tire grip and suspension
nice white Ducati btw.
-
My guesstimate on why it isnt widely used:
1) clumbersome for road racing body movement (MX bike/riding is MOSTLY lower body and seat/tank/rider positioning is pretty diff from a road racer bike setup)
2) aerodynamics? anything not so aerodynamic above 60 MPH = very draggy
-
The best horse is the one you eat
Does that count as ...horsepower?
-
different road conditions different answers imho.
-
*facepalm at stroker not reading/ watching his materials.
-
...so Hottie how did this happen? Having just gotten out of a flex cast myself inquiring minds would like to know.I'm sidelined for the moment, broke my leg. I was NOT on a bike, which proves that walking is more dangerous than riding a motorcycle.
About four more weeks in a cast...WELL...
as you may recall, I have horses. My horses are very tall, and I'm pretty short, so I use a mounting block to get on, especially when riding bareback. A couple of weeks ago I was standing on the mounting block getting ready to get on my horse, and he moved away a step - so I stepped down off the block, and my foot landed on an uneven piece of ground and twisted under me. It probably should have been a sprained ankle but I'm very flexible, so my ankle just rolled all the way under until my fibula snapped. Audibly.
I don't seem to have any tendon or ligament damage, which is good news since those sort of injuries take longer to heal than broken bones, but the bad news is that I'll be in a cast for a total of 6 weeks... so I have about a month to go. It's my left leg, a complete mid-shaft fibula fracture.
Not that exciting of a story - it happened in my backyard! Naturally, everyone assumes it was a motorcycle injury (despite the fact that I have NEVER been hurt riding a motorcycle). I need a sign to wear around my neck that says "No, I did NOT fall off my motorcycle!"
You should totally have a sign on the plastr saying " the horse did it"
-
Im banking my guesstimate on the thin tires and very sandy/grainy surface that breaks... surface tension with ease
-
Not getting into accidents/crashing while generally 90% ahead of the pack while riding on public roads.
-
Thus far TC and ABS systems in cars have put me in more danger than not having them would have.
I'm pretty surprised to hear that! What kind of situations put you in danger?
I think this comes back to the point that electronic aids are just another control that need to be used properly. You can't blame the TC for limiting your speed on corner exit, that's like getting mad at the bike because you have a limited top speed when you only twist the throttle to 80%! If the TC is limiting you, the solution is to change the setting, or just turn it off. The TC is not faulty in any way, it's acting exactly as it was designed to.
Strange that you don't trust the aids, it seems like they have been behaving predictably and remained constant for you (for example rain mode limiting your drive out of corners)? You can trust it to do the same thing, every single time. You can't really ask for more than that, can you?
Mugget, to answer your first question I'll start with my local area in which a lot of the intersections are rather "blind" so, when you must go you must go. The last thing I need is a TC system that is confused and limiting power to less than a Toyota Prius just because the car was not pointed in a straight line or even when pointed in a straight line. It is quite common for my TC to engage as low as 1500 RPM's. Now these are not situations where full throttle is needed or applied, maybe 15~20% throttle used. The same has applied when I have been the one to have to slow down. When you are expecting the car to slow and the ABS starts engaging for no reason would you think that cause concern?
Let's put this into a riding scenario. You are behind an unpredictable rider that swerves from one side of the track to the other for no apparent reason, almost stops going down the straights, almost crashes in every turn etc, etc, etc... Would it matter if others told you that he's ok and you should just trust him? Or would you prefer to stay as far away as possible?
If you go back and read my earlier comments about "rain mode" you should notice that I said it was entertainingly aggrevating. I never said that I was mad at the TC or anything else. You are aware that in some vechiles when you turn off the "electronic aids" they are never turned completly off, even when advertised to do so.
A little different riding scenario. You are behind a rider that is not riding as one would expect but they are predictable in every turn, straight and braking. You may follow them and enjoy the entertainment for a while then get aggrevated after they have delayed your progress, Yes?
For me it is more about the systems operating when not appropriate or expected.
well then get a programmable one? TC... the stock ones are pretty much... tuned for maximum safety.
tunable race grade TC is getting cheaper by the moment~
-
1) Steel braded front brake lines. They can take hits from debris better than stock lines. It's a safety thing to ensure they always work when you need them but you will like the brake feel more as well. (About $100-150 plus installation.)
Benny
Oh, this is new to me, I thought the braided steel lines were just to reduce expansion of the brake lines to give a better and more accurate feel on the brakes. Thanks for posting that.
I can't prove it... but, I've seen a stock line cut by debris on a friends street bike. There's not a whole lot of structure/reinforcement in stock lines. Fortunately it didn't result in a crash, only an overshot stopsign at the end of the off-ramp. I personally would change the front lines on any bike I own whether they're street or track bikes for that reason but I really do like the gain in performance and feel you get with them as well. Besides, they are relatively inexpensive so I can't find a reason not to do it on the front. I rarely use the rear and it is better protected so I don't consider that necessary.
Benny
A brake vendor came yesterday to the shop where i frequent and I saw translucent "rubber" encased steel briad brake hoses ... could you say double trhe protection??
-
If you adhere to the manual, lines should typically be replaced every 4 years along with the seals in the calipers and master pump. Very few does that, but it's what the manufacturers recommend.
thats new, I havnt seen that in my manual ~ Had replaced the brake fluid every 6 months thou~
-
your lap times and how they compare to the groups on the track.
aftermarket programmable traction control also can extend tire lifespan by 10-20% depending on setup from what i read.
Could a quick flick master come shatter the TT lap records?
Riding In The Wet
in Cornering and Techniques
Posted
Im with fiery robot.
I think the physics is that the wheel's rolling momentum will try to correct itself and bring it back to equilibrium eventally.
Excess inputs such as holding the bars tightly/brakes will delay/prevent it and the resulting unwanted oscillation might cause headshake > whole bike wiggles > not good.