ktk_ace
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Posts posted by ktk_ace
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Kai,
yes braided steel lines is the first upgrade I add to any bike.
I've decided to go with Vesrah "SRJL-17" pads for now, I've also got seals for the pistons so I can rebuild both calipers, and purchased a "Flex Hone" to clean and resurface the rotors which have a fair amount of pad material and some slight glazing on them. I'll be sure and post some before and after pics of the rotors.
Thats alot of (and very good) preparation for brake pads! Care to share on what brake fluid you are going to use?
meanwhile you can have a look on the characteristics of the SRJL-17's compared to the other pad material here
(looks like quite alot of initial bite to me ; better make sure the tires are warm and grippy) :
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KTK,
at some point the skills and techniques you need to practice for street riding and for pushing the absolute limit of machinery around a race track start to diverge from one another. the thread is about practice and training for a "Racer" not a average rider, also there can be a world of difference between doing figure 8's in a parking lot or confined space and doing them on a real 1/2 mile dirt oval. Also just about every motorcycle shootout article I've read has had skilled riders stop faster with the ABS off than with it on. I would gladly remove the ABS from my new FJR if it were a option.
Tyler
I didnt know you could run 8's on a dirt bike on a dirt track until now , thats some new insight for me...
Maybe my idea of running 8's on asphalt was limiting my scope and view , thanks for the insights in your post!
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There are videos of bikes taking longer to stop with abs.What then?
Mind showing us the videos?
edit:
did you mean this?
I'd say 2 factors come into play:
1) The grade of the ABS
I have the opportunity to try both the FZ6N , XJ6N and the NC700 at the training grounds
The FZ6N is obviously the oldest bike in the paddock and with craped out suspension to boot ,; when the ABS came on, it was shuttering like mad ; stopping distance wasnt good
XJ6N and the NC700 are new bikes but the XJ6N 's ABS had a tendency to overheat the fork oils , resulting in the same shuttering like the FZ6N when the 4th or 5th rider came to ride the bike on a hot day during braking test practice runs (every rider has to run the whole course at least 10 times)
The NC700 however, has C-ABS , braking distance was significantly shorter although it only has one disc brake up front plus it has much less brake dive. The rider also doesnt get "thrown" or "shaken" that badly hence having more of the 10 dollars attention to relaxing the upper body and focusing on grabbing the tank with the tights.
C-abs doesnt come with downsides thou, if it activates in a corner , the line will be affected much more as 2 wheels are braking simultaneously .
2)the body positioning
Obviously if you clamp down on the tank AND dont straighten up your arms, the weight transfer forward will be much less resulting in a shorter braking distance.
That said, I'll still opt for ABS as insurance for ABS equipped bikes are much lower. The 2014 updated bosche 9.1M abs unit on the KTM adventure 1190 is another whole new level imho.
Its called MSC but i think its still ABS with updated software to work with the lean angle sensor .
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TOTW 2 has a similar experiment but the unit is MPH exiting the turns.
Tell me mr stroker , have you even watched the TOTW 2 video ?
I know you are the best ad avoiding the obvious thou. -
The figure 8, according to Jorge's dad, will teach you throttle control, braking, turn-in, lines, cornering speed, slides - just about everything involved with track racing. Personally, I cannot really comment.
yeah, everything, just not in the right dosage or way in this time and date. Its very outdated IMHO.
Maybe its just me but I've been there done that with 8's and I personally prefer a mini course / track or the touge behind my house where I get access to uphills/downhills , positive/negative chambered corners and low medium hi speed corners. Preferably with chase cam or an instructor to oversee one's strengths and mistakes.
What better way to troubleshoot the bike and one's skills than to throw real life conditions at it ?
Speaking of slides... does anyone actually tune the mass balance of their bikes to make sure its actually neutral on the straights in the rain? For ex the CB400 Spec2-4 and most scooters likes to skid itself on the side of the pipe when the tire/s loses traction :
I do.
Note on both cases , when the bike loses traction, it turns towards the side with the pipe/exhaust.
On a properly mass centralized bike (just on the left and right) , upon lockup of the rear wheel, the rear will only wiggle and squirm slightly, well within a riders control.
My personal level of precision in finding lines allow myself to actually make the rear step on part of a manhole/line to make it "slide" ; the result is 0.2-0.4s of oversteer drift .
How are you going to do/learn that on 8's? with no knowledge of overcoming SR's and a badly balanced bike + no knowledge of how the bike acts upon unwanted steering inputs , its very inefficient imho.
My scooter doesnt even have a tank for me to lock on to.
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I'm 6'1" and about 210. I'm working on that latter part :-)
The geardo and mechanic within me says you will at least need to change your springs to match your 210 pound psych.
And in between full blown race spec suspension, there is oil weight and fork internal drop in kits to consider , mostly depending on your budget.
PS. I'd get a ZX14R if i were you for my non track riding. Huge bike , lots of power, TC and roomy for you.
Maybe the suspension might even be in your weight range!
way too big for me thou, I'm only 5"9 . Stock 2013 S1000rr already feels slighly cramped for me last time i borrowed a ride from a friend so the S1000rr might be too small for you given you are much bigger than me.
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Alot? Im still skeptical that you have actually read the book/saw the video and applied it to your everyday riding for such a statement to pop up.
That or maybe the area where I ride is actually really close to being a full blown rally course with leaves, mud, sand and unexpected downpours forming small puddles everywhere , making hydroplaning a stark reality .
Im not discounting that it could be both or just one of them thou.
I do not understand what you are trying to say - could you please be more specific?
Riding 8's doesnt train much apart from finer control of the motorbike imho. Not triggering SR's and finding the ideal line is the real deal in surviving the harsh everyday commute for me.
And my oh my, the roads around my area sucks. hard. real hard. near full blown rally course level after a typhoon to be specific.
The strays and idiot road users both walking and on wheels (2,4,6 if you count the dump truck) makes the already insane conditions .... it ups the ante
Sorry, had a rough day everytime I ride . I cant change the environmental conditions atm.
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Speaking of figure of 8's.....it was for this reason i started the Moto Gymkhana threads wayy back.I really think there is a lot to be learned from such training.
Funny because I did 8's before teaching myself the ways of the school via video and book...on a scooter
Alot? Im still skeptical that you have actually read the book/saw the video and applied it to your everyday riding for such a statement to pop up.
That or maybe the area where I ride is actually really close to being a full blown rally course with leaves, mud, sand and unexpected downpours forming small puddles everywhere , making hydroplaning a stark reality .
Im not discounting that it could be both or just one of them thou.
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I'll only trust judgment from riders who had ridden both bikes imho...
The new Kawasaki ZX6R 636 does come with TC thou.
Your height and weight , if you can reveal, can also help members here to see if the spring rate on the stock 1000RR is suitable or too hard/ needs adjustment/ or simply too big a bike for your body size.
If your body psych is more on par with hotfoot , Im sure shes glad to chime in on the pros and cons of riding the S1000rr VS a smaller bike like her morikawa ~ -
F=MA
physics class anyone?
The more straights, the faster a lighter rider can accelerateexceptions : bike already has too much power
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I use the Verah SJL's for my road bike , full metal sintered GG rated , havn't had brake fade for the past 7500 miles
still have 1/2 of the pad material left when i did bleed the system at the 7000 miles ; I bleed my brake system every 6-9 months
But I dont track/race atm.Vesrah's are pricy thou .
Go for big brands + price advantage if necessary , the brands menthoned above are pretty strong contenders imho. (EBC , CL, BREMBO, Fedoro) -
Correct, but i think this backing it in business may look exciting but slow as compared to being smooth.
Its racing, you have 3/more types of lines , it might just be a defensive line ?
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Hi there
Welcome and make yourself at home here ^^ -
There is less grabbing in Moto Gp then? Why?
Different setup/ grade of brake systems? Carbo ceramic brakes bite like mad once heated up fyi.
Also ferrous rotors have fade which might have to be taken into account.
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IMHO the whole moto2 tire + brembo setup makes it linear enough for them to "grab" it
Racing tarmac (particularly new tracks like Austin) also has a much higher friction coefficient; the riders are riding on the edge, and if grabbing the brakes does not cause serious problems, it can help with their time and lines
;they can be much more aggressive so to speakjust my 2C
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looks like there is minimal hangoff... i might be wrong thou~
And the footpegs + footwork, kinda reminds me of the vertical bamboo climb they taught is in BMT ~
This is a photo from me riding that weekend and my typical body position.
It looks so effortless in the video~ Im impressed, thats phenomenal core + lower body strength!
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looks like there is minimal hangoff... i might be wrong thou~
And the footpegs + footwork, kinda reminds me of the vertical bamboo climb they taught is in BMT ~
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If its in the US
Yamaha wins in aftermarket stuff and support ...
Cost in time is another factor imho...
if time and money is no biggie , i'd get the ZX10R / 636 / daytona triumph 675R , super comfy race bikes for my body type.
S1000RR is only soso for my frame ; R1 kills me in 1 min... i start getting aches here and there
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If you happen to own an old style bike with twin shocks and progressive springs, you will (I believe) actually stiffen the action with extra preload by more or less eliminating the softer part of the spring from coming into action.
Not unless you are riding around with the suspension topped out (which you had better not be).
As long as it is not topped out with you on board, the spring compression will be the same - however much it takes to support your weight and the bike's weight. The fact that you achieved some of that total compression with preload and the suspension is therefore more extended in use does not affect the additional suspension action per unit force.
The exception to this the case of (usually) forks with really long topout springs. If you add so much preload that you are riding around with the topout springs engaged then yes, the suspension will be stiffer at the top of the stroke. But that's an exception, not the rule.
Eirik, I know you like technical stuff, so I am betting you will enjoy this site. Best series of technical articles on motorcycle suspension I have ever seen:
http://www.promecha.com.au/springs_basics.htm
There are three technical articles on springs, and then it goes on to linkages and leverage.
Thanks for the link.
About preload - even if the suspension isn't topped out, you will still vary the amount of negative travel. You will notice a difference between 1 cm and 7 cm of negative travel when it comes to absorbing dips. A huge difference.
Agreed. Not topping out the suspension hard in big dips will make quite a difference in how it feels. 7 cm is not a realistic number though - that would certainly lead to bottoming under braking or even hard cornering, if you could even achieve that much sag.
IMHO ... the type of springs (straight/double/triple/progressive rate) also affects how dips and bumps are felt
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given if the max load of both tire and suspension is X thru a specific corner
if you overload ( X+1 ) , then yes.better tires and tuned suspension based on rider weight helps alot imho. (makes the x value larger)
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Nice writeup everyone
I learned something and IMHO Mr Peachy , if you want to know how suspension in world class racing is set up and its effects, the Honda RS125R / CBR1000RR suspension guide is here for your viewing
http://www.risingsuncycles.com/bikespecific/suspension.htm -
the G circle mention helps alot on how to trail brake correctly
imho a rider is only as skilled as his weakest skill ; filling in and correcting weakness makes one a better overall rider imho -
So probably time to upgrade my math, then
well better late than never
How Important Is Dirt Training For A Racer?
in Cornering and Techniques
Posted
I rather talk to Casey Stoner if you ask me. Also 4 world titles.
But of course if you wanna be more scientific , I would love to interview all world champs who had dirt track experience , a broader view across never hurts