aslcbr600

I am interested to hear how the race school is as well! I am attending the level 1 class at streets of willow oct 27th, cant wait!

I am in the U.S. and from what I was told on another forum your pit crew has to be wearing full fire gear for refueling a hot bike in the pit lanes. Of course every organization will be a little different but maybe sprint racing is the best way to start out then since it's more cut throat and forces you to get in there and be aggressively controlled in your passing and cornering.

I haven't seen a stationary bike that has moving arms? That sounds interesting.....what is the specific muscle that cycling works that makes it beneficial to riding? I don't know what my deal is but I feel so stiff and off balance on a regular bike.....it's annoying, not sure why that is? I never used to be that way. Tomorrow I am going to take a break from running and focus on upper body and abs, I ran 4.08mi yesterday and 4.26mi today and my thighs are feeling it.

Would you say endurance racing would be more beneficial to a novice rider then say a 25min 21 lap race? I would think more time on the track and learning tire management would be far superior for a novice in endurance racing vs a shorter race. What does it take to have an endurance team?

Yea I just hate having to be on the bike so long to get a good workout in. 4mi of running gets done in less then an hour and in that time you are burning way more calories. What about leg workouts, say squats for example....do you want to do more muscle building or more cardio type lifting such as lighter weight but with more reps? Being a sportbike rider you want to be fit but not big.

Wouldn't reducing the lean angle required for the turn be beneficial in both of these situations ? Yes I would say so. I am guessing I didn't answer the question right lol.

What do you guys do for physical fitness to keep from being tired on the track? You have a day for qualifying and then the next day for the actual race. For you serious racers out there what do you for workouts? Right now I have just been running and doing some kickboxing drills in the basement with the heavy bag. Better fit the better you can ride I would imagine.....besides who wants to buy new 1pc suits all the time lol

A double apex turn or wet pavement would be my best answer.

Ah ok so I had the meaning of quick turn wrong it's not to turn in as early as possible but to have a later apex and more drive. I suppose with track time experience will make you learn when to quick turn and when not to. Makes sense that at higher speeds you wont be able to quick turn the bike so you would have to trail it into the turn. So for qualifying purposes you would want to use the quick turn method and follow your qualifying lines......then when actually racing to keep people from coming alongside or passing you wouldn't quick turn because you want to block those race lines?

Ok I think I may have got the understanding but there is a question I have. Lazy turning is defined as slowly leaning the bike into the turn correct? Now quick turn is to turn in as early as possible and get to your lean angle faster so you can get back on the throttle correct? My question is if you are to turn in as early as possible to get back on the gas, how are you to know if you are lazy turning or quick turning? Take for instance the GP guys seem to be more on the lazy cornering then the quick cornering until they hit the chicanes then they are flicking that thing side to side very quickly! Am I getting quick turn mixed up with quick flick?

Yea I stopped using the rear brake, just seems pointless to use it once you get the grasp of just using the front brake. I have been working on the flow of it but I catch myself braking too hard too early when I could have carried that speed further. Just takes practice but now I have to learn on a different bike. Just got rid of the 06 600RR and looking at a track prepped 07 675.

Nice input, I like the idea of another person giving you a random time to break. Seems like that would be an awesome practice method! I did watch that race and noticed they weren't pushing nearly as hard.

So what about wet racing applications? What would change in a wet race vs a dry race?

Sweet, wish I could go out and practice emergency braking more but my bike is in the shop.

Let's just keep it as normal tires such as you had a set of Michellin power pures

I have no problems riding in the rain, it doesn't scare me it just makes me become that much better of a rider. One thing I have really been thinking about is braking in wet conditions at highway speeds or even faster for track riding. I haven't ridden hard in the rain just casual commuting so I will go off this example of my experience that leads me to the question. When going down the highway and it's raining, not crazy hard but hard enough where you have to tuck in and keep your face shield as clear as possible. I add an extra gap between myself and the vehicle in front of me however in the back of my mind I am thinking "what happens if the car in front of me starts to break hard"? From what I read on how to ride in the rain on the streets is your best bet is to follow the tire marks the car in front of you is leaving because that tends to be the dryer spot on the road and less chance of oils being in those spots forcing you to lose grip. So let's say you are in an emergency braking situation or even just have to brake hard and the roads are this wet, what exactly do you do to keep yourself from getting too squirly and losing control? I would expect some rear tire movement but is there a trick to it? Now let's put it in the track perspective, I would assume you would chose an earlier braking marker then you would on dry pavement but is there anything more to it then just adding more distance before the turn? What if you found yourself entering a corner a little too hot for comfort in the rain?

Yea I realized that is my best bet. Just replace the shock with another used OEM one and save my money for a dedicated bike. I am thinking about building a bike from the ground up but that may end up costing more then just buying a used track bike. I have seen some pretty good deals on bikes for 7k and comes with another brand new motor plus some other extras as well. Only time will tell but I have to keep my CBR for the street because I don't want track days to be the only time I can ride so it totally makes sense to keep it street trim. Thanks everyone for all of your input!

Thanks for the input, I looked on ebay and yea I found some rear shocks going for pretty cheap! I think my best bet is to just keep up on the maintenance of this bike and use it as my street rider/ occasional track day until I can save up enough money for my dedicated track bike.

I don't work for free, what I mean by that is yea I could get a stock shock for 100.00 let's say but then how does it pay me back for the effort? I have no added performance, it's just maintenance at that point. So with adding the cost of upgraded suspension, rotors, pads, brake lines, ect it adds up pretty quickly and this is why I am just on the verge of selling it because I bought the bike for 6k (I know over paid but lesson learned) and then to throw in another couple grand would push this up to what I would pay for a trade in with my bike for a 2012 CBR1000RR! Sure eventually I would have to upgrade the 2012 but hell I would have a heck of a lot more performance for my money for a long time before having the skill to max out such a nicely setup bike from the factory. I work at a motorsports shop so I get great deals on parts and deals on bikes, I don't know it's such a toss up!

*Sigh* Now I just really want to sell it and get a bike with much fewer miles already setup for track!

Awesome thanks!

Interesting, never heard any recommendations about the rear shock being worn out.......

I am looking at possibly buying a dedicated 2007 Triumph 675 track bike. In one of the reviews I read it said that the 675 was allowed in competitive races in the supersport class but then was looked at as being an unfair advantage since the fact it has an additional 75cc's. Now is this only for pro level racing such as AMA, WSBK or even for the local trackday races also? I just don't want to spend the money on a track bike I can only do trackdays with and not competitively race it eventually.

Good job man! Mulholland is no joke....

That's the brake *fluid* boiling, not expansion of the brake lines. Rubber lines give a vaguer feel; bad fluid saps stopping power. Oh ok I stand corrected, thanks!