Pepsi Drinker

Set the crank to the case split then install the cams- there are factory "tolerances" and I have seen cam timing vary by more than 3-4* on the same year and model of bikes, So if the marks on your cam sprockets are off by what seems like 1/4 to 1/2 tooth I would not be surprised. Cams down but not torqued, is the tensioner fully tensioned?...minor difference but it is a difference Once you have it all together and think it is correct (as it can be) rotate the engine over by hand a few rotations and make sure. The best choice would be to actually pull out a degree wheel and piston stop and set it up and see what the cam timing is actually at and adjust as necessary- but that is not always necessary or practical, especially if you "just" adjusted valves or some other mundane service work on an engine you know to run good. On the other hand if you just rebuilt the engine or milled the head or did some other performance work that could/would decrease piston to valve clearance I would definately check, set cam timing and piston to valve clearance. FWIW.

I too am on a pretty tight budget so I run the stock tires until they are to the wear bars. I do make numerous changes to the suspension early on to get it to where it is the best it can be with stock components. But once I can upgrade some parts; suspension is #1 Since I am a mechanic, and my bike has carburetors as have most all the bikes i have owned, jetting, and better tuning has always been very high on the list. Tires are simply a wear out consumable-so I don't look at those as a mod. I typically run all the different tires available at one point or another for more knowledge of the varying products available. But there have been a few I have really liked better than others and run those more often and more regularly.

Sorry the measurements didn't line up like it did when I typed it up...You'll have to use a little connect the dots to see the comparison figures.

As far as size, it appeared (comparing a brand new mounted set of Q3 vs a 1200 mile set of Q2, both on 5.5" inch rims & 180/55-17 for the rear and 120/70-17 on 3.5" rims for the front) that width wise they were the same section width sidewall height tread width circumference weight tread depth tire 122.7mm 22mm 165mm 1892mm 9.13lbs 4/32 Q2 120/70-17 122.8mm 22.5mm 168mm 1898mm 9.10lbs 4/32 Q3 120/70-17 188.5mm 33mm 238mm 2018mm 13.9lbs 6/32 Q2 180/55-17 188.8mm 34mm 243mm 2025mm 13.0lbs 6.5/32 Q3 180/55-17 Section width--straight across from outside edge of tire to outside edge of tire sidewall height-- from the lip of the rim ot where the tread surface starts Tread width-- wrapped around the curvature of the tire from edge to edge Tread depth--measured to the wear bar These are by no means scientific measurements as the rim design could be slightly different between the two motorcycles (CBR600F-3 and ZX6R), air pressures may have been set differently by a couple psi. Then of course one set was used for about 1200 miles. Then the scale used for weighing them was simply a kitchen scale that only goes up to 15 lbs and the accuracecy of said scale is suspect. I took the average of the weighings-as the scale varied by a couple tenths on subsequent weighings (brand new un-used tires were weighed) You can actually feel the rear Q3 is noticeably lighter than the same size rear Q2 just picking them up, I was suprised the difference didn't weigh out to be more significant (not that nearly a full pound of mass that far from the axle isn't significant)

Spec tires that the oem motorcycle manufacturers have purpose built for a bike are vastly different from the aftermarket tires, even of the same name. So I bet your past experience with Q2's is more what you would again experience with Q2's or the new Q3's vs what you experience now with oe original spec tires on your new bike.

Tech was pretty basic and at VIR many rode right from the street onto the track without any tape except on the speedo that the tech guy/girl put there. So I wouldn't get too ansy or worry too much about tech inspection. As long as you have decent tread, no leaks, the bike appears to be in good safe. rideable condition you will be fine. But if bringing two bikes is easy, it can't hurt to have a back up just in case you have a mechanical or worst case scenario do fall. Personally I would ride the 05, for that "just in case" but I took my only bike to VIR and take that same bike to all "trackday" events as well. I worry more about others crashing into me than myself falling down. But anyone can make a mistake it's a risk vs reward thing. These were just my observations, take it for what it is worth. Personally I removed mirrors etc because just in case can get expensive quickly, small pieces at a time still add up.

Thank you, that is what I was looking for.

Is the school running Q3's on their bikes yet? I am just seeing if mileage, traction, profile etc has been noticeably or dramatically different from the Q2.

Torque wrench as a hammer; A very expensive hammer and quite ineffective too, IMO. I question all my torque wrenches when I send them out yearly/bi-yearly for the lessor used and get them back. What did they really do for my $120.00? Just once I would like to see where they really are at and how they actually adjust them if they did need recalibrating. Then atleast I could feel good about the expense instead of wondering if I am just throwing away money. Occassionally I have gone out on the snap on truck with one or more of them and "compared" it to one of the brand new still on the truck ones, but how well have those been calibrated? Well they do have the certificate saying they are calibrated ~shrug~ Yes i am a little skeptical in life.

As said start with making sure the tires, tire pressures and suspension (mechanicals of the bike as a whole) are all set up properly and working as they should. Steering head bearings not too tight, too loose, too dry etc... Since everyones definition of "upping the pace" in the twisties will vary. Are we talking double the posted, double plus 10, double plus 20, triple the posted and how are you entering them? Fast in the straights and hard on the brakes to get down to entry speed or do you "pace" ride and keep the speeds more stationary on the straights and use the brakes more lightly/not at all to set entry speed? Finally which tires do you have on? St tires have a bit flatter profile than sport tires and as such don't turn in as quickly or as easily. But the profile varies from brand to brand and tire model to tire model. Although I don't think any of the tires that one would put on that bike would give the side effects you describe if properly installed and inflated.

I have never had to file personally....But I have friends with Statefarm who have and they have paid (plus gear and accesories) without any fuss or hassle. You may have to ask your insurance agent what sort of rider policy would cover this (if you plan to stay with them). If they have any, otherwise you may have to get on the phone for another company

One of my long time goals of revisiting CSS happened at VIR this past May. Did levels 1/2 Next on the list, attend again and do level 3/4 After that, we'll have to see but I am hoping/expecting that many more times with CSS is in the works.

^ that is an exellent response...

My distributor said I'll have them in my hand on June 13th. Of course they had given me a date on the Q2 that ended up being 10 days off, so. I take it with a grain of salt but I have my order in none the less and will test them rigorously on both track and street this summer.

Did you do a cylinder leakage test before tearing it apart? Or check valve clearances first?

VIR May 13/14.

We agree but in different ways perhaps? The Q2 is better for street riding and the D211GPA is better for serious trackdays and racers. Had I left it at that would there be any disagreement? I have ridden both tires in a variety of conditions both on the track and on the street. I never said the 211 would take longer to reach the same temp as a Q2, but the temperature where the GPA will shine at vs where the temperature the Q2 will shine is higher (atleast according to the local Dunlop guy and my experience) so sure it would take longer to get each tire into its optimal range, how much longer-who knows.(perhaps this is one of the reasons the GPA's run so much lower tire pressures than the Q2 and perhaps that is the equalizer in how long they take to warm to there optimal range?) It has been my experience that on the street the Q2 is far superior to the 211. Of course perhaps road conditions, temperatures, riding styes etc... in your area or experience would prove a different outcome. Thus your difference of opinion and experience. Here locally quite often I leave the house and it is in the 20's, 30's or 40's and except for about 3 months out of the year I rarely see high temps out of the 60's or low 70's. So by far the majority of my street riding miles has ambient temps well below 70 degrees and likely the vast majority of my miles may even be below 60 degrees, which may be about the threshold where the GPA feels about the same as the Q2. I did wear out a brand new set of GPA's in Arkansas in 1100 miles, whereas a trip to Arkansas the year prior on Q2's netted me 1280 miles in Arkansas plus another 2500 miles on those tires locally. On the track, I did wear out a set a 211GPA's in 400 miles on our little 1.2+/- mile 26 turn "track" (see attached pic) and a set of Q2's in 320 miles on the same track under similar conditions 1.0+/- mile 22 turn layout (see attached pic) running similar paces on both, not race pace but "fast" (1:19-1:20 in the long layout and 1:12-1:14 in the shorter layout, for comparison the "fast" riders/instructors/control riders/racers on the short layout rarely run sub 1:10) My point-I can see where you say the GPA's last longer on the track compared to a Q2, but I can buy Q2's for about 1/2 the cost of 211's, for me 2 sets of Q2's will outlast one set of GPA's by a large margin ~640 miles vs 400 miles~and since I am not racing or trying to set any lap records, I find a better value in the Q2 both on the street and the track. Perhaps if I was trying to set some lap records I may change my view on the track? Perhaps if I was going to a "real" racetrack my view would be different. I ran S20's at VIR with CSS a couple weeks ago, perhaps next visit I will run one of the Dunlops for a better review. In the end I was simply giving my viewpoint. A track designed tire should be used on the track, a street designed tire should be used on the street. Advising any differently I find a bit ill advised, especially on this forum.

The Penske 8983 is an excellent shock. I think @ $850 set up for you is a great deal stock shocks are typically emulsion shocks (fluid and air/nitrogen can mix) aftermarket shocks are typically not....rubber bladder seperates the fluid from the air/nitrogen which keeps them more consitant. If it has a remote resevoir it typically is not an emulsion shock

I have used many different brands over the past 30+ years and have seen protection evolve drastically over that time frame. My current suits, an AGVSport Imola one-piece and an AGVSport two piece. it is funny becasue my two piece is a 42 jacket and a 30 pant and despite both being the same model and brand-the zippers go opposite directions-and while the pants did come with both sides to the zipper, I still had to go out and have the zipper of the coat removed and then this other half installed at extra expense- These are my daily riding attire and I can easily fit a sweatshirt and long underwear etc under these and still not be restricted too much in movement...my two piece is now 4 years old and has seen about 60,000 miles of use (and yes it did stretch and get looser despite the fact I gained some weight in that time frame) My one piece IMola, It is a size 48, the legs are too long as are the sleeves, so I will get those both shortened....Day one of riding in it I couldn't get it over my shoulders myself, the 6 or seven times I pulled the top half back on I had to find someone to tug it up over my shoulders....Day two of ridng in it, about half way through the day I tried again to get it over my sholders by myself and found that I could...It is tough but it is possible and now I can not have to consider finding help or leaving the jacket portion up all day...So I feel it did stretch some but certainly not much. I have had a low side in my 2 piece at about 45 mph and only very minor scuffing to the left forearm and outer knee and hip area-no tears, no torn threads and I still wear it today just as it is. In the past I have had a Z Custom suit-from the early 90's-It din't offer nearly as much protection as either of these, but I have not seen what their current suits are like.........I was extremely satisfied with customer service and the suit as a whole when I wore it for 10 years of racing and street riding. It was never rash tested I had a few different Dianese suits in the 80's- they didn't crash well at all. But as I said suits have evolved alot since then and no doubt they are much better quality now I also ran a Fieldsheer suit for one racing season, it was on par with the Dianese but the fit wasn't as good For about 6 years of strictly street riding (perhaps 125,000 miles worth) I wore an Alpinestar jacket and pants ~they did not zip together~again they were never crash tested and they did loosen up significantly. Enough so to the point I ended up buying an AGVSport 2 piece in smaller sizing expecting them to stretch some (and they did) and retiring the Alpinestar jacket and pants and eventually giving them to another rider who didn't have gear. I did find that some of the stitching around the elbow and shoulder armour had started to come loose-break. I also was never able to get the shoulder protectors exactly where I wanted them-although they were "close enough". All my suits and jacket pants have seen countless times in the rain, been thrown on the ground, put away wet, exposed to tons of sunlight and I have rarely ever done any leather treatments on any of them, usually the most they would see for care was some dish soap on a wet wash cloth the clean off the bugs (sometimes I had to use a small nylon brush to scrub) and wiped dry with a towel~which likely didn't help the leather at all, but it did remove the bugs~ I do have customers with $2000+ suits from A*, Held and others and I do have customers with Route21 $400 suits or Pilot $700 suits, my take on them.....they all do about the same thing with about the same level of protection, some fit thinner builds better, some fit more "american" builds better...The leather quality seems about the same as does the armour-much of the cost difference is once you get into kevlar thread instead of nylon, kevlar backed stiching vs no backing, name brand, design, Ti shoulder, elbow and knee exterior protectors or not, knox armour inside or something less, kangaroo or all cowhide, stretch panels-kevlar based or teramid, soft cuffs and collar or the leather is simply folded over and sewn. There are lots of high quality suits to chose from and price is not always an indicator of its quality. Plenty of good suits to be had for under $1000. Attend CSS and get a discounted price on AGVSport suits & gloves, SIDI boots etc....definitley helps if you are in the market anyways.

No chicken strip days....lol But yes every spring a designate a few days to braking, evasive manuevering etc...usually in a parking lot that still has some snow and ice areas. But every time I go out on a ride I think about my riding techniques and often find myself concentrating on one or more of them for part or most of a ride.

I hate to disagree with a Dunlop rep but............. On the track.... I think this much depends on the pace one rides at, if you are 'slow" and most riders are, a Q2 or the new Q3 may be all the tire you would need on the track. Sure if you can get enough heat in the tire, the 211GPA would be a better tire but the Q2/Q3 will operate in a much wider temperature range and certainly would be better the out lap and in any cooler conditions or in the wet. On the street....For sure a Q2/Q3 would be far superior to a 211GPA, unless of course you treat the road as your racetrack and ride in a manner joe public would surely see as reckless. There simply is no way to keep a GPA in that much narrower optimal temperature zone where the tire is working at its best on the street whereas the Q2 for sure (and likely the Q3) have a much broader temperature range where they will work in the upper 90% of their traction capabilities. One could get all technical and ask; -is the GPA at 75%? of its potential better than a Q2/Q3 at 90-95%? of its potential? ( I typically see street tires run at no more 130-140* temperature and often times not even that high in the spring/fall....Seems a GPA is optimal in the 176* range) -At what temperature point does the GPA overtake the traction capabilities of the Q2/Q3? 140*, 150*, 160*, 170*? - How do you ride? -What is the surface temperature of the roads you ride on? -How abrasive are the roads? -Do you ride the street like a race (hard braking, hard acceleration etc...) I simply find it ill advised to run any tire with such a narrow temperature range of being "good" on the street when that temperature range is far above what you likely will be able to achieve......without breaking every law on the books and riding like a total tool...just my opinion All that said, can a person successfully ride GPA's on the street.......or while they are cold....most certainly, but the tire will not be anywhere near its optimal temperature which also means it won't be near its optimal grip. So how much confidence is that going to inspire? How much of your preverbial $10 of attention are you now going to spend wondering, stressing, worrying about tire grip?

DUNLOPTIRESCHANNEL on youtube also has a few videos with commentary on them...

In light of how Kevin Schwantz was treated in the entire COTA deal- I refuse to participate in anything to do with that track ! Including watching any race held there or attending any event there. Since I "know" (as in met him selveral times, ridden with him several times and have followed his career since the 80's) I may be biased, but I definately support Kevin not COTA or anyone associated with that track. I think the GP racers should have walked from that race in Support of Kevin and made a real point. ON another point made above- Streets rents for $3250 a day, that seems like a pretty good deal compared to what is in MN

^ I thought the same thing while reading that reply...

Carbon fiber technology in the sidewall. Fewer grooves www.dunlopmotorcycle.com sorry I couldn't link right to the page with all the details about it.