Hotfoot
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Posts posted by Hotfoot
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If it is still on your mind when you get to L4, bring it up in your beginning of the day survey or discussion with your L4 consultant.
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Let's focus on a single corner to work on. Pick the one that seems the most off to you on entry speed. Recall your approach to the turn - what are you looking at, and for how long? Were you able to do the wide view drill at your school, and were you able to maintain your wide view consistently for that particular turn?
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Where in the corner do you feel like your speed is the farthest off compared to other riders? At the entry, middle or end?
Have you, when you tried to increase speed, had any bad result (other than worry), like running wide?
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On 5/8/2017 at 9:06 PM, powayTom said:
So too slow a rate prevents you from obtaining the 40/60 distro. Chopping mid corner would seem to be much, much worse since that is an immediate uneven transfer of rear to front. The chop would also compress the front fork and lower the rear and create a pogo when you did start to roll on again. Thank you HotToes.
Yep. Good understanding! If you have the Twist II DVD there is also a good illustration on there showing the effect on the front tire when you abruptly chop the throttle. Regarding your other question about the quote in Twist II on throttle control - I don't really know the answer on that one, I want to get that info from Keith or Dylan or Cobie but they are on the road at schools right now so I'm not sure when I will hear back. I'll post up when I have the info for you, or one of them will. It could be that he was referring to bikes that may have jerked a bit when the throttle was first applied, as opposed to our newer 1000cc bikes that have a much more predictable and smooth throttle response.
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Here is the website for eTech Photo:
You can browse through your photos online (it may take a little time for them to get uploaded if your school was just yesterday) and there are ordering instructions on the site.
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53 minutes ago, powayTom said:
Question relating to roll-on/off. Keith states in Wrist II that when you "slow the basic throttle roll-on through a turn, it costs time and stability". Just so I am not over-thinking this. Is it correct to say that if I am following the throttle rule, and my rate of roll-on is too slow, that I can negatively affect my stability the same as if I stopped the roll-on or rolled off?
If your roll on is too slow you would not be optimizing the weight distribution for the best possible traction, and suspension efficiency. But, if you compare that to chopping the throttle mid corner, which do you think would have a greater effect? What would happen to the weight distribution between front and rear tires? How would it affect your suspension?
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What a great post! Love hearing this, glad to hear you were able to take your CSS training and run with it the way you have.
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I think he was asking you, since you brought up the topic.
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1 hour ago, DLHamblin said:
I think the current 4-strokes are easier to ride at the edge and live to tell the tale where the 2-strokes bit without warning.
This is a very good point, the power band for two strokes is a much different curve, the power hits really hard and it is not nearly as linear as current 4-stroke bikes. Tires are better, too, more predictable. Just those two factors alone probably make a big difference on being able to slide and wiggle a lot without actually crashing, compared to the older 500Gp bikes. And that's before even taking into account the advancements in suspension and frames.
I do agree that they are really riding on the edge - I am always amazed, watching the races, how far they are willing to push those bikes.
Maybe the better safety gear is a factor, too, keeping those bravest-of-the-brave riders in the game, rather than suffering injuries that limit or end their riding careers.
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Glad you guys cleared this up, that definitely sounded odd to me too.
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I put one on my ZX6R and really liked it. My reason for doing it was range of motion, the stock throttle turned so far, that to get it pinned that I had to re-position my hand in the middle of the roll on OR start out with my hand in a weird forward position to get enough travel to get from full-off to full-on. For street it was a total non-issue but for track riding it was a pain, so I switched to a throttle with a shorter travel and it worked great. I did not find it overly sensitive and easily adjusted to it. It really didn't seem much more "quick" than the stock one, I had no trouble with that at all.
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A small dirt bike is a great way to get comfortable with bike control, using the clutch and brakes on a bike, and shifting. Look for a dirt riding instruction course, or a go-kart track that allows minis or small dirt bikes, that way you can get BOTH bike experience and track experience. Leaning how to manage the controls is the tough part - once a rider can comfortably start and stop, shift, use the clutch and brake, and ride around at 25 mph, adding speed is really not very difficult. We certainly have riders come to school that start out worried about speed but very quickly get comfortable with it, once they have some education about how to control the bike and have certainty about what it is going to do.
I would send a relatively inexperienced to a school - ANY school - LONG before I would send them to an open trackday. Those can be VERY intimidating, and not all are well controlled. Generally the staff and other riders at a school are more accommodating and welcoming for inexperienced riders, take more time to acclimate them to the rules, etc. You should research the trackday org very thoroughly before you send someone with little riding experience and make sure they are open to that - some organizations are, but many are not - and make sure there is some good classroom instruction for newbies to give the rider an understanding of racetrack safety and etiquette (not just a 10 minute riders meeting) , and someone to help if the rider is having trouble getting around the track in control of the bike.
Distractions like cars and dogs and kids and distracted drivers is a whole other thing - way scarier than riding on a racetrack, if you ask me.
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That's a track question, CSS is certainly fine with it. Check the VIR website for detailed info on camping options:
http://virnow.com/lodging/camping/
or here for really detailed info on policies and rules:
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Dave Moss
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What were you going for when re-covering the seat? More grip, or less? Or were you reshaping them?
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I really like how you can see how the bar movement correlates to bumps - you can see the camera (and sometimes the rider) bounce a little from a bump and you can see how the bars wiggle to compensate as the tire and suspension deal with the bump. He definitely does a great job staying loose and letting the bike do its job!
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3 hours ago, BikeSpeedman said:
Thanks for inspiring me to look deeper!
Okay, so shortly after our conversation, I began to test rear edge grip coming out of the corners. I had a lot more grip/drive than I had given my bike credit for. The front did feel a little unstable but the rear was hooked up. I got home and noticed the rear was chewed up and went to the very edge. Weird for road riding bc I wasn't leaning any more than I had been. I'm guessing just an issue of putting more load on the rear squishing the tire more and getting the contact patch all the way to the edge.
Anyway, I remembered your post and started looking for info about improving drive out of corners. It was recommended to bump up the reb and comp in the front to keep the front from lifting under throttle. I started there (2 clicks up from my baseline and equal to Triumph's recommended Race setting). The difference was amazing. So much more stability and control. It feels so good now.
But then last night, I took a look at my rear shock settings. I was in full comfort mode in the rear, 5 or 6 clicks from Race. So I decided to give it a shot and had my first chance to test it on the way to work this morning. It feels fantastic. Can't wait to get back on the track and
beat Josh Hayes.survive in the B group without getting run over.
What a great post! Lots of good info in here and I am really glad you are experimenting and exploring - sounds like you are approaching it in a very smart way, working on your throttle control first, then changing one thing at a time on the bike to feel the difference each change makes. A lot of riders try changing a bunch of things all at once (different tires or tire pressure, and multiple suspension changes all at once), you are smart to take that systematic approach and notice - and write down! - the difference from each change. Well done and thank you for sharing, this was very interesting to read.
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Sure, go for it.
Or you can start a new thread if you want.
It can be hard to correlate video to maps - sometimes what looks like one turn in the video shows as two on the map, especially if the rider rides them as one big arc. T2 and T3 on this video sorta-kinda shows that - you can see a second X to show the second turn point but the rider takes a smooth arcing line so you don't really see a straight section on the video in between the turns, even though on the map you can see one. IMO maps should show obvious landmarks, like bridges that cross over the track and large outbuildings or grandstands that are easily seen when riding.
And, of course, elevation changes don't show on a flat line map, but there are some cool elevation maps for some tracks, I think the Barber website has one, they make the track look like a roller coaster.
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If you mean where on the map, it is between turns 6 and 7. If you mean where in the video briang posted it is at 0.55 in the video, and again at 2:40. :).
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My preference with my outside foot is to put the ball of my foot on the peg and drive my heel up into the heel guard which helps stabilize my lower leg. I have small feet and can't reach the heelguard if I slide my foot down to the arch/instep.
When I began coaching I started to REALLY notice it when a rider would come by me on the freeway with their toes sticking way down past the peg. I know it's probably more comfortable for long rides but it sure does catch my attention.
What about dirt riding? For those of you that do any dirt riding, where do you put your feet?
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Definitely the main reason to put the balls of your feet on the pegs is to avoid dragging your toes or catching your toe on inside curbing.
It does also make it easier to do a calf raise to drive your knee up into the tank for a secure hold.
I'm going to speculate here - the racers that have the outside foot arch on the peg may be holding on more with their upper inner thigh which might make the outside foot rotate out a little, making it hard to keep the ball of the foot on the peg without slipping off.
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On 3/28/2017 at 2:47 PM, BikeSpeedman said:
Mini Moto has to be pretty cheap.
BTW a while back I found a mini moto coach and kept his info with the plans of taking my boy. After I tried to reconnect, it appears he's gone. Any of you guys or gals know of a way to get a kid started in mini moto around here?
Where is "around here?"
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Yes, that got fixed! I liked your post.
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Since you are looking into traction at varying lean angles, you may want to read about the current race tires, there is so much interesting information out there about the shape of the contact patch when leaned over, and the amount of grip available at various lean angles (given good track conditions and correct tire temperature), it is astonishing to look at what a full race tire can do, and to learn about the differences in profiles and compounds of street versus race tires, and compare longevity versus grip versus price and versatility... there's a lot to know, and the type of tire makes an appreciable difference in the amount one can drive when leaned over.
So does good suspension, so if you get bored reading about tires you can always start investigating the intricacies of suspension tuning. In that arena I always feel like the more I learn the more I realize how MUCH MORE there is to learn!
Speed & The Line
in Cornering and Techniques
Posted
Well, don't' know if you will see this in time, but I'd say focus on the RESULT you want (quicker lap time, or better entry speed, whatever) and communicate THAT and let the coach and consultant worry about helping you figure out which technique(s) to use to achieve that.
Dropping 13s with steady drops in each session sounds AWESOME, really glad to hear you are getting good results, sounds like great fun and I wish I was there riding today too!!