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2015 S1000Rr

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I recently was able to experience the race vs stock thing myself. The difference is pretty mind blowing. I rode all day on my stock 2014 S1000RR and someone dropped a race prepared S1000RR off at my pit and insisted I try it for a few laps. I made the mistake of previously saying "I would not have the skill to notice the differences" when they suggested upgrades for my bike, and they got a kick out of proving me wrong. I was EXTREMELY nervous heading out as it was my first time on slicks and the bike was not mine. I certainly noticed on the first corner and all of the "be careful this is not your bike" flew right out the window by the 3rd corner. It was awesome in every way but turn in and cornering was mind blowing. Getting back on my bike was a bit of an adjustment. A bike that had amazed me with it's handling previously seemed to be heavy and hard to steer after the ride on the correctly setup one.


Stock bikes are setup for street use and a wide variety of rider skill. Race prepared bikes don't have to make those street and rider skill compromises. One of the things I really admire about my 2014 is how you can ride it fast at the track and how absolutely composed and sedate it is on the street. Going to a full race setup you would loose a lot of that street composure.


I read that article as well and it was interesting to see how the different setups changed the bike so dramatically.


If someone gives you the opportunity to ride a bike that's been correctly setup do it. It's not only a lot of fun but it's a huge learning experience. Be warned though it's an expensive ride. You will instantly want all of that setup work and special parts on your machine.

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The rev matching part is very interesting.Soon the S1000RR maybe the weapon of choice for everyone.


Have to see what the 2015 R1 delivers though.



Info about the 2015 YZF-R1 and R1M here



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I don't have a lot of info on the bike since I only spent a short time with it. From what I understand there were geometry changes and it was equipped with Ohlins suspension. I don't know any specifics about the suspension setup such as models or tuning. The bike was equipped with the Akro TI race system and BMW HP race ECU and had the RCK2. It was putting out well over 200hp. Setting it in rain mode (yes I was pretty intimidated) was like setting it to Race mode on mine. The bike was on carbon wheels and Pirelli race slicks. I have seen the bike before at the track on forged wheels so I'm sure they get swapped depending on need.


I had always been of the school of thought that only professional racers could take advantage of the "little differences" that you see on a bike like this. I was completely and absolutely wrong on both of those views. Even a regular rider like myself can feel the changes and they aren't subtle differences. Something to keep in mind though is even with a well tuned bike putting a rider like myself on it is not going to win you any races. It's not just the bike. It's the combination of bike and rider.

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Curious...what were the major modifications that were made ? I can imagine that all the fairing would make it lighter...then maybe better suspensions ? I am curious...


Most race preped bikes have these (usually )...


Tires : slicks and sharper tire profiles make handling vastly different.


Unspring weight : magtek/CNC/carbon rims (1-3 pounds per rim) , lighter brake discs frond AND rear (0.3-0.7 pounds per disc), whole brembo race caliper set (0.2- 0.8 pounds per caliper)


Suspension : Ohlins TTX series mechatronic with dual way semi active suspension (both compression and rebound adjustments on the fly , the 2014 HP4 "only" has OTF compression damping adjustments)


Geometry : higher rear with lowered front makes steering easier at higher speeds (read : track) , but will be overly sensitive on street speeds (As what Rchase said, there is a tradeoff )


Electronics : Power commander /bazazz tuning makes 200HP easliy with dyno tuning and race fuel , custom TC maps based on GPS data /sections of the track makes the bike switch to the optimum amount of power/ tc mode for said corner

Misc: lithium battery for another 1.5-3 pounds off , race fairings without lights and signals = at least 3 pounds off , whole engine rebuilds with race spec parts...


And then you can get a custom tuned frame ( *cough kalex/suter ) wihich is essentially just the "stock" motor and fairing in a different bike... (*cough moto 2)


All of them are tools to track day victories/ podiums but needs time and effort to accustomize/optimize ; you are not going to be a god at the track simply by bolting everything I listed on your bike... Practice still makes perfect


You can easily blow 2-20 times the price of the bike on the parts, esp the frame ~ Thats why racers get sponsors.

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To echo the fact about raising the rear: One suspension tuner at the track flipped the eccentric link at the top of the shock and wow, that made it super-easy to turn, but boy, it wanted to just fall into corners on the street. I had to flip it back to be able to safely ride to work. Very unstable there, but awesome on track. So that's one simple thing you can play with.

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One suspension tuner at the track flipped the eccentric link at the top of the shock


What is this? Could you explain?

multi link shocks have many parts and one of the link parts on the shock/suspension assembly is called the "eccentric link" , flipping it simply means the charateristics of the shock is flipped "upside down" , the low and hi speed compression/rebound damping characteristics are "flipped" , so instead of a slightly understeering bike at low speed, he got an oversteering bike at low speeds (but steers fantastically at race pace)




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That sounds insane. Not saying it's false, just absolutely weird. If it altered ride height and/or spring/damping curve, I could understand it. But I cannot see how it's possible to flip the damper characteristics other than making it more or less progressive. Could be I have stuff to learn.

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My husbands S1000rr had the link flipped also, on his 2010 model. My understanding is it changes the geometry a bit - the main reason it was done on his bike was to help keep the front wheel down under heavy acceleration. I'm told Jeremy Toye designed something (a special part) for the same purpose, you can see it on Lee's Cycle.

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No, as per the pic I posted, you turn the small eccentric upside down. This forces the back of the bike up about 4mm or so, which I believe results in a 1mm change in trail. So you get a bit faster steering at the expense of some "stability". As I mentioned, when I had it set this way, the bike just wanted to fall into corners, which is super for track, not-so-super for street, such as a slow turn onto a side street, etc. I've not experimented with this since then, but I probably should revisit at some point. But I have too many other things to work on that don't involve the bike (i.e. my skill set).


(or are different people talking about different thing here?)

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