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  1. 2 likes
    Unit came in last Saturday. Was a good weather day so went riding of course. That evening I reviewed the instructions and on-line videos Heal Tech has. Then I began stripping of side panels, seats, fuel tank, and airbus (these steps by far are the most complicated and time consuming of the install, so if you can handle that you can install one of these). Next morning (Sunday) I spent some time deciding how to route cables and locate things. Basically you have the coil harness and module, shift rod sensor, and actual QS Easy module. The coil harness connects between spark plug ignition coils and the bikes coil harness and then to a negative ground. This then has a lead that routes back to tail section where main QS module lies. Sensor is installed on the shift rod and connected back to unit in tail section. That's it except for putting everything back on bike. Setting up and monitoring it is done through your smart phone!!! Other than the initial setup process and some playing with bike on stand, haven't gotten to ride on street as its been raining. Once I get out on road will give a report back. https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/qse/
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    I do this myself. The most useful thing that I get is the "picture in my mind" of what the track is like. One of the things I have noticed however is once you actually get there reality tends to be a little different than what you were expecting. As Hotfoot mentioned there's lots of things that don't come across in video such as elevation changes and also logistics of moving around on the bike. A really good example of this is the elevation change on the long straight at COTA. I was really looking forward to blasting down that straight at 180+mph with a gigantic smile on my face but the elevation change caused a complete lack of visibility and that does not come across very well in video. Needless to say the first few sessions I was not doing 180 due to the visibility. I actually ended up enjoying the shorter straight near start finish a lot more. Although the speed was slower having a massive up hill elevation change made it so you barely had to touch the brakes to be at the perfect speed to enter the corner at the end. It was like having your cake and being able to eat it too. All the front wheel lifting acceleration you wanted without the chore of having to get on the brakes hard. One other thing which is amusing that I have had a fun experience with. Video games. I have a video game with Road Atlanta as one of the tracks. I was able to put in blistering lap times on the video game and could not wait to ride the track. When I rode the track the reality was quite different from the simulation. I won't bore you with details but I have yet to ride Road Atlanta again despite it being so close to my house because of how horrible of an experience I had. I actually think that my game play slightly hurt my ability to learn the track with an open mind. Certainly watch the videos and study the track maps but be ready to actually learn the track by riding it yourself. Most importantly be ready to adapt when the reality becomes different than what you were expecting.
  3. 1 like
    I am working COTA MotoGP/MotoAmerica this year in flagging/communications. Arrive on Wednesday night and full schedule Thurs-Sun but lot's of fun. Then I have most of the east coast MotoAmerica races set. Being on track (well off to side of track) is definitely best seat in house.
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    It's "bad" weather when MotoGP doesn't run- Ha!
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    To get the best experience of the racing (throughout the field), watch it on the screen. But going to the track gives you an entirely different experience - the 'ambience' thing. And finally ... there's no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing!
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    In practice I feel that a higher body position causes more side movements and stress on the rear tires. The air turbulence on the upper body increases the problem. Can you imaging riding a 90mph corner with that body position? Also I'm not clear about the physics in the illustrations: in the last example I understand the center of gravity has more leverage because it's taller, but it's also farther away from the center of the tire and the bike axe. Isn't that another source of leverage that works against the bike stability?
  7. 1 like
    Both reshaping to a flatter, more horizontal shape, and more grip. Both helps me stay in place and be less likely to put unwanted weight on the bars. I used suede on my seats on top of closed cell foam, which was sanded to shape.
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    Engineers are constantly striving to move motorcycle CG lower. I'm wondering if this CG - BP issue isn't the full story.
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    I found 2 exercises made a huge difference in my ability to ride without fatigue. They're both hitting the same area so you can do either one. Romanian deadlift and back hyper-extension. You can buy a kettle bell or some dumbbells for the deadlift and do them at home. If you belong to a gym, the hyper-extension allows for greater isolation but they both work great. Start light and do 20 reps a day for a couple of weeks. I found it not only made riding easier but also improved my posture. I'm never tired, my wrists never hurt, my back is strong enough stay low and move side to side without issues. Interestingly, I my fitbit records my rides as cardio.
  10. 1 like
    Pretty dang good list from Misti, hard to top. My kids don't ride! Kids in the city these days, things are changing. I did a career day, took one of the School S1000rr's and went to my daughter's school, rode the bike right up to the classroom, and rode it down the (exterior) hallway when I left, daughter on back. The point is, aside from entertaining myself at her school, when I asked how many rode bicycles, the majority said no...wow, blew me away. CF
  11. 1 like
    When I first started riding it was intuitive to hook the heel of my boot onto the peg, right where my instep was. By my 2nd trackday I began to drag toes. I heard it repeated many times about standing on the balls of your feet and now needed to change to avoid the abovementioned problem. There's a video in YouTube of Troy Corser teaching instep and I see the merits of both techniques. Watching the Aragon WSBK race, I'm now convinced that I've seen enough that the trend is now back to insteps; possibly even hybrid method. I'm not a "me too" type of guy but it looks like Jonny Rea uses balls on the inside leg and instep on his outside leg; straightaway he's on instep. I see the merits of instep for straights, it requires less energy. My observation is that balls of feet on inside leg does 2 things: 1- Avoids above problem and 2- more leverage for countersteering. The con is that it's more to think about/do and I'd have another habit change to endure. What are your experiences with foot placement?
  12. 1 like
    Don put in a 2:00 around Thunderhill's 3 mile East on the new R6. You can watch it here: http://www.cycleworld.com/onboard-video-one-lap-aboard-2017-yamaha-yzf-r6-at-thunderhill-raceway-park?dom=rss-default&src=syn Okay, so Don is better than I am and he was following Josh Hayes who also might possibly be better than I am. The fact that his time was faster or that his speed was better than mine at every entry, apex, and exit wasn't even mildly shocking. But the lap itself taught me a lot about what I'm doing wrong. I had the benefit of his speedo throughout most of the key points on track and made notes. What I found that was actually shocking to me is how hard he accelerated while still substantially leaned over. He'd gain +20mph from apex to exit everywhere on the track. While I've been rolling on the throttle as I'm lifting the bike up, he's full throttle at pretty big lean angles. I thought that was a recipe for high sides. One thing that blows me away (I really recommend you watch it if you haven't seen it yet) is that it appears he doesn't even roll off a bit to transition from going to the exit of 14 to back into 15. He apexes 14 at 55 and assumes a constant arc that takes him to track-out at 77, back to apex of 15 at 87 and track out at 98. I'm going to start incrementally feeding in more and more gas earlier in the turn and hopefully feel the limit before being thrown off. My goal isn't to achieve Josh Hayes or Don Canet speeds but to mimic their approach as much as I can with my skill level. eg, Thinking of the how to maximize drive from the apex to fully stood up.
  13. 1 like
    There were some updates that needed doing, included some security stuff...how do you like it so far?
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    Yes, that got fixed! I liked your post.
  16. 1 like
    Hey, I finally got permission to like a post! *thumbs up*
  17. 1 like
    Not sure if you ever looked into it but it's a bike trainer where you remove your rear wheel and hook your bike directly to it. They have heavy flywheels to help mimic "road feel" and they work great when paired with an app like zwift which let's you ride "scenes" and push yourself against all the other zwifties from all over the world. That said, I found that it's still a bit of a drag to ride indoors. Better than traditional trainers but still not the same as zipping around outside in nice weather. I only used it 6 or 7 times so far. But I'm happy to say I did get back into the gym and even took a good look at my diet. In the last 4 weeks, I've dropped 10 lbs and 5" off my waist. As for riding, I've just been riding my fav mountain road to work every dry day and a few wet ones too. Looking forward to some track time. Traded in my Boxster for a tow vehicle bc riding to a track day is brutal.
  18. 1 like
    After reading reviews and actually discussing with their respective tech support, I ended up with HM and Healtech being a tie; followed by Annitori quick shifter as a close 3rd. HM has good reviews but seems more prominent in Europe and not a large dealership in US; They also were priciest for what I wanted. But they seem to have an excellent product. What they lacked that Healtech offers (and Annitori) is the ability to adjust and tune via bluetooth smartphone app; where HM you use the gearshift and an LED panel on unit. Healtech has a number of distributors in US and good pricing. Install is also very easy. What dropped Annitori to third was a number of reports of the unit misbehaving and cutting out the ignition at wrong times. The Healtech can be turned off via app, or unplugged and a jumper installed so it won't strand you. Its also VERY adjustable "if" needed. As I said, totally not needed on street but should be lots of fun.
  19. 1 like
    True, might make you faster so you can hurry up and get them off!!!
  20. 1 like
    Having watched the Qatar testing in person... (bragging, yes). Vinales definitely looked fast at the Qatar test and he has yet to crash on the Yamaha, definitely the early favorite. Ducati will be competitive at many tracks and it was visibly faster on the straight than the rest, but will Lorenzo figure out how to ride it? Rossi will figure it out & be in the hunt. The weight balance on the front of the Honda appears to favor Pedrosa so keep an eye on him early in the season. Marquez could figure out how to win on a moped. My dark horse is Iannone... fast as hell & still a little erratic but getting better, but when he adapts to the different braking on the Suzuki, he'll be a contender Bottom line, expect another fantastic season. Best racing of any kind right now. Cheers, Benny
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    I want to be you when I grow up! (minus the required sex change -LoL)
  23. 1 like
    I do it on occasion when I street ride. It mainly is just to make me feel good inside (small dose of vanity)...chasing the mental image of a guy I saw years ago get stupid low around a 90 degree corner. I don't see any downside from doing it EXCEPT the perception that you're hotdogging....and hanging-off for some reason causes the right wrist to roll on that thingy on the handlebar. You are committed to making the turn- there's no last instant change because a bozo is coming at you, must have that worked out beforehand. When I have a junior rider following me, I move over into position to signal to them that a turn is coming and I'm going that way and this much.
  24. 1 like
    Ha ok. Well the socks I'm currently wearing are samples from a manufacturer that were sent to me for testing. I have been a huge fan of bamboo and my favorite socks are no longer available. So out of sheer "being totally desparate" I'm testing out as many yarns as I can as I'd like to make my own socks specifically for riding. So far I'm on day 3 of wearing them and they still smell like roses. They are unbelievably soft as well, pretty much like walking on clouds. I'm going to wash them a number of times to see how they wear, but I've been told they stay soft just like my bamboo socks did. Another bonus, they are supposed to be extremely durable. I can show you the fabric end of this month when I'm at CSS but they will be well worn by then so beware hahah. I looked up "tencel socks" and there are a few companies that use the yarns so I think in the mean time I'll find a good company and buy my daily wearers from them. I truly don't think I can go back to pure cotton, poly, or nylon. Especially cotton.
  25. 1 like
    It's true, the modern evolution of racing pretty much demands the benefits from getting the body lowered. Real world street riding, is it even needed? Would it even come close to outweighing the minus of less ability to see? Who thinks what on this? I know I don't get that low when I street ride...
  26. 1 like
    Casey Stoner for his calm, cool demeanor Marc Marquez for his Banzai take no prisoners approach Noriyuki Haga for his ability to stalk the rear wheel of his prey Pierfranco Chili for his ability to stuff a bike in places that seem impossible Troy Corser for his doggedness Max Biaggi for bringing out some of the best battles in MotoGP with Valentino Ben Spies for ripping the WSBK paddock a new one Mat Mladin for breaking the spirit of his competitors and making the AMA officials eat face at the same time
  27. 1 like
    At Amazon they have Twist I in used but very good condition for $9.51, and Twist II for $11.98, both fulfilled by Amazon with free shipping if the order reaches $25. However, this rider needs to scrape up five more dollars than the given limit to make this purchase of both books. In speaking with my local librarian I learned that book borrowing in this area is far overshadowed by multimedia today. The person you are dealing with may be part of the generation that would tend to choose multimedia. So it may be an uphill battle pushing the book recommendation, but I personally would explain the advantages of the books that others mentioned, that they are more detailed than the videos and that they can be referred back to easily. Signed, Highly Biased Book Lover
  28. 1 like
    I agree that it's very dependent on the rider. I generally get up to (my slow) speed quickly on new tracks, whereas one of my friends need a lot of time to get used to a new track (or a good tow around). Figuring out the hooking sweeper (Turn 9) on Big Willow did require some personal tuition from Cobie though. DL: It's pretty much down to yourself. I've never taken a CSS course on a track I knew ahead of time, so I might not be the best person to answer. You could actually argue that having a new track to learn is beneficial, because you don't have old & bad habits from riding there previously
  29. 1 like
    Previewing video a solid idea. Next one could make your own drawings/maps of the references you might have/use. Twist 1 has great info on reference points and how to choose them and use them. Best, Cobie
  30. 1 like
    One thing I will mention - there is limited info available in the video above. You can hear the engine, see the rider's line and observe lean angle, but one thing you CAN'T tell is the relationship between the rider's throttle-hand INPUT and the engine response. So in the video above when you hear the engine rev up, it sounds odd in some places, like it revs up very quickly then flattens out a bit. That could be caused by traction control intervening (if it is present on this bike), by the tire spinning, maybe even by the clutch slipping - clutches wear out quickly on high horsepower race bikes, race starts are very hard on clutches - it is hard to tell without seeing data that shows throttle input. On the Superbike School student videos the camera is positioned so that the rider's hand is visible on screen, so it would become immediately obvious whether the rider's throttle input was smooth and consistent or not, plus the BMWs can tell you the actual difference between throttle INPUT (from the rider) and OUTPUT (after any traction control intervention) and the data logger can show tire slip rate, too, all of which would make it easier to analyze the video.
  31. 1 like
    The list of survival reactions!
  32. 1 like
    I think this is where you see a big difference between the big bikes and small bikes - on the smaller displacement machines it is all about carrying corner speed, you see a much higher entry speed and the rider carrying a lot more speed in the corner - that smoother, flowing style. I also think club racers on 600/1000cc bikes are inundated with advice to "brake until the apex", so they end up trying to apply that in practically every corner and end up giving up way too much corner speed as a result. Then they feel like they have to get on the gas really hard to try to make it up, or to stay ahead of the guy they see coming up behind or around them. You don't hear a lot of "brake until the apex" advice if you are on a 250. I am saying "they" because I have seen plenty of others do it, but I certainly have done the same thing myself! It "feels" faster on the 1000cc bike to brake really hard, and gas it really hard, and even with all the training I have I tend to fall into that trap if I am "trying" to go as fast as I can. I got towed around recently by a top pro rider and guess what? Higher entry speeds, higher corner speed, and he was gentler on both the brakes and throttle than I was. Sigh, it was a reminder that just getting on the gas harder is not the solution.
  33. 1 like
    What Cobie said is even more prevalent in WSBK and MotoGP where the electronics and programming control of the bike are a world above what even a well funded Club Racer has, It's really comparing Apple's and Oranges with regards to the hardware your average rider has Also its important to remember that some times a point and shoot riding style is faster than a flowing maximum corner speed style, and often times a Racers top priority isn't taking the best line through a corner but making sure they don't get passed.
  34. 1 like
    For club racing the ninja 250/300 spec class has got to be the most affordable option. Tires last a long time, don't use much gas, limited modifications allowed, low maintenance bike.
  35. 1 like
    Call the office for that: 800-530-3350
  36. 1 like
    There's a nice "unread content" button. I like that!
  37. 1 like
    I thought I understood apex orientation, but in a school not long ago, my L4 consultant used one of the new iPad visual aid tools and I discovered an aspect of the technique I wasnt using and it allowed me to enter AO corners faster and with more confidence.
  38. 1 like
    This track is only a few hours from home. Have never been there. Has the school been there before and does anyone have any opinions of it? I love VIR but is a lot longer drive.
  39. 1 like
    HI All, There is a difference in the upcoming single day school at COTA, that is worth a slight mention: normally we run a 1-3 ratio of coach to studes at our single day schools. Since that track is so long, and we want to make very sure we get good service to our students, we are going to actually run LESS students than normal. The ratio will be 1-2, coach to student, and that will mean only 18 students on track at a time. That'll be pretty nice for the guys on track. I've completed today's shameless plug, cleverly disguised as "relevant information." CF
  40. 1 like
    Eirik, very nice list! OK, I'll add one that comes to mind. Once on a slippery turn at the track, I turned it in, and I was reaching a little with my right leg (it was a bit stiffer than I'd like to normally be). Then the front end just went, tucked. I had enough mental "time" to think to myself, "Ah _____, I've just crashed." I didn't do anything, but keep the knee a little stiff. I didn't roll on or off, didn't do anything with the bars. And the front came back! I think I must have been laughing and yelling at the same time.
  41. 1 like
    Thanks for the references. Now, can you tell me what that looks like? Or sounds like? Words often miss the significance of something that has to be experienced. That's the point of my OP. And besides...it's fun to reverse engineer or redefine what "rolling on" means. Why does the book recommend 0.1 - 0.2g of acceleration? What happens if you apply 0.3g? Does the bike blow up? Does the rider highside himself to the moon? I'm not a spoon fed kinda guy. I have to understand why.
  42. 1 like
    I will definitely be there for a 1 day if not 2 day; already started working on my son to come with me. Watched some videos, looks fun!!
  43. 1 like
    It's the north course. layout: http://virnow.com/track/configurations/ and video:
  44. 1 like
    This depends on the ABS system. The complaints I have heard about ABS on track are that it is too aggressive, kicks on too early, or does not allow the rear wheel to lift or slide. So, a lot will depend on your preferences, the adjustability of your ABS system, and which bike you are riding (meaning, how good is the ABS). On the new S1000rr, the aggressiveness of the ABS depends on the rider mode you set. In Rain and Sport mode, the ABS will prevent the back tire from sliding or lifting off the ground, which is great for most riders. In the Race mode, it is difficult to activate the ABS, you have to be braking REALLLY hard (so hard that the rear wheel is in the air and the front is either sliding or about to) to get it to come on, and in Slick mode I haven't heard anyone say they had it activate while riding unless they set out specifically to try forcing it to come on. You can also turn the ABS completely off if you choose. A big plus point for ABS is that it can save your bacon if you make a mistake, like grabbing the brake too abruptly, or braking too hard while leaned over, or encounter bumpy or slick pavement while braking. I personally have had both types of experiences with ABS - once someone made an error in front of me and came right across my front tire. I grabbed the front brake hard and fast and managed to miss the other rider; I'm pretty sure the ABS kept me from locking up the front wheel which may have saved me from crashing. But, in another case, I was braking really hard at the end of a straight and the ABS kicked in, reducing braking when I really needed it and scared the heck out of me. However, that was on an earlier model year bike and in Sport mode so I was pushing the threshold for that setting. I know for sure the newer model in Slick mode (or probably even in Race mode) would not have intervened, because I have tried it. In short, if you are really good at braking and plan to brake at the very limits of front tire traction, are OK with the rear wheel lifting, and/or want to be able to use the back brake to slide the rear end into corners, you will probably have to turn off the ABS. But anything short of that, as long you are riding a recent model bike with a good ABS system, you will probably never notice it and will be better off having it, as a safety feature.
  45. 1 like
    This interview with me appeared in the April issue of Roadracing World magazine. I thought you might like to see it. John Ulrich was kind enough to give me a PDF version of the interview for you to read. http://superbikeschool.com/files/code-rw-interview.pdf The file is 600K and requires Acrobat Reader 5 or newer to view it.
  46. 1 like
    Unfortunately, I had an interesting lesson in overdoing a quick-turn at Barber the last day of CSS that I think is relevant to this discussion. Unfortunately it resulted in a crash. I was riding hard attempting to catch up to my coach who was chasing another student and had the right side of my tires nice and warm as a result. However, the extreme left edge of my tire was still relatively cold (another of the many lessons from this crash) and I wasn't aware of that. Coming into the final (left) corner prior to the front straight, I quick flicked the bike in at a very high speed (both the flick and the entry speed) and almost immediately lost the front. Fortunately, nobody was hurt and damage was minimal. The quick-turn lesson from this, after much discussion with several coaches, was: the fast rate of steering didn't DIRECTLY cause the crash, it was the cold edge of the tire once I got it there. The tire was able to take the FORCE of the quick-steering just fine, but the reason the quick-flick was an issue was that I didn't get the chance to feel indications that the tire edge was cold in time to stop leaning the bike over. Had I steered the bike more slowly, I would have been able to feel the cues the cold edge would have given me in time to prevent the complete loss of traction. The bigger issue was really my awareness of the cold edge on the less used side of the tire, but since this thread is about quick-turning, I thought the quick-turn lesson would be a good one. This is a big reason you don't quick-turn on cold tires... It's less because they won't take the force while steering, and more about giving yourself a chance to feel where the cold tire traction limit is before you exceed it. Benny
  47. 1 like
    So every source I've read or heard says to accelerate through the corner. The reason is simple - the rear tire is wider and can handle more load. Therefore - you must accelerate to transfer some weight to the rear to give the rear tire it's fair share of load. Even in the riding school to get my motorcycle license they say to brake, and once leaned, crack the throttle open and accelerate. My question is this: Once you get into long turns - 180 degrees or even 270 degree turns, if you enter the turn and flick the bike quickly to an aggressive lean angle and you start accelerating, what would keep you in the turn exactly? The more you accelerate, the faster you go, and the more lean angle required to maintain your radius... So if I start with a maximum lean angle initial turn in, and I accelerate - won't I have to increase lean angle to maintain the same radius turn? If it's a constant radius turn - that could pose a problem. If we take this one step further - a 360 degree turn non stop round and round - how can we possibly accelerate at the recommended .1-.2 G's? Eventually, we will go too fast to stay in the turn... Maybe this is one of those beginner B.S. techniques? When I first started tracking cars - it was the same thing. Accelerate through the corner. When I started getting faster and faster and got into actual racing, it was obvious that technique would never work because on long turns you can't accelerate forever - you'll either start pushing the front or oversteering - simply put, you end up going too fast during the turn. With cars, when you start really going fast, you trail brake carrying loads of speed all the way right before the apex. That point is your slowest point. By no means - SLOW. Because you are going in so hot into the corner under light braking that the back end is always just about to give up... Once at the apex (a bit before depending on the corner) you get on the throttle and accelerate. The acceleration plants the rear end, but also rotates the car since the rear tires are on the verge of being overloaded and slip a little bit. That slip (slight oversteer) points the front towards the inside of the turn. (THIS is not a drift, it's very subtle and probably only the driver is aware of it through steering wheel feel). Anyway, if I would drive a car and get on the throttle right as I turn, and I can accelerate through-out the long 180 degree corner and stay on the road it only means one thing - I'm loosing time because my entry speed was too slow. Most common driving error in comparison to really going fast? Overslowing for a corner. I could have carried more speed into the corner. I remember when I first started tracking cars, the advanced group seemed impossible to achieve. They were so fast. Now after having to run with the front runners in actual racing, when I go to a track day in the advanced group - even with a 20 year old BMW, it's like a parking lot - they are SLOW! And it's obvious why. The advanced group drivers have good car control. They can drive at the limit from the apex to corner exit. That gives them good speed down the straights. But they are still using the old methods that you learn in car control clinics - slow in, turn, and power through the corner... They are all overslowing for each turn. Without getting too technical, to truly go fast in a car, and maybe in a bike, there should NEVER be a point in which you have a constant radius turn. In a 90 degree turn that is constant radius, you should choose a line that is as follows: 1)You start your turn in at high speed 2) As you trail brake into the corner your speed decreases and your radius increases. 3) once at the apex - that's your slowest point, and tightest radius 4) at the apex you start accelerating and naturally unwinding the steering wheel - which increases the radius So at no point you maintain a constant speed and radius. It's constantly changing. I'm inclined to think the same applies for bikes, but I'm new to all this so I thought I would ask. PS - On the other hand - there is a thing called "momentum cars" and "high powered cars". In high powered cars - it's like point a shoot! You slow way down, get the car rotated to the exit - and get on the gas - hard! What are bikes like? Point and shoot? Or momentum? PPS - I've been reading that flicking the bike quickly on turn in in is KEY! In cars, we "build up" traction. Meaning that i can't just turn a car from a straight and do 1.5G's. You kind of have to ease into it to let the tires build up lateral traction. So when we flick the bike too quickly, are we not letting the tires build up lateral traction properly? Just thinking...
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    I know how you feel when you say that you will need to quick turn the bike until you break traction to find the limit. I used to feel the same about lean angle when cornering, I didn't know the limit so I thought the only way to find it would be to crash... But that kind of thinking is just plain wrong - and dangerous! I got a good bit of advice from Brendan Clarke (he won the Australian Superstock 1000 championship last year), I asked "how do I find the cornering limit? How do I know how much I can lean?" The answer is very straightforward and there couldn't be a more logical method when you think about it. The answer was to simply keep increasing your cornering speed gradually, bit by bit. If you enter a corner at 100km/h on one lap, and observe that the bike was settled with no problems then then next time around you can enter the corner a 102km/h, if all is well then continue entering the corner faster, 104, 106, 108km/h... (it helps to keep the same braking marker to avoid changing too many variables, just set your speed and maintain it until the corner, then you can more easily focus on your entry speed and turn point.) Actually that may be best to learn how fast you can enter a corner, but for actually practicing quick turn you probably don't want to change your entry speed, just move your turn point further back each time... even less variables that way, much easier. If you take it gradually like that you won't ride over your limit. When the bike is getting close to the maximum cornering ability it will give you some warning signs before you completely lose traction - for example you'll get a bit of a slide, a bit of a wobble, you'll feel it's not as stable etc. The thing to remember is that you won't just 'lose traction' in a corner. (Of course assuming clean track surface, warm tyres, correct use of bike controls etc.) There is a 'traction zone' that moves from static friction to sliding friction, it's not just one or the other - there's a transition in between. It helped me to stop thinking primarily about lean angle in a turn and instead think about the feeling of traction, which will in turn determine your lean angle. You can use the same method for the quick turn, if you use a certain steering rate on one lap, and it all goes okay - just increase the steering rate by a certain amount on the next lap, then again, practice, practice... It sounds like you may have a hard time with the other riders you're grouped with, but I'd just try and focus on my own thing and let them ride around you. Even better if you can move into a slower group just to take it easy and practice some drills.
  49. 1 like
    For me finding a turnpoint and quickflipping the bike goes hand in hand, whenever my steering gets slower I follow lines and not points any more, and following lines eventually makes me tired and less concentrated.
  50. 1 like
    Good question. This is always an area of confusion for riders. What is the right pressure? Lets start of by establishing some basics. #1, we need to understand that every tire may perform differently at different pressures. What works for one tire may not be the very best for another. #2, Splitting hairs on tire pressure is not going to part the Red Sea. Meaning, 0.5 Psi or 1 Psi change in pressure is not going to change your lap times by 2 seconds or more. So keep perspective, if you ride 15 seconds off the track record your not going to magically go 10 seconds faster with small change in tire pressure. Stick to the recommended till you are going very fast. #3, Higher pressure increases stability at the cost of traction. Lower pressures increases traction at the cost of less stability. There is a workable window here, so don't get extreme variations from the recommended. #4, Tire pressure and tire temperature are linked. As the temperature of the tire rises, so does the pressure. Don't try to control this, let it happen, its normal. #5, (and most important) keep your tire pressure set point consistent. Don't change from cold to hot to off the track. pick cold or hot and stick with it. Definitions: Cold pressure is the pressure you set the tires at if they are cold. The tempature without warmers, just sitting there in the pits or in your garage. Hot pressure (also called off the warmer pressure ) is when you set the pressure on the warmers, when the warmers have been on for 45-60 minutes and the tire is up to temp. Off the track pressure is the pressure of the tire as it comes right off the track after several laps. The urban legends say many different things: some say only check hot some say only check cold check them cold, then check them hot, then reset them when they come of the track some say to adjust the pressure till the hot and off the track pressures are the same some say make the warmers hotter if your don't get a 2 psi rise from cold to hot. These are all methods people have used. lets let these go and start fresh. They are not all correct. Lets look at track day pressures for D209GPA, D211GPA, D211GP N-Tec and N-Tec Slicks. BTW: all of these have N-Tec construction. The recommended Hot is 33 front and 23 rear. That is hot off the warmers. Don't change or reset them. You are done. That's it. That's all you need to know! Go ride. Ride all day. Q&A: What if I want more grip? what if i want more stability? Refer to #3 above - take out 1-2 psi for more traction, add 1-2 psi for more stability, but do this only hot off the warmer. Why check them hot off the warmer instead of cold or off the track? Because the temperature on the warmer will ALWAYS be the same, it will ALWAYS repeat the same temperature, that gives you a BASELINE TEMPERATURE to then set your PRESSURE. But the pressure went up when I checked it off the track, why don't I change it then? Because the pressure off the track is linked to the temperature off the track. That temperature will vary from lap to lap. Higher for fast sessions, and lower for slow sessions. You will forever be chasing a stable point to set your pressure if you check them based on the off the track pressure. The off the track pressure is also after the fact, you are done on the track, checking or changing the pressure then will not change the lap times you just did. I just got off the track and need to make a 2 PSI change NOW and go right back out, I can't wait 30-45 minutes for the tires to stabilize on the warmers to make the change, what do I do now? Check the pressure hot off the track, whatever that reading is, make your change (add 1-2 psi or remove 1-2 psi). Note the change ( + or - ) as your NEW hot off the warmer pressure. Example: After riding you feel a 1 psi change higher is in order. you started hot off the warmer at 23 psi, checking the off the track pressure its 27, you add 1 psi making it 28 psi, note down that your hot off the warmer pressure is now 24 psi, go back out. The next day you ride, set your hot off the warmer psi to 24. I am going 15 seconds off the track record. I am running the recommended PSI that is on the dunlopracing.com website. but I think I should be able to go MUCH FASTER if I change my tire pressure. Should I lower the pressure to get more traction and faster lap times? NO, NO, NO! At those lap times, varying from the recommended will not gain you what you are looking for. Stick with the recommended till you get within 5 seconds of the track record, then start making small 1 psi changes. Only make more changes if you can feel the difference in 2 psi up or down. if you can't feel that change, then that change is not helping you, go back to the recommended. Everything is working good. I love my bike settings, my tires are working great, the Saturday track day was awsome. Now on Sunday the weather is 10 deg hotter. Do I change the pressure to compensate? NO! The pressure will affect the handling and stability of the bike far more than the running tire temperature. When you make a psi change you are also affecting the setup of the bike. I am a slow rider, I am 20 seconds off the fastest pace. I can't seem to get my tires very hot. Should I lower the PSI to get more heat into the tire? NO. Again changing the PSI will affect the handling and stability of the bike more than the running temperature. The big thing to remember is not to put the cart in front of the horse. You are NOT trying to achieve a certain temp or psi. Your tire temp is a RESULT of you riding fast or slow. Yes, fast riders have higher tire temps, but not all high tire temps = going fast. Yes you can do things to the setup and psi to get the tire to run hotter, but that would not be a guarantee of faster lap times. that logic would be like "Ben Spies puts his right finger on the break lever, Ben wins races, I will put my right finger on the break lever, I will win races". Not logical or workable. If you are a slower rider you will not have as much heat as a faster rider, FACT. But at a slower pace you are not using the same level of grip as a fast rider. You are concerning yourself with something that is not a problem, Listen closer in the classroom and spend more time on the track doing laps. Use the recommended psi till you start going faster. I don't have warmers. what do i set my pressure at? Set your pressure at 2 psi lower than the hot recommended pressure. Take 2 laps to get some heat in the tire before you start pushing it. Generaly you will get a 2 psi rise from cold to hot. The variable is the outside temperature. Could be 40 deg or 90 deg in the morning when you check it. that is why checking it on the warmer is more stable point to check psi. Cold temps always have this variable attached to them, but this in not more than 1 maybe 2 psi. 1-2 psi would not make the difference in a rider going 15 seconds off the pace, so don't go overboard here. just check it, do 2 warm-up laps, and then ride. Lets talk about pressure changes as the temp increases: Generally, you will see 2 psi rise from cold to hot off the warmers. If you have warmers there is no need to check them cold. 45-60 minutes on the warmer and then check them hot. Fast riders may see 2-3 psi front and 3-5 psi rear rise from hot off the warmers to off the track. there really is no need to check the off the track. It is more important to listen to the rider and what he feels is going on. If the rider likes it, leave it alone. This is importaint: you only need to check rise to make sure there is not a very big rise 9+ psi. Check it once and no need to keep checking it. you are more likely to lower the psi from checking needlessly many times. If by chance you get a very large rise, 9+ psi, you probobly have excess humidity in your tire, the tires are getting very hot or you have stock or bad suspension. You need to replace the air in the tire with dry air from a better compressor or put dry nitrogen in it. This condition will only happen if you have high temps at track like Daytona, Willow Springs and others. If this condition is occurring, and you are a fast rider, you need to be in direct communication with your tire supplier for tech advice and not on a forum. Everything is going fine, I check my psi hot every morning, rise looks good. Then today i checked my rise and I only got 2 psi rise in the rear and I normally get 3. What do I do? Don't change anything. Don't split hairs. Refer to #2 above -------------- Does anyone have specific tire combinations they want PRESSURE advice on ?