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RonniB

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Everything posted by RonniB

  1. Practicing BP - Feedback of proper BP welcomed !

    That should bring your chest closer to the tank and your head a bit forward and to the inside. But some of it could be your fit on the bike, if you feel there is a reach to the bars then it's hard to get a good position. If looking from the front, you should be to the inside of the centerline and along side the bikes CoG.. as shown by Marquez and tried by me..
  2. Practicing BP - Feedback of proper BP welcomed !

    Your shoulders and arms look tense, try letting the inside fall into the apex.
  3. Body to Bike Ergonomics

    Then you have to train contracting your abs while relaxing the rest of your body. The key is not absolute strenght, but control. You're not to ride around with permanently tight abs, but to be able to tighten them to resist external forces or to stabilize your own input. This will be done with abs and back in conjunction, you tighten your core, to create a solid base for movement or maintaining your position on the bike. If you have issues with how to do that, then go to a proper weightlifting gym, not just a gym, and have a coach help you learn the basics of olympic weightlifting. The whole concept of core control is paramount in that area of sports
  4. Body to Bike Ergonomics

    For stability, which is what Hotfoot, JohnCBurkis and I have tried to explain in various forms. Imagine you are to push a heavy wheeled container along a pavement, not lift, just push. Do you think your abs contract?? (They do!!). Why is that, for stability, because upper body movement will ruin the connection between the work your legs are doing and the load/resistance of the container.
  5. Wished-for bike?

    I had that bike..., my old trackbike was a VFR400/NC30 heavily modified, lightened and well suspended, with 60 ish hp in a perfectly fuelled easyrevving V4 engine. But it was too fragile and spares harder and harder to get, so had to go a 150 kg ready to ride, 100 hp, race focussed bike is ideal
  6. Body to Bike Ergonomics

    Think of the muscles in your back and your abs, as ratchet straps that support your torso. If you don't tighten them evenly, one will be overtightened. In most cases the lower back contracts to far leading to pain and loss of strenght.
  7. Hand Position

    Both reshaping to a flatter, more horizontal shape, and more grip. Both helps me stay in place and be less likely to put unwanted weight on the bars. I used suede on my seats on top of closed cell foam, which was sanded to shape.
  8. Hand Position

    It's the first thing I notice*, the throw of the throttle, and then the angle of the levers. So changing and adjusting the components are vital to my comfort, especially grips. I find that soft thin grip, like the pale grey renthals are the best. *seat and pegs too, I recovered every seat on every bike I ever had
  9. Having Issues Hanging Off My Right(Bad) Side

    Try filming yourself on the bike from behind, when the bike is on a pitstand (and securely tied down), take your time and get into your cornering position. Then review the footage and make some adjustments, try some stuff out, take notice of your shoulders, foot placement and head/neck angle from side to side. On the side that feels good, take note of your lock in points, and try position yourself in the same exact points (of course opposite) on the weak side. Doing this in the garage, with no stress of braking zones, no fellow trackdayer looking at your silly poses and the comfort of shorts and a tshirt, really makes difference. Then put on all your kit when you're happy and make sure that it still works
  10. Logic doesn't apply to motorcycle related decisions, it's your money and you who will ride it!! But if your goal is to go racing, then look at what will be competitive and what seems to dominate the class you want to race in
  11. Video Critiquing

    We all are, that is the beauty of riding. And given that you are very secure in your riding and seem to know what you want from it (have fun and still be able to go to work on monday), you have a very good base to start from. Reference points helps to keep you consistent and safe on track, and together with throttle control are the main factors in going fast (for me). RPs can help with the apexes, so that nail them time after time. RPs put your mind at ease in the braking zone, because you know that you will be able to make the turn. Personally I have two RPs for braking, one for brakes on, and one of brakes off, I first adjust the brake on point, then the brake off, and if I feel like going faster into the turn (which I know if the apex is easily reached and I have lean to spare) I simply move my brake off RP a little closer to the brake on RP.
  12. Quick Change Of Direction

    Randy Mamola once reveiled that the way to quick flick, like superfast, was to dip the clutch/close the throttle, but only during the transision phase, eliminating all gyro stability from the engine. I wouldn't dare it.. My own expirience tells me that picking/steering the bike up works very well, but it's a consious effort to keep up with your body when doing so. The bike reacts very fast and sometimes I find myself still hanging off to the wrong side. So counter that I lift myself off the seat with my feet just as the bike pass vertical and that kinda drops me into the second part of the corner..
  13. For results and comfort, any new-ish 600cc bike with a decent trackprepped chassis and stock engine. Fast enough but not handfull
  14. Video Critiquing

    Why the short-shifting? I know the S1kRR is a beast, but having tried one, even in full superbike tune, I found that it actually is less beasty when rev'ed out and you can avoid an upshift and resulting downshift on almost every straight. And as others have said, less time spend enginebraking/coasting and nail them apexes. But very stable and secure riding, a joy to watch Ronni
  15. Backing It In

    Funny this, the rear stepping out under hard braking/downshifting is why I'm working on an air bleed system and a better slipper clutch at the moment. I never use the rear brake, but have a few corners where the rear steps out as I tip in, it very much feels like I'm twisting it out with the steering input.
  16. How Fast Can You Go Round A Corner?

    Counter question, what limits speed around a bend, if rider is not part of it?
  17. Advice

    Pardon me, but it seems you have this confused for "the Stoner". Well, Stoner is the fastest thing on two wheels, but that doesn't take away from Pedrosa that he was the first who very visibly did the "stand up and fire away" rutine..
  18. Advice

    this is a funny question, it could be advice for a new racer or someone new to trackdaying. The advice from me would be the same three things: - Look where you want to go! - Remember to breathe! - Relax your arms and hands! This from the experience that most people don't crash or do something overly stupid on their first trackday. If anything they will just scare themselves a little bit and the solution to their SR is proper training (which they will be much more motivated for if a few SR have been triggered) Recently I coached a friend new to trackdays (his baseline laptime was 1:35.4 (racers and front running fast group is 1:05)) , we startede at the above three, then continued with: - Bodypositioning (do this early before you need to correct bad habits) - Counter steering (quick flick) - The throttle rule Now he felt comfortable on the bike and it behaved predictably due to more steady input from him and laptimes was about 1:27 average. Then we talked: - Lines and where not to go - RP and how you determine and move them - Pick up drill ("the Pedrosa") And in the final two sessions he went quite fast (for a newcommer) at a string of 1:22.x and two 1:20.6 laps.
  19. Passing In The Corner

    This is an very annoying part of riding a lower HP bike at open track days. Many riders on 1000cc bikes take an extreme outside entrance to the corner, slow WAY down, tiptoe through the corner, then pin it on the exit, leaving you no easy way to get by them. The BEST thing to do (in my opinion) is take more CSS schools and get faster so you can move up to a level at the track days where inside passing IS allowed, usually the advanced groups are safer to ride in anyway, much more predictable! That may sound flippant, but it is quite sincere, I ride a 250cc bike and you couldn't pay me to go back and ride in the slow group at an open track day, it is REALLY tough to make passes if you can't go inside. +infinity (give and take a few points). The most dangerous group to ride in is usually the lowest group where people are allowed to pass at all. We refer to it affectionately as the "Desperado" group, where the guys (it's always guys) have more balls and bike than driving skills - which is directly reflected in the crash statistics. Usually the crash rate falls with increasing group speed. Kai Funny I usually find it's the medium group, novices are slow and all over the track, but you can pass them everywhere. Medium group are usually novices who find themselves "too fast" for novice group, and it really reflects in crash rate. Fast group is the best group, people know what they are doing, but you need a minimum speed to be there, which can be track dependent. I have the consistent speed to ride in medium/fast, but usually go for novice, because I want to avoid to be taken out by someone outbraking himself. But back to the topic, try following a rider a bit, and choose where you will overtake him/her, I use one or two corners to assess where, then I make a clean but deliberate move, so the rider in front have no doubt about my move. Ronni
  20. In Too Hot! What Do You Do?

    "So, what do you do when you come up to a corner and suddenly realize (know or feel) you are going too fast?" Road or track? makes a huge difference to your game plan, I would not brake as late on the road so I would end in that situation, honestly. But I can see that debris, dropped equipment or the like can become a problem, and then I would in most cases, stand the bike up and brake, avoid the object/or hit it square on (if it's small and doable). But that is not really your question. On track I would, if its just SR's kicking in, just whack it on its side and drive on with a good steady roll-on. But the number of RPs and the repeatability of riding on track often means (for me), that if I feel that I go in too hot, I really am, I tend to see it on my line to the apex (if I see the apex being missed by more than 3 feet, which the level of detailing I can process at speed) , my only response at that point is to very carefully adjust my line with the rear brake, because I know that on my current line will be at max lean at the apex, which means that more lean will most likely wash out my front end. "Does it make a difference if you ARE going too fast versus being AFRAID you are going too fast?" See above, but yes, too fast will end in the gravel in absolute terms. Being afraid of going too hot is in your head and your training and can be corrected by keeping your cool and applying the right "drill" at the right time. So proper training (in real life, by proper instructors) is the only way forward. What I have written above is my expirience of 13 years of road and track riding with the odd race and works for me, because it's taken from my riding "database" and is presented in a manner I understand (which you may not) and in mostly in the right time for me to apply it correctly. What I'am trying to say, is that offering advice, is always subject to interpretation by every individual who are receiving it in accordance to their context and understanding of riding. Which in practical terms means that if you apply my advice, you might end up in a hedge, and if someone else does they might not... Best Ronni
  21. Going Faster

    The plan I use before, during and after each trackday, is this (and I'm slowly but steadily getting faster: Two weeks before: clean bike and check for fluid leaks, check oil, brakepads/fluid level/color, chain and sprocket wear, battery voltage and coolant level. Go over the critical (I look at all drain plugs, footrest/sprocket/yoke/handlebar/brakecaliper-bolts) chassis and engine-bolts so they are properly torqued up. A paintpen or lockwire will save you time in this procedure. This will help you feel secure about the bike and help to focus on what's important. Two weeks before is so there is time to correct any shortcommings and most get any part needed from a dealer. And remember to start up the bike (if its a track only one) and make sure it will!! When bike check up is done: Look over notes from last TD (I have a book where I write down bike settings and 1-3 bullets good/bad about the bike/my riding/a specific part of the track) and recap strongpoints and things you can improve on. Then sit down and decide what areas of your riding you want to improve on the coming TD, pick only one or two that you think are real areas for improvment. Reread the appropiate part of TOTW (I/II) and nothing else, then read it again and think about for a few days. Use a trackmap to help you visualize the track, start off by just getting to know the way around again, then progress to mentally ride the bike around the track. When this feels almost natural and you don't need the map for referance anymore, start applying the techniques that you identified you need to work on and imagine the (realistic) output of this. Refine untill you feel confident and you can almost time your laps in your head. You can add wheelies, slides and headshakes and then apply your response to this in your head. It sounds weird, I know, but what you do is mentally prepare your responses and thereby calming your potential SR. Of course this is also something to train and you need to physically ride a bike to give you the data to work with in your head. Workout and diet: Do this regularly so you don't overtrain in an attempt to "get ready", focus on core strenght and stamina, crossfit is good for this. As for workout, diet is much the same, don't do anything radical just before a TD, but one thing that actually sharpens your focus if done a few days before, is if you start drinking more water, go from the average 2liters a day (depending on where you live I guess) to 3-4 liters really makes a difference. And don't eat to heavily the day before, but don't feel hungry. The day before: Pack all the stuff you need, I mean everything, this day and if you don't have a van or the like, place it right next the bike in the bags/boxes you will transport it in. This also includes drinking water, tools, energybar, spare clothes, leathersuit etc etc.. Still do the visualizing exercise and keep refining. On the day: Load the car and take off early, estimate when you need to go, so you'll be at the track ready for the riders briefing without rushing, then go half an hour before that. Calmness is key. Warm up the bike as soon you have a spare 15-20min and check/set the tire pressures, deconflict with riders briefing etc. Remember to drink a little all the time, not alot one time. In the session: Use your visualizing skills in real life, and get up to pace within the first session. Make notes of the following: does your knees kiss every apex? Do I leave room on any of my exits? and am I using full throttle on the straights and all of the straight? If your knees doesn't scrape on the apex, you will have extra cornerspeed available (in broad terms), and I will release my brake a bit earlier (release brake RP moved AWAY from the corner). If I leave room on the exit, you can generally stand the bike up earlier and use that room for more speed down the straight. And you would amazed how many people who don't go for WOT subconsiencely (spelling). But most importantly, relax and keep calm. After the session: make notes of your riding, the bike and the track. And reevaluate your choosen points of improvment and adjust your mental session in accordance with the last session and your improvments. Drink water! After the TD: read all your notes and decide if you met your goals and in relation to that, make new benchmarks for the next TD. This where you decide if the day was a good or bad, don't do that during the day. I have tried illustrate what works for me, and that, for me, 80% of improvments are in the head and in preparation. Ronni Added: Just reread the entire tread again, and it seems you are mostly after is the sort of thing that I touched in "in the session" which was quite short. I feel, that if you feel totally comfortable, then your only at 99%, whereas if you calmly push yourself out of your comfortzone then you'll highlight a bad line/RP. And as Cobie says (writes!?!) work on braking last, basicly work on the corner backwards, focus on how to get best drive off the corner first, then identify which apex will get you there and finally work out where to release (and grab) the brake to reach that apex. I prefer to adjust my "brake release RP" even if it slightly hurts the maximum straightline speed, instead of moving my "brake on RP" closer to the corner, I find it settles the bike much more and gives more cornerspeed. This might not be right for you or others, since my bike is tiny lightweight 400, which need the very high cornerspeed. But as whole, I would still say, it's mostly in your head.
  22. Benefits Of Stiffness

    Cobie is right about tire tech, that is main reason for the very stiff motogp bikes, you simply need to load up the tires to make them work. But allout stiffness isn't good, hence all the talk about flexible engine front mounts and swingarms, maybe that is also the reason why Rossi (and Stoner had) are having trouble with frontend feel on the ducati, too much stiffness in the carbon frame. Ronni
  23. What Rpm In A Corner?

    you could be a good candidate for a techtronics blipperbox, it's blips for you on downshifts just like on a superbike or motogp bike. But taking out some throttle slack, keeping the revs higher and working on gradual downshifts (instead of all at once, which I think you do now) will having you enter turns faster, smoother and more safely. Ronni
  24. Lifting Front Wheel

    Hi, Firstly I'll say that what you want to do, is a bit like leaning further only to get your knee down (increasing the risk of crashing). I would concentrate on going faster, running better lines and getting better drive, then it will come by itself (and you will feel it's a problem that it does, because you will feel the lost drive). BUT, your running an almost 200bhp bike on track, there is no reason why you shouldn't wheelie at will..., so try to stand the bike up a bit while exiting, keeping revs just below max torque at apex (about 9000-10000rpm) and just wind-on as you start to lift the bike up. I try to avoid wheelies (and stoppies as well, but that's another story) as it upsets the chassis, by keeping the revs above peak torque, then the bikes drive is at it's best. Ronni
  25. Could Style Have Saved Them?

    Well, @ crash106 apples and bananas..., 20 years old two-stroke without TC, ride by wire and with narrow temprange tires compared to modern day four-stroke with every electronic aid in the world plus multicompound widetemp range tires.... that's why, simple as.. On the subject of a toplevel rider would have/will gone/go slower if they followed Keiths teachings, well the top ten guys would, because they follow no rules, if they want the bike to turn on a plate, they chop the throttle completely (mamola) and don't crash like the rest of us. If they had to adhere to the fairly rigid rules that is CSS, then they would hit a upper limit that you and I don't know exist. But for 99,9% of riders, CSS teachings make them faster, safer and give a better understanding of the bikes reactions. Ronni
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