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ktk_ace

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Everything posted by ktk_ace

  1. IMHO i test ride and rent every bike I'm interested in ... The bike's rider position means alot to me and MOST Honda's (cept cb /nc series) dont really fit well on me because of my longer legs (I favor Kawasaki's) ... You either modify it or sell it imho...
  2. could be worse , could be after typhoon debris http://forums.superbikeschool.com/index.php?showtopic=3867
  3. Noem, This site shows some graphs that may result interesting to you: http://www.datamc.org/ I don't see how the words threshold and braking can go together in motorcycling. Copied from http://www.merriam-w...onary/threshold Definition of THRESHOLD 1: the plank, stone, or piece of timber that lies under a door : sill 2a : gate, door b (1) : end, boundary; specifically : the end of a runway (2) : the place or point of entering or beginning : outset <on the threshold of a new age> 3a : the point at which a physiological or psychological effect begins to be produced <has a high threshold for pain> b : a level, point, or value above which something is true or will take place and below which it is not or will not Take definition 3b for "theshold". Threshold braking It is the braking force (deceleration) above which either the bike will endo or the tire will slide (depending on traction and geometry), and below which you are not braking as hard as is currently possible. It is really primarily a concept for emergency braking on the street, when one needs to stop in as short a distance as possible. Threshold braking involves a progressive squeeze at the lever for 0.5 s or so to get the weight transferred onto the front, then additional lever pressure as required *usually* to the point of the rear tire being barely in contact with the road (except in low traction conditions, when you are applying pressure up to the point of skidding the front tire). As speed comes down, you can apply more and more pressure at the lever without skidding the tire or flipping the bike, right up until the point that you come to a stop (at which point you can squeeze as hard as you like!). I used to practice this type of braking from 100 kph or so, every time I rode on the street, if traffic conditions permitted. I got pretty good at it, but for some strange reason could never stop myself from releasing brake pressure right before stopping completely. If you use google chrome;'s translation function, this might shed some light on brake pressure: http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/k1200r-PAPAGO/article?mid=6877
  4. I assume it was very stock out of the factory ABS... If you dig deeper into the tech parts bin in many racing teams ... R-ABS specifically tuned/programmed for the bike (ie the whole package with TC) , that is out of the league for most learners performance and price wise... And then there is the C-ABS by Honda which is... pretty good for a mass produced ABS system as it uses the rear brake to physically up the threshold limit of the front brake from locking up... Always good to practice with both primary(ABS) and secondary (no abs) braking methods and be familiarized ...
  5. Im with KHP, this question has far too many variales for anyone to answer correctly/ with precision in solving the problem. until someone better than us comes along (i hope so) we can only give general ideas and directions based on experience ...
  6. Since there are so many ways to hit the "threshold" of braking, and since the threshold must be perceived by the rider (some don't mind the rear - or even the FRONT - sliding, or the rear coming around, or lifting, while others would immediately back off braking to stop that) I think that "threshold braking" becomes difficult to define. I know once I started racing my perception of maximum possible braking changed dramatically! Mind if i chime in on my own findings as a student? ^^ Reminds me that SR's artificially cause the threshold limit to be lowered, as for which sr's and what, id believe the DVD /books goes to great leangths to tell once you know how it goes wrong , you can right it and sometimes play/game on the razor edge (brake drift / power drift / initializing your own controlled slides) if skills and setup allows for it I dare say as a student no part of my 130 points of IQ nor talent will be of any help to my riding if not for the books and dvd's , its that black of an art by itself if you wander in solo and try to learn it without any aid ... just my 2c
  7. For starters the place/country you are racing in is still using the imperial measuring system while the rest of the world has gone off to using the metric system Its a culture thing i guess...
  8. abit OT: This brings me to a thesis that the amount of bodyweight locked on tightly enough to the bike = how well the suspension works as it is not coping with a suddenly lightweight bike by virtue of hanging off and being disconnected to the bike ie: hang off loose , bike wobbling around as the whole suspension package is tuned to 190KG+70KG of weight but in reality in bends/corners it is coping with a variable amount due to the body being a partially unsprung mass hang off tight , bike acts more as a whole as most of the weight including the rider is nealy not unsprung (you still cannot cancel out internal organs wobbling about)
  9. Long story short; typhoon Soulik hit my area and the road turned into a mush of leaves twigs and whatnot Had a ride to my favourite vegetarian restaurant and soooo many micro-slides along the way~ Thanks to not triggering SR-s , good throttle control and nearly everything short of gear shifting (im on a CVT 2 wheeler) in the twist2 book and DVD , I had a safe round trip ~ Thanks so much for the skills imparted !
  10. My good friend says its a very good technique to have if your clutch cable goes kaput... At least you can still ride it back to the repair shop
  11. Well, sort of. The classroom section the original poster is referring to is about throttle control, which incorporates knowing when/how to roll ON the throttle but also when to roll OFF. When you go on track to PRACTICE throttle control, you do it without using brakes, which gives you a laser-sharp focus on entry speed and throttle control. You must time your throttle roll-off properly, to set your entry speed for the turn, and a majority of riders actually find that they are able to carry a lot more speed into the corner when they do this drill - lots of riders use the brakes to scrub off way too much speed without realizing it, and this drill is a real eye-opener in that regard. Thanks for clarifying , i greatly appreciate it!
  12. Is "hopefully it will come back" enough of a solution for you? Wouldn't you feel better if you had some actual control over your 'mental preparedness'? If just 'hoping it will get better' isn't good enough, have a look at A Twist of the Wrist II, Chapter 21, there is an actual drill described in there that you might find very useful. Assuming the basics are in place (you are fed, rested, hydrated, etc.) this drill can do wonders for preventing or correcting issues like "loss of concentration", difficulty judging correct entry speed, and just generally feeling unprepared for what is coming at you when you are riding. Regarding your other post about it being a blind corner - are you familiar with the Vanishing Point drill? Would looking for the vanishing point have helped keep your eyes moving ahead in the corner instead of getting hung up on the tar snakes or the place off the road where you ended up going? Thanks for the tip - I reread those chapters just now! I often practice looking through the turn or towards vanishing point just driving in a car. That day, however, I do not know what came over me and I made all the SR errors in the book - the same ones I have been practicing to avoid. Apparently I am not as good at managing my SRs as I thought, and need way more practice. Peter you have to remember skills if not practice often, gets rusty...
  13. I'd say write down what went wrong and what you can do to solve it and then practice on those parts. Its gonna take some time thou. oh and this , i try to do this everyday (but sometimes laze out one or two days a week)
  14. The book's in japanese ... i'd have to dig up thye URL but if you observe properly, it shares many similarities to the twist2 book/dvd
  15. you can have a look at traxxion dynamic's other services too thru here: http://www.cyclepathic.com/ninja1000/ninja1000suspension.htm Do give them a call about pricing , seems professional enough for me
  16. No, I am saying that maybe you should do all hard braking first (full braking force to reduce a gross amount of speed quickly) and start with downshifting only during the last phase of braking (softer braking force just to adjust the entry speed), which should never be 100%. From Chapter 24 - Efficient Braking of A Twist of the Wrist 2: "Trapping yourself into heavy braking at your turn-point is working against the desired result. The basic product (end result) of braking is to get the speed set accurately for the turn." I find it ironic that this thread has become overly hardware biased instead of upgrading ones "software" ...
  17. Maybe you should do all hard braking first and start with downshifting only during the last phase of braking, which should never be 100%. Two more useful articles: http://forums.superb...p?showtopic=258 http://forums.superb...p?showtopic=310 I would love to press the like button on the left but it isnt working(for me that is )
  18. Explain yourself In the original post, he says "anyone who downshifts before braking, please don't comment" which is a bit blunt, someone might have something valuable to add to the discussion, but to be told not to comment on an open forum isn't really in the spirit of this board. Thanks for explaining it for me
  19. you can try doing it motogp style if you have motogp style clutches ; specifically THIS http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/newsandupdates/motorcycle_news/122_1107_is_an_advanced_gearbox_giving_honda_motogp_racers_an_edge/ Anything with lesser tech (minus the DCT) and you are just upsetting the bike... And dont comment? This is nt your forum you know? Manners pls
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