ktk_ace

brakes + tight on the bars too compounded the problem I think a round mirror in the middle of the turn helps road users see who's on the turn thou...

Im on a scooter and I discovered a trick thats similar to anchoring the lower body and keeping the core and arms loose... use the tip of your shoes to push against the front footwell while the back of your butt(or is that pelvis) push against the height difference "hump" onthe seat , it forms a triangular " friction lock " . (most scooters dont have gas tanks that permit leg grabbing/anchoring) Bein tiht on the handlebars is an SR too...

It has to do with bike geometry (COG , rake angle) but seriously , the steering input , steering rate + turn point is completely fubar imho . Not to mention you'll get booked by the cops if you do that ... its dangerous riding

A long wheelbase is gonna handicap you on short twisties ... fat tires are gonna affect your quick turn rate AND effective lean angle ... I'd recommend a 600-750 race bike with 1350-1410 MM (tops) wheelbase plus suspension tuned to your weight and super sport tires (dunlop Q2's) if you wanna be serious running short/medium twisties . If you are a real scientific (and light , <200 pouds ) guy who looks at power (both torque and hp) to weight ratio , the duke 690 / street 675 R is a very potent overall package. lots of new / 2nd hand JDM 600-750 class bikes fit the bill too! (CBR600 /GSXR600 /ZX 6R/ R6)

Sounds awesome! Wish i could scrounge up enuff for a school day or two~

Didnt crash= great bike AND rider stability, esp rider psychological pressure resistance I get harassed alot on open roads in my woods, I have to keep my absolute zero degree cool and slice like a molecular cutter when the chance to overtake / get away appears ... Good to set a goal thou, practice against yourself first , and for race bikes, chat up the top 3 riders and see what hardware they are running.

Smaller, lighter-weight bikes (assuming they have decent handling) are able to corner faster than bigger heavier bikes just because of physics; a heavier bike is subject to greater cornering forces due to its higher mass (Force= mass * acceleration). The higher cornering speed is what attracts some riders to very lightweight bikes like the little RS125, or lightweight supermoto bikes. Lots of riders that are new to track riding have made the mistake of trying to follow a little bike like an RS 125 or Ninja 250 through a corner and ended up in the dirt! Those little bikes might be slow on the straights but they'll eat a liter bike for lunch in the corners. They can change direction faster (better quick turn) and they can carry a LOT more speed into and through the corners. Your 1198 will unquestionably be at a disadvantage in the corners - especially DOWNHILL corners! Compared to smaller lighter bikes, you will not be able to enter the corners as fast as a smaller lighter bike. With a sensible entry speed and good throttle control you can gain a bit back but mainly you'll just have to wait until the corner EXIT (and the straight sections) to use all that horsepower to your advantage. nice insight! I remembered on a downhill trip, a ninja 1000 actually waved to us to tell tell us to overtake him ... come to think of it what a gentleman, he sure knows his bike's pros and cons! PS,the smaller wheelbase + thinner tires sure help alot for turn radius and quick turning

Its next to impossible to help if there is no pictures.

I mcguyvered it using duct/double sided tape and twistie wire, gonna get a mount that fits on my side mirror imho

Im not sure if my vidoe can help but... here it is http://forums.superb...3773#entry31721 my 2C, im not sure of its 100% , take with a grain of salt... for simple normal banked 90 degree 2 lane turns just before a a straight before the turn : 1)get your speed right and stabilize the bike's suspension by giving it a bit of rear brake first then front combined 0.1-0.5S later (preferably on small/no lean and trail braking ) Honda's Combined -abs works this way, i just sample and adopt it as it works for me , YMMV 2)find a good turn/ reference point 3) dont trigger any SR's 4) 2 step method + quick flick the bike onto the turn, one steering input per turn if possible 5) maintenance throttle if needed to keep the suspension in the sweet spot . YMMV During the turn 1) look where you are going , eliminate excess rider inputs and dont set off SR's 2)smooth throttle roll on if necessary as soon as you see the exit of the turn , YMMV on banked/unbanked turns the aim is to keep the whole suspension system planted and in the sweet spot

Took it some time back while still recovering from the flu, just got the chance to edit it and upload to youtube. Its super shakey as i taped and necklaced my handphone "rig" to my chest (jacket) and the roads here... lots of uneven surfaces some notes: 1:19 >uphill climb starts with a 90 degree slight banked left and left hairpin followed by right hairpin 1:52-1:55 >hard left to right transition (fast flick , i think i did a grade 7 steering rate (10 being world champ) there ) 4:21 : 4:43 >multiple slow speed hairpin turns 4:21 - 4:49 > hard uphill left to right transition 5:55 - 6:00 >hard left 6:03-6.06 > hard left, mid turn corrections(incoming car, too near the double yellow line) 8:08 >begin of mountainpass descend 8:26 > multiple medoum speed hairpin turns 9:21 -9:28 banked medium to hi speed hairpin 9:53 -10:10 multiple left/right flick turns 11:13> 11:16 hi speed unbanked decending left turn bike: stock engine 9HP at crankshaft , modded CVT running on stock exhaust, front disc (stock caliper + GG sintered pads) rear drum (aftermarket pads) setup, revalved front damper rods with 20W oil + 40 USD after market rear shock X2 average speed : 15KM in 13 mins = 69 km/h , no hanging off (just a guesstimate ) road quality/lane: coarse with patches of new "humped" tarmac and manhole covers in the middle of the road /corners , 2 to 1 lane and 1 to 2 lane mixture with cars parked sometimes on one lane roads experience: 12000 KM of CSS styled riding(self taught , book+dvd) ~ track experience : none any comments on how to take a better video (fixing the rig/gear/tips) and constructive comments on cornering/how i can improve are most welcome!

I personally: -stick with 75% of my capabilities.(i lower to 60 if i sense something is amiss, more buffer on public roads) -dont be overconfident (from a scale of 0-10 , be a 9) - go for a ride during the early/late hours of the day, less traffic = more of the 10 buck to use on checking on mistakes and correcting them + building solid skills -make sure my body (both physically and psychologically) is prepared for the ride , no matter how long or short. (hydration, nutrition and good rest) -be humble, let your skills do the " talking " -ride everyday if possible (even if its a 5-10 min grocery run ) so as not to become "rusty" just my 2c

if your cornering forces < gravitational force (that is, 1G) at large lean angels ... its feels that you just underloaded your tires... but thats just me, someone has a more scientific/well put answer?

unfortunately, learning something new requires you to sample the track your self on your own bike. If you are a real techie like me, i'd get a friend along and follow you and video tape you from your back. else its still youtube videos of slower riders (who have good lines or you can pick out their mistakes to avoid making them yourself) imho tech now can only make you make smaller mistakes and avoid bigger ones. Effort and education will lead to perfection (or near) imho

why roll on only at the apex? read the book/dvd and you will find the answer inside imho...

Sorry to hear about the crash ThomasDark... Thanks for the reminder, gotta revise the DVD's and book, im getting abit rusty too due to less than ideal weather in my woods

still trying to get a camera on my bike, $$$$ is my main hurdle ...

this should be sticked X2 imho...

nice videos!!(and i can finally compare how fast i steer IRT sbk tier) id have the confidence to say i only steer 0.1-0.15 seconds slower than them on my beat up 125 dunno how much is attributed to the hardware bottleneck thou (it is a top of the line frameless race prepped 1199R , near or top tech imho) still will get a S1000RR HP4 if i have the resources...

I find it works much better for long wheelbase + lower COG bikes. On my 125 with a shorter wheelbase and slightly higher COG, i only do that if i overspeed a corner and/or lean is <20 degrees in the dry; <15 in the wet imho i rather let one or both wheels lose grip when straight up than either one in a turn ... its a skill that... is in my emergency toolbox

any big brand will do go for "GG" rated pads if you want very little initial bite

prevention is better than cure imho. as said in the book, going into the corner too fast and you'll blow so many sweet spots... screwing up the turn point ALONE makes 11 things go haywire then theres the suspension not in compliance , SR's , screwing up the steering rate etc... its so bad i can easily overtake and out-accelerate bikes nearly double my displacement due to rider error alone on my home stretch... (and its just at 50 KM/H medium speed double apex turn with no chamber)

Had only ridden I4, I2, V2, single (air cooled) I4 is smooth but... souless (2012 FZ6R) I2 .. i kinda like the train like pull at low speeds and torque character (2012 NC700 series (non DCT variants) ) V2 ... FZR , woah, the soundtrack is really to die for Daily commuter is a single , pretty good powerband at legal street limits. would really love to ride a triple to come to a conclusion (F3 agusta / brutale/ triumph street triple 675 R)

hmm... around the time motogp / sbk times began to shrink by not about 10 seconds but instead seconds/miliseconds at a time? I'd guesstimate 1990

I see it all the time. Being able to read and prevent an accident / stay a safe distance away from a road hazard is one of the best ways to be safe on the road/track .