ktk_ace

im guessing rider ability threshold VS bike capability/ setup threshold ie if a bike can make the rider work only 99% to get pole, its a good setup/bike but as for the top 1% of riders (motogp) , its their job to make sure the bike functions at 110% ... thats why they are paid so highly... Personally, I'd still like an electronic safety net for sporty street riding , Im ... lazy

Id go to the UK if i was you, much nearer

at the risk of sounding snobby... did you even go thru one complete screening of the TOTW2 DVD? because all the answers you asked is in there ... I have watched it many times, it specifically says "gradually trailing the brake off is the accurate way to find your entry speed" then it says "despite it's drawbacks trail braking is also a useful tool". I don't know how this turned into the proper way to brake.....all I was asking is how often do you find yourself trail braking? I don't see anywhere in the video where it says it's best to trail brake like I asked. I apologize if I sound flustered but this has been taken out of context and seems like people are taking it as me asking when to brake, how to brake and ect.....that is not what I asked. Sorry if I spoke in an intrusive way, I do trail brake alot downhill imho , esp on 180 degree positive banking downhill corners, the gravitational , incline and bank angle makes it fun and imho far safer than leveled roads where i adhere to TOTW2's brake markers and pre-corner procedures. the rear sus still is in the mid stroke while i do that so i cant be far off the mark i guess Now that's what I am talking about lol.....nothing against you I guess maybe I didn't explain well enough exactly what I was looking for in my previous posts. So your basically saying that the gravitational pull makes it less risky for the front tire to slide? gravitational is always constant , me bad incline (the front and rear loading is much different from uphhills and level ground corners) bank angle (i use much less lean in relation to the road ) i dont know how to put it into words properly but i do uphill/ level/downhill runs to work on all aspects of my bike's handling and my skills , especially expectations from the TOTW2 stuff . for level roads , expectations dont come in nearly 95% of the time for uphills , expectations dont come in 99% of the time BUT for downhills at my area expectations come in at 50% of the time partly due to the amount of hairpins ,steep decline and continuity of turns; essentially for 3/4 of the downhill roads, there is next to no buffer zone or straights for you to scrub off enough speed , you'll have to scrub it off and prime your turn in speed for the next turn whist exiting the turn or in the previous turn. turn in points and speed is still massively important

at the risk of sounding snobby... did you even go thru one complete screening of the TOTW2 DVD? because all the answers you asked is in there ... I have watched it many times, it specifically says "gradually trailing the brake off is the accurate way to find your entry speed" then it says "despite it's drawbacks trail braking is also a useful tool". I don't know how this turned into the proper way to brake.....all I was asking is how often do you find yourself trail braking? I don't see anywhere in the video where it says it's best to trail brake like I asked. I apologize if I sound flustered but this has been taken out of context and seems like people are taking it as me asking when to brake, how to brake and ect.....that is not what I asked. Sorry if I spoke in an intrusive way, I do trail brake alot downhill imho , esp on 180 degree positive banking downhill corners, the gravitational , incline and bank angle makes it fun and imho far safer than leveled roads where i adhere to TOTW2's brake markers and pre-corner procedures. the rear sus still is in the mid stroke while i do that so i cant be far off the mark i guess

at the risk of sounding snobby... did you even go thru one complete screening of the TOTW2 DVD? because all the answers you asked is in there ...

read the book and DVD if you are not financially capable of lessons yet (like i do,just came out to society, gotta pay debts first) even with 7500 miles under my belt, after reading and watching the DVD like at least 10 times and practicing all thats inside, i'd say all the previous experience on the 7500miles are .... nearly all a worse off version or just wrong compared to whats taught in the book/dvd 2 years doesnt sound alot , if you have the determination, i'd say start ober and erase your bad habits first... you have lots judging from your replies oh and if a picture tells a thousand words., a video tells a million, much more info imho

dave moss + Honda HRC geometry settings + the articles on motorcyclist + TOTW 2 DVD/book i have NO idea how to express it but once you internalise all the stuff, mid stroke is best

im not sure if im right... this hook turn technique -transfers a bit more weight to the front which : compresses more and shortens the wheelbase and/or changes bike geometry to favor more cornering "oompfh" ? it kinda sounds like body steering but concentrated into a tool used exclusively for only certain scenarios.

this is a good thread imho. many have spoken what i would like to express and more. Book material imho

hydration sport drinks nutrition rest sounds too easy but everyones sweet spot is different.

im sure triggers for SR's are not good and takes konowledge and practice to overcome imho nothing like too many tools in the toolbox , i could always use a couple extra advantages

broadcasted racing imho is the top 1% extremes being used are very normal and safety... seconded (because winning is always top priority) road riding emplasises on safety so... i'll stick to the safer techniques written in the books and DVDs

1% talent , 99% practice and also boatloads of money~ theres a local saying that geniuses are build up using lots of money

+1 on the above, and I will add that on the racetrack, I do not find the forward, aggressive position of the sportbikes particularly tiring, but on the STREET it totally wears me out, my back and arms get tired, I think it is the low speeds and all the starting and stopping, especially sitting still at lights which is quite uncomfortable unless you let go of the bars and sit up straight. I have also tried riding a more street-oriented, upright bike on the racetrack and found that at high speeds I was blasted by the wind (despite the windscreen), heavy acceleration tended to pull my shoulders backwards, and the rear end of the bike felt unstable at very high speeds, so I did notice a difference not having that low, crouched position that we have on the sportbikes. But that particular bike was my all-time favorite for street riding, it handled very well, had loads of power, had a nice comfortable riding position, a slightly lower seat height, etc. I never had any comfort or handling issues at street or highway speeds, and I thought it would do OK on the track... but it didn't! It's just a different type of riding, and it is probably extraordinarily difficult to buld a bike that would excel at both. active ergo anyone?(think motorized car seats and active aero on a bike) (but i think its gonna compromise on the weight)

thanks!! Im using vesrah sintered GG's on my ride now , i'll give galfer a look when my pads need changing

But you're like 7 feet tall...don't you drag you knee in the straights? Nah, actually not. heil, im only 5 foot 10 without gear

Really? I use 38" inseam, and have never owned anything but Yamaha bikes. But clearly YMMV. I love the FZ6/1's the FZ6R, not so much cuz it cramps up my legs, FML because the new FZ6R is a real looker Tried a ER6N 2 days back and instant nice fit imho. PS> just measured my leg, 38" too!! but my foot to knee is a full 19" >< (21" if i do a 90 degree top out measure)

everybody's body is different what works for a certain demographic might not work for others imho. i have long legs for my height and that makes me ###### out of luck on most yamahas. Kawasaki's... i find it MUCH more comfy. YMMV

Glaphere pads? googled but cant find it = =

Interested in where you get that data as my (abet outdated )SAE paper says piston/ring wear essentially doubles at top torque VS top horsepower. looking at Triumpg'ws new inline 3's , i'd say its native to engine tune and design and not really a broad spectrum. I'd concur with fuel consumption thou,

yeah, like every bike is motogp grade, every road motogp grade... for road riding, i'd stay with a method that maximises stability in most conditions till both hardware and software prove it otherwise

I would like to Thank everyone here too~ The interaction, courtsy and logical replies here are amazing for an online community imho~

I'm not sure if that is a fact, it is just what I personally experienced on my own bike. It makes logical sense to me that adding more braking-while-leaned-over would increase wear on the sides of your front tire. Doing most braking while upright might increase wear on the middle, but wearing out the middle has never been a problem for me - but maybe a commuter rider would feel differently! I'd be interested to hear other opinions on this! Should we post up a question in the tire forum? It'll make a nice discussion imho ^^ PS. I use a soft option supersport tire front and the trial braking i used to do eats up the sides too... Braking nowadays, i combine front and rear so in theory , it should take some energy off the front too?

so... quick turn = better for conservating tires?

the cb400 is a commuter , if honda gave it a I4 screamer, the current chassis and suspension esp ones at the back isnt gonna cut it imho... the one thing you dont want on a commuter naked bike is too much power as demostrated by pre 2011 ninja 650's... frame/ swingarm flex is NOT NICE