ktk_ace

I use redline SI-1 to clean gunk and carbon deposites off the combustion chamber; 1ML per litre or 4ml per gallon cheap insurance as my bike has same problems too (intake/ex valves go kapoot at 23000-28000 km)

alright! Lemme know when it hits the shelf!

The bike will lean to the left because you are "counter steering" it to the left, thats what you are doing with that left bar pressure. It is not balancing itself. If you let it be it would turn slightly to the right. You can use this to some advantage as you save lean angle when you enter the turn and stay on the brakes harder/longer. And your feeling of "stored energy" is not wrong as you have already prepared your counter steering. Compare what you do to the hip-flick techniqe taught in level 3. Also compare what you are doing with how we like to prepare body positioning by moving the butt way ahead of the corner. And how that does NOT make you need to balance the bike by pressing any bar to keep it going straight. How much would then that kind of body positioning with the butt out but head still behind wind screen help in any way with lean angle and corner speed? The negative comments here is because everyone here "knows" that "body steering" is not very effective and totally without precision. I dont think much effort was made to understand why you find it useful to move the center of gravity towards the turn before you enter the turn. Its not negative... I've ridden a few "trackified" bikes ; i speak from my puny experience . I wont call the motovudu way negative; its proven with said rider with said bike to be fast on said tracks. but if you miss one component, its gonna turn very ugly especially on the streets. Its like mouse sensitivity... form a scale of 1-10(SLOW<> FAST) , most people are on the 3-7 range to do it the way noamkrief says, you will have to tune the bike all the way to 10 aka hypersensitivity ; extremes wins races on tracks , its just a different solution to a common problem... The reason why this hypersensitive tune will be a hazard on the streets (i might miss a few ) -slicks on public tarmac -super expensive suspension which needs service every 500 miles -massive hang off which might get you in trouble with the law -near inability to deal with sudden road changes with impromptu fast precise inputs(animal/pedestrian/pet on the road etc)

It seems to me that your options are: -Let it skid that little. -Slowdown on that turn. -Replace a continuos radius curve with two or more quck flicks connected with straight lines that cross those metal expansion joints. You can achieve the same number of degrees of direction chain in less time (due to the quick reduced radius of turn) using the quick flick technique. See schematics of Chapter 15 in A Twist of the Wrist II. I wont recommend skidding unless you are comfortable and knowledgable enough with your bike , tires suspension , everything. I have played with drainhole covers; -when everything goes right, you experience a small skid at the back tire and you can use it as a makeshift oversteer move/technique -when everything DOESNT go right ... lowside... its a gamble I personally dont want to gamble if possible .

1% talent , 5 % education, 94% practice @ 75% of your current abilities

I think you have these reversed, on the street you can be lazy with your steering inputs, the term "Street Lazy" exists for this reason, but on the track you should be steering as quickly as possible on virtually every corner. Now to be fair I have given the technique you describe a try in a few different situations and when it comes to "spring loading the bike" I have to say I disagree with your physics. If I hang off the bike as far as I possibly can and counter lean the bike to maintain a straight trajectory you claim that I have somehow preloaded force into the bike and it will come snapping over into the corner. I have found that doing this and then letting go of the handlebars entirely causes the bike to gradually stand itself upright. If i combine that with massive pressure to the inside footpeg and a hefty nudge on the outside of the tank with my knee and "core" the bike does lean over somewhat and turn slightly, but not enough to take any corner at speed, I can achieve the same results with just the inputs to my foot peg and gas tank, the added "stored energy" for the counter lean has minimal impact. I can think of only one situation where you can get the bike to fall over with 400 lbs of inertia. IMHO he only ride track days on his super expensive track bike which is imho tuned to his style for massive oversteer , hence even the smallest countersteering input by his body would achieve the amount needed to turn the bike Said bike is not ridable imho on public roads for obvious reasons. if he try riding on any production bike with his said style , it will only result in massive and multiple compounding problems.

race conditions with a supermoto race bike huh? Anything short of race conditions(read: PUBLIC ROADS and naked / non race preped bikes) = countersteering is all you need. I'd put my money on countersteering 99% of the time because body steer only works for the remaining 1% which you have stated. It seems that you have watched motovudu... if you have , the techniques inside only applies to a fully prep-ed race bike prep-ed for a specific style. I've tried that on "lesser " bikes and most of the techniques inside only serves to run the bike wide/ upset the "cheap" suspension .

If hes passionate about it enough, he'll learn it himself and eventually ask you if he hits a mental/skill roadblock...

I was confused with trail braking and tapering off, but i guess im much more clear now, thanks!

I'd say the doc should sell it on amazon; free shipping to my country and lots of other places too , more exposure= more sales

Interesting. I'm actually pretty happy with the way it is working, but perhaps it is just that at my glacial pace I can't detect the deficiencies. I have completely custom suspension - AK-20 cartridges in the front with springs spec'd for my weight, and a Penske rear, also custom built for my bike. I have spent many hours tuning all aspects of it, and both ends have been (fairly) recently serviced. On the two outings so far this year it has done nothing to make me think it needs further adjustment, except that at one point I was using a bit too much front travel and so added a bit of preload. I am sure it is like everything else - right now it works perfectly as far as I can tell, but as I up my pace I will eventually find some aspect of it that needs modification / adjustment. Admittedly the one thing I have never monkeyed with much is the geometry (either fork height or rear ride height), but I like I said I don't currently feel the need. Do you really think the rebound is too fast? That's easy enough to try....I actually really like playing with suspension adjustments, tire pressures etc., but lately I have been concentrating more on my riding per se. either too little rebound damping or too little anti wheelie (your front seems to be lifting up waaay too much when under acceleration imho) I might be wrong though , so do take it with a grain of salt ... I do say do try out 1-2 clicks more rebound damping , its the easiest to get back to your original settings if things dont take a turn for the better

racing... yeah, closed circuit blah blah with a sub/million dollar machine... I can ride safely in the real world thou

Whew! That was a read. My heart is pounding. I have been pretty much trying to set my entry speed early and avoid trail braking altogether, but it feels really unnatural to me. I think I am going to go back to allowing myself to taper off the brakes during turn in. It just seems to save a lot of time, and allows me to control the suspension action better - sort of trading braking forces for cornering forces as I lean the bike in so that the suspension doesn't bob around too much. Otherwise I find I need to coast a bit at my final entry speed once I release the brakes, to let the bike settle before turn in. It's slow. I took a video of my front suspension at the track this week, and it is clear that on my best laps I am turning in on the brakes. Not full on hard braking of course, but still substantial. [media] [/media] imho it looks like your front suspension has way too little rebound damping for that track ... and either a spring thats too strong or too strong compression damping too (or the oil lock if its stock) in your case , Trail braking moves the front suspension into the middle-3rd sweet spot, thats why it seems natural to you~ could be fixed by: 1) technique (hook turn : more weight to the front , smaller throttle opening , faster quick flick) 2) lowering your front (changes geometry thou) 3) tuning your suspension (im no expert thou) 4) adding ballast to the front of the bike

Ok that was how i understood it.Thanks. Keith mentions steering rate and even has a graph.You know...how Rainey steers in half a sec or less while we take almost 2 secs.How do you guys do? A steady push of about two inches should get me down nicely no? I use half an inch to avoid obstacles. nope, it takes sampling and every bike and rider is different. Start at 75% or less of your capabilities . practice makes perfect

rate of steer is also important. steer like a slug and you are not going to make it.

Why? As to Lnewqban's original question, I'm with the others: 1. I get any deceleration done, by rolling-off and/or braking, BEFORE initiating the turn. I try to avoid avoid trail-braking for the reasons we all know. Maybe this is old-fashioned, but it works for me. 2. I get back on the throttle asap after the turn-in (and as "evenly, smoothly, constantly" as I can! ). This fixes the suspension in that perfect 40/60 suspension loading that we're all aiming for ... 3. I hold that throttle thru the turn, and only start accelerating once I've got my exit. So there's no real, 'Transition from Deceleration to Acceleration', while in the turn. Instead it goes: Decelerate-Hold Steady-Accelerate. And that's the Code way - unless I've got it wrong HTH Craig I do this too ; just im not good with words

Mr Keith Code's newest article: http://www.motorcycl...ime_dont_blink/ Thoughts: Predictive-reactive planning > been working on turning in and braking (never knew it ; i thought I was honing my muscle memory throttle/turn/brake wise) Still needs to work on my body position and especially my stiff arms (SR!!) which gets me more than I want it to~

1) I do MOST of my braking straight up , usually in this order > rear, then 0.5S later front ,then rear off , then front off (all within 3 seconds )then reaching the "flick" turn in point. Once the bike touches the turn in point , i do a quick flick while doing maintaining throttle roll /slow off (on downhill or off chamber) / slow on(on uphill or very chambered) 2) im not so sure about the front ; the rear, I've been able to keep it at the half to 2/3 length (dirt ring indicator) sweet spot. 3) practice practice and practice at 75% of your ability or less !

Yup ! Consistent bike + consistent rider = Consistent performance! As for tire "feel" , there is a section in the twist 2 book too. Imho getting a new tire means having to relearn a new tire's characteristics and how it affects other components especially suspension; When i personally find a tire I like (overall), I dont usually change it unless it is EOL/not manufactured anymore.

Weight limits + G forces The 500's are imho lighter than current 1L bikes . If the FIA removes the weight limits, the difference will be like night and day...

Articles there , its at No.4 with a small eye experiment you can do ! http://www.cracked.com/article_20391_5-mind-blowing-ways-your-senses-lie-to-you-every-day.html

Still 2 KG from my goal Still jobless But hey, I got my intermediate licence!

The dark arts of suspension and geometry... I start at the wheels (profile / height / psi etc) ; used to have a rebund daming adjustable shock but sold it for double damping rate one thats only preload adjustable

This is tuning imho on a personal level . I was brought up on the tribilogy doctrine ; how fast the bike accelerated affects nearly everything and if one component is the bottleneck, the whole bike will run on that bottleneck. Consistancy = great results and confidence too, no use if you have a great bike but not so great riding skills and vice versa .

I dont have the luxury of specific or track days fyi; I try to practice everything .