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Everything posted by ktk_ace

  1. TOTW 2 has a similar experiment but the unit is MPH exiting the turns. Tell me mr stroker , have you even watched the TOTW 2 video ? I know you are the best ad avoiding the obvious thou.
  2. yeah, everything, just not in the right dosage or way in this time and date. Its very outdated IMHO. Maybe its just me but I've been there done that with 8's and I personally prefer a mini course / track or the touge behind my house where I get access to uphills/downhills , positive/negative chambered corners and low medium hi speed corners. Preferably with chase cam or an instructor to oversee one's strengths and mistakes. What better way to troubleshoot the bike and one's skills than to throw real life conditions at it ? Speaking of slides... does anyone actually tune the mass balance of their bikes to make sure its actually neutral on the straights in the rain? For ex the CB400 Spec2-4 and most scooters likes to skid itself on the side of the pipe when the tire/s loses traction : I do. Note on both cases , when the bike loses traction, it turns towards the side with the pipe/exhaust. On a properly mass centralized bike (just on the left and right) , upon lockup of the rear wheel, the rear will only wiggle and squirm slightly, well within a riders control. My personal level of precision in finding lines allow myself to actually make the rear step on part of a manhole/line to make it "slide" ; the result is 0.2-0.4s of oversteer drift . How are you going to do/learn that on 8's? with no knowledge of overcoming SR's and a badly balanced bike + no knowledge of how the bike acts upon unwanted steering inputs , its very inefficient imho. My scooter doesnt even have a tank for me to lock on to.
  3. The geardo and mechanic within me says you will at least need to change your springs to match your 210 pound psych. And in between full blown race spec suspension, there is oil weight and fork internal drop in kits to consider , mostly depending on your budget. PS. I'd get a ZX14R if i were you for my non track riding. Huge bike , lots of power, TC and roomy for you. Maybe the suspension might even be in your weight range! way too big for me thou, I'm only 5"9 . Stock 2013 S1000rr already feels slighly cramped for me last time i borrowed a ride from a friend so the S1000rr might be too small for you given you are much bigger than me.
  4. I do not understand what you are trying to say - could you please be more specific? Riding 8's doesnt train much apart from finer control of the motorbike imho. Not triggering SR's and finding the ideal line is the real deal in surviving the harsh everyday commute for me. And my oh my, the roads around my area sucks. hard. real hard. near full blown rally course level after a typhoon to be specific. The strays and idiot road users both walking and on wheels (2,4,6 if you count the dump truck) makes the already insane conditions .... it ups the ante Sorry, had a rough day everytime I ride . I cant change the environmental conditions atm.
  5. Funny because I did 8's before teaching myself the ways of the school via video and book...on a scooter Alot? Im still skeptical that you have actually read the book/saw the video and applied it to your everyday riding for such a statement to pop up. That or maybe the area where I ride is actually really close to being a full blown rally course with leaves, mud, sand and unexpected downpours forming small puddles everywhere , making hydroplaning a stark reality . Im not discounting that it could be both or just one of them thou.
  6. I'll only trust judgment from riders who had ridden both bikes imho... The new Kawasaki ZX6R 636 does come with TC thou. Your height and weight , if you can reveal, can also help members here to see if the spring rate on the stock 1000RR is suitable or too hard/ needs adjustment/ or simply too big a bike for your body size. If your body psych is more on par with hotfoot , Im sure shes glad to chime in on the pros and cons of riding the S1000rr VS a smaller bike like her morikawa ~
  7. F=MA physics class anyone? The more straights, the faster a lighter rider can accelerate exceptions : bike already has too much power
  8. I use the Verah SJL's for my road bike , full metal sintered GG rated , havn't had brake fade for the past 7500 miles still have 1/2 of the pad material left when i did bleed the system at the 7000 miles ; I bleed my brake system every 6-9 months But I dont track/race atm. Vesrah's are pricy thou . Go for big brands + price advantage if necessary , the brands menthoned above are pretty strong contenders imho. (EBC , CL, BREMBO, Fedoro)
  9. Its racing, you have 3/more types of lines , it might just be a defensive line ?
  10. Hi there Welcome and make yourself at home here ^^
  11. Different setup/ grade of brake systems? Carbo ceramic brakes bite like mad once heated up fyi. Also ferrous rotors have fade which might have to be taken into account. http://www.motogp.com/en/MotoGP+Basics/brakes
  12. IMHO the whole moto2 tire + brembo setup makes it linear enough for them to "grab" it Racing tarmac (particularly new tracks like Austin) also has a much higher friction coefficient; the riders are riding on the edge, and if grabbing the brakes does not cause serious problems, it can help with their time and lines ;they can be much more aggressive so to speak just my 2C
  13. This is a photo from me riding that weekend and my typical body position. It looks so effortless in the video~ Im impressed, thats phenomenal core + lower body strength!
  14. looks like there is minimal hangoff... i might be wrong thou~ And the footpegs + footwork, kinda reminds me of the vertical bamboo climb they taught is in BMT ~
  15. If its in the US Yamaha wins in aftermarket stuff and support ... Cost in time is another factor imho... if time and money is no biggie , i'd get the ZX10R / 636 / daytona triumph 675R , super comfy race bikes for my body type. S1000RR is only soso for my frame ; R1 kills me in 1 min... i start getting aches here and there
  16. Not unless you are riding around with the suspension topped out (which you had better not be). As long as it is not topped out with you on board, the spring compression will be the same - however much it takes to support your weight and the bike's weight. The fact that you achieved some of that total compression with preload and the suspension is therefore more extended in use does not affect the additional suspension action per unit force. The exception to this the case of (usually) forks with really long topout springs. If you add so much preload that you are riding around with the topout springs engaged then yes, the suspension will be stiffer at the top of the stroke. But that's an exception, not the rule. Eirik, I know you like technical stuff, so I am betting you will enjoy this site. Best series of technical articles on motorcycle suspension I have ever seen: http://www.promecha.com.au/springs_basics.htm There are three technical articles on springs, and then it goes on to linkages and leverage. Thanks for the link. About preload - even if the suspension isn't topped out, you will still vary the amount of negative travel. You will notice a difference between 1 cm and 7 cm of negative travel when it comes to absorbing dips. A huge difference. Agreed. Not topping out the suspension hard in big dips will make quite a difference in how it feels. 7 cm is not a realistic number though - that would certainly lead to bottoming under braking or even hard cornering, if you could even achieve that much sag. IMHO ... the type of springs (straight/double/triple/progressive rate) also affects how dips and bumps are felt
  17. http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/features/columns/tread_envy_code_break/
  18. given if the max load of both tire and suspension is X thru a specific corner if you overload ( X+1 ) , then yes. better tires and tuned suspension based on rider weight helps alot imho. (makes the x value larger)
  19. Nice writeup everyone I learned something and IMHO Mr Peachy , if you want to know how suspension in world class racing is set up and its effects, the Honda RS125R / CBR1000RR suspension guide is here for your viewing http://www.risingsuncycles.com/bikespecific/suspension.htm
  20. the G circle mention helps alot on how to trail brake correctly imho a rider is only as skilled as his weakest skill ; filling in and correcting weakness makes one a better overall rider imho
  21. the BMW S1000RR HP4 adjusts the damping rate every 10 ms for you lol
  22. the k1300R is by no means conventional... it has a very special front setup Front duolever. http://www.carbibles.com/suspension_bible_bikes.html http://www.motorcyclenews.com/upload/219848/images/01bmw-k1300-r.jpg
  23. does electronics count? eg: -CBS (combined braking system) -TC (traction control) -EBM (engine braking management) No, electronics will not change the maximum available stopping distances compatred to a skilled rider without these aids. Look at it like this: the earth is pulling you down with 1g, if you try to generate more than 1g in force laterally, you will start to endo or lock up. Unless of course there is additional downforce, lots of wind resistance from high speeds, etc. Thanks for clearing it up
  24. I'm curious just how much easier the newer electronic packages have made this Tyler That's actually an interesting point. The MV Agusta F3 has the ability for the rider to adjust the amount of engine braking and a few other throttle related parameters which might help with that a bit. There's probably more bikes that have that option but I can't think of any off hand. As for the TC on most bikes all it does these days is retard the spark. TC would make that situation worse rather than better. You would have the TC adding to the delay of getting the engine RPM's up if it detected any kind of sliding or if the lean angle sensor got in its "oh no!" range. If I understand correctly he's applying throttle and slipping the clutch to keep the engine speed synced up to the wheel speed almost like a long lasting rev matched downshift. If you REALLY wanted some cool electronics stick that into an electronic system! With the clutch for some riders being a redundant control an electronically assisted one would be interesting if they could get it right. Some of the new Italian bikes have an Auto blipper for downshifts and a quick shifter for upshifts. With an electronic assisted clutch synced into the bikes TC system it would be like having a sequential manual gearbox and much better TC and quicker on the gas time exiting corners. That would certainly translate into more attention spent elsewhere and perhaps better lap times. Thats stock TC/electronics for you, its geared for insurance claims and safety Get up to par on a race grade customizable TC/electronics unit and you will be plowing thru corners and conserving at least 15% of your tires , safety be damned LOL (its race grade,its meant to be all out ,nannying your mistakes is just a bonus but dont really count on it ) As for inline 4's... MOST 600/1000CC fully-faired supersportbikes are low on the TORQUE sweetspot hence the drive/rev matching needed. (exceptions will be the S1000r but its much more streetbike than sportbike) the 4 wheel racing industry have this thing (i dunno what its actually called, any 4 wheel enthutiasts can chime in ??) that uses GPS to map a certain circuit and change engine/electronic characteristics for the car on certain parts of the circuit -eg straight = all out power / mode A for maximum acceleration/top speed -eg multiple low speed turns = reduced engine power / mode B for maximum control + tire conservation
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