rchase

I have to agree with Hotfoot that the BMW is a lot easier to ride than a 600. Here are a few of the ways I find it easier. 1. Power in any gear and at any RPM. 600's tend to only make their power if you keep them spun up at high RPM's. The BMW is similar where most of it's absolutely terrifying power is higher in the rev band. Unlike 600's however there's no dead spot and no lugging the engine. You can also use the engine power to make up for mistakes or track conditions where you would like to back off and give some distance for a moment. 2. Lots less shifting. The bike has a good amount of torque so even if you were to choose several gears too high for a corner exit it still will exit at a reasonably safe speed. When I ride my RR's on the highway there's literally no real need to downshift. In 6th gear the bike will go from staying with the flow of traffic to well over reasonable speeds with just a minor throttle input. The 600's that I have ridden you have to pin it to the stop and wait or downshift. 3. Quick Shifting. The Quick Shifter and the Clutchless rev match downshifting make life a lot easier when you do want to shift. The cool thing as well is they are both optional. Use the clutch on either rider aid and they deactivate and allow you to do it manually if you want. 4. Peace of mind. Race ABS available to save you from locking up on aggressive braking. DTC available to keep you from highsiding yourself to the moon if you get way too greedy with the throttle. Wheelie control to keep wheelies from getting out of hand. These systems sit in the background and are just along for the ride for the most part. When they are needed the step in and try to correct the situation. They aren't perfect of course and you can still crash an RR but think of them like a Parachute on a plane. The potential still exists to get hurt parachuting out of a plane but it sure beats the odds of going down with the plane. 5. Weight. This is actually a downside for the RR. It's heavier than most 600's. The interesting thing though is it's not by much. My personal R6 when it was new from the factory was 430lbs with fuel and fluids. The RR is 458lbs with fuel and fluids. That's only 28 pounds heavier. One has to wonder how heavy the R6 would be with an ABS pump and equal electronics to the RR. That 28 pounds is very easily offset with upgrades on the RR. Just as an example my track RR has BST carbon wheels, full titanium exhaust and a lithium battery and carbon fibre race bodywork. I have not weighed it but I would be really surprised if it was over the weight of my R6. With double the power it certainly would make up for an extra pound here or there. One of the other amazing things about these bikes is they make great track bikes right off the showroom floor. Years ago I did exactly that and bought a brand new RR and a few weeks later took it to the track with the school. The bike is the one on the left in the photo above. Even in mostly stock configuration it's amazingly easy to ride and has plenty of power. Even on tight tracks where a 600 would have a significant advantage it keeps up really well. Having 193hp on tap can make up for a lot. The new models come with 199hp stock and upgraded electronics that make it much easier to put that power to work for you. It's pretty obvious I'm an S1000RR fan. It's not brand loyalty that makes me love the RR so much. It's the amazing bike. The RR is the only BMW I have ever owned.

Hey Nic. Missed this one. Glad to hear you turned things around! Let us know when you hit the grid for the first time! To answer Will's question. Nic had an accident during the school due to a rather aggressive approach that he's now started to reconsider. To protect other riders course control asked Nic not to ride anymore which was completely reasonable considering the circumstances. It's their job to protect the learning environment at the track for all the riders. Nic and I have chatted on and off since his incident which has been very helpful for both of us. We both have a diametrically opposed approach to riding. I was on the overly conservative end (which I have reconsidered due to conversations with Nic) and he's at the other end of the spectrum. Both of us have learned a lot from "the opposite point of view". I have ventured out of my safe and completely predictable style and Nic has learned some of the "slow is fast" mindset which ultimately will help him in the long run. A respectful dissonance can be quite helpful to anyone. Questioning ideas but also listening to them allows you to question your own thoughts on the matter and you can learn something in the process. You just have to listen and think about things. On the flip side of that. Conversations with someone with the same problems can be quite helpful as well. I have had some conversations with a track day coach that's had some of the same issues that I have suffered from over the years. Hearing the solutions to the problems gives me some ideas on how to approach solving them myself. Perhaps I'll ultimately solve them in different way but it's super helpful to have a bit more understanding.

If you look closely at the coaches in some of your photos you will notice many of them not even hanging off the bike. They only hang off when they really need to so they can conserve energy and ride all day long as well as juggle all of our questions with a smile on their faces. From their perspective hang off less makes a lot of sense because aggressive body position is not "really" needed at the speeds some students are doing and it saves energy to focus on other elements of the ride that may be a bit more important to the learning process. Another philosophy I have seen from many track day coaches is to use every single opportunity you can to practice body position. Even if you are going slow enough so it does not really have an affect. Practice makes perfect. Many track day coaches teach body position from a riders first day on the track. Both approaches have merit if you think about it. If you have visual issues that are slowing you down on your entry no matter how far you hang off the bike it's not going to increase your corner speed. On the other hand even with a slow entry it's good practice. The more "automatic" you can make getting into a good body position means there's less attention you have to spend on it when your speed increases and it becomes more critical. Track day coaches also have a lot less overall time to spend with riders out on track and may never see that rider again. Their approach reflects that to keep people safe from common gotchas such as their feet dragging on the track as their lean angle increases. No matter how hard you try you will develop some bad habits that you will need to work though later on. I know I have and the first time I ever rode on the track was with the school. Riding is a complex activity and it's just not humanly possible to get it perfect even if we desperately want to. That's why the school breaks the elements of riding down into their singular forms. You work on one skill at a time as an on track drill. In Level 4 you get a chance to revisit things that you might have gotten slightly wrong and refine them. In Level 4 it's very common to do drills from Levels 1 and 2. You won't feel bad about it because many of the other Level 4's you are sitting with in the round table are trying to resolve the exact same issues. Possibly the best advice I have ever gotten was from Keith Code himself. I was sitting in the Level 4 class trying to explain a confusing problem I had and Keith smiled and looked at me and said "Look. Don't think". Out on track I was trying to account for every single variable and condition down to the weight of the wheels on the school bike vs the carbon wheels on my personal bike. Even if I had a supercomputer with me doing some of the thinking it still would have slowed me down. It took a lap or two but not thinking about things made me a lot more relaxed and probably a bit faster. I agree with you on the methods not being very different. They are about 95% the same perhaps even more. The important thing is getting the weight offset. If the weight is offset does it really matter what position the foot is in if your grip on the bike is not impacted?

Many years ago I too was questioning the choice of a 1L machine for rider training. Until of course I rode the RR for the first time. All of the intimidation that riding a 1L machine for the first time ever went away in just a few minutes out on track. In rain mode the bike is much like a 600cc machine only offering much more protection against mistakes with it's ABS and Traction control systems. The school takes full advantage of all of the ride modes that the S1000RR platform offers. The ride modes alter the power output of the engine and the behavior of the traction control and lean angle sensor system as well as the ABS system on the bike. The electronics on the BMW are pretty amazing. They stay out of the way until they are needed and don't interfere with the rider until you step over the limits established by the mode. Even when the system does get involved it's often very subtle and the only way a rider will know the system has activated is the flashing light on the dash and the very smooth reduction in torque. When you get back inside the limits established by the mode the bike returns all the torque it has taken away smoothly providing it to the rider at the maximum safe rate. Coaches frequently recognize students running against the limits of the modes and suggest higher modes as needed. Despite my initial doubts and intimidation of riding a 1L machine I quickly fell in love with the bike. So much in love I bought twins.

What are you wearing when you "feel the heat" on your RR? I'm guessing it's probably jeans. The frame on these bikes gets pretty hot and your leathers are pretty good at insulating you from that heat. As well the bikes tend to get "hotter" idling in traffic than they do on the expressway as you have found. On track with the school you likely did not do much sitting in slow moving traffic even for the morning sessions that are a bit slower than normal. The other problem that I have is that when riding on the street I don't ride on the ball of my feet like I do on the track. This gets my leg closer to the hot frame. I have found that I can easily get my legs away from the frame by using a more track style foot position. There's a few things you can do to make this a bit better of a situation. They sell carbon fibre frame covers that not only look great but they put a layer of material that does not conduct heat as well between your leg and the frame. If carbon is not your style you could easily buy a pair and modify them with some black spray paint. Higher engine modes tend to make it hotter. Rain and Sport mode tend to make my bike run a teeny bit cooler (less aggressive fuel map). Sport and Slick are the hottest modes both performance wise and heat wise. When you find yourself in bumper to bumper traffic drop it into rain mode. It does not help much but it does help a little. Once the frame gets hot it stays pretty warm so if you know you will be dealing with traffic start out with Rain or Sport. Both of these modes are quite tolerable and provide more than enough power for street riding. Most powerful 1L bikes get hot in some way. Some are worse than others and the BMW has a bit of a heat problem being the most powerful production bike you can get out of a showroom. I'm sure you remember the first generation Panigale's that were so hot that Ducati had to change the design a bit to keep from roasting it's owners unmentionable parts. It could be much much worse though. I own an MV Agusta F4 that gets REALLY hot. On a hot day in traffic you are often watching the temp indicator like a hawk to make sure you don't overheat the bike. You have to shut off the engine at lights from time to time. These bikes did this from brand new. Owners regularly report of the bike getting so hot that the plastic cooling fans melt. When dealing with traffic I will often loose my rear brakes because the master cylinder is located so close to the exhaust that the fluid boils. My bike even has additional heat shielding and higher rated brake fluid to try to cope with the heat but it does not help much. I'm perfectly ok with this rather glaring design issue. It's rare for me to get caught in traffic and I understand the limits and take it easy. The harsh reality is many of the 1L Superbikes on the market were designed to go fast first and to ride on the street second. The BMW is one of the more street friendly bikes out there even with the hot frame. I hope this helps you and stay cool out there! Despite the burning knee's you have an RR and that makes you cooler already.

This video might be helpful. Troy Corser is a seriously fast guy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeMSfgb5tks&feature=youtu.be Here's the thing that I learned this past time at Barber with the school. My coach identified some concerns with my body position that I did not completely agree with and we butted heads a bit to the point where Cobie stepped in to help us sort it out. Cobie spent some time with me showing me the schools way of locking on and moving around on the bike. I tried it the "schools way" out on track and managed to identify some benefits of doing it that way. The most important factor of anything you do on a bike is if it works for you. We are all built differently and have different physical and mental situations (comfort level and fears). Our bikes are also all different even if they are the same model due to the massive amount of configuration changes you can make. My way works better for me on my bike and I have gone back to my previous style of hanging off. I have however taken the helpful elements of what Cobie demonstrated and have integrated them in. Cobie likely will be glad to hear I'm no longer sitting too far back in the seat and have a much better lock on the bike using more surface area of the side of my leg. I'm back to using a lot more backside off the seat though. There's no right or wrong answers. Only what works. The school's technique obviously works well for most riders otherwise they would not be teaching it. It does not work well for my current set of variables so I have chosen the way that works for me with the elements I found most helpful from the school's way. Many of the variations you will see with professional riders from the "by the book" way are adaptations similar to mine. Is my way the "right way" for me? Even that's uncertain. I'm keeping an open mind and will continue to experiment. One of these days I may even find myself doing it exactly as my coach and Coby showed me. Riding of course is a journey that never ends. Even the professionals are constantly evolving and getting faster. A lot faster than me I can assure you!

Something else to consider... What is lean angle a function of? Hint: Without this no matter how perfect the body position your knee will never touch. It's also impossible to see in a static photo. Interestingly enough this element of riding is what you are really after rather than the knee touching the pavement.

Hmmm. The R1 "as powerful as" the BMW with some updates? How many R1's took podiums this year in the IOM TT? How many BMW's did? Bonus question. Which very successful rider intended to ride an R1 in 2015 and then abandoned that idea right before the race to ride a recycled previous generation and season's bike to be competitive? What brand was the bike? In regards to the knee lock. Ironically this was something that I had some issues with this year. Cobie spent some time showing me how I was shooting myself in the foot with my form. I was sitting too far back in the seat. Not only did this reduce the surface area of my body locked onto the bike but my weight shifted that far back in the seat made my bike more interested in doing wheelies than getting a solid drama free drive down the straight. I'll plant one last idea. The RR Superleggera 2016 Model BMW with Premium Package $20K BST Wheels $3500 Carbon Bodywork Painted any color you wish $2800 HP Power kit w/ Akra TI Exhaust $3500 Lithium Battery For just under 30K that's a quite sexy track day weapon that's an absolute pleasure to ride.

Just got back in from Barber. I'm absolutely exhausted. Had an awesome time of course. Keith Code himself was my Level 4 consultant the first day and Jon Groom the second day. Amazing insight from both of course. Keith helped me with my "overthinking" problem a bit (quite the tall order) and Jon helped me understand how throttle control ultimately affects line choice which is something I have battled for quite some time now. I had Gerry Signorelli as my on track coach who cared enough to say what needed to be said and really helped me achieve goals that were really needed. He really challenged me both on and off the track. While every coach I have ever worked with at the school has been world class I could not have been given a better coach for the specific things I needed help with. Coby and Johnny pitched in to help me with some body position issues that desperately needed some overhauling. Both Betty and Jeff had an awesome time as well and made amazing advances in their riding abilities. Off to bed here. If you are on the fence about attending a school yourself. Just do it. The things you will learn in just one day at the school are much cheaper than any aftermarket parts you could buy for your bike. And you get to keep those skills forever.

Yea the test ride is the only way to know for sure. I have a few friends with R1's and I'm sure I could wrangle a test ride if I really wanted to. Of course that would probably end up with them wanting to try my BMW so I have not asked. I think N2 has a partnership with Yamaha and occasionally gets demo bikes for people to try at their track days. You may want to consider getting in contact with them and seeing if you can get some extended time with one. BMW has partnered a few times with the school to use their fleet bikes and have a few customer demo bikes floating around that have been used to give demo's at the track for several dealer events. As the industry evolves I have a feeling that in a few years test rides at the track may become more of a common thing. It's a great way to demonstrate the performance features of a motorcycle.

Awesome! We are already making arrival plans in AL. See you there Hotfoot! It's going to be an awesome weekend.

Ride them both on the street and on the track. The one for you will become obvious quickly. Don't sell short the updates in the 2015+ models. They updated the frame, geometry and DTC calibration as well as added some power. Last year at the school I took the 2015 out for a session and was really amazed at how well the bike handled and performed. I'll agree the updates were "minor" but they made a world of difference with the bike. For about a day afterwards if there had been a BMW dealer nearby I would have had a new bike. Until I came to my senses a bit. I realized that while the idea of having the "latest and greatest" bike is really nice the big thing limiting my on track performance is not really the bike. A new bike can make life easier but you are still faced with the same challenges and issues that you have on the old one. I'm keeping one of my RR's mostly stock to act as a constant reminder of this. I really want to ride one of the new R1's and see what it's like. Before my first BMW I owned several Yamaha's. Here's my take on the "differences" between the BMW and the R1. Power - BMW is more powerful. R1 is certainly not a slouch by any stretch of the imagination. Electronics - Yamaha has come out of nowhere with great electronics including yaw control. BMW's were always good but they set the benchmark as we know it. With the Yamaha you have to have the R1M to get data and even at that you are limited to a smartphone. BMW does it differently with no smartphone app but 2d software much like MotoGP and WSBK. BMW does not have "yaw control" but in actuality if you want to drift the rear tire it's just a few settings in the Race Calibration Kit. Yamaha just gave it a fancy name. I think for a lot of riders Yamaha's system is a lot more useful if you are racing however it's probably a bit limiting. There's always a give and take. Make it easier to use and you loose things in the process. Handling - The Yamaha weighs less than the BMW and that's pretty telling all by itself. The articles I have read about the bike speak wonders about it's handling. This is all kind of misleading though. BMW tends to make their bikes quite street friendly. Just the heated grips and cruise control tells you that. It's really difficult to compare bikes that are configured differently. If I wanted to truly compare handling I would want two bikes with a neutral suspension person. Get both bikes setup to be their best and see where you are at. With the Yamaha's weight it's likely going to have an edge over the BMW. Probably not by much though. One other thing to consider. What are the tracks like where you ride? The R1 is doing something very interesting. Their focus seems to be handling which is interesting really. On tracks where the R1 would have an edge over the BMW many 600's and 750's would be quite competitive with the R1. On even tighter tracks Hotfoot would be leaving all of the 1L monsters in her wake. Don't worry you would not be able to hear her laughter over the exhaust note of her bike. My point is though think about the type of tracks that you ride at. Whatever the appropriate tool is BMW or R1 know it's strengths and weaknesses and be able to minimize the weaknesses and maximize the strengths. The appropriate tool might not even be a 1L Superbike at all.

Forged wheels and some minor geometry tweaks (flipping the rear eccentric) fix the RR's turn in. Mine corners a bit too eagerly at times and makes 600cc bikes seem heavy in comparison. Many of those handling complaints really only affect the first and second generation bikes. The R1 and RR are pretty well matched as are most of the other bikes in their class. The differences that you see in the tests come down to the way it's setup out of the showroom floor. BMW is conservative in their setup and it's intended to be a road going bike. Riding my completely stock RR often really makes me appreciate my track bike and it's setup. The choice really comes down to your intended use and personal preference rather than one "truly" being better or worse than the other for any particular metric. All of the bikes can be tuned to the point where it's really the rider that determines the outcome of a race. Even though the R1 is "down on power" in comparison to the BMW I'm certain that I would not test my fate against a Motoamerica racer at a track day on his R1 racebike on the straight even with my very powerful BMW. One other word of wisdom for those out there shopping for a new bike. Take what you read with a grain of salt. Bias exists everywhere. It's an unavoidable part of human nature. I'm biased towards BMW's. If I road tested an R1 vs a BMW and wrote an article the BMW would become the better choice. Many of the journalists have this same bias that comes out in their writing to whatever their natural bias is. One other word of wisdom. The RR has been refreshed every two to three years since the bike existed. 2010-2011 was the first generation. 2012-2014 was the second generation. 2015-2016 is the most recent version. If BMW continues with this pattern a new one will probably hit the market in 2017 or 2018. With the increased competition in the market I have a feeling the next one will likely be ground breaking like the 2010 model was when it first hit the market. Pure speculation of course but with the recent evolution and "catch up" happening in the market the timing could not be more perfect. Even if you don't wait specifically for the BMW that timing could be interesting as well for other manufacturers that are "guessing" what BMW might do with the RR. Regardless of who's logo is on the side of your tank it's an awesome time to be a buyer of modern Superbikes. We are getting some new and ground breaking technology that only previously existed in some of the more exotic forms of racing. Race grade traction control, Race grade data telemetry, Active suspension technology, Crazy power output and many many other things never seen on a consumer level bike.

Hey, Excited to be going to Barber and riding on Saturday and Sunday learning a lot of great stuff. Anybody else from the forum going? Betty, Jeff (Scrmnduc) and I will be there. We usually head to dinner afterwards if anybody is interested.

Very cool. Out of all the possible "rented" vehicles you can get CSS fleet bikes are the fastest and most fun.

Not too wild looking. I have a bright blue suit that I have worn on the street. Strange looks aside I would rather be protected.

I pretty frequently wear a 1pc suit when going out for a street ride. You get the occasional oddball question when you are in a store but generally beyond that people for the most part don't even notice you. I wear a 1pc most of the time on the street with the exception of going to work or going out to eat somewhere nice. I do however know some people who wear a 1pc suit to work and then change in the bathroom into regular clothes and then change back into their suit to go home. One other thing. I find that color choice does affect how much you can blend into the woodwork. Darker suits tend to blend in really well while brightly colored ones don't.

Looks great on the bike!

Impressive carbon fabrication skills there. Those look amazingly well constructed! Not a bad idea to protect them either. An expensive piece of hardware.

I read the threads. I comment infrequently because I don't watch the races and would not really describe myself as a race fan. The highlights themselves are somewhat interesting and I do loosely pay attention to those. I probably am in the minority here but perhaps not. I am interested in friends and their racing experiences. I admire their passion, dedication and goals. I probably have read more about YellowDuc's racing than I have about MotoGP. Recently serving as pit crew in a friends race was a unique perspective as well. As for the "you ride at the track so you must be interested in racing" idea. We all have different reasons for going to the track. My own reason is far removed from speed alone. I ride at the track because I enjoy the experience. It gives me the opportunity to improve my riding and learn an incredible amount of stuff you can't really learn anywhere else. It's also a lot of fun being able to go as fast as you desire. I'm sure other riders have their reasons. Someone interested in mechanical things might look at track riding as a way of learning about how faster than normal speeds affect the hardware. I have a few friends that have that theme in their track experiences. Their desire for speed usually revolves around being able to observe tires and suspension under heavy loads. Just because the reasons are different does not mean the passion is not still there. The passion just has a slightly different focus. To state the obvious many people would not subject themselves to the risk and expense of riding at the track unless they were passionate about it. An interesting quote from Twist of the Wrist I. "I'm going to begin this book with a little confession. I've never really been all that interested in racing - I just wanted to ride." Hopefully this gives you a bit of insight.

I have a set of Woodcraft warmers too. Some of the thickest warmers I have ever seen that barely make it under the rear fender of my bike. MotoD and Chickenhawk make thinner ones that might work better for you. MotoD have a new version coming soon that has some rumored features that could be quite cool. I have a set of their computer controlled warmers that are quite good.

I could see that actually. The Q3 has a great feel to it and it's profile makes the tire let the bike turn very well. The Supercorsa SP is a more rounded profile. When I switched from Q3's to the Supercorsa SP it took me a while to adapt to the rounder profile. It was worth it however as the Supercorsa SP seems to have a bit more grip to it which you need on a 1L machine. I also had the same "what the heck" reaction when I was adapting to the Pirelli's. When I switched to the full Superbike Slicks it was interesting as well. Same profile but the tire is stiffer. Mid corner the bike feels more solid and planted. They seem to also be more predictable everywhere in my short time riding on them. I may be riding on Pirelli's these days but I still love the Q3. It's a great tire. Last year at the school I took a school bike out for a few sessions and it was like visiting with an old friend. The Q3's are very confidence inspiring.

Over the years I have learned that I'm a bit of an oddball in comparison to other riders out there. Most of my riding problems are usually the complete opposite of that of others. I also ride an S1000RR with more power than stock and modified DTC maps so slicks make more sense for me. My decision to use these tires goes against the grain of the traditional thinking but then again so do I as a rider. In my opinion the most important thing you can have in a set of tires is trust in them and the actual grip they provide. Everything else is secondary. Slicks may indeed hide rider mistakes but pretty much all modern tires do that at some level or another. It's also important to remember that some of those mistakes that they are hiding are unrecoverable and will result with you having an "agricultural experience". Are you willing to go there to learn from your mistake? I'm not! Especially when there are other ways to learn how to fix those mistakes. Many people make a tire choice based on traditional thinking without fully understanding how it really affects them. In my opinion a lot of that traditional thinking comes from the observation of professional riders and their experience as children on dirt bikes. It also applies to a lot of older bikes and tires that are no longer applicable to what we ride today. If you are going fast enough to break traction on a modern 200hp bike with traction control you already have a lot of skill as a rider to do that safely or you are riding way over your head. If you are riding over your head tire choice is not going to change anything. If you have the skill and the training when the time comes that it does break traction you will do the right thing and be absolutely fine. On your Q3's. Are they providing you the grip you want? Do you trust them? Are there properties of other tires you would like to have? Are you running warmers already? On the slicks you are considering. Do you have a tire in mind? Do you understand the properties this tire has? Do you understand what you will be giving up and the extra effort required to run that tire?

It's really a matter or riding style more than lean angle and speeds. You could have two riders of similar speed and one could grind knee pucks to bits while the other rarely touches. I have seen riders at track days knee down and looking great for the cameras being passed mid corner by someone who's not even touching or even using aggressive body position. I agree totally with the points both YellowDuck and khp have made about this. I also agree with the general sentiment of how bad an idea it is to make that kind of cornering commitment on public roads. Leaned over that far with a lot of speed there aren't any options available to you if something unexpected happens. Debris, oil and leaked coolant on roads also makes traction questionable at best even with the best tires. Then there's the questions of tire temperature, tire pressure and the changing asphalt composition. Lots and lots of variables. It's impossible to take them all into account. I know riders who are very lucky going fast in the North Georgia Mountains on street tire pressures not realizing that as they go faster their tires grow in pressure even more. Some of them have not been so lucky.

You aren't the only one with issues. I myself have general flexibility issues that prevents me from really moving around on the bike in the way I really want to. I'm doing stretching exercises that have helped a lot. One of the things I found really helpful was during my Level 4 class last year. One of the coaches picked up on my flexibility problems and took some time to work with me on a bike on a stand in the paddock. It helped me a lot. I still struggle with flexibility but it's not been slowing me down. I'm still making improvements and I'm still having lots of fun. One of the things I noticed about your photos is the position of your head and upper body. It looks like you are adapting to your limitations already in your riding without even realizing it. The head is the heaviest single part of the human body and it's way up high giving you lots of leverage. Your head and upper body are well positioned in those photos. The only suggestion I would have is to extend your elbow a bit to give you even more ability to lower your head and stick it out. The lower and farther off the center line of the bike the more weight you shift. That's really all there is to body position. Shifting the weight to use less lean angle. That gives you more ground clearance and gets you onto the more stable part of the tire so you can go faster. While the textbook example of body position is great to have more important than that is a body position that works for you. We all bring different issues to the table with us and those textbook examples don't take those into account. Being comfortable and confident is the most important aspect of anything when you ride.