Hotfoot
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Posts posted by Hotfoot
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Not an expert in this. It sounds like your one temperature setting is too high. I would reduce the time I have them turned on. I would suggest a procedure like this:
Pit, put tire warmers on but off.
At the start of the session prior to yours, turn the tire warmers on.
That'll give you about 20 minutes on the warmer.
I have chicken hawk warmers with three temperature settings. I run the medium setting for 40 minutes like you're saying, that keeps the tires at ~150 degrees. The High temp is ~170 and the low is 130 something.
The reason why it's recommended that the rim get warm too is to retain heat longer when the bikes are gridding up for a race.
Thank you, this is helpful. It seems obvious now, but it had not occurred to me to measure the actual temp the warmers are maintaining. I will check it out. I think I remember hearing that the one setting on them is 180, and relative to your Chicken Hawks, that certainly does sound high. Your suggestion of running them just 20 minutes is a good plan, I'll give that a try, and if keep doing this racing stuff I guess I'll have to get a better set of warmers. My little third place trophy from yesterday is good encouragement to spend more money!
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I realized recently that I have an uncertainty on quick turns, hopefully someone help me understand this better.
I noticed in some turns (for example, Turn 4 at Streets of Willow, or Turn 9 at CA Speedway) many riders will approach the turn on a bending line to get to their turn point, then turn it more when they actually reach the turn point. I am comfortable quick-turning the bike when it is stood straight up, but a little unsure about quick turning it if I am already leaned over.
So, I guess my question is this: if you are already leaned over some, like when you are entering a long decreasing radius turn, is there a limitation on how fast you can then quick turn the bike? Can you quick turn as aggressively when you are leaned over, say, 1/3 of full lean, as you can when you are fully upright? I am assuming, of course, that traction is good and you are off the brakes.
I think I am a little confused on this concept because I know a "mid-corner steering correction" is a bad thing, and this seems like a variation of that.
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Hey all, I have a track day planned for the 30th at big Willow, and while I am there I'm also going to do the "New Racer School" that the Willow Springs Motorcycle Club requires for participation in WSMC events.
My question for everyone is this: will my current tires be sufficient?
They are in great shape, certainly not worn out but they are just regular Michelin Pilot Powers (link HERE) and although I think they'll be fine for me I was wondering what kind of tires (besides Dunlop) the CSS uses on their bikes for the schools, and if anybody thinks I will NEED to have a track specific tire (like Power Ones of BT003 or the Dunlop equivalent)?
Anyways, I guess that's it. This question is officially open to the Cornering Forum Brain Trust!
Those tires will be great, they have plenty of grip, warm up fast, and last a long time. I would not recommend switching to the Power Ones unless you are riding REALLY, REALLY fast. They are super stiff and hard to warm up if you don't use warmers, and if you are doing the school you won't want to use warmers. Plus they cost more!
IMHO, the Pilot Powers are pretty similar in grip and handling characteristics to the Dunlops that CSS uses on school bikes.
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Hotfoot,
Drum roll, please..........................................................................
................. I think, if this is cold tire pressure you are giving me, that you are to hard in the front and to soft in the rear! Don't worry about the blueing thats normal.
This one is Dunlop slick 31 psi hot http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/dt...51/IMG_7439.jpg three track days
This one is Michelin slick 27 psi hot http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/dt...51/IMG_7441.jpg one track day
I too was slipping around on the Michelin rear. A 22 psi cold tire would be about 27 to 28 psi hot. I have always seen more wear on the Michelin power race than any other tire I have used.
Recommended pressure for the Michelin Power Race from the Michelin distributor at the track is 29 front and 22 rear, cold pressure, which is why I run at those pressures. My tires look like your Dunlop photo, not like the Michelin photo. I would definitely think, if I saw that kind of wear, that something was wrong, it looks like it is melting! The only time I have ever gotten that sort of wear was on my 636 when my rear suspension settings were WAY too hard, on a really hot day, and I overworked the tire so much that it got way too hot and I got streaks and globs like that. I was sliding, because apparently the rubber was melting faster than it was shedding off.
I have been running at these same pressures for a long time - both before and after I started using warmers - but the problem of the tires getting slick is new, since I started using the warmers.
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Hotfoot,
You just need to slow down!
I was thinking about this. There are many factors that come into play here from how long you have the warmers on, tire pressure, track condtition, track temperature and the way you ride. Is it both tires that are getting greasy? Where is the wear? What is the tire compound?
I normally fill my tires with air at the track with in a couple of pounds over my normal cold tire pressure, I heat the tires 40 minutes before my first track session and do not take the warmers off until the third call. I immediately put the warmers back on after each session and check the tire pressure 4 to 5 times during the day. During lunch break, I turn the power off but leave the warmers on until about thirty minutes before I go out for the first session after lunch. After the day is over I unplug my warmers and leave them on the tire for as long as I can to let the tires cool at a slow rate.
I was just admiring how beautiful my rear tire looks. I'll take a picture and post it in the thread later. It has three track days on it.
Thanks for the info Fossil... here are some answers to your questions.
I am running Michelin Power Race tires (PRC front and PR3 rear), and have been running this model of tire for a while. I was getting 4 track days and never noticing any decline at all in performance, without using warmers. After 4 or more days I'd change the tires but they still looked great and I either sold the take offs or kept them for future use.
Now I am running with warmers and in the middle of my SECOND track day on a set of tires I noticed I was having trouble with the back tire sliding around a lot when slowing for turns. Later in the day I started to notice less grip on the edges on the front tire. I never noticed any trouble with rear tire leaned-over drive slides, but I would not say I was pushing it very hard since it was sliding all over PRIOR to the turn! The tire wear looks fine, same as it did without warmers, but I see some blueing on the edges that I don't normally get. There is wear on the sides of the tires but very little wear in the middle. I get little balled up bits of rubber on the outer 1/4 of the rear tire, but they are not streaked or melted and they are small bits.
I ride 20 minutes, then put the warmers on after the session, so they are on for 40 minutes between sessions. I run like this all day with no lunch break. The warmers have no temp display but they do turn on and off to maintain a temperature, there is an indicator light for on or off. Tire pressure is 30 in front and 22 in back and I do not typically check it through the day.
Before anyone mentions it, I do realize that it isn't particularly difficult to ride without warmers and that you can get good tire life without them, but I am trying to get used to them so I can use them for racing, otherwise I get clobbered in the first lap. These tires have less grip when cold than the street model tires like the Pilot Power, so I have to go pretty slow in the first lap or two. The new PowerOnes are REALLY slick when cold and SUPER stiff, I don't think I can run those at all without warmers.
So, with all that info... do you think I am over-cooking my tires? Is there any way to tell?
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Help, I am confused about tire warmers. I recently started using them, at the insistence of my track buddies and tire supplier. The logic from them was that I wouldn't have to 'waste' the first few laps warming up tires, and that the tires would last a lot longer due to reduced heat cycles. I do enjoy the good grip on the first laps and the increased compliance of the warm tires, that's working out well, however it seems to me that my tires are NOT lasting as long as before - they got slippery (kinda greasy) in just two track days.
This would seem to indicate that I am 'cooking' the tire. So, how do you know how long to run warmers? I asked a tire guy at the track and he said, "you have to run the warmers at least twenty minutes to get the rims and tires warm." Then I asked him how long I can leave the warmers on, and he said "not more than twenty minutes at a time." Uh... so I have to run them EXACTLY twenty minutes? "No, you have to run them at LEAST twenty minutes." Eventually I gave up on that conversation.
Anyway, the track days usually run twenty minutes on track, forrty minutes off. Most people seem to leave their warmers on the whole time between sessions. My warmers have only one temp setting, no adjustment. I do not have any instructions with them, I bought them used.
How is this supposed to work, and what am I doing wrong if I am overcooking the tires, or how do I know if I am?
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Hey guys I don't race or anything (yet!), but I always hang around the track on raceday and I was talking to this one guy that was planning on writing a book on motorcycle racing techniques.
He told me the reason some of the guys go really fast for a few laps and then slow down considerably (from leading the pack to being ditched in 5th place), is because the longer a race goes on the more we think about the corner we just took. My local track doesn't have a long straightaway so there aren't any breaks, therefore our mind "lags" so behind that it makes our performance worse and worse. Eventually, we'll probably be entering corners while our mind wanders a few corners away?
I don't quite understand this concept, and I sure as heck didn't find it in twist of the wrist either. Could some of you pros explain this to me please?
I ain't a pro... but I do find that as I get physically tired, it is harder to maintain concentration. So my suspicion is that you are seeing riders that are either getting physically tired and losing physical strength, or getting physically tired or dehydrated and losing concentration, or losing confidence and focus due to thinking too much about errors or about getting passed. I suppose also if someone has a huge adrenaline surge due to a a wild start or a big error (a scare), that when the adrenaline wears off they could get zoned out. I know I've seen riders that ride over their head that get exhausted REALLY quickly.
I do firmly believe that you have to train yourself to keep your focus and avoid reflecting on anything except what is in front of you, when you are trying to go fast. When you are practicing or training, you have to slow down to allow yourself some extra attention to spend on observing the result of changes you make. I think you can find more info in Soft Science on this.
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Why not get an adapter bracket made to mount the Gilles to? Isn't that a great idea?
That's a great idea. Can you make me one?
I need it by next Saturday...If I didn't know you, I would say you could be suggestively sarcastic. But since I do know you, I would say you most definitely are. And I was just trying to be helpful....
Well, I have been known to be suggestive, and occasionally even sarcastic, but in this case I really would like for you to make me a bracket.
It IS a good idea, I didn't mean to sound sarcastic. The rearsets are really cool and I don't really want to have to replace them.I'm going to try high heel boots, maybe that will help too.
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Why not get an adapter bracket made to mount the Gilles to? Isn't that a great idea?
That's a great idea. Can you make me one?
I need it by next Saturday... -
Can anyone recommend rearsets that adjust up and forward? All the ones I've seen seem to go up and back. On my old bike I got Satos and mounted them upside down and backwards, and that gave me a forward adjustment, but I don't know if you can still do that on the newer ZX6Rs. Currently I have those really cool Gilles VCR38GTs, which come forward a little, but not enough.
I'd appreciate any ideas.
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How to get faster? Here's my ideas:
Invest in yourself, not the bike. Here's a picture of #86 Lars Remsen and me battling for 4th place here. In this picture, I'm actually trying to pass him on the outside (I never did make it around.) I'm going faster than Lars but look at the ground clearance issues Lars is having versus me.
photo by Lisa Theobald.The difference is from a quicker turn-in, a different turnpoint, different body position and other things that combine to make the difference. How close to the edge do you want to be?
It's all practice. Until I'm getting paid to go fast, it's all practice. In other words, I don't try to force it.
I pay attention to the people passing me, where they're passing me and where they're gaining time on me in the corner. Prior to the next session I think about what drill from the school I need to work on to make that happen. For instance, if someone is pulling away from me at the exit of a corner I may need to work on the 3-step or the hook turn or the pickup drill. I then work on that drill.
I ride just at the edge of my comfort zone. In a specific turn I'll push that zone, either on entry, mid-corner, or on exit, by braking later/earlier, braking harder/less, changing my turnpoint, my mid-cornerpoint, etc... 1 turn, 1 session. It's all practice. I either do this in the turn that makes the most difference to the fastest part of the track or that I'm just not comfortable in.
For me, this does few things:
1. It pushes my comfort zone in one known area in a specific way.
2. It makes the rest of the track easier because my comfort zone is being pushed a little.
3. It makes my times more consistent.
A lot of times what I find is that I start working on whatever I'm working on in every corner. This makes me work and I'm pretty tired after the session. Next session, I'll really work on getting the sames laptimes but getting relaxed.
As for sliding, I've come to the conclusion that finding the traction band is a bad thing. What I mean by that is doing something and waiting to see if the bike slides and trying to feel when it does is a reverse way of riding. It's making the bike tell you what to think. You're riding around a corner going, "I don't know." I don't think that's so good - it depends almost entirely on reaction time.
What I think is good is going, "I'm going to make the bike slide here." Intentionally, knowingly, sliding the bike. This way you plan it. You get your body set, you do the pickup drill. This depends mostly on planning and execution and much less on reaction time.
WOW, this is a terrific post. You make some great points and the photo is VERY effective in driving them home! You just made me change my plan for my next pratice day!
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How to get faster? Here's my ideas:
Invest in yourself, not the bike. Here's a picture of #86 Lars Remsen and me battling for 4th place here. In this picture, I'm actually trying to pass him on the outside (I never did make it around.) I'm going faster than Lars but look at the ground clearance issues Lars is having versus me.
photo by Lisa Theobald.The difference is from a quicker turn-in, a different turnpoint, different body position and other things that combine to make the difference. How close to the edge do you want to be?
It's all practice. Until I'm getting paid to go fast, it's all practice. In other words, I don't try to force it.
I pay attention to the people passing me, where they're passing me and where they're gaining time on me in the corner. Prior to the next session I think about what drill from the school I need to work on to make that happen. For instance, if someone is pulling away from me at the exit of a corner I may need to work on the 3-step or the hook turn or the pickup drill. I then work on that drill.
I ride just at the edge of my comfort zone. In a specific turn I'll push that zone, either on entry, mid-corner, or on exit, by braking later/earlier, braking harder/less, changing my turnpoint, my mid-cornerpoint, etc... 1 turn, 1 session. It's all practice. I either do this in the turn that makes the most difference to the fastest part of the track or that I'm just not comfortable in.
For me, this does few things:
1. It pushes my comfort zone in one known area in a specific way.
2. It makes the rest of the track easier because my comfort zone is being pushed a little.
3. It makes my times more consistent.
A lot of times what I find is that I start working on whatever I'm working on in every corner. This makes me work and I'm pretty tired after the session. Next session, I'll really work on getting the sames laptimes but getting relaxed.
As for sliding, I've come to the conclusion that finding the traction band is a bad thing. What I mean by that is doing something and waiting to see if the bike slides and trying to feel when it does is a reverse way of riding. It's making the bike tell you what to think. You're riding around a corner going, "I don't know." I don't think that's so good - it depends almost entirely on reaction time.
What I think is good is going, "I'm going to make the bike slide here." Intentionally, knowingly, sliding the bike. This way you plan it. You get your body set, you do the pickup drill. This depends mostly on planning and execution and much less on reaction time.
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As Adam said, I don't think there is the uniform answer to the problem here. Yeah, you're going to be nervous, but I always found taking deep breaths on the grid works. Trying to put my attention onto my starting revs, making sure I'm thinking of the flag/lights clutch position etc, seems to help take my fultering nerves away a little. My heart still races terribly, but thats just adrenalin letting me know I'm still alive, and that can't be a bad thing can it...?
Bullet
I think I just identified a problem with how I asked my question. I asked for advice on how to stay "calm and sensible when the green flag drops". It occurs to me that if I was calm and sensible to begin with, I wouldn't even be DOING this crazy ****!!!
Seriously, though, looking at the replies above helped me to realize I just need to embrace the nervousness as part of the experience, and just enjoy the rush of excitement that comes from doing something so new and thrilling and scary.
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I could use some help... I'm rather new to the race scene and have an upcoming race which is my biggest race yet. How do you control your race nerves? I am worried about being calm and cool headed enough to get a good, smooth, fast start (in a big crowd!), keeping my wide view in a tight pack of riders, and being able to fight the urge to turn in early, something that I find happens when the adrenaline kicks in.
Any ideas/advice on how to stay calm and sensible, when the green flag drops?
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Well I appreciate everyone's input and it has helped a lot I think. It probably isn't too much of a surprise that , yes I did very recently have a very bad highside crash and I think got away with my life! = no serious injuries…there were a lot of reasons that contributed (and all stupid) but basically it went exactly as Dave said in his post…coming out of a turn..went right past the limit..front end gone… have know idea why…crashed and I learned absolutely nothing except those crashes hurt A LOT!
I think Dave kind of hit it though…you have to understand that point of traction/non traction and really know it! I think, Kiwi that is why Rossi hasn't crashed and can ride on the edge always…he knows exactly where and what that limit is. And I bet that probably is why Greg in his first post is doing some amazing racing stuff and still not crashing. Most of us mortals have no idea. And to be honest I still don't.
So if you continue to ride seems like there are two solutions (if we say crashing is not an option) #1 Stay far away from that point and basically you will always be safe (baring stupid stuff) but probably never really achieve what you can; and this is where you probably should be until you have really perfected your riding (as CSS says ride 75%)…but at some point you are going to want to go faster and then -----> #2 some how try and learn where that limit is and what it feels like without going over. Maybe Dave's idea of motocross might be a neat way of getting that feel…
Since you brought up the motocross idea, another idea is to try racing a smaller, slower bike - I made some really good progress on testing limits by doing some racing on a YSR50. You get to explore traction and handling limits, but at speeds that are much less intimidating, and track time is much cheaper.
I am bit slow to respond to your original question about crashing, but here you go: I decided to get back on a sportbike a little over two years ago, and decided I wanted to get fast. I have attended a number of schools and PLENTY of track days, and advanced from slow-and-scared in the street group to confident in the Expert group, and I've started racing. Zero crashes. I think, along the lines of what you say above, that if you keep your head (no red mist) and pay attention to what you are doing, approaching the limits gradually, you can certainly get faster without crashing. Training helps more than anything, of course; it's a lot quicker and less painful than trial and error!
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Guys,
I was back out on Thunderbolt last Sunday. This was my first track day since having competed the 2 day CSS program last May. I have to say, it was very frustrating trying to remember everything I learned at CSS! I defininitely was faster and more comfortable than any of my pre-CSS track days, but it wasn't the same as having a CSS coach right on your tail all day.
This was also my first track day with my new, (at least, "new,' for me,), R6 track bike that I bought immediately after doing CSS in May. While I don't like the R6 as much as K. Code's ZX6Rs, the bike performed flawlessly and I warmed up to it quickly. I also was lucky to run into Jody, (whom I had met at CSS in May), who had come down the night before. He had rented a room and paddock, and he insisted on sharing his paddock with me. It sure was nice to have a place to get out of the heat during the day and a place to take a quick shower during lunch. (Thanks Jody, you're the man!)
Based on my having completed the 2 day CSS course, Absolute Cycle put me in Group 3 even though I initially asked to be in Group 2. I was definately in the bottom half of Group 3, speed-wise, so I concentrated on following faster riders and and tried to keep up. But by lunch I was exhausted with the pace and asked to moved down to Group 2.
Afternoon sessions were much better. Morning sessions were quite crowded with 40+ riders in each group. But between crashes, (which were quite frequent, 3 or 4 an hour, all morning!), and attrition due to the heat, (it was in the mid 90ties with high humidity!), afternoon sessions were much less crowded. Additionally, I was one of the faster riders in group 2, so I got some practice passing, which I definitely wasn't getting in the morning sessions with group 3, where I was struggling to keep up.
Afterwards, a couple of people mentioned to me that I should have stayed in Group 3, 'cause the only way to get better, (short of going to CSS, of course!), is to push yourself by trying to keep pace with faster riders. There's a certain logic to that, but I don't know,...thoughts/opinions?
One thing for sure, I'm looking forward to returning to NJMP for the CSS 2 day school in two weeks!
Elton
Personally, I think this choice should depend on your goals for that day. If you want to work on your riding skills, you probably want to stay in group 2 where you can slow down a little and practice - if you are struggling to keep up, it's a big distraction, and can affect your concentration and the value of your practice time. However, if your goal is to improve your laptimes, find better lines, or find out what parts of the track present opportunities for improvement, you might go to Level 3 and see where/how you are getting passed, or try to tag along with some quicker riders to find new ways to approach corners. You can also observe where the faster riders are faster than you - which corners, and is it entry speed, mid-corner, or exit drive?
For me I make better improvements in a group that fits my skill level (i.e., not blowing past me!), however if I get a bit 'stuck' and I'm not really getting any gains, a swim in the deep end of the pool can provide considerable motivation.
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Cobie - what you say makes sense - adding throttle & lean at the same time. I'm not sure exactly what is going on thru the turn. I will describe briefly the difference between the "old" and "new" turn:
before: My turn entry speed slower, quick turn, lean angle less severe, I wait for bike to settle, speed scrubbing off, I get on the throttle slightly before the apex to maintain speed thru the turn.
after: Faster turn entry speed, quick turn, lean, throttle on to maintain speed thru turn. I find that my lean angle may be increasing more in the turn - yup you're right.
I guess that I'm increasing my lean angle thru the turn before the apex, therefore getting my knee to the ground at some point in the turn, instead of at the begining and all the way thru the turn? (Yes I get it - BAD)
Does Corner entry speed dictate lean angle from turn in point? If true does that mean my knee should be dragging from quick turn point thru past the apex. (Using knee as indicator only)
- getting on the throttle to MAINTAIN speed thru the corner?
Thanks
Hi YNOT,
I know you directed your question to Cobie, but I am curious about something, after reading your post above, hope you don't mind if I interject a question. When you initiate your turn-in, do you have a specific apex point you are aiming to? Or are you starting your turn, then finding you have to tighten your line a little bit more to make it to the apex you want?
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So, Mr. FossilFuel, how did your TOTW II studying go? Did you schedule a tryout? When and where?
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Do you mind just clarifying this one point.....
"Press inside knee into the tank and use the inner knee/thigh to help slide my arse across in to position for the turn."
When you say "inside knee" do you mean "inside of the knee", or the inside knee (i.e left knee in a left hander), or something else?
May seem a minor point, but if there's been a misunderstanding there it would certainly make things harder than they need to be, so we'll just make sure.
I'm pretty sure they are talking about using your right knee for a right turn to help get into position. I never actually thought about what muscles/body parts I used to get slid off the seat and into the hang off position. I think I usually lift off the seat with my legs and slide off to the side of the bike. It would probably make it a lot easier to just slide yourself over by using your inside knee so you don't get tired as quickly.
There's kind of a slick way to practice this and get the idea of how to use your knee to pull yourself across the bike. Put your bike on its kickstand, so it's leaned over to the left (you should have someone standing by to keep the bike from tipping over in case you get too exuberant). Get in a hang-off position for a left turn. Now use your RIGHT knee but NOT YOUR ARMS (take your hands off the bars completely if you can) to pull yourself back into the middle of the seat.
Since you are leaned to the left, and have to pull yourself up against gravity to get back into the seat, you can REALLY feel the muscles required. If you have someone supporting the bike for you, you could then try using that right knee to pull yourself over toward a right-side hang off position.
This was shown to me at the school, and doing it that way made it a LOT more obvious than trying it on a bike that's straight up on wheel stands.
I used to always lift up, scoot over, then sit back down, but as I got faster that action became more and more abrupt (almost a bounce), upsetting the bike and loosening my grip on it enough that a rough spot in the track would launch me up out of the seat a bit. When I started using my knee to pull myself across, it took less time, was more secure, and didn't upset the bike as much; it definitely worked better.
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Well I don't think I can afford a new trailer anytime to soon so I'll be using a friends when he goes to the track. So it will be strapped down but not for much longer then 3 or 4 hours anyway. I will definitely keep in mind to just lightly tighten the bike down and use four straps. I like the idea of that Pit Bull restraint system so when I get my own trailer I'll have to look into that.
Well here is how I posted the picture. First you need to upload the image to a site like PhotoBucket.com . After the picture is uploaded you can just hover the mouse over the picture and some web addresses will come up. Copy the one that says "Direct Link" then come back to this site and click on the "Insert Image" icon thats right under the font menu. Then paste the Direct Link address into the Insert Image box. Its a lot easier to do then it was to explain this!
Sorry I missed the "pin type stand that sits under the forks" part somehow. I'm also sorry for kind of hi-jacking your thread.
What? No hi-jacking here, your posts are informative and helpful, no worries at all. I'm glad to see you active here on the forum, the more the merrier, and thanks for helping with photos!
Cool looking bike, too, by the way!
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Heck yeah, Fossil, I think it would be fun to go knee to knee, elbow to elbow with you... oh wait, maybe that's not exactly what you said... well, anyway, racing would be fun, too!
So now I'm Relentless, huh? Maybe I'll put that on the back of my leathers.
Where you can see it.
For a while, anyway...
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Hotfoot,
If I had known that you were going to challenge me to these events I would have gotten three jobs to pay for all this. I guess it's never to late to pick up cans on the side of the road! I wish I could go back to Laguna Seca and the Code Race is definitely something I would like to do but the wife is starting to get a little irritated!
4-Nesba weekends
1-Sportbike Track Time weekend
1-Keith Code Laguna Seca (I don't think she should give me hell about a week in Monterey?)
1-WERA race weekend (Pirelli Series)
Pending Events
1-WERA National Series weekend
1-Jennings GP day
1-NESBA November Weekend
Oh yeah, I forgot I'm going to pick up a motorcycle this weekend only 19 hour drive one way and I have a tryout coming up. So yeah maybe after the divorce!
Seize the day, darlin'!
If you are capable, and willing, and can afford it, by God you oughtta do it! That's my philosophy, anyway. But, I am very lucky that my husband loves this stuff, too - I rarely get any grief about going to track days, he's right there with me. But it's definintely expensive, good grief.
You could try getting your wife into horseback riding, preferably dressage. It is equally expensive, time consuming, and absorbing. So you will have no money, but you'll both be very busy living life to its fullest.
What kind of bike are you getting? And when is your tryout? And where?
And I bet we can coordinate a WERA race one of these days (but CodeRace would be way more fun).
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It looks like you have the same front stand that I do. The only problem I had with mine was one pin was to small and the next size up was to large for the hole in my triple tree. It was a pretty soft metal though so a local machine shop took some material off of it for me easily.
When you said something about tie down systems I though it was something to keep the front suspension from compressing when you tie it down. I read somewhere on this forum that keeping the bike strapped down with the suspension compressed can hurt the front springs. Do they make anything like that for sportbikes? That other tie down system you were talking about sounds pretty good to
.We have the same brand of front stand but mine is the kind that hooks under the bottom of the front forks, not under the triple tree. The pins fit OK and I think there are different sizes available, but on this stand they are nylon, not metal. Thanks for posting the photos of your stands, that was pretty cool. Someday I'll figure out how to post pictures here.
Cobie was talking about a Pit Bull restraint system that doesn't require tie-downs at all, so you don't have to compress the suspension. It's new, I think, and you can see it on the Pit Bull website. I read somewhere about someone that used them and the bikes were secure even when their trailer popped off the hitch (gulp!) which reorganized almost everything ELSE in the trailer. Seems like a cool idea, the main reason I didn't look into those more is that I wanted to be able to remove the chocks easily and leave a flat floor, and if I remember correctly there is some hardware sticking up with the Pit Bull system.
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Hotfoot--you have also mentioned your tie down system--got any pictures or links to that?
CF
Gee, I don't know if THOSE pictures would make it through your Internet filtering system...
Oh, you mean the BIKE tie-downs! Right, the plastic wheel chocks. They are lightweight, reasonably priced and a clever design. One small criticism, they are a little wide for the sportbike front tire so they allow a little bit of turn to the front wheel, I'd like them better if they fit tighter. But, I LOVE the way the quick releases work, it's very easy to remove the chocks and nothing sticks up out of the floor. The manufacturer is Black&Gray, here is a link:
I need it by next Saturday...
Track Addict
in Cornering and Techniques
Posted
Hmmm, VIR on Monday...
Guess you better sign me up for Group Therapy, cuz when I read that I started wondering if I could fit that in my schedule.