Hotfoot
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Posts posted by Hotfoot
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Wow, Steve, this is fantastic. I am SO GLAD you are here. That is the best, most understandable, concise summary of the Dunlop models I have seen or heard from anyone, and believe me, I've been asking!
I have been running Q2s on my 600cc bike, even in WERA races (I used to run Power Ones but I like the Q2 much better), and you are the FIRST person that has made me interested in moving up to a more race-oriented Dunlop tire. The Q2s are pretty amazing but now I look forward to trying some of the other models, and I am SO pleased that I finally have a place to go to get info about them.
While you are discussing available tire models, I just got a Moriwaki MD250. It has Bridgestone slicks on it right now. What models does Dunlop have for this terrific little bike?
Thanks for the props!
The MD250 uses the same tires as the 125gp class. KR149 front and KR133 rear. The same tires used by the RedBull Rookies Cup riders and USGPRU competitors.
You can always call me to get specific information on any racing tire application.
Wonderful, thanks. I called a Dunlop vendor a few months ago and asked which model tire I should use on the Moriwaki and he asked me to measure the rim and call him back. I told him I thought they were the same as the RS125 tire, but he didn't agree. As you might imagine, I didn't buy anything from him. Anyway, I am really, really glad to have someone here who knows what he is doing, thanks for the model numbers, you saved me some effort and now I'll buy some Dunlops.
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One point on wet riding (there are a few, maybe we ought to do a whole thread on that), is find the traction limit with the rear tire. not the front. Seems like a pretty basic idea, but we do see it violated pretty often.
So... you mean, panic and grab the front brake is not the best traction test? Darn, that's going to be hard to remember in the rain.
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Wow, Steve, this is fantastic. I am SO GLAD you are here. That is the best, most understandable, concise summary of the Dunlop models I have seen or heard from anyone, and believe me, I've been asking!
I have been running Q2s on my 600cc bike, even in WERA races (I used to run Power Ones but I like the Q2 much better), and you are the FIRST person that has made me interested in moving up to a more race-oriented Dunlop tire. The Q2s are pretty amazing but now I look forward to trying some of the other models, and I am SO pleased that I finally have a place to go to get info about them.
While you are discussing available tire models, I just got a Moriwaki MD250. It has Bridgestone slicks on it right now. What models does Dunlop have for this terrific little bike?
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Seems like a theme might be starting - parents said no, boy got a bike.
Not just boys, girls too! My mom said NO when I wanted to ride, but when I went to college my boyfriend and I bought a Honda XL250R together, and kept it a secret from BOTH sets of parents. My feet didn't touch the ground on it, I used to pull over to the curb to stop. It was my only transportation and I was in school in Illinois - I still remember trying to kick start that thing in freezing cold weather, and it used to always stall at the first stop sign when it was cold - luckily it was on a hill so I learned to keep it rolling through the stop sign and pop the clutch to restart it.
My dad still can't stand hearing me talk about riding, I hide the race photos when he comes over.
So, Pete, if you were 10 when you started wanting a bike... and your mom said "not while you're under my roof"... I'm wondering, how old were you when you got thrown out of the house?
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Hello All,
All I want to do is set my tire pressure, but on my bike, I have such a hard time even reaching my valve stems. Then, when I get the hose in there, the chuck or tip won't lock up tight. My front tires is still low. My back tire has, maybe 25# and it's supposed to have 41#, but I just can't get a tight enough seal to fill the darned thing all the way up! It's very frustrating.
How do you fill your tires? I'm thinking a hand pump or foot pump made for bicycle tires might work. Something that "locks" or clips in place and has a tire pressure gauge build in. Or, is there a different chuck that a "real" tires store or motorcycle shop might have out in the garage? I hate that uncertain feeling when my tires are off. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Best wishes,
Crash
I bought a cheap electric pump at an auto parts store (Pep Boys, if you have those near you), I think it was about $20. It plugs into the wall, has a nice gauge on it and has the clamp-type valve attachment, like a bicycle pump, so it locks onto the valve stem easily and can be removed rapidly without losing a lot of air. It plugs into the wall, so it's not good at the track where you usually don't have power. It's slow but that actually makes it easier to get the pressure right on a bike tire. It could fill a car tire, too, in a pinch, but it would take a while! I'll see if I can find the brand and model for you.
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Thanks! That sounds like a good time to head down there then! So time to start making arrangements.
It's a desert area and can be surprisingly chilly in the morning, even when temps are expected to get to mid-70s or higher, so bring warm stuff to wear in the morning. Usually by the time you get on track the temperature is really nice. April should be a nice time to go!
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Well,
@ crash106 apples and bananas..., 20 years old two-stroke without TC, ride by wire and with narrow temprange tires compared to modern day four-stroke with every electronic aid in the world plus multicompound widetemp range tires.... that's why, simple as..
On the subject of a toplevel rider would have/will gone/go slower if they followed Keiths teachings, well the top ten guys would, because they follow no rules, if they want the bike to turn on a plate, they chop the throttle completely (mamola) and don't crash like the rest of us. If they had to adhere to the fairly rigid rules that is CSS, then they would hit a upper limit that you and I don't know exist. But for 99,9% of riders, CSS teachings make them faster, safer and give a better understanding of the bikes reactions.
Ronni
Quite a few world champs listed as students in Keith's bio, and of course I can't wait to see how far Leon Camier, Austin DeHaven, and other current students go, I don't buy that the top guys would be slowed down by following Keith's teachings. Also I think its worth noting that Keith's coaching does continue to evolve, and changes as bikes change. For example, the change to the BMWs has resulted in some new teaching techniques that the coaches can use, making use of the BMWs electronics.
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Bummer, Fossil. Sorry to hear you are injured and uncomfortable. Sounds like your attitude is good, which is either admirable or a sign of heavy medication.
I bet you're bored, let me know when you can laugh and I'll send you a bunch of redneck jokes or something. I hope you aren't stuck at home watching Oprah. If you are, get a Kindle (or an iPad!), they are awesome, an endless supply of books, instantly available.
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Wow, OK, lots of cool ideas, thanks! Holy Moly Rainman, what a story, glad you came out of that OK and that is quite a good reason to be scareful with the bar-end straps!
Thanks to those that posted about the Tyre-down, I had never seen that product before and it looks like a great idea, I think I'll give that one a try, at least on the rear. The cords don't do any damage to soft race tires? Do these straps actually prevent the bike tipping side to side?
Don't think the Pit Bull restraint is an option for me yet, AFAIK they don't make one to fit my current ride, an MD250H. Same problem with clamping front stands, I have one but it is too wide for the ultra skinny front tire, the wheel just twists out of it.
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One more question, anyone used the new version of the Canyon Dancer, with the plastic endcups? Do you like them better? Do they seem secure?
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OK, I hear a lot of different things about tying down bikes. So I have some questions:
1) Is it bad for the suspension to tie a bike down tight, compressing the front forks? Is there any problem with leaving a bike tied down like that overnight?
2) If you think it is detrimental to compress the forks, what do you do instead? Do you use one of those fork brace things that goes on top of the front tire? Use a clamping front chock? Tie the back down?
3) Do you tie a knot in your tie-downs to lock them down? Have you ever had them slip and loosen over the course of a trip?
4) I usually use a Canyon Dancer but recently someone told me they "ruin your handgrips and can damage the throttle." Any truth to that? Have you experienced it (I've been using them a long time and haven't had any trouble) and if so, what do you do instead?
5) I never use ratcheting tie downs because I have heard they give so much leverage you can bend your bars, is that true?
FWIW, I currently use a Canyon Dancer, a front chock that cups the front tire but does not clamp it, I use 2 tie-downs in front and 2 in back, and I knot the front ones but not always the back. I did have a tied down slip once and that is why I use the knots. Haven't had any problems with this plan (so far), but maybe I am ruining my suspension and my handgrips.
I look forward to hearing what others do, especially tips for quick, easy, reliable techniques. -
Congrats and I bet you'll have a blast, that a great track bike choice. You mentioned that the track bike has the same tires, but are they new tires or the one that came with the bike? Might check that, it sounds obvious but if they are old or worn funny or out of balance that would probably give you a weird feel coming into turns.
Also I agree with the suggestion of checking the ride height on the bike - many owners of ZX6Rs raise the back or lower the front, it's common trackside advice, and I personally think it helps the handling a lot. If the front is lower than you are used to, it might steer quicker and feel sketchy, and if it is higher, it might feel like it is hard to turn or running wide on the exits. When I had my forks done on my ZX6R they moved the forks 2mm in the triple clamps (raising the front) and it felt totally different to me, ruined my corner entries until I figured out what the problem was and lowered it back down. It seems like a small adjustment but makes a big difference in feel.
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Hi,
I will be attending a few Superbike School days coming up at Infineon in Oct. and Nov.
I currently use the TechSpec SS tank pads and they work very well for me as long as I use my everyday riding pants (leather). I recently bought a one-piece leather racing suit for the track, but it's extremely slippery. Maybe it's the type of leather, or the location of the stretch panels, but I'm constantly sliding into my tank now and I'm having to work a lot harder. Does anyone have any suggestions? Is there some way to treat the leather to get it to grip better against the traction pads?
I've noticed the same thing. I have an Alpinestars 1 pc suit for the track, and their "bat pants" for twisty road days. Both materials are the same color and same 1.4mm spec leather, the the suit has little grip and the pants stick like rubber, but to the hand they feel similar. Whatever treatment they have on the riding pants I wish was on the suit!
There are products made for horseback riding called "Saddle Stick" or something similar. Brand new leather riding boots are slippery against an English saddle (especially when shined up for a show!), and being able to keep your leg securely anchored against the saddle is critical when jumping big jumps. Saddle Stick is a clear waxy substance that can be applied safely to leather without doing any damage, and it provides a much grippier surface than the new leather. It works great on motorcycle leathers and seats. You can't see it and in my experience it wears off eventually and by the time it does, your leathers are worn slightly and are no longer so slick. The stuff is cheap (I bought a little roll-on stick that lasted years and probably cost about $4) and you can find it online or at any large tack shop that carries English saddles.
I also second the opinions that (a) StompGrip gives a lot more secure grip than TechSpec AND can be annoying if you ride in regular clothes, and (b)if you take your time, heat the pads until they are flexible, amd make sure to smooth out air bubbles, StompGrip will go on very secure and last a really long time. Mine is at least two years old and still looks perfect.
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So you are saying that, now that you are aware of this tip, you can compete with Rossi?
The other side of this tip though, is that once you actually go for the pass, you will be at the limit again AND off the ideal line.
Not to mention the fact that it's usually the rider's survival reactions that cause errors, not actually being over the limits of the bike or tires! If you put too much attention on the other rider, while also trying a different line with a different turn point, later braking point, and possibly higher entry speed (if you try to outbrake the other rider or shoot forward to pass) things can get scary in a hurry. Probably Rossi has a good trick to keeping a cool head, maybe THAT'S his secret!
I rode in the intermediate group at track days for a long time, and I tended to have a low entry speed and relatively high exit speed. Therefore other riders would try to pass me on turn entries. Very often they would shoot past me, then either just go straight and run off without even attempting to turn (an obvious panic reaction), or turn in early and run wide, or hang on the brakes way too long, which also made them run wide AND slow down too much. All survival reactions kicking in and screwing up their judgement - I don't think they were really in much danger of overpowering their tires or their bike.
Then again, maybe they just forgot that part about "...slowing down slightly while trying to pass...".
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When I was at the school at VIR last week, a student I met there mentioned how he was really having fun at the school and felt very comfortable learning at his own pace. He talked about going to other organizations or track days and feeling rushed and intimidated right from the beginning, in the sighting lap.
I have had this experience, too - it seems like a lot of organizations run their sighting laps WAY TOO FAST. Are others out there having this problem? I have a fair amount of track experience, but on my first lap on stone cold tires on a new track (or even sometimes on a familiar one!), I often get intimidated by the pace in the sighting laps, and also end up riding faster than I want to because I don't want to get left behind. It's a tough way to start the day! Is it me, or do you find that most trackday groups run the sighting lap faster than they should?
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Hi Hotfoot,
It was great meeting you too! Sorry I caught you during your off-track break and I appreciate you taking time and chatting with me. I arrived at VIR the night before the class and the weather did not look good at all but as soon as the level I group started suiting up for the track, the rain stopped and the track started drying up. Besides the steamy weather, couldn't ask for a more perfect condition
During just one day at the school, I improved my riding and renewed my passion for riding on the track. The level structure of the school, allows slow learners like me to focus on improving certain set of skills without getting overwhelmed.
I was also lucky to have JT as my coach. The man is a natural born teacher. I can't remember the last time when I was able to finish my entire track session, due to physical exhaustion. I always came to the pit lane during the last two laps of the session. Thanks to JT, I fixed my body positioning and actually finished the rest of my sessions and still had energy left for more. I learned a lot, had a blast, and definitely look forward to my level II after perfecting the routines from level I.
I just wanted to thank everyone on this thread, Kevin, Bullet, Kai, Razor, and off course Hotfoot for encouraging me not go give up and give this course a try. I'm glad I listened to all of you. May the good karma be with you
I am so pleased to hear that you had fun and made improvements, and that you are excited about track riding again! Thanks for letting us know.
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Hi Ardi!
Thanks for coming over to say hi at the school, it was great to meet you! Sorry we didn't have a chance to chat longer, I looked for you again a little later in the day and didn't find you. It sounded like things were going well for you when I saw you, how did the rest of your day go?
I had a blast, personally, despite the rather steamy temperatures - VIR is a wonderful track!! Plus I had some terrific improvements in my riding, and that feeling of accomplishment is fantastic. We certainly lucked out on the weather, it was raining cats and dogs in the morning but amazingly cleared up completely (and DRIED!) in time for our first session on track.
I really hope it went well for you, please post and let us all know.
Hotfoot
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I'd appreciate if the instructors could give me their comments on the following.
I've been riding for about 8 years now (on and off). I've attended many track schools and in all of them I was recognized as one of the safest riders in the class. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to improve my track skills in any of those schools that much. One of the head instructors in one of those famous track schools told me: "I always have to remind students in the class to slow down and try not to get over their heads, but you are the only one that I have to tell to go faster!"
I gave up on riding on the track, accepting that I might never get very good at it, but I just found out that there is room in the two single day course at VIR in August. Do you think I should give it another shot?
I went to a CSS school, Level 1, my first time on racetrack. I started out really slow and had great improvements. I improved so much that I decided riding on the track was fun, and that I could someday get good at it. Then I went to a couple of other, different schools. Long story short, they scared me, made me think the whole sport was a lot more dangerous than I perceived it to be (I am very safe rider, too), and confused me. So I came back to CSS, and once again made startling improvements. CSS provides a safe, organized, and very well planned day in a program that works very, very well. Many other schools focus on "making you safe" whilst simultaneously scaring the pants off you by telling you all the things you COULD do wrong that MIGHT lead to disaster. CSS shows you how to do it right, get solid control of your motorycle and know exactly how to make it do what you want. Speed comes along with that, if you want it to.
Personally, I never need to be reminded to slow down and not ride over my head - I was never willing to go fast until I was sure I knew how to control the bike, CSS gave me that knowledge, now I go fast and still never ride over my head. I've never felt pushed, rushed, confused, or scared at a CSS day, and I've made BIG improvements every time.
Yes, come on out to VIR! I'll be there, August 17 & 18, come say hi - look for a lady with long brown hair who looks really happy to be there, that's me.
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Hey,
Looking for a little advice from the group. I am thinking of selling my tricked out race-prepped ZX6R, but I know it's hard to sell bikes right now. Do you think I would get more money out of it overall if I put it back to street/stock condition, and sold the fancy race bits separately, or tried to sell it as a race/track bike with all the mods? It has some fancy stuff like full LeoVince exhaust, PC, Sato rearsets etc., but I see that the WERA website is FULL of amazing race bikes (including lots of ZX6Rs)that are advertised at really low prices!
Do you think I'd be better off pulling off all the race stuff? That would be a lot of work, plus I'd have to try to sell all those pieces... but it will look brand new with the stock stuff back on, will show well in a showroom, and I have a shop near me that will put it out for sale. It has low miles and they can truthfully tell everyone it was owned by a lady who only rode it a couple of times a year.
What's the ticket, any experience with which plan works better?
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You mentioned concerns about the BMW electronics, but I thought you could turn off the traction control? Regarding the ABS, I heard through the grapevine that some of the really fast guys do remove the braking system because it gets "mushy" when ridden really, really hard, and you can't go to braided steel lines and keep the ABS because the ABS requires flex in the lines to work properly, or something like that. I do know someone who is race prepping one now and just finished changing out the whole braking system, can try to find out what he used, and what it cost, if you want. PM me on that if you're interested. I suspect that getting the BMW and modifying it any number of ways would still cost less than getting the Ducati. Also I'll mention that aforementioned racer chose the BMW, despite some loyalty to, and good success with, both Hondas and Ducatis, and the budget to get whatever he wanted.
In other words, if the electronic controls are your only negative on the BMW, maybe you can look into what it takes to shut all that off.
For what it's worth, I have ridden the BMW and I'm saving my pennies for one. I thought it was incredible, electronics and all, fantastic power and remarkably easy to ride.
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Wow, those are some amazing pictures, well done and thanks for posting them!
I especially like the corkscrew shot, you can see the drop-off on the photo way better than what you see on TV.
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I'll bet you could, but I'm too lazy. Plus, nice to have the boys around and someone to bounce different ideas off of.
I've got some ideas and man sometimes having all daughters has its disadvantages.
Now if I could just figure out how to get the dog to handle a tape measure, I'd be golden!
OK, now I can't resist giving you the female perspective on this. Here is my suggestion:
1) Have one of your daughters read the instructions for you on how to set up your suspension (or, alternatively, have her watch the Twist II DVD segment that explains it).
2) Have one of your daughters take the measurements while...
3) YOU lift the bike.
It's just a matter of allocating responsibility in the right areas. Girls should get the jobs that involve thinking, giving or reading directions, and multitasking, guys should be given the jobs that involve... lifting stuff.
(OK, I am kidding, of course - having Will do it is a great plan, he knows the tracks and the bikes and can get the sag set right AND give you a great baseline based on the track and your riding level, plus tweak it during the day if needed, he has helped me enormously with my ZX6R.)
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Barber, for me! I like the long sweeping turns and the fast smooth flow of it, and the scenery is gorgeous. When you compare it to, say... Chuckwalla... you really start to appreciate the facility, the trees, the sculptures, the museum, the paved roads...
Looking forward to trying VIR.
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I don't have a crash report
, but I thought I'd add something to the thread - I have been using Shoei helmets for a while, they fit great, but at a recent school I tried one of the school's KBC helmets, partly because I was ready to buy another helmet. I liked it, so when I got home I checked out prices... and whaddyaknow, I found a top of the line KBC race helmet (VR2R) on sale for - get ready - one-quarter of the price of the Shoei. So, I bought it, and after using it for a while I have been VERY impressed. It is just as lightweight, it's vented well, the vents are easier to operate with gloves on, and it is SO much quieter I couldn't believe it. I can ride in this helmet without earplugs; not that I really recommend that, but in my old helmet it was actually painfully loud without earplugs, so the difference is startling.The downside - the inside lining is not quite as plush, although the fit is quite good, and the designs and the finish are not quite as appealing.
But, overall I like the KBC better, and with the huge difference in price... I thought it would be worth passing this along, because I had never heard of KBC, I had no idea they made such a good and sensibly priced lid.
Traction Control
in Cornering and Techniques
Posted
I think traction control can be helpful to a low/intermediate level rider, because it would make sense to me that a more inexperienced rider is more likely to make the sort of error (and have less experience with how to handle it) that traction control can help with. For example, intermediate rider trying to "go fast" through a quick, bumpy chicane - comes in a little too fast, gets nervous, then accidentally "gooses" the throttle due to nerves or stiff body position. My Kawi 636 would jolt and possibly slide in that scenario, but the TC on the BMW seems to prevent you the bike from reacting dramatically. Or, another example, how about the new 1000cc bike owner that tries to take off in a right hand turn from a stop sign, gets on the gas a little too hard, spins the back wheel and crashes?
I had a Kawi 636 then a 2008 ZX6R, and have ridden the BMW on multiple track days, and honestly I find the BMW in Sport mode to be MUCH nicer to ride than the Kawi's were - more forgiving and less intimidating, despite the amazing horsepower. Rain mode feels very tame and in that mode I DO notice a slow-feeling throttle response when leaned over - but I would REALLY WANT THAT in the rain!!
You ask a good question about whether riders need to learn to slide, etc., but it seems a lot cheaper and easier to experiment with that on a dirt bike instead!
Overall, I think TC is GREAT for the average track day rider, if he/she willing to spend the money for it. The tough part would be if you rode with it all the time, but then had to go back and ride without it! It seems like it would be easy to get sloppy with the throttle if you got dependent on the throttle control.