fossilfuel

DISCLAIMER: The Dunlops were on a CBR1000RR and I was "carrying the mail" The Michelins were on a Ducati 999R about 6 seconds off the pace. The first time I had ridden it and I was just trying to get the feel of the thing, sightseeing Both had the same model tire warmers.

Hotfoot, Drum roll, please.......................................................................... ................. I think, if this is cold tire pressure you are giving me, that you are to hard in the front and to soft in the rear! Don't worry about the blueing thats normal. This one is Dunlop slick 31 psi hot http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/dt...51/IMG_7439.jpg three track days This one is Michelin slick 27 psi hot http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/dt...51/IMG_7441.jpg one track day I too was slipping around on the Michelin rear. A 22 psi cold tire would be about 27 to 28 psi hot. I have always seen more wear on the Michelin power race than any other tire I have used.

Hotfoot, You just need to slow down! I was thinking about this. There are many factors that come into play here from how long you have the warmers on, tire pressure, track condtition, track temperature and the way you ride. Is it both tires that are getting greasy? Where is the wear? What is the tire compound? I normally fill my tires with air at the track with in a couple of pounds over my normal cold tire pressure, I heat the tires 40 minutes before my first track session and do not take the warmers off until the third call. I immediately put the warmers back on after each session and check the tire pressure 4 to 5 times during the day. During lunch break, I turn the power off but leave the warmers on until about thirty minutes before I go out for the first session after lunch. After the day is over I unplug my warmers and leave them on the tire for as long as I can to let the tires cool at a slow rate. I was just admiring how beautiful my rear tire looks. I'll take a picture and post it in the thread later. It has three track days on it.

"Navy" = "Squid" ??? I guess not.

Am I the only one who noticed that NavyDude is a Squid! This is great!

Stevo, Hey Man! Come down pit lane and wait for the traffic to clear so you can work on the drills you want in the corner you want. I used to do this when I was in intermediate class.

JayBird, I have heard of this. I haven't been riding long so I don't know all the tricks of the trade. I think it is helpful in getting the weight back over the center of the tire. I am thinking of turn 5 at Barber or 11 at Laguna or 4 at VIR. You enter the turn with the weight of your left side on the inside foot peg and you are on the throttle a little. Once you know you are going to make the apex you look toward the exit and slowly start to pick the bike up "pick up drill". as you start to pick the bike up weighting the outside peg may help to get the weight over the center of the rear tire so you can have more throttle. And it might help to rotate the bike more to center. I didn't start going real fast until I started weighting the inside peg and somebody is going to have to show me how I'm gonna get faster weighting the outside peg. I have done countless track days, schools and raced and not once did a guy running grid WERA or AMA lap times tell me "Hey you wanna go fast? Weight the outside peg!"

Hey Bullet! Did you invite Crocodile Dundee to the table?

I'm having the first of a few right now. Cheers Mate!

Wow! You don't even tell your old buddy Fossil that your talking about beer. I could handle a Stella, Becks, Hoegaarden, or my favorite of all time Wasatch Polygamy Porter - "why have just one"

You can answer your own question. You need to have a plan or some way to approach obstacles to your riding. Ride what ever gets you there.

Chocadile, You owe Bullet a beer as well, maybe he can show me how to properly drink a Guinness?

I set my pegs so that everytime I shift, my foot is anchored by the heel so it is easy for me to pivot up and down on the peg. It is the same when I use the rear brake. When I am not shifting or braking, I rest the balls of my feet on the pegs so that the pegs are weighted at all times and I can easily shift weight from one side to the other. Lets say I am making a right hand turn. My foot is pointing in toward the turn, my heel is pointing in towards the rear tire and my knee and foot are aligned. I do this so I have my body positioned for the turn and the weight of my body going directly down and weighting the inside peg. I am positioned in such a way that I actually have very little or no weight on the seat in the corner or on corner exit. The inside foot should be the base for the leg and upper body to rest on. You can't have good body position in a turn if your inside foot isn't positioned correctly. Other people on this forum might have a better way but this works for me and I'm going pretty quick using this method. This is the way I do it and do not represent anyone or any instituion that teaches anything about anything, even Road Race World. Do not practice this at home (wait, you could practice this at home if you have good stands) but I didn't tell you to do it.

Ok, I forgive you. The leather and high heel boots sounds nice! I will see what I can do. I will need a picture and measurments of the current set up. Bolt size, distance between center to center and any clearance issues you might have moving the bracket forward. Such as, would we need clearance to miss something like the frame to have the bracket facing forward, what does this do to your shift lever linkage, and how many holes you would need for adjustment etc, etc. Think it through and let me know if you want to do this....and I'll think of some way you can pay me back?

That's a great idea. Can you make me one? I need it by next Saturday... If I didn't know you, I would say you could be suggestively sarcastic. But since I do know you, I would say you most definitely are. And I was just trying to be helpful....

Since you're going to be putting something in front of you to help with body position, are there some reference points on the bike you can use to help you get the correct position with your upper body? Maybe align a part of your body with a part of the bike? One comment about how I ride on the street and how it's different on the track. My BP on the street is geared toward giving me a good view of traffic, so it's necessarily more upright. Choco, you do this in the vid, where your head is leaning away from the turn (this also keeps the horizon level). This is a good technique for the street, keeping your head higher to see more and avoid all the cars trying to hit you. On the track you don't need to do this. So how would you change your head position? Enjoy Level 3, since it will focus on getting your body to work with the bike. Try putting your head on either side of the wind shield at a point where you head is not much higher than the top of the wind shield. You will help weight the front and get off the center line.

Why not get an adapter bracket made to mount the Gilles to? Isn't that a great idea?

Just give me a Senior Superbike class 50 and older and I will kick some Ass!

Two things this weekend for me: I was trying to beat my personal best lap time. we all try to do that don't we? Well, something to consider is what changes when we increase speed? At my old personal best lap time my turning point at turn 1 was here. If I have increased my lap time by over a second, do you think that turn point changes? Hell Yeah it does! You might want to plan this out a little better than I did as it can become quite tedious. Not that I did something crazy but that I unexpectedly did a better time so my old turn point was putting me in the corner a little late. I was trying out a new bike that has Brembo radial piston calipers and Brembo master cylinder. My old bike has standard stock calipers but I do have a Brembo master cylinder. I normally go into my favorite hair pin off camber turn with two finger braking on the old bike. I took the new bike out for a spin with a buddy telling me "those brakes are good so don't let off the gas until brake marker 4 and don't tuch the brakes until brake marker 2." Lifting the rear wheel in the air for about 20 yards can be very distracting as you enter a turn. What lessons did I learn..besides keep a fresh pair of undies handy? Anticipate changes that might occur as you change goals and equipment. Plan ahead! Little things me a lot when you go faster.

Fossil; I take some pride in keeping my posts as accurate as possible so I decided to attach the May AMA Superbike results from Barber and was disappointed to see that the AMA web site didn't have the Supersport "Qualifying" times but it did have the race results; you my friend were faster then the field on your hot lap. Take a look... http://www.amaproracing.com/rr/events/resu...pe=F&rnum=1 Kevin Kevin, Kevin, Kevin please stop.....as much as I want to believe I am in that company, I am sure that was a wet track. You really made my day though!

I need to mention that this lap time would not have been possible for me without professional instruction. Thanks CSS for all your help.

Thanks Kevin. I appreciate that but I believe I would have to trim another 8 seconds to run with those guys. I'll see if I can trim a little more fat.

Ok, set out yesterday to beat my personal best lap time 0f 1:40.22. I went out first session with the lap timer off and worked on my body position and checked to see what the bike felt like. I was first at the starting line for the second session so I had a clear track and ran a 1:38.85. Man that felt great! I now have to decide what my next goal is.

What's Up Jaybird? I agree with you about the technique. I don't see anything wrong with it either and if I were to explain my technique, it would be much similar. The postion I saw in the video is what I thought was off. Chocadile's body position looks like a "bow". He is getting his butt off before the turn but keeping his head over the center of the bike.

Good Idea Hub!