Jaybird180

This is a great topic to discuss, QZRLSD. I was thinking about something similar over the weekend. However, I was thinking about how to approach the limits of traction in a safe way on the FRONT tire. When 'pushing the front' how do you read that? I've done it once and it was by accident, and not knowing what it was I didn't want to do it again. And so I backed off pushing through what was probably a barrier in my riding.

What do you g\Guys/ Gals do about sleeping arrangements? I'm giving some thought to a trailer setup and this is a question of mine.

You'll get worked over at Streets (evil grin). Use me, don't abuse me (bet you thought I forgot )

I can't believe I am just finding this thread. Good Stuff.

Does the school run this course in the same direction each time or is it one of those flip-floppers?

With conventional bikes, you don't want to change gears midcorner. A quickshifter will allow you to do that. With that said, let's assume that you don't have one. You want to time the shifts when the bike is straight up/down. Perhaps having more gears wouldn't be helpful because it would force you outside the best operating range when in the corners. Just a thought and 2 shillings.

R1 v. R6 :: 454lbs. v. 414 lbs. Zx10R v. Zx6R :: 458.6 lbs. v. 421 lbs. GSXR1000 v. GSXR600 :: 448 lbs. v. 432 lbs. I am not aware of any liter bikes that are lighter than any middleweights, at least within the same model year. Kevin Interesting. I recall doing a comparo and the #'s were within 3-5lbs and in a few cases (Honda 2008 ?) the weights were swapped. I concede; manufacturers have been playing games with weights for years.

One thing that comes to mind, though loosely related to your post is that it is commonly thought that one must rev an engine to the rev limiter to get max performance out of the engine and this is not so. Sportrider magazine did an article a few years back about shift points and found that sometimes the ideal shift points are not in the red zone. When you change your gear ratios you are changing this as well. Perhaps these top guys have considered the loss of flow based on the change that is introduced from the gearing change. Take a look at this article Keith wrote about the character of Willow http://forums.superbikeschool.com/index.php?showtopic=110

YNOT; IMHO, depending on your familiarity with your Suzuki, a 600 is a bit more forgiving on the track because the rear wheel won't spin up as easily as it will on your liter bike. The 600's do not have the same top speed as your bike although they are very very quick now. The 600's have less weight but if you are comfortable on your bike, you will do fine on it...possibly better because of your not needing to acclimate to someone else's bike. Kevin Some of the new liter bikes weight less than the middleweights. I suppose that's why Suzuki and (I think Yamaha) is investing in Power Mode technology. For example ,if you look at the new ZX10 and ZX6 side by side (sans stickers) you'd be hard pressed to choose which is the "small" bike.

Level 3, you could have a look at Twist 1, and the chapter on hanging off (though we'll be covering material on that, that's not in the books). Twist 2, the chapters on rider input, that will come into play too. Level 4 will be based on the questionnaire you fill out that day, and what you and your coach sort out, so no specific reference to suggest yet. See you soon! C Don't forget Keith's new article: http://forums.superbikeschool.com/index.php?showtopic=1362

See Throttle Control Rule #1

Wouldn't the slight application of rear brake be good? I've sat at some corners watching riders, and have seen some people get SQUIRRELLY coming in. Doesn't the rear brake being applied keep that from happening? Depends on WHEN it is applied and how much. IIRC, the Honda C-ABS applies rear brake a few microseconds before front in a hard braking situation, which is smart...compressing the rear, thus allowing the front more room for geometry changes with the idea of lowering CoG and reducing nose dive. Downside is the you lose turn-in speed. Squirrely comes from the rear being light. It can also come from tire profile or rear suspension setting. And don't forget rider extra input causing it too.

It will be interesting to see how well he does. Many people didn't like the Honda Electronic Steering Damper, but that's been proven too.

While I wouldn't advocate it just for the purpose of finding the best line like in this case, I would be wary when people advise hard rules like that. Sometimes it can be a last ditch maneuver where it's necessary. If your brain sees the yellow line like a solid wall, then that piece of asphalt is ALWAYS unavailable to you.

My mom would say that he's playing possum. (I hope so)

Hmmmmmmm.......did I hear him wait to get on the gas at exit? He said that it doesn't turn as well because of the extra stability. I wonder if rear brake is the culprit as he reported, or that he's trailbraking and not realizing the added effect of rear along with trailing front brake to the corner exit.

What's the name of the magazine? Perhaps we get it here in the US.

At first read, you had me going there Ace. It turned out to be an interesting topic, and I'm putting my money on that this will be debated on the forum for awhile. So the question as I understand it is, would you like to go harder or stop harder, is that about right? I'm putting mine on braking. I think that riders are more concerned with overbraking than too much gas on corner exit. This could be a life-saver for N00bs. How many have crashed with too much brake? Where did you get that info about the WSBK comparisons and the video of the 1000RR stopping in the wet? Please share your sources.

And you touched on my follow-on question: What signs do you look for to tell you that the tires are ready? I have my own but I wanted to know if I'm on the right track (pun intended) from a pro.

I second all of Stuman's questions, the exact ones I would have asked (and like to know). CF I had the same thoughts. PLUS, if this is street, what side of the road do you ride on in your town?

Yummmy....We love questions around here.

I agree an "equipment" section would fill a gap. People new to the sport have a lot of questions about gear, so it helps to have a place to ask things. New riders sometimes shy away from getting good gear because it is expensive, but spare parts for people are extremely expensive and often not even available! hmmmmmm........not sure on the replacement parts. Last year, my club did a charity ride for the DC Burn Foundation. They provide skin when needed. So we can help out with that one. If anyone wants to do a Spine Foundation, then we can get rid of gear altogether.

I knew it's wishing and hoping to get a recommendation about tires, but if you don't ask you'll never get.

What are the weather conditions that we as sport riders should consider as minimum weather to ride? On the street? On the track? I'm usually interested in riding in anything above 49F degrees. I'm obviously more tentative when riding in these conditions and am re-evaluating that protocol. Do tire manufacturers publish data for determining 'safe' weather conditions?

I'm having the issue now on 2 of my machines. When I click the link I get a video of Peter When I add &mode=linear I don't get anything new